I have a wood burning problem with my table saw. It's a General
International 50-185 and I am using a Forrest 40 teeth WWII blade (yep, I
read this group quite a bit).
1-The blade is aligned with the miter slot
2-The fence is aligned with the blade
3-The table top is flat (not perfect but close)
If I rip a piece of 3/4" pine (previously squared on the jointer) with the
blade at the highest position, I get a fairly smooth cut. However, if I set
the blade to a safer, lower height (about 1"), I get some burning. I know
there is more friction when the blade is lower (more teeth), but this is
pine, not cherry and the blade is not what I would call cheap.
Is this normal ? am I missing something in the table adjustment ? could it
be arbor/blade runnout ?
If I feed the wood faster, I get less burning. Still, I expected no burning
at all with 3/4" pine. I'm really puzzled at what could be wrong.
"KYHighlander" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> are you pushing it thru at a consistent rate? I get some burning if I
pause
> for a second to change my hold on the board and let the board sit against
> the blade for a second. This happens with long boards where I have to move
> the spot I hold the board to feed the whole thing thru. Normally just on
oak
> though, don't use much pine.
>
Le Steak wrote:
<snip>
> If I rip a piece of 3/4" pine (previously squared on the jointer) with the
> blade at the highest position, I get a fairly smooth cut. However, if I set
> the blade to a safer, lower height (about 1"), I get some burning. I know
> there is more friction when the blade is lower (more teeth), but this is
> pine, not cherry and the blade is not what I would call cheap.
If I remember correctly a while back someone else complained about the same
problem. I think it was discovered that the blade alignment changed as the
blade was raised and lowered. You might want to check the "Google" archives to
try and locate the thread.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
Is the blade dirty? I know that will cause burn. Oven cleaner will clean
the blade up nice.
"Le Steak" <beaurm@v_i_d_e_o_t_r_o_n.ca> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a wood burning problem with my table saw. It's a General
> International 50-185 and I am using a Forrest 40 teeth WWII blade (yep, I
> read this group quite a bit).
>
> 1-The blade is aligned with the miter slot
> 2-The fence is aligned with the blade
> 3-The table top is flat (not perfect but close)
>
> If I rip a piece of 3/4" pine (previously squared on the jointer) with the
> blade at the highest position, I get a fairly smooth cut. However, if I
set
> the blade to a safer, lower height (about 1"), I get some burning. I know
> there is more friction when the blade is lower (more teeth), but this is
> pine, not cherry and the blade is not what I would call cheap.
>
> Is this normal ? am I missing something in the table adjustment ? could it
> be arbor/blade runnout ?
>
>
>
On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 22:58:14 -0500, "Le Steak"
<beaurm@v_i_d_e_o_t_r_o_n.ca> wrote:
>I have a wood burning problem with my table saw. It's a General
>International 50-185 and I am using a Forrest 40 teeth WWII blade (yep, I
>read this group quite a bit).
<snip>
I had the same problem, but not just with pine. I also read the the
group a lot. I replaced the WW2 with a freud glue line rip blade and
all of my burning issues went away. Much nicer cut too. I just use the
Forrest blade for plywood now. Still burns, but gives a nice cut on
plywood
YMMV
Zeke
How hard do you have to "push" the stock? If not like a hot knife through
butter, I'd suspect the blade. I'll add that the best blade I've ever used
(and probably abused) is the Oldham that costs you less than $20 at the HD.
"Zeke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 22:58:14 -0500, "Le Steak"
> <beaurm@v_i_d_e_o_t_r_o_n.ca> wrote:
>
> >I have a wood burning problem with my table saw. It's a General
> >International 50-185 and I am using a Forrest 40 teeth WWII blade (yep, I
> >read this group quite a bit).
> <snip>
>
> I had the same problem, but not just with pine. I also read the the
> group a lot. I replaced the WW2 with a freud glue line rip blade and
> all of my burning issues went away. Much nicer cut too. I just use the
> Forrest blade for plywood now. Still burns, but gives a nice cut on
> plywood
> YMMV
> Zeke
>
Le Steak wrote:
> I have a wood burning problem with my table saw. It's a General
> International 50-185 and I am using a Forrest 40 teeth WWII blade (yep, I
> read this group quite a bit).
>
> 1-The blade is aligned with the miter slot
> 2-The fence is aligned with the blade
> 3-The table top is flat (not perfect but close)
I've had the same problem after cutting a bunch of sappy pine - the
blade teeth had a buildup of pitch and sawdust. Buring stopped after
I cleaned the blade.
C
--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************
Some pine has a nasty habit of springing after its cut. A properly aligned
splitter can do wonders to tame this problem. Are you using a splitter? Do
you get burning on hardwood. How long is the piece of pine that you are
ripping? Are you using anything other than your hand and a push stick to
guide the wood? Do you have an outfeed table?
I've burned plenty of wood in my short experience. The causes included poor
operator technique, lack of outfeed support, improperly aligned splitter,
and lack of auxilary support such as a featherboard. I don't seem to get
burning at all these days. I attribute this to great improvements in
operator technique and using Grip-tites most of the time.
Bob
"Le Steak" <beaurm@v_i_d_e_o_t_r_o_n.ca> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a wood burning problem with my table saw. It's a General
> International 50-185 and I am using a Forrest 40 teeth WWII blade (yep, I
> read this group quite a bit).
>
> 1-The blade is aligned with the miter slot
> 2-The fence is aligned with the blade
> 3-The table top is flat (not perfect but close)
>
> If I rip a piece of 3/4" pine (previously squared on the jointer) with the
> blade at the highest position, I get a fairly smooth cut. However, if I
set
> the blade to a safer, lower height (about 1"), I get some burning. I know
> there is more friction when the blade is lower (more teeth), but this is
> pine, not cherry and the blade is not what I would call cheap.
>
> Is this normal ? am I missing something in the table adjustment ? could it
> be arbor/blade runnout ?
>
>
>
I guess that's the official name. Yes. Crappy pine would better be described
as syrrupy. When I talked to Torben Helshoj (president of Laguna tools) at
the Houston show, he demoed the usual hardwoods for cutting, but he also had
some pine. He said pine was actually a more difficult cut because of the
pitch.
Bob
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> isn't there a lot of pitch in pine?
>
> dave
>
> Le Steak wrote:
>
> > If I feed the wood faster, I get less burning. Still, I expected no
burning
> > at all with 3/4" pine. I'm really puzzled at what could be wrong.
> >
> >
> > "KYHighlander" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> >>are you pushing it thru at a consistent rate? I get some burning if I
> >
> > pause
> >
> >>for a second to change my hold on the board and let the board sit
against
> >>the blade for a second. This happens with long boards where I have to
move
> >>the spot I hold the board to feed the whole thing thru. Normally just on
> >
> > oak
> >
> >>though, don't use much pine.
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
if it's aligned and the blade is sharp I'd suspect feed rate. That's
what bites me in the butt when I'm cutting and burning.
dave
Le Steak wrote:
> I have a wood burning problem with my table saw. It's a General
> International 50-185 and I am using a Forrest 40 teeth WWII blade (yep, I
> read this group quite a bit).
>
> 1-The blade is aligned with the miter slot
> 2-The fence is aligned with the blade
> 3-The table top is flat (not perfect but close)
>
> If I rip a piece of 3/4" pine (previously squared on the jointer) with the
> blade at the highest position, I get a fairly smooth cut. However, if I set
> the blade to a safer, lower height (about 1"), I get some burning. I know
> there is more friction when the blade is lower (more teeth), but this is
> pine, not cherry and the blade is not what I would call cheap.
>
> Is this normal ? am I missing something in the table adjustment ? could it
> be arbor/blade runnout ?
>
>
>
are you pushing it thru at a consistent rate? I get some burning if I pause
for a second to change my hold on the board and let the board sit against
the blade for a second. This happens with long boards where I have to move
the spot I hold the board to feed the whole thing thru. Normally just on oak
though, don't use much pine.
--
http://users.adelphia.net/~kyhighland
"Le Steak" <beaurm@v_i_d_e_o_t_r_o_n.ca> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a wood burning problem with my table saw. It's a General
> International 50-185 and I am using a Forrest 40 teeth WWII blade (yep, I
> read this group quite a bit).
>
> 1-The blade is aligned with the miter slot
> 2-The fence is aligned with the blade
> 3-The table top is flat (not perfect but close)
>
> If I rip a piece of 3/4" pine (previously squared on the jointer) with the
> blade at the highest position, I get a fairly smooth cut. However, if I
set
> the blade to a safer, lower height (about 1"), I get some burning. I know
> there is more friction when the blade is lower (more teeth), but this is
> pine, not cherry and the blade is not what I would call cheap.
>
> Is this normal ? am I missing something in the table adjustment ? could it
> be arbor/blade runnout ?
>
>
>
isn't there a lot of pitch in pine?
dave
Le Steak wrote:
> If I feed the wood faster, I get less burning. Still, I expected no burning
> at all with 3/4" pine. I'm really puzzled at what could be wrong.
>
>
> "KYHighlander" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>are you pushing it thru at a consistent rate? I get some burning if I
>
> pause
>
>>for a second to change my hold on the board and let the board sit against
>>the blade for a second. This happens with long boards where I have to move
>>the spot I hold the board to feed the whole thing thru. Normally just on
>
> oak
>
>>though, don't use much pine.
>>
>
>
>
BTW, I'm wondering if using a WWII for ripping is part of the problem
because I too use a 40 tooth Forrest. Maybe a 30 tooth would reduce the
burning? Just asking everyone; I don't know.
dave
Le Steak wrote:
> I have a wood burning problem with my table saw. It's a General
> International 50-185 and I am using a Forrest 40 teeth WWII blade (yep, I
> read this group quite a bit).
>
> 1-The blade is aligned with the miter slot
> 2-The fence is aligned with the blade
> 3-The table top is flat (not perfect but close)
>
> If I rip a piece of 3/4" pine (previously squared on the jointer) with the
> blade at the highest position, I get a fairly smooth cut. However, if I set
> the blade to a safer, lower height (about 1"), I get some burning. I know
> there is more friction when the blade is lower (more teeth), but this is
> pine, not cherry and the blade is not what I would call cheap.
>
> Is this normal ? am I missing something in the table adjustment ? could it
> be arbor/blade runnout ?
>
>
>
It's not normal but there are a number of reasons why it will happen.
You missed something in set up. You are using a splitter and have not set
that correctly, you are not feeding the stock properly, your blade has pitch
build up, blade put in backwards (don't laugh, it happens). . .
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Le Steak" <beaurm@v_i_d_e_o_t_r_o_n.ca> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a wood burning problem with my table saw. It's a General
> International 50-185 and I am using a Forrest 40 teeth WWII blade (yep, I
> read this group quite a bit).
>
> 1-The blade is aligned with the miter slot
> 2-The fence is aligned with the blade
> 3-The table top is flat (not perfect but close)
>
> If I rip a piece of 3/4" pine (previously squared on the jointer) with the
> blade at the highest position, I get a fairly smooth cut. However, if I
set
> the blade to a safer, lower height (about 1"), I get some burning. I know
> there is more friction when the blade is lower (more teeth), but this is
> pine, not cherry and the blade is not what I would call cheap.
>
> Is this normal ? am I missing something in the table adjustment ? could it
> be arbor/blade runnout ?
>
>
>
So does Simple Green and it's a lot less toxic and won't peel the teflon
coating off (if your blade has it).
Mike
"Wilson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Is the blade dirty? I know that will cause burn. Oven cleaner will clean
> the blade up nice.
>
Le Steak wrote:
> If I feed the wood faster, I get less burning. Still, I
> expected no burning at all with 3/4" pine. I'm really puzzled
> at what could be wrong.
>
> "KYHighlander" <[email protected]> wrote in
> message news:[email protected]...
>
>> are you pushing it thru at a consistent rate? I get some
>> burning if I pause for a second to change my hold on the
>> board and let the board sit against the blade for a second.
>> This happens with long boards where I have to move the spot
>> I hold the board to feed the whole thing thru. Normally just
>> on oak though, don't use much pine.
It's the same as with a router: the feed rate is important. The
wood and blade need to part company as rapidly as quality and
safety permit. If you feed too slowly, the wood will be heated to
the point of burning - and it is possible to warp a saw blade by
feeding stock too slowly - DAMHIKT.
--
Morris Dovey
West Des Moines, Iowa USA
C links at http://www.iedu.com/c
Read my lips: The apple doesn't fall far from the tree.
I also believe that the problem is with alignment. The problem is that
the Arbor Bracket is not machined correctly. The spindle bearings and
the Arbor Bracket Shaft bore are not parallel. You can check this by
indicating the blade in the full up and full down positions. If they
are not the same, there is nothing you can do about this until you
re-machine the arbor bracket using an oversize shaft. The Front
Trunion also has to be re-machined to accept the oversize shaft. What
I did was to adjust the trunions so that the blade is aligned with the
miter slot at 1" depth of cut. As long as I cut 3/4" stock there is no
problem.
On Thu, 19 Feb 2004 14:41:44 -0500, Nova <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Le Steak wrote:
>
><snip>
>
>> If I rip a piece of 3/4" pine (previously squared on the jointer) with the
>> blade at the highest position, I get a fairly smooth cut. However, if I set
>> the blade to a safer, lower height (about 1"), I get some burning. I know
>> there is more friction when the blade is lower (more teeth), but this is
>> pine, not cherry and the blade is not what I would call cheap.
>
>If I remember correctly a while back someone else complained about the same
>problem. I think it was discovered that the blade alignment changed as the
>blade was raised and lowered. You might want to check the "Google" archives to
>try and locate the thread.