It's not a workshop yet, just a garage ... when it's a workshop it'll
have underfloor heating, we just aren't likely to get there for another
year or so.
So I'm looking for a temporary solution to keep me from freezing out
there in the meantime while we're working on the house (it's 6 deg F
outside today). I've read the various posts re: propane vs. kerosene
vs. electric, and while lots of folks asked about dust, I didn't see
anything about more volatile substances. One of things I need to do is
paint, with oil-based paints (and the requisite cleanup, of course,
which is probably the dangerous part). Are any of these heaters safe to
use in a painting environment?
Extra moisture's my other concern as I do have my tools out there.
There is a dehumidifier out there which pretty much sits idle this time
of year, but as the tools have only moved from the utility room (heated)
to the garage recently it's too early to say if rust might be a problem
- however, I think not as none of the cast iron & steel stuff that has
been in the garage these last two years is exhibiting rust.
I don't have gas at the house, and I can't stand kerosene (I'm one of
those folks who can really smell it), so I'd likely be looking at either
propane off a BBQ tank or electric. The garage is 500 sq ft. of poorly
insulated space, and I'd rather not punch a hole through it for
ventilation since this is only supposed to be temporary (yes, I know,
remember to ask me how temporary it really was in 10 years ...)
Thanks!
-- Chris
________*________ Chris Barnabo, [email protected]
____________ \_______________/ http://www.spagnet.com
\__________/ / /
__\ \_______/ /__ "The heck with the Prime Directive,
\_______________/(- let's destroy something!"
Try these,
Ray-Tec (could not find a web address)
http://www.qualitec.ca/qdihome.htm
http://www.rezspec.com/index.php?pageid=000000000007&mod_catalog[category]=000000000015&SelectBrand=Reznor&mod_catalog[mode]=modlist
I will look for more information. The guy I know only paid about $400 for
his but it was used. I have'nt found out how much new. The 20 footer is
around $1500Cdn installed. But that is the only quote I got. The 10 foot
tube heater would be far less I'm sure.
John V
"Chris Barnabo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <kLHLb.38818$ts4.13534@pd7tw3no>,
> [email protected] says...
> > A question. If you already have the garage, how are you planning to run
the
> > pex?
>
> Oddly, the garage slab is several inches lower than the rest of the
> house, so I figured we'd easily be able to run the PEX and pour over it,
> bringing the finished concrete flush with the rest of the house. But
> ...
>
> > They were finding that a lot of heat being produced was
> > absobed readily into the ground and not into the garage space because
the
> > garage is at ground level and not below the frost line.
>
> ... I'm sure there's no insulation, and given the speed at which radiant
> heats (slow!) and the fact that the garage isn't always going to be in
> use, I'm really starting to think it's not such a good idea.
>
> > I, myself, am looking at a gas fired, radiant heat tube (Infra-red)
when I
> > build my garage/shop.
>
> I've seen those, and something that can fire fast and heat quickly is
> sounding like a better idea. As another poster said, I can always shut
> the thing down when working with volatile materials. The biggest
> problem is fueling the thing ... I don't have gas in the house, so I'd
> need an external tank (or something that could fire off our heating
> oil). One other poster suggested a 240V electric model, which could
> definitely be accomodated when I get around to rewiring (need to bump up
> the electrical service and add a new panel anyway if I want a decent
> table saw ... :-)
>
> Thanks, everyone, for all the suggestions!
>
> --
> -- Chris
> ________*________ Chris Barnabo, [email protected]
> ____________ \_______________/ http://www.spagnet.com
> \__________/ / /
> __\ \_______/ /__ "The heck with the Prime Directive,
> \_______________/(- let's destroy something!"
Gots to put my oar in here . . . especially after Joanne was just
elected 'Fleet Surgeon' at the Club.
Depending on the design & BTU's {vertical 'tube' about 22,000 BTU} they
were going for about $125.oo several years ago . . . remember that
'energy crisis' thing ?
Anyhow, at that time we had an older {less efficient} natural gas /
forced air heater. We had the heat at about 65 and were huddled under
blankets every evening to watch TV. Forget reading . . hands were to
cold to hold a book. The heater was still cycling all the time and the
got really ridiculous. Some people were attempting to heat their homes
with open ovens, and kerosene heaters . . . and EVERY evening the local
{Philly}news carried some horror story about fires. Of course, the
follow-up usually indicated some 'terminally stupid' actions {using
gasoline instead of Kero, taking the 'chimney' off and using the open
flame, filling a lighted heater, etc.}were the cause.
I 'did my home work' and we got a small one. Took the chill off, nicely.
The next year we got a larger, 22,000 BTU unit {later were given another
large unit}. With a small 'whisper fan' it heated the entire house . . .
and you couldn't tell it was going !! Very simple steps . . called
'follow the instructions, stupid !!' . . . start it outside, turn it off
outside {this is when you have the 'smell'}. Keep the wick clean by
'burning it off' regularly . . . very infrequently if you use quality
Kero. At about $1.oo per gallon, a 5 gallon can lasted a week plus.
The bottom line is I have some experience. When we got an up to date gas
heater / central air unit, the Kero heaters were available for 'shop
use'. Up to then I had been using the 'little one' as a hand warmer &
chill chaser. With the bigger units all I had to do was start it
outside, put it near the 'front', about 3 feet from the garage door,
raise the door about 6 inches to a foot, and in about 30 minutes the
place was 'sweat shirt comfortable'. The metal top was a once place to
warm some old 25-pound 'weight plates' which made nice 'hold downs' for
epoxy work. Having two, I could use them 'on & off' - if one started to
burn low in the middle of a job, I would simply move it outside to 'burn
off' and light up the second. I stopped using them because of a simple
chemical fact . . . one of the by-products of burning kerosene {and
other hydro-carbons} is . . . WATER. Just take a look at your car's
tailpipe when it is warming up. Until the Catalytic Converter gets hot,
that stuff dripping out is water. The kero heater puts that moisture
into the shop environment. Increasing the possibility of rust on ferrous
metal surfaces, and in my case . . . curing epoxy surfaces & joints.
I set up a small wood stove I had for a lot of years. Not as effective
as the Kero, but a lot more 'cozy'. I just don't do 'large jobs' during
the colder months . . . the cutting & milling is done there, but the
assembly is done where it's warmer.
If you can get good FRESH AIR circulation & venting . . . there is no
problem with using kerosene heating. Just keep an eye on your tools &
joints . . . having a couple of hygrometers handy {one in the shop, one
outside} would let you keep an eye on the difference in humidity.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
----- Original Message -----
From: "C" <[email protected]>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 06:46
Subject: Re: ANOTHER Shop Heat Question
> On Fri, 09 Jan 2004 00:40:42 +0000, Nick Bozovich wrote:
>
> > Sorry to dump another one on the group, but it's colder than (take
your
> > pick) here in PA, but I want to do some WW!!
> >
> > I was in the Borg today, and saw a keroscene heater - $114.
SNIP
In article <kLHLb.38818$ts4.13534@pd7tw3no>,
[email protected] says...
> A question. If you already have the garage, how are you planning to run the
> pex?
Oddly, the garage slab is several inches lower than the rest of the
house, so I figured we'd easily be able to run the PEX and pour over it,
bringing the finished concrete flush with the rest of the house. But
...
> They were finding that a lot of heat being produced was
> absobed readily into the ground and not into the garage space because the
> garage is at ground level and not below the frost line.
... I'm sure there's no insulation, and given the speed at which radiant
heats (slow!) and the fact that the garage isn't always going to be in
use, I'm really starting to think it's not such a good idea.
> I, myself, am looking at a gas fired, radiant heat tube (Infra-red) when I
> build my garage/shop.
I've seen those, and something that can fire fast and heat quickly is
sounding like a better idea. As another poster said, I can always shut
the thing down when working with volatile materials. The biggest
problem is fueling the thing ... I don't have gas in the house, so I'd
need an external tank (or something that could fire off our heating
oil). One other poster suggested a 240V electric model, which could
definitely be accomodated when I get around to rewiring (need to bump up
the electrical service and add a new panel anyway if I want a decent
table saw ... :-)
Thanks, everyone, for all the suggestions!
--
-- Chris
________*________ Chris Barnabo, [email protected]
____________ \_______________/ http://www.spagnet.com
\__________/ / /
__\ \_______/ /__ "The heck with the Prime Directive,
\_______________/(- let's destroy something!"
If you don't mind me jumping in here, what is this heater? Brand name, or
"type" name/style? When you say "gas fired", are you talking about propane,
or natural gas? (or both?) Are we talking $200 or $2,000?
I'm presuming that I won't find it at Home Depot or Lowes - maybe more like
a HVAC supplier?
Thanks for your patience -
Nick
"JohnV" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:kLHLb.38818$ts4.13534@pd7tw3no...
> A question. If you already have the garage, how are you planning to run
the
> pex? Are you hammering out the existing concrete or are you running it on
> the concrete and planning to put in a wooden floor over top? An
aquantance
> of mine has done a few installations of in floor heating and tells me that
> when they install now, they insulate the floor before the lay the sand
base
> and pour etc. They were finding that a lot of heat being produced was
> absobed readily into the ground and not into the garage space because the
> garage is at ground level and not below the frost line. Overall, a very
> expensive option regardless of how you do it.
>
> I, myself, am looking at a gas fired, radiant heat tube (Infra-red) when
I
> build my garage/shop. Same type that you see in you local Lumber supply
> warehouse, but smaller. Efficiency is higher than a furnace, safer and
the
> infrared heat heats the objects in the space instead of the air. Costs
> about the same as a small furnace with better results. I know another
> individual who has one in his 24 x 26 shop and it takes all of about 10-15
> minutes to heat the whole shop comfortably in really cold weather. His is
a
> 10 foot tube if I remember correctly and is set at a 45 degree angle to
the
> floor at the front of his shop. Only caveat for you is that it requires a
> single side vent but I think it is a great option since I have seen it
first
> hand. You have too if you've gone to some local supply warehouses.
>
> John V
>
>
> "Chris Barnabo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > It's not a workshop yet, just a garage ... when it's a workshop it'll
> > have underfloor heating, we just aren't likely to get there for another
> > year or so.
> >
> > So I'm looking for a temporary solution to keep me from freezing out
> > there in the meantime while we're working on the house (it's 6 deg F
> > outside today). I've read the various posts re: propane vs. kerosene
> > vs. electric, and while lots of folks asked about dust, I didn't see
> > anything about more volatile substances. One of things I need to do is
> > paint, with oil-based paints (and the requisite cleanup, of course,
> > which is probably the dangerous part). Are any of these heaters safe to
> > use in a painting environment?
> >
> > Extra moisture's my other concern as I do have my tools out there.
> > There is a dehumidifier out there which pretty much sits idle this time
> > of year, but as the tools have only moved from the utility room (heated)
> > to the garage recently it's too early to say if rust might be a problem
> > - however, I think not as none of the cast iron & steel stuff that has
> > been in the garage these last two years is exhibiting rust.
> >
> > I don't have gas at the house, and I can't stand kerosene (I'm one of
> > those folks who can really smell it), so I'd likely be looking at either
> > propane off a BBQ tank or electric. The garage is 500 sq ft. of poorly
> > insulated space, and I'd rather not punch a hole through it for
> > ventilation since this is only supposed to be temporary (yes, I know,
> > remember to ask me how temporary it really was in 10 years ...)
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> >
> > -- Chris
> > ________*________ Chris Barnabo, [email protected]
> > ____________ \_______________/ http://www.spagnet.com
> > \__________/ / /
> > __\ \_______/ /__ "The heck with the Prime Directive,
> > \_______________/(- let's destroy something!"
>
>
"Chris Barnabo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It's not a workshop yet, just a garage ... when it's a workshop it'll
> have underfloor heating, we just aren't likely to get there for another
> year or so.
>
> So I'm looking for a temporary solution to keep me from freezing out
> there in the meantime while we're working on the house (it's 6 deg F
> outside today). I've read the various posts re: propane vs. kerosene
> vs. electric, and while lots of folks asked about dust, I didn't see
> anything about more volatile substances. One of things I need to do is
> paint, with oil-based paints (and the requisite cleanup, of course,
> which is probably the dangerous part). Are any of these heaters safe to
> use in a painting environment?
>
> Extra moisture's my other concern as I do have my tools out there.
> There is a dehumidifier out there which pretty much sits idle this time
> of year, but as the tools have only moved from the utility room (heated)
> to the garage recently it's too early to say if rust might be a problem
> - however, I think not as none of the cast iron & steel stuff that has
> been in the garage these last two years is exhibiting rust.
>
> I don't have gas at the house, and I can't stand kerosene (I'm one of
> those folks who can really smell it), so I'd likely be looking at either
> propane off a BBQ tank or electric. The garage is 500 sq ft. of poorly
> insulated space, and I'd rather not punch a hole through it for
> ventilation since this is only supposed to be temporary (yes, I know,
> remember to ask me how temporary it really was in 10 years ...)
>
I went through this whole decision-making process for my garage/shop a few
months ago. The cheapest option I found was to get a 220V, 30amp outlet
installed in my garage and to buy a heater similar to this one:
http://www.shop.store.yahoo.com/air-n-water/dal4elshgahe.html (the one I
purchased looks the same but is by a different manufacturer and only cost me
about $140).
Total cost ran me less than $300, and the electric route seems much cheaper
here in Denver because of utility prices. Short of my "cheap solution" I
was going to go with a vented, natural gas unit, which with installation was
going to cost around $2000! This is not my ultimate shop and I'm not
necessarily made of that kind of money. The little heater I got in my shop
warms the whole place up in about 15 minutes if it's about zero degrees
outside. It also has a thermostat so that it turns on/off as needed. For
me this was the best solution.
I have no concerns about paint/solvent fume ignition with this solution and,
after considerable research, am not worried about wood dust explosions.
PJ
P.S. I tried one of those "Reddy Heaters" that hooked up to my grill's
propane tank, but I simply couldn't stand the fumes.
I have an 80,000 BTU propane heater. It get's the shop heated up amazingly
fast - one day it went from about 35 deg. F to about 75 deg. F in about 20
minutes. The shop side of the two car garage (there's a wall in between) IS
insulated, which I'm sure makes a difference. Still, lot's of windows and
even 3 skylights, so there's plenty of places for heat to be lost.
As for volatiles - I just used oil-based primer and paint on a chest of
drawers. All I did was to make some space on the kitty corner side of the
garage from the heater. I let the shop get nice and warm (more to let the
materials get warmed up than anything else) and then cut the gas flow to
about 50%. As long as you don't get a really high concentration of organic
fumes almost in direct contact with the flame, you're really in no danger.
Make sure you wear a good respirator, but that's of more concern, IMO, than
the flammability. I shut the heater off when I'm done and the shop will
stay above 50 deg. F at about 4-5 hours post the turn off (that's in about
20 deg. F outside temp). Still takes a full day to really be ready for
subsequent coats, but it get's the job done.
Mike
"Chris Barnabo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It's not a workshop yet, just a garage ... when it's a workshop it'll
> have underfloor heating, we just aren't likely to get there for another
> year or so.
>
> So I'm looking for a temporary solution to keep me from freezing out
> there in the meantime while we're working on the house (it's 6 deg F
> outside today). I've read the various posts re: propane vs. kerosene
> vs. electric, and while lots of folks asked about dust, I didn't see
> anything about more volatile substances. One of things I need to do is
> paint, with oil-based paints (and the requisite cleanup, of course,
> which is probably the dangerous part). Are any of these heaters safe to
> use in a painting environment?
>
> Extra moisture's my other concern as I do have my tools out there.
> There is a dehumidifier out there which pretty much sits idle this time
> of year, but as the tools have only moved from the utility room (heated)
> to the garage recently it's too early to say if rust might be a problem
> - however, I think not as none of the cast iron & steel stuff that has
> been in the garage these last two years is exhibiting rust.
>
> I don't have gas at the house, and I can't stand kerosene (I'm one of
> those folks who can really smell it), so I'd likely be looking at either
> propane off a BBQ tank or electric. The garage is 500 sq ft. of poorly
> insulated space, and I'd rather not punch a hole through it for
> ventilation since this is only supposed to be temporary (yes, I know,
> remember to ask me how temporary it really was in 10 years ...)
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> -- Chris
> ________*________ Chris Barnabo, [email protected]
> ____________ \_______________/ http://www.spagnet.com
> \__________/ / /
> __\ \_______/ /__ "The heck with the Prime Directive,
> \_______________/(- let's destroy something!"
Found my list of links under a reno category, sorry about the wait. These
are what I have. Hope all the links work. Some have excellent info.
Others are product pages. I haven't followed up for a while as my garage
will not get built this year. (New baby in the house). Anyhow, hope you
find the info helpful. If you want me to try to find more info, just let me
know.
http://www.ccithermal.com/catalog/page124.htm
http://www.spaceray.com/
http://www.esmagazine.com/CDA/ArticleInformation/features/BNP__Features__Item/0,2503,115672,00.html
http://www.combustionresearch.com/whatir.htm
http://www.electricpatiospaceheaters.com/infratube-infrared-heaters.htm
http://www.spaceray.co.uk/
http://www.schwank.co.uk/main.asp
http://www.infrasave.com/html/tube.html
http://www.nfesc.navy.mil/pub_news/tds/7337tds.htm interesting article
John V
"Nick Bozovich" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If you don't mind me jumping in here, what is this heater? Brand name, or
> "type" name/style? When you say "gas fired", are you talking about
propane,
> or natural gas? (or both?) Are we talking $200 or $2,000?
>
> I'm presuming that I won't find it at Home Depot or Lowes - maybe more
like
> a HVAC supplier?
>
> Thanks for your patience -
>
> Nick
>
> "JohnV" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:kLHLb.38818$ts4.13534@pd7tw3no...
> > A question. If you already have the garage, how are you planning to run
> the
> > pex? Are you hammering out the existing concrete or are you running it
on
> > the concrete and planning to put in a wooden floor over top? An
> aquantance
> > of mine has done a few installations of in floor heating and tells me
that
> > when they install now, they insulate the floor before the lay the sand
> base
> > and pour etc. They were finding that a lot of heat being produced was
> > absobed readily into the ground and not into the garage space because
the
> > garage is at ground level and not below the frost line. Overall, a very
> > expensive option regardless of how you do it.
> >
> > I, myself, am looking at a gas fired, radiant heat tube (Infra-red)
when
> I
> > build my garage/shop. Same type that you see in you local Lumber supply
> > warehouse, but smaller. Efficiency is higher than a furnace, safer and
> the
> > infrared heat heats the objects in the space instead of the air. Costs
> > about the same as a small furnace with better results. I know another
> > individual who has one in his 24 x 26 shop and it takes all of about
10-15
> > minutes to heat the whole shop comfortably in really cold weather. His
is
> a
> > 10 foot tube if I remember correctly and is set at a 45 degree angle to
> the
> > floor at the front of his shop. Only caveat for you is that it requires
a
> > single side vent but I think it is a great option since I have seen it
> first
> > hand. You have too if you've gone to some local supply warehouses.
> >
> > John V
> >
> >
> > "Chris Barnabo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > It's not a workshop yet, just a garage ... when it's a workshop it'll
> > > have underfloor heating, we just aren't likely to get there for
another
> > > year or so.
> > >
> > > So I'm looking for a temporary solution to keep me from freezing out
> > > there in the meantime while we're working on the house (it's 6 deg F
> > > outside today). I've read the various posts re: propane vs. kerosene
> > > vs. electric, and while lots of folks asked about dust, I didn't see
> > > anything about more volatile substances. One of things I need to do
is
> > > paint, with oil-based paints (and the requisite cleanup, of course,
> > > which is probably the dangerous part). Are any of these heaters safe
to
> > > use in a painting environment?
> > >
> > > Extra moisture's my other concern as I do have my tools out there.
> > > There is a dehumidifier out there which pretty much sits idle this
time
> > > of year, but as the tools have only moved from the utility room
(heated)
> > > to the garage recently it's too early to say if rust might be a
problem
> > > - however, I think not as none of the cast iron & steel stuff that has
> > > been in the garage these last two years is exhibiting rust.
> > >
> > > I don't have gas at the house, and I can't stand kerosene (I'm one of
> > > those folks who can really smell it), so I'd likely be looking at
either
> > > propane off a BBQ tank or electric. The garage is 500 sq ft. of
poorly
> > > insulated space, and I'd rather not punch a hole through it for
> > > ventilation since this is only supposed to be temporary (yes, I know,
> > > remember to ask me how temporary it really was in 10 years ...)
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > >
> > > -- Chris
> > > ________*________ Chris Barnabo, [email protected]
> > > ____________ \_______________/ http://www.spagnet.com
> > > \__________/ / /
> > > __\ \_______/ /__ "The heck with the Prime Directive,
> > > \_______________/(- let's destroy something!"
> >
> >
>
>
A question. If you already have the garage, how are you planning to run the
pex? Are you hammering out the existing concrete or are you running it on
the concrete and planning to put in a wooden floor over top? An aquantance
of mine has done a few installations of in floor heating and tells me that
when they install now, they insulate the floor before the lay the sand base
and pour etc. They were finding that a lot of heat being produced was
absobed readily into the ground and not into the garage space because the
garage is at ground level and not below the frost line. Overall, a very
expensive option regardless of how you do it.
I, myself, am looking at a gas fired, radiant heat tube (Infra-red) when I
build my garage/shop. Same type that you see in you local Lumber supply
warehouse, but smaller. Efficiency is higher than a furnace, safer and the
infrared heat heats the objects in the space instead of the air. Costs
about the same as a small furnace with better results. I know another
individual who has one in his 24 x 26 shop and it takes all of about 10-15
minutes to heat the whole shop comfortably in really cold weather. His is a
10 foot tube if I remember correctly and is set at a 45 degree angle to the
floor at the front of his shop. Only caveat for you is that it requires a
single side vent but I think it is a great option since I have seen it first
hand. You have too if you've gone to some local supply warehouses.
John V
"Chris Barnabo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It's not a workshop yet, just a garage ... when it's a workshop it'll
> have underfloor heating, we just aren't likely to get there for another
> year or so.
>
> So I'm looking for a temporary solution to keep me from freezing out
> there in the meantime while we're working on the house (it's 6 deg F
> outside today). I've read the various posts re: propane vs. kerosene
> vs. electric, and while lots of folks asked about dust, I didn't see
> anything about more volatile substances. One of things I need to do is
> paint, with oil-based paints (and the requisite cleanup, of course,
> which is probably the dangerous part). Are any of these heaters safe to
> use in a painting environment?
>
> Extra moisture's my other concern as I do have my tools out there.
> There is a dehumidifier out there which pretty much sits idle this time
> of year, but as the tools have only moved from the utility room (heated)
> to the garage recently it's too early to say if rust might be a problem
> - however, I think not as none of the cast iron & steel stuff that has
> been in the garage these last two years is exhibiting rust.
>
> I don't have gas at the house, and I can't stand kerosene (I'm one of
> those folks who can really smell it), so I'd likely be looking at either
> propane off a BBQ tank or electric. The garage is 500 sq ft. of poorly
> insulated space, and I'd rather not punch a hole through it for
> ventilation since this is only supposed to be temporary (yes, I know,
> remember to ask me how temporary it really was in 10 years ...)
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> -- Chris
> ________*________ Chris Barnabo, [email protected]
> ____________ \_______________/ http://www.spagnet.com
> \__________/ / /
> __\ \_______/ /__ "The heck with the Prime Directive,
> \_______________/(- let's destroy something!"
Electric is expensive. These radiant heaters can also accomodate propane.
John V
"Chris Barnabo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <kLHLb.38818$ts4.13534@pd7tw3no>,
> [email protected] says...
> > A question. If you already have the garage, how are you planning to run
the
> > pex?
>
> Oddly, the garage slab is several inches lower than the rest of the
> house, so I figured we'd easily be able to run the PEX and pour over it,
> bringing the finished concrete flush with the rest of the house. But
> ...
>
> > They were finding that a lot of heat being produced was
> > absobed readily into the ground and not into the garage space because
the
> > garage is at ground level and not below the frost line.
>
> ... I'm sure there's no insulation, and given the speed at which radiant
> heats (slow!) and the fact that the garage isn't always going to be in
> use, I'm really starting to think it's not such a good idea.
>
> > I, myself, am looking at a gas fired, radiant heat tube (Infra-red)
when I
> > build my garage/shop.
>
> I've seen those, and something that can fire fast and heat quickly is
> sounding like a better idea. As another poster said, I can always shut
> the thing down when working with volatile materials. The biggest
> problem is fueling the thing ... I don't have gas in the house, so I'd
> need an external tank (or something that could fire off our heating
> oil). One other poster suggested a 240V electric model, which could
> definitely be accomodated when I get around to rewiring (need to bump up
> the electrical service and add a new panel anyway if I want a decent
> table saw ... :-)
>
> Thanks, everyone, for all the suggestions!
>
> --
> -- Chris
> ________*________ Chris Barnabo, [email protected]
> ____________ \_______________/ http://www.spagnet.com
> \__________/ / /
> __\ \_______/ /__ "The heck with the Prime Directive,
> \_______________/(- let's destroy something!"
http://www.patioheating.com
I have more links somewhere, will find them and get back on this. Cost here
varies. Generally I found that regular heating contractors don't sell them
but a few commercial contractors/companies do. Can take both Propane or
Natural gas. I have seen very few electrical with the output that the
larger ones give. Besides the electrical end up being more costly if you
like being comfortable.
John V
"Nick Bozovich" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If you don't mind me jumping in here, what is this heater? Brand name, or
> "type" name/style? When you say "gas fired", are you talking about
propane,
> or natural gas? (or both?) Are we talking $200 or $2,000?
>
> I'm presuming that I won't find it at Home Depot or Lowes - maybe more
like
> a HVAC supplier?
>
> Thanks for your patience -
>
> Nick
>
> "JohnV" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:kLHLb.38818$ts4.13534@pd7tw3no...
> > A question. If you already have the garage, how are you planning to run
> the
> > pex? Are you hammering out the existing concrete or are you running it
on
> > the concrete and planning to put in a wooden floor over top? An
> aquantance
> > of mine has done a few installations of in floor heating and tells me
that
> > when they install now, they insulate the floor before the lay the sand
> base
> > and pour etc. They were finding that a lot of heat being produced was
> > absobed readily into the ground and not into the garage space because
the
> > garage is at ground level and not below the frost line. Overall, a very
> > expensive option regardless of how you do it.
> >
> > I, myself, am looking at a gas fired, radiant heat tube (Infra-red)
when
> I
> > build my garage/shop. Same type that you see in you local Lumber supply
> > warehouse, but smaller. Efficiency is higher than a furnace, safer and
> the
> > infrared heat heats the objects in the space instead of the air. Costs
> > about the same as a small furnace with better results. I know another
> > individual who has one in his 24 x 26 shop and it takes all of about
10-15
> > minutes to heat the whole shop comfortably in really cold weather. His
is
> a
> > 10 foot tube if I remember correctly and is set at a 45 degree angle to
> the
> > floor at the front of his shop. Only caveat for you is that it requires
a
> > single side vent but I think it is a great option since I have seen it
> first
> > hand. You have too if you've gone to some local supply warehouses.
> >
> > John V
> >
> >
> > "Chris Barnabo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > It's not a workshop yet, just a garage ... when it's a workshop it'll
> > > have underfloor heating, we just aren't likely to get there for
another
> > > year or so.
> > >
> > > So I'm looking for a temporary solution to keep me from freezing out
> > > there in the meantime while we're working on the house (it's 6 deg F
> > > outside today). I've read the various posts re: propane vs. kerosene
> > > vs. electric, and while lots of folks asked about dust, I didn't see
> > > anything about more volatile substances. One of things I need to do
is
> > > paint, with oil-based paints (and the requisite cleanup, of course,
> > > which is probably the dangerous part). Are any of these heaters safe
to
> > > use in a painting environment?
> > >
> > > Extra moisture's my other concern as I do have my tools out there.
> > > There is a dehumidifier out there which pretty much sits idle this
time
> > > of year, but as the tools have only moved from the utility room
(heated)
> > > to the garage recently it's too early to say if rust might be a
problem
> > > - however, I think not as none of the cast iron & steel stuff that has
> > > been in the garage these last two years is exhibiting rust.
> > >
> > > I don't have gas at the house, and I can't stand kerosene (I'm one of
> > > those folks who can really smell it), so I'd likely be looking at
either
> > > propane off a BBQ tank or electric. The garage is 500 sq ft. of
poorly
> > > insulated space, and I'd rather not punch a hole through it for
> > > ventilation since this is only supposed to be temporary (yes, I know,
> > > remember to ask me how temporary it really was in 10 years ...)
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > >
> > > -- Chris
> > > ________*________ Chris Barnabo, [email protected]
> > > ____________ \_______________/ http://www.spagnet.com
> > > \__________/ / /
> > > __\ \_______/ /__ "The heck with the Prime Directive,
> > > \_______________/(- let's destroy something!"
> >
> >
>
>