Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
compound mitre saw? A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price but I'm just not sure if having
it is worth the cost and the extra space that it will take up in my
garage/workshop. Can I mount it to my workbench or do I need it more
mobile than that? Also what are its capabilities/advantages over the
table saw or compound mitre saw? Thanks for the help.
On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 06:44:01 -0800, Basspro* wrote:
> How in the world do you rip plywood with the RAS? It's arm only moves
> about 2 feet. Do you just fix the unit in place then move the plywood
> itself through the blade? I'm confused on this one, sorry, but I'm new
> to woodworking and especially the RAS.
Go immediately to the following site and buy and download this book:
http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes/ProductDetail.asp?ProdID=3&nPrdImageID=&CatID=3
-Doug
On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 21:21:33 +0000, Mark wrote:
> Generally the fence on a RAS is set to the front of the saw.
> This makes it easier to use for most operations. A few more
> inches of rip capacity can be gained by setting the fence to
> the base/ column.
The fence is normally set to the backside of the front table and held in
place by a clamping action between the front table and the back table(s).
The rear table is usually in two pieces - on my saw, a 3" wide middle
table and a 5-1/2" rear table. The fence can be clamped between the
middle and back table to gain 3" of table space or behind the back table
to gain 8-1/2" of table space for ripping. Positioning the fence behind
the middle table also allows crosscutting 3" wider thin material than the
normal fence position.
-Doug
--
"It's not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the
strong man stumbled, or where the doer of deeds could have done better.
The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face
is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly; who errs
and comes short again and again; who knows the great enthusiasms, the
great devotions; who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the best,
knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who at worst, if
he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall
never be with those timid souls who know neither victory or defeat."
- Theodore Roosevelt
"Wilson Lamb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Many good reasons are given. I wouldn't be without my RAS. It's the
thing
> for big work.
>
> Best of all is to make a long table for ripping big stuff. I've ripped
20'
> roughcut 2X framing on mine. I don't think I could possibly do that on
the
> TS. Crosscuts on big stock are much easier too, because you can get the
> stock all set up and then pull the carriage across...no binding!
>
> The moving head is great for anything big or tricky. I recnetly had to
take
> 15 degree cuts on the ends of some 2X4, for sawhorse legs. I just marked
> the 15 deg line on the table, held the ends against the fence, and
> cut...very fast and all 8 are fine.
>
> Taking an 8' rip off a piece of sheet stock is a snap. Just keep it on
the
> fence and push!
>
> The RAS certaiinly falls down for precision work, because the locks,
> especially the column lock that holds the miter angle, can be sloppy.
>
> Ripping short stock can be a problem, because you have to get close to the
> blade to push it through...not a good situation.
>
> Wilson
>
>
>
My TS or miter saw will do all these cuts.
That said I do have a RAS. I use it very little, but when I do it is because
no other machine cans do the cuts it can with the same ease.
Greg
Only advantages are when working with really LONG boards, or when
doing things like lots of lap joints. Otherwise, you can essentially
do anything that a RAS can do on your table saw or mitersaw
John
On 12 Jan 2004 08:32:47 -0800, [email protected] (Basspro*) wrote:
>Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
>compound mitre saw? A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
>an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price but I'm just not sure if having
>it is worth the cost and the extra space that it will take up in my
>garage/workshop. Can I mount it to my workbench or do I need it more
>mobile than that? Also what are its capabilities/advantages over the
>table saw or compound mitre saw? Thanks for the help.
Basspro* wrote:
> Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
> compound mitre saw? A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
> an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price
If it's a top crank I would get it just to have it.
If it's cheap enough.
--
Mark
N.E. Ohio
Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart.
(S. Clemens, A.K.A. Mark Twain)
When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure
ends the suspense. (Gaz, r.moto)
Many good reasons are given. I wouldn't be without my RAS. It's the thing
for big work.
Best of all is to make a long table for ripping big stuff. I've ripped 20'
roughcut 2X framing on mine. I don't think I could possibly do that on the
TS. Crosscuts on big stock are much easier too, because you can get the
stock all set up and then pull the carriage across...no binding!
The moving head is great for anything big or tricky. I recnetly had to take
15 degree cuts on the ends of some 2X4, for sawhorse legs. I just marked
the 15 deg line on the table, held the ends against the fence, and
cut...very fast and all 8 are fine.
Taking an 8' rip off a piece of sheet stock is a snap. Just keep it on the
fence and push!
The RAS certaiinly falls down for precision work, because the locks,
especially the column lock that holds the miter angle, can be sloppy.
Ripping short stock can be a problem, because you have to get close to the
blade to push it through...not a good situation.
Wilson
"Basspro*" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
> compound mitre saw? A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
> an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price but I'm just not sure if having
> it is worth the cost and the extra space that it will take up in my
> garage/workshop. Can I mount it to my workbench or do I need it more
> mobile than that? Also what are its capabilities/advantages over the
> table saw or compound mitre saw? Thanks for the help.
"Basspro*" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
> compound mitre saw? A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
> an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price but I'm just not sure if having
>=================================
First of all let me say that I own 2 tablesaws and a RAS
BUT NO CMS....
The RAS is used only for cut off work..shortining long boards etc... and has
not moved off 90 degrees in over 20 years...I will ocassionally use it to do
dados since it is much easier to do with a RAS then a Tablesaw...
To me unless the Dewalt RAS is selling for less then a tank of gasoline and
you have room for it in your shop I honestly would PASS... I thought about
replacing my RAS with a CMS but honestly I have not come up with any reason
to .... TODAY if I were a young man justr setting up shop I would have a CMS
instead of the RAS BUT I sure would not go out and buy a RAS if I already
had a CMS...
Just my opinion...
Bob GRiffiths
Sorry Mark, I already bought from the guy for $40.00. Its probably 20
years old but is square and has a very strong 2hp motor. I just don't
have much space for it.
Mark <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Basspro* wrote:
>
> > Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
> > compound mitre saw? A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
> > an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price
>
>
>
> Where are you? If your within a few hours drive and the
> price is right (and it's the Right DeWalt) I'll come get it.
>
> I have this thing for old machinery and have always wanted a
> DeWalt.
>
>
> --
>
> Mark
>
> N.E. Ohio
>
>
> Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart.
> (S. Clemens, A.K.A. Mark Twain)
>
> When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure
> ends the suspense. (Gaz, r.moto)
How in the world do you rip plywood with the RAS? It's arm only moves
about 2 feet. Do you just fix the unit in place then move the plywood
itself through the blade? I'm confused on this one, sorry, but I'm new
to woodworking and especially the RAS.
Lawrence A. Ramsey <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Yep. Hadn't thought about long dados. Good point. There are times when
> cutting plywoood that a RAS would be nice.
>
>
> On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 17:54:58 GMT, "Leslie Gossett"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I have all three. You cant beat a RAS for doing dados, or crosscutting a
> >long and wide board. The CMS just doesn't compare.
> >
> >Leslie
> >
> >She's got tools, and she knows how to use them.
> >
> >
> >"Basspro*" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
> >> compound mitre saw? A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
> >> an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price but I'm just not sure if having
> >> it is worth the cost and the extra space that it will take up in my
> >> garage/workshop. Can I mount it to my workbench or do I need it more
> >> mobile than that? Also what are its capabilities/advantages over the
> >> table saw or compound mitre saw? Thanks for the help.
> >
Thanks Bob for the info and advice. I did buy it for $40. Its such an
old Dewalt that it doesn't have the Dewalt colors that Dewalt sells by
now. Its more of a tannish dark yellow instead of the bright yellow.
However this seems to be a good saw and it'll probably hardly get used
but when I need it it'll be there.
"Bob G" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "Basspro*" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
> > compound mitre saw? A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
> > an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price but I'm just not sure if having
> >=================================
> First of all let me say that I own 2 tablesaws and a RAS
> BUT NO CMS....
>
> The RAS is used only for cut off work..shortining long boards etc... and has
> not moved off 90 degrees in over 20 years...I will ocassionally use it to do
> dados since it is much easier to do with a RAS then a Tablesaw...
>
> To me unless the Dewalt RAS is selling for less then a tank of gasoline and
> you have room for it in your shop I honestly would PASS... I thought about
> replacing my RAS with a CMS but honestly I have not come up with any reason
> to .... TODAY if I were a young man justr setting up shop I would have a CMS
> instead of the RAS BUT I sure would not go out and buy a RAS if I already
> had a CMS...
>
> Just my opinion...
>
> Bob GRiffiths
>To me unless the DeWalt RAS is selling for less then a tank of gasoline and
you have room for it in your shop I honestly would PASS...
For a bit more than the price of a tank of gasoline, on abpw, a moulding in
maple recently made on the RAS.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> To me unless the Dewalt RAS is selling for less then a tank of gasoline
and
> you have room for it in your shop I honestly would PASS... I thought about
> replacing my RAS with a CMS but honestly I have not come up with any
reason
> to .... TODAY if I were a young man justr setting up shop I would have a
CMS
> instead of the RAS BUT I sure would not go out and buy a RAS if I already
> had a CMS...
>
> Just my opinion...
>
> Bob GRiffiths
>
>
>It did a good job but a PITA to switch diags
Ah, had a tough time with the LH miters on the RAS? Tis easy to do, make an
auxiliary "broken fence" fence 90 degs to normal, swing to the right hand
miter position, place the aux fence so that you cut at the miter mark and
feed you LH miters in straight into the saw.
I've uploaded a drawing of the broken fence to abpw.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"Jerry McCaffrey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leslie Gossett" <[email protected]> wrote in <ShWMb.6879$i4.6294
> @newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net>:
>
> >I have all three. You cant beat a RAS for doing dados, or crosscutting a
> >long and wide board. The CMS just doesn't compare.
> >
> >Leslie
> >
> >
>
> Trimmed an entire house with a RAS and built a cedar planked bathroom on
the
> 45 diag with it also. It did a good job but a PITA to switch diags. Just
> trimmed a room with a CMS ...what a pleasure.
Rumpty wrote:
> Do you know what model number it is? How many amps the motor and the size
> of the blade?
I want to know too.
--
Mark
N.E. Ohio
Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart.
(S. Clemens, A.K.A. Mark Twain)
When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure
ends the suspense. (Gaz, r.moto)
Yep. Hadn't thought about long dados. Good point. There are times when
cutting plywoood that a RAS would be nice.
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 17:54:58 GMT, "Leslie Gossett"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have all three. You cant beat a RAS for doing dados, or crosscutting a
>long and wide board. The CMS just doesn't compare.
>
>Leslie
>
>She's got tools, and she knows how to use them.
>
>
>"Basspro*" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
>> compound mitre saw? A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
>> an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price but I'm just not sure if having
>> it is worth the cost and the extra space that it will take up in my
>> garage/workshop. Can I mount it to my workbench or do I need it more
>> mobile than that? Also what are its capabilities/advantages over the
>> table saw or compound mitre saw? Thanks for the help.
>
> maintained. With the required amount of caution it is no more
> dangerous than either the Miter Saw or the Table Saw. Like most large
> stationary tools it can hurt you severely if you use it carelessly.
I would not want to mislead people reading this and imply that the numerous
accounts of getting hurt with a radial arm saw are because the person
getting hurt was dumb or made a glaring mistake. Reading all the accounts
of RAS accidents, one gets the feeling that a RAS:
1) Takes much more experience to use properly than any other saw,
2) Is MUCH less forgiving than any other type of saw. A small error while
cutting on a TS may scare the %^$%^ out of you, but most probably not do
much harm. An error of the same magnitude while using a RAS may injure you
greatly.
3) Has many more things that could go wrong under regular use. There are
lots of things to adjust and tune. A badly tuned RAS will probably injure
you, whereas a badly runed TS will most probably produce a lousy cut on the
wood. A badly tuned miter saw will probably just produce a bvad cut as
well.
Do you agree or not?
I bring this up because perfectly reasonable and safe people have gotten
badly injured while using RAS saws. The injuries did not occur because they
were drunk, inept, or stupid, the injuries occurred because the RAS was not
forgiving enough of a machine.
Gabriel writes:
>I bring this up because perfectly reasonable and safe people have gotten
>badly injured while using RAS saws. The injuries did not occur because they
>were drunk, inept, or stupid, the injuries occurred because the RAS was not
>forgiving enough of a machine.
I'm not a real RAS fancier, but anyone who starts asking a machine to be
"forgiving" is on the way to getting badly hurt, sooner or later, and probably
sooner.
Charlie Self
"Take care of the luxuries and the necessities will take care of themselves."
Dorothy Parker
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
> I'm not a real RAS fancier, but anyone who starts asking a machine to be
> "forgiving" is on the way to getting badly hurt, sooner or later, and
probably
> sooner.
Fair enough (and I am not one to ask a machine to be forgiving). It's just
that new people don't seem to know that a RAS is more dangerous than first
meets the eye (and it looks pretty menacing as it is).
>
>I'm not a real RAS fancier, but anyone who starts asking a machine to be
>"forgiving" is on the way to getting badly hurt, sooner or later, and probably
>sooner.
>
>Charlie Self
>"Take care of the luxuries and the necessities will take care of themselves."
>Dorothy Parker
>
>http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
Charlie, you have such a way with words. Goes right along with my
belief that a machine is not dangerous, but people, on the other hand,
can be very dangerous..
Nick
"Basspro*" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
> compound mitre saw? A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
> an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price but I'm just not sure if having
> it is worth the cost and the extra space that it will take up in my
> garage/workshop. Can I mount it to my workbench or do I need it more
> mobile than that? Also what are its capabilities/advantages over the
> table saw or compound mitre saw? Thanks for the help.
Not having read any other responses yet, I will say that a radio alarm saw
has some very limited uses in a home shop. I don't have one and probably
won't ever, but here's what I see they're useful for:
- if you have them locked in at a dead-nuts angle and height, they work well
for cutting dadoes in wider boards.
- they are great for rough cuts for length - usually where you see them used
the most in sawmills, lumber yards and places like home despot.
- can't think of anything else that a table saw or chop saw can't do better.
Actually, I can't think of anything that another tool can't do better.
Anything you can do with a RAS, you can do with a table saw and a couple of
jigs.
Jon E
I used to have all three. Sold the mitre saw. I used it for job site
stuff. It was not accurate enough for furniture. I had the RAS before
I got a TS. Built some nice stuff with it. I would say go for the RAS.
If it doesn't work out, sell it again. I think you'll appreciate it.
mahalo,
jo4hn
Basspro* wrote:
> Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
> compound mitre saw? A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
> an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price but I'm just not sure if having
> it is worth the cost and the extra space that it will take up in my
> garage/workshop. Can I mount it to my workbench or do I need it more
> mobile than that? Also what are its capabilities/advantages over the
> table saw or compound mitre saw? Thanks for the help.
Mike,
Radial arm saws are pretty much obsolete these days, and an old unit like
that dewalt is probably downright dangerous since it was manufactured before
the cpsc mandated better guards and warning labels. Yep I really don't think
you should risk putting that in your shop. Just tell your friend to ship the
saw to me. I will know what to do with it. In the interest of safety i'll
even split the cost of shipping.
Scott.
> From: [email protected] (Basspro*)
> Organization: http://groups.google.com
> Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
> Date: 12 Jan 2004 08:32:47 -0800
> Subject: Radial Arm Saw? What can they do that a Mitre and Table saw can't.
>
> Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
> compound mitre saw? A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
> an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price but I'm just not sure if having
> it is worth the cost and the extra space that it will take up in my
> garage/workshop. Can I mount it to my workbench or do I need it more
> mobile than that? Also what are its capabilities/advantages over the
> table saw or compound mitre saw? Thanks for the help.
On 2004/1/14 11:04 AM, "Doug Winterburn" <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 06:44:01 -0800, Basspro* wrote:
>
> Go immediately to the following site and buy and download this book:
>
> http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes/ProductDetail.asp?ProdID=3&nPrdImageID=&C
> atID=3
'
I am glad to see that Eakes' book is still available even if not in a
hardcopy format. This is a classic and will remain current as long as there
are radial arms saws.
I second Doug's comments. If I were in your shoes I would not buy the
RAS as the additional value to your shop is minimal since you have a TS
& CMS. The space it will take up negates the limited additional value
to you. Sorry, but this is a tool opportunity that you should pass on.
--
Larry C in Auburn WA
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:kDAMb.25943$P%[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] (Basspro*) wrote:
> >Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
> >compound mitre saw?
>
> Probably not.
>
> > A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
> >an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price but I'm just not sure if having
> >it is worth the cost and the extra space that it will take up in my
> >garage/workshop. Can I mount it to my workbench or do I need it more
> >mobile than that?
>
> I have mine on a mobile base, but that's mostly so I can clean behind
it more
> easily. I rarely move it for any other reason.
>
> > Also what are its capabilities/advantages over the
> >table saw or compound mitre saw? Thanks for the help.
>
> Compound miter saw can't make rip cuts, radial arm saw can -- but a
table saw
> does a better and safer job. Since you already have a table saw, this
is not a
> reason to buy a radial arm saw.
>
> Most radial arm saws will accomodate a dado set; I believe that most
compound
> miter saws will not. However -- unless the radial arm saw's table is
dead flat
> *and* dead parallel to the saw carriage, you can't get dados of a
uniform
> depth. This operation is better done with a table saw or a router.
>
> It's easier to crosscut long or heavy boards with a compound miter saw
> or a radial arm saw than with a table saw, because the board remains
> stationary. The only advantage I can see in this respect to a RAS over
a CMS
> is that the RAS is likely to have a greater width capacity for
crosscuts,
> greater even than a sliding CMS. On the other hand, it's a very rare
event for
> me to *need* that extra capacity.
>
> Big *dis*advantage to the RAS is all the space they take up. I bought
mine
> more than twenty years ago, long before I ever saw a CMS. If I had
neither one
> right now, I would buy a sliding CMS in preference to a RAS to save
space.
> Particularly in your case, I think the space issue argues against
buying the
> RAS: the advantages you gain from it, if any, could hardly outweigh
the
> sacrifice of dedicating part of your workbench surface to a tool that
you will
> probably use only rarely.
>
> --
> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>
> How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50
for Miss America?
"Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> There are all to many "me too" posts, with no qualifying information
> included, going around passing out old wives tales. If someone is going to
> post an opinion that has any meaning one should also post what that
opinion
> was based on.
Agreed. In my case, some experience was had. YMMV, obviously. I apologize
for my prior comment.
I would tend to say that the RAS is one of the more versatile tools you can
have in the shop, provided that you have the necessary attachments and
accessories to make it do other things. I find them to be a mediocre
jack-of-all-trades, master of none, and barely adequate for anything except
rough crosscutting. Some of the older DeWalts, Red Star, Northfield, and
even the Deltas had some stars and some dogs, and the good ones are solid as
a rock. Problem is, there's so many things that can cause errors - bad
bearings, worn rails, slop in the raising mechanism, bed not parallel to the
rails, out of plumb, etc, that to me, it's not worth having one unless you
dedicate it to one specific purpose. At that point, you've got a one-tasker
that takes up a lot of room.
Jon E
Actually yes it was. Had you even hinted that your opinion was based on any
kind of real knowledge of the tool rather then being a "me too" post voting
for the party line I would not have felt compelled to post as I did.
There are all to many "me too" posts, with no qualifying information
included, going around passing out old wives tales. If someone is going to
post an opinion that has any meaning one should also post what that opinion
was based on.
In this case my opinion was based on information not given.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Jon Endres, PE" <[email protected]> wrote in
message news:[email protected]...
> "Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > > Not having read any other responses yet, I will say that a radio alarm
> saw
> > > has some very limited uses in a home shop. I don't have one and
> probably
> > > won't ever, but here's what I see they're useful for:
> > >
> >
> > Nothing I like to see more then pronouncements from the mount by someone
> who
> > not only doesn't have the vaguest idea of what the hell they are talking
> > about but proudly announce the fact.
> >
> > Bet you call Craftsman tools Crapsman too cause it makes you sound cool.
>
> I spent several years using one. I found them to be as much use as I
said.
> I don't like them, and said so.
>
> Was your response to my post relevant at all, or do you just like stirring
> up shit?
>
> Asshole.
>
>
>
>
> I would tend to say that the RAS is one of the more versatile tools you
can
>have in the shop, provided that you have the necessary attachments and
>accessories to make it do other things.
Now that we have the bad stuff taken care of let me share my thoughts on the
RAS.
I included the above quote from your post to say that for the most part I
agree. Any tool that tries to be too much almost has to fall into the
category of jack of all trades and master of none.
But, lets discount all the little nice things the makers would like us to
think the tool can do and concentrate on what it is really meant to do which
is to cross cut stock.
Why the bad rep for the RAS? Look into the history of the tool and you will
find that the main use of a RAS, almost from it's inception, was as an on
site contractors tool. As such it was not only not meant to be a precision
machine but, for the various reasons you state, all the moving parts, and
the fact that not only was every ham fisted apprentice on the site using one
machine but the machine had to survive being thrown into the back of a truck
along with the contractors saw and bounce around between job sites.
Today you will find adherents of the RAS almost unanimously saying they
don't make them like they used too. The reason is that the only old RAS's
one finds today are like period furniture found in a museum. They weren't
subject to the abuse their cousins were. These old RAS's found today and
coveted were probably tools in someone's shop or maybe stationary in a
cabinet shop. The same for those, like myself, who say they have had their
RAS's for years with no trouble. Of course we haven't nor are we really
likely too. How often and how long, does one person in a small shop
actually have any big power tool running and how frequently are the settings
changed? The answer is, not often or at least not anything like what would
be found in a busy multi person shop or, say, a high school shop class.
Yes, a CMS has fewer moving parts and is less likely to get knocked out of
alignment but the RAS, due to it's wider cut and ability to take dado
blades, remains more versatile and, in a one man shop, is, even new ones, is
quite capable of remaining in tune for many years.
The real irony of the whole thing is that a miter saw, because of it's
portability and simpler construction, is better adapted to the original
intent of the RAS then the RAS ever was.
There is nothing wrong with either tool nor preferring one over the other
but damning one or the other for reasons of accuracy or lack of abilities is
doing both a disservice. A RAS is as accurate as the user makes it and will
stay tuned and true as long as it is treated properly and a miter saw is an
uncomplicated and accurate tool that makes up for it's lack of capacities by
it's portability and taking up little room in a small shop.
As for this "safety" BS that some try to foist off as a reason why there
shouldn't be any RAS's, don't even go there with me. All tools including a
sharp chisel or dull screwdriver are inherently dangerous and have to be
treated with total respect. Only a fool approaches any tool with the idea it
is in some way "safe just as anyone who climbs up on a horse or pets a dog
is in a fools paradise if they think they are "safe". Anyone care to bet on
which ratio is higher, number of RAS owners bit by their RAS every year or
the number of dog owners bit by their dogs every year?
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
>The RAS certainly falls down for precision work, because the locks,
especially the column lock that holds the miter angle, can be sloppy.
He's buying a DeWalt so alignment isn't an argument.
>Ripping short stock can be a problem, because you have to get close to the
blade to push it through...not a good situation.
Use a push board. See the Mr. Sawdust Book "How To Master The Radial Saw"
to see how a push board is made/used.
In addition to the other fine suggestions a RAS can also be used for
precision shaping and moulding work, compound miters, gaining, and ripping
non jointed boards.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
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"Doug Winterburn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 22:20:17 +0000, Jon Endres, PE wrote:
>
> > Actually, I can't think of anything that another tool can't do better.
> > Anything you can do with a RAS, you can do with a table saw and a couple
of
> > jigs.
>
> [sigh]
>
> It's an old DeWalt, so all the "it ain't accurate" stuff isn't true as
> long as the RAS is properly set up and tuned.
>
> Here's a partial list of things I do on my RAS that maybe you could show
> me how to do on a TS:
>
> - horizontal boring for accurate dowelling and mortices.
>
> - overhead pin routing.
>
> - decorative surface routing.
>
> - 1/2" bore shaper cutters.
>
> - rotary surface planing for flattening and thicknessing.
>
> - drum sanding
>
> - croscutting up to 20' long & UP TO 4" thick stock (otherwise I gotta
> open the gar^H^H^Hshop door).
>
> - stack dado (my TS has a stubby arbor).
>
> And it does this stuff accurately - no rough cross cutting etc.
>
> -Doug
OK, I stand corrected. Mea culpa. J
"Basspro*" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
> compound mitre saw? A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
> an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price but I'm just not sure if having
> it is worth the cost and the extra space that it will take up in my
> garage/workshop.
If it's a good machine for a good price, go for it.
I have both, and would not part with either now.
There are things that can be done with each that can't be done on the other.
I like to dado on the RAS for the simple reason that you can see the cuts
being made.
(Of course you must make sure the table is level with respect to the runout
of the head.)
Same for multiple cutoffs. I use TS for most long rips.
Can I mount it to my workbench or do I need it more
> mobile than that?
Mine is mounted on a metal cabinet and I have locking wheels on it. Makes it
handy to move
back out of the way when not in use. Before I moved here and built a new
shop, I used to roll the RAS outside the garage door to use it because I had
so little room.
Also what are its capabilities/advantages over the
> table saw or compound mitre saw?
No comparison to CMS. CMS cannot do any ripping or anything but make mitre
cuts or cutoffs of narrow pieces.
You will want to keep your TS and CMS both.
Although you can make mitre cuts with the RAS, I only use it as a last
resort on boards too wide for the CMS.
Good luck.
The RAS will except a dado blade which a miter saw won't. The RAS will cut
wider stock..
Try to work the rest of it out yourself.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Basspro*" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
> compound mitre saw? A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
> an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price but I'm just not sure if having
> it is worth the cost and the extra space that it will take up in my
> garage/workshop. Can I mount it to my workbench or do I need it more
> mobile than that? Also what are its capabilities/advantages over the
> table saw or compound mitre saw? Thanks for the help.
> Not having read any other responses yet, I will say that a radio alarm saw
> has some very limited uses in a home shop. I don't have one and probably
> won't ever, but here's what I see they're useful for:
>
Nothing I like to see more then pronouncements from the mount by someone who
not only doesn't have the vaguest idea of what the hell they are talking
about but proudly announce the fact.
Bet you call Craftsman tools Crapsman too cause it makes you sound cool.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
I have all three. You cant beat a RAS for doing dados, or crosscutting a
long and wide board. The CMS just doesn't compare.
Leslie
She's got tools, and she knows how to use them.
"Basspro*" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
> compound mitre saw? A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
> an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price but I'm just not sure if having
> it is worth the cost and the extra space that it will take up in my
> garage/workshop. Can I mount it to my workbench or do I need it more
> mobile than that? Also what are its capabilities/advantages over the
> table saw or compound mitre saw? Thanks for the help.
>I will say that the tendency
of a RAS to "climb" or "walk" on a work piece is very disquieting when
it accidently comes in contact with a piece of wood.
Use a Forrest WW1 blade with the TCP triple chip profile, a properly aligned
saw and you DON'T have a climbing "problem".
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
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"Leslie Gossett" <[email protected]> wrote in <ShWMb.6879$i4.6294
@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net>:
>I have all three. You cant beat a RAS for doing dados, or crosscutting a
>long and wide board. The CMS just doesn't compare.
>
>Leslie
>
>
Trimmed an entire house with a RAS and built a cedar planked bathroom on the
45 diag with it also. It did a good job but a PITA to switch diags. Just
trimmed a room with a CMS ...what a pleasure.
If this helps, my first large saw was a RAS. I built most of the furniture
in my house with it between 1979 and 1983. In 1983 I added a TS to my
collection and cannot remember using the RAS after that point. 2 years
later it was gone and I have not once missed it. The RAS can do more than
the TS in terms of versatility but IMHO most of the operations can be done
better with just about any other tool. If you are in a pinch, it can get
you out of a jam in some instances.
Basspro* wrote:
> Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
> compound mitre saw? A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
> an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price
Where are you? If your within a few hours drive and the
price is right (and it's the Right DeWalt) I'll come get it.
I have this thing for old machinery and have always wanted a
DeWalt.
--
Mark
N.E. Ohio
Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart.
(S. Clemens, A.K.A. Mark Twain)
When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure
ends the suspense. (Gaz, r.moto)
"Basspro*" wrote in message
> Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
<respectfully snipped>
I only use mine for cutting long pieces of lumber, as it is easier because I
have a long work bench. Where I work days, there are two, one for cutoff,
and another for 3/4" dados.
Personally, I don't recommend saw to anyone who is not doing production
work.
I also would consider the safety risks involved if you decide to do any
ripping or weird stuff with this machine.
Just my lame opinion
woodstuff
On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 22:20:17 +0000, Jon Endres, PE wrote:
> Actually, I can't think of anything that another tool can't do better.
> Anything you can do with a RAS, you can do with a table saw and a couple of
> jigs.
[sigh]
It's an old DeWalt, so all the "it ain't accurate" stuff isn't true as
long as the RAS is properly set up and tuned.
Here's a partial list of things I do on my RAS that maybe you could show
me how to do on a TS:
- horizontal boring for accurate dowelling and mortices.
- overhead pin routing.
- decorative surface routing.
- 1/2" bore shaper cutters.
- rotary surface planing for flattening and thicknessing.
- drum sanding
- croscutting up to 20' long & UP TO 4" thick stock (otherwise I gotta
open the gar^H^H^Hshop door).
- stack dado (my TS has a stubby arbor).
And it does this stuff accurately - no rough cross cutting etc.
-Doug
Do you know what model number it is? How many amps the motor and the size
of the blade?
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
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"Basspro*" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks Bob for the info and advice. I did buy it for $40. Its such an
> old Dewalt that it doesn't have the Dewalt colors that Dewalt sells by
> now. Its more of a tannish dark yellow instead of the bright yellow.
> However this seems to be a good saw and it'll probably hardly get used
> but when I need it it'll be there.
>
> "Bob G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > "Basspro*" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
> > > compound mitre saw? A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
> > > an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price but I'm just not sure if having
> > >=================================
> > First of all let me say that I own 2 tablesaws and a RAS
> > BUT NO CMS....
> >
> > The RAS is used only for cut off work..shortining long boards etc... and
has
> > not moved off 90 degrees in over 20 years...I will ocassionally use it
to do
> > dados since it is much easier to do with a RAS then a Tablesaw...
> >
> > To me unless the Dewalt RAS is selling for less then a tank of gasoline
and
> > you have room for it in your shop I honestly would PASS... I thought
about
> > replacing my RAS with a CMS but honestly I have not come up with any
reason
> > to .... TODAY if I were a young man justr setting up shop I would have a
CMS
> > instead of the RAS BUT I sure would not go out and buy a RAS if I
already
> > had a CMS...
> >
> > Just my opinion...
> >
> > Bob GRiffiths
gabriel wrote:
>
> ... Reading all the accounts
> of RAS accidents, one gets the feeling that a RAS:
>
> 1) Takes much more experience to use properly than any other saw,
>
> 2) Is MUCH less forgiving than any other type of saw.
>
> 3) Has many more things that could go wrong under regular use. There are
> lots of things to adjust and tune.
>
> Do you agree or not?
>
> I bring this up because perfectly reasonable and safe people have gotten
> badly injured while using RAS saws.
What your writing is: To use a RAS you have to have a clue?
Agreed.
Question(s): When did the power miter box appear and when
did they become a consumer item?
--
Mark
N.E. Ohio
Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart.
(S. Clemens, A.K.A. Mark Twain)
When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure
ends the suspense. (Gaz, r.moto)
? Did I say a Bad thing?
Jon and I worked things out and this last wasn't meant to knock his second
message. I was just putting my thoughts on the RAS down. I included a quote
only to indicate I, to some measure, agreed with the statement.
Didn't mean the post to be derogatory to anyone.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Geez! Remind me to keep my mouf shut when Mike's around.
>
> UA100
"Tbone" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Yes, very dangerous, in fact, far too dangerous to even consider shipping
> it. With the interest of safety in mind, I will come over there and pick it
> up myself. Is tomorrow ok?
>
>
> --
> If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving
>
>
> "J.S. McAuley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:BC288C14.1D20A%[email protected]...
> > Mike,
> > Radial arm saws are pretty much obsolete these days, and an old unit like
> > that dewalt is probably downright dangerous since it was manufactured
> before
> > the cpsc mandated better guards and warning labels. Yep I really don't
> think
> > you should risk putting that in your shop. Just tell your friend to ship
> the
> > saw to me. I will know what to do with it. In the interest of safety i'll
> > even split the cost of shipping.
> > Scott.
> >
> > > From: [email protected] (Basspro*)
> > > Organization: http://groups.google.com
> > > Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
> > > Date: 12 Jan 2004 08:32:47 -0800
> > > Subject: Radial Arm Saw? What can they do that a Mitre and Table saw
> can't.
> > >
> > > Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
> > > compound mitre saw? A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
> > > an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price but I'm just not sure if having
> > > it is worth the cost and the extra space that it will take up in my
> > > garage/workshop. Can I mount it to my workbench or do I need it more
> > > mobile than that? Also what are its capabilities/advantages over the
> > > table saw or compound mitre saw? Thanks for the help.
> >
A radial arm saw can be a great tool if properly set up and
maintained. With the required amount of caution it is no more
dangerous than either the Miter Saw or the Table Saw. Like most large
stationary tools it can hurt you severely if you use it carelessly.
As you can tell from the other posts, it's still a popular power tool.
It can be used for miters even though it is more trouble than a good
compound miter saw. Some of the difference can be overcome with
accurate jigs. It can also be used to rip lumber and plywood when
properly set up even though I find the table saw easier to use for
this purpose.
My experience with radial arm saws is that they really shine when you
have a large amount of crosscutting to do. A full size radial arm saw
will buzz through 17 inch wide pieces easily and smoothly. So, if you
don't already have a good table saw and compound miter saw, this will
probably be a good buy.
In all honesty, I would prefer a good large compound miter saw and
table saw if I could afford it. But I know that I could get the job
done with a good radial arm saw.
Bill
[email protected]
http://woodworkdoctor.com
Bill Benitez writes:
>My experience with radial arm saws is that they really shine when you
>have a large amount of crosscutting to do. A full size radial arm saw
>will buzz through 17 inch wide pieces easily and smoothly. So, if you
>don't already have a good table saw and compound miter saw, this will
>probably be a good buy.
More like 26" for a real full-sized RAS, say an 18" Delta.
Charlie Self
"Take care of the luxuries and the necessities will take care of themselves."
Dorothy Parker
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 06:44:01 -0800, Basspro* wrote:
> How in the world do you rip plywood with the RAS? It's arm only moves
> about 2 feet. Do you just fix the unit in place then move the plywood
> itself through the blade? I'm confused on this one, sorry, but I'm new
> to woodworking and especially the RAS.
You rotate the motor 90 degrees counterclockwise for an outrip or 90
degrees clockwise for an inrip. You then lock the motor on the arm with
the blade parallel to the fence and at the desired rip width. Make
sure the rear of the guard is rotated down just above the work piece
as a hold down and any anti-kickback pawls and splitter on the front
of the guard are adjusted to the workpiece. Feed the stock held against
the fence and against the rotation of the blade. Use pushsticks to keep a
safe distance at the end of the cut. Beware of very narrow rips or very
thin stock.
-Doug
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 15:26:48 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>If this helps, my first large saw was a RAS. I built most of the furniture
>in my house with it between 1979 and 1983. In 1983 I added a TS to my
>collection and cannot remember using the RAS after that point. 2 years
>later it was gone and I have not once missed it. The RAS can do more than
>the TS in terms of versatility but IMHO most of the operations can be done
>better with just about any other tool. If you are in a pinch, it can get
>you out of a jam in some instances.
>
the way I feel about the RAS is that no complete shop should be
without one, but that it should be the last machine you buy.
it can be set up to do a bunch of things, a few of them well and the
rest of them less well.
where that versatility comes in handy is mid stream in a project when
you have all of your other machines set up for something specific and
need to stay set up for a while and you need to make that one dado or
whatever. takes but a few minutes to task the RAS and you're back in
biz.
the rest of the time just use it for cutoff. that's one of the things
it does well.
I don't have one yet. there are a lot of things ahead of it on the
list.
Bridger
Even better is the Mr. Sawdust Book, "How To Master The Radial Saw"
http://mrsawdust.com/
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
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"Doug Winterburn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 06:44:01 -0800, Basspro* wrote:
>
> > How in the world do you rip plywood with the RAS? It's arm only moves
> > about 2 feet. Do you just fix the unit in place then move the plywood
> > itself through the blade? I'm confused on this one, sorry, but I'm new
> > to woodworking and especially the RAS.
>
> Go immediately to the following site and buy and download this book:
>
>
http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes/ProductDetail.asp?ProdID=3&nPrdImageID=
&CatID=3
>
> -Doug
>
A troll I hope
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Wilson Lamb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Many good reasons are given. I wouldn't be without my RAS. It's the
thing
> for big work.
>
> Best of all is to make a long table for ripping big stuff. I've ripped
20'
> roughcut 2X framing on mine. I don't think I could possibly do that on
the
> TS. Crosscuts on big stock are much easier too, because you can get the
> stock all set up and then pull the carriage across...no binding!
>
> The moving head is great for anything big or tricky. I recnetly had to
take
> 15 degree cuts on the ends of some 2X4, for sawhorse legs. I just marked
> the 15 deg line on the table, held the ends against the fence, and
> cut...very fast and all 8 are fine.
>
> Taking an 8' rip off a piece of sheet stock is a snap. Just keep it on
the
> fence and push!
>
> The RAS certaiinly falls down for precision work, because the locks,
> especially the column lock that holds the miter angle, can be sloppy.
>
> Ripping short stock can be a problem, because you have to get close to the
> blade to push it through...not a good situation.
>
> Wilson
>
>
> "Basspro*" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
> > compound mitre saw? A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
> > an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price but I'm just not sure if having
> > it is worth the cost and the extra space that it will take up in my
> > garage/workshop. Can I mount it to my workbench or do I need it more
> > mobile than that? Also what are its capabilities/advantages over the
> > table saw or compound mitre saw? Thanks for the help.
>
>
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] (Basspro*) wrote:
>Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
>compound mitre saw?
Probably not.
> A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
>an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price but I'm just not sure if having
>it is worth the cost and the extra space that it will take up in my
>garage/workshop. Can I mount it to my workbench or do I need it more
>mobile than that?
I have mine on a mobile base, but that's mostly so I can clean behind it more
easily. I rarely move it for any other reason.
> Also what are its capabilities/advantages over the
>table saw or compound mitre saw? Thanks for the help.
Compound miter saw can't make rip cuts, radial arm saw can -- but a table saw
does a better and safer job. Since you already have a table saw, this is not a
reason to buy a radial arm saw.
Most radial arm saws will accomodate a dado set; I believe that most compound
miter saws will not. However -- unless the radial arm saw's table is dead flat
*and* dead parallel to the saw carriage, you can't get dados of a uniform
depth. This operation is better done with a table saw or a router.
It's easier to crosscut long or heavy boards with a compound miter saw
or a radial arm saw than with a table saw, because the board remains
stationary. The only advantage I can see in this respect to a RAS over a CMS
is that the RAS is likely to have a greater width capacity for crosscuts,
greater even than a sliding CMS. On the other hand, it's a very rare event for
me to *need* that extra capacity.
Big *dis*advantage to the RAS is all the space they take up. I bought mine
more than twenty years ago, long before I ever saw a CMS. If I had neither one
right now, I would buy a sliding CMS in preference to a RAS to save space.
Particularly in your case, I think the space issue argues against buying the
RAS: the advantages you gain from it, if any, could hardly outweigh the
sacrifice of dedicating part of your workbench surface to a tool that you will
probably use only rarely.
--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
"Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > Not having read any other responses yet, I will say that a radio alarm
saw
> > has some very limited uses in a home shop. I don't have one and
probably
> > won't ever, but here's what I see they're useful for:
> >
>
> Nothing I like to see more then pronouncements from the mount by someone
who
> not only doesn't have the vaguest idea of what the hell they are talking
> about but proudly announce the fact.
>
> Bet you call Craftsman tools Crapsman too cause it makes you sound cool.
I spent several years using one. I found them to be as much use as I said.
I don't like them, and said so.
Was your response to my post relevant at all, or do you just like stirring
up shit?
Asshole.
Actually, if you look up the statistics related to the Emerson/Sears recall
of a couple of years ago, the only ones that I know for sure exist, you will
find that the ratio of ALL reported injuries to the millions, somewhere
around 3 million if I remember correctly, of units sold it is 00.08% or was
it 00.8%. In either case it is an extremely small almost meaningless number.
Probably well under that of such things as lawn mowers and weed whackers..
Used properly and for it's intended purpose, though this can be said about
any tool, the actual mechanism is far safer then that of a table saw. On a
table saw one has to move their hands and stock past a cutting blade. On the
RAS the blade moves and, unless ones head is firmly placed up one's ass, the
hands and stock are kept firmly in one place well away from the sharp
stuff..
To adjudge one tool spinning a sharp instrument at 3k + RPM safer then
another is a highly dangerous conclusion to make. Actually it is a horse
pucky assumption. BOTH tools need equal amounts of respect, care, and
attention to detail and even then they are both dangerous.
I've owned one for almost 30 years and have had a far less number of scary
incidents with it then with a table saw.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
<gabriel> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > maintained. With the required amount of caution it is no more
> > dangerous than either the Miter Saw or the Table Saw. Like most large
> > stationary tools it can hurt you severely if you use it carelessly.
>
> I would not want to mislead people reading this and imply that the
numerous
> accounts of getting hurt with a radial arm saw are because the person
> getting hurt was dumb or made a glaring mistake. Reading all the accounts
> of RAS accidents, one gets the feeling that a RAS:
>
> 1) Takes much more experience to use properly than any other saw,
>
> 2) Is MUCH less forgiving than any other type of saw. A small error while
> cutting on a TS may scare the %^$%^ out of you, but most probably not do
> much harm. An error of the same magnitude while using a RAS may injure
you
> greatly.
>
> 3) Has many more things that could go wrong under regular use. There are
> lots of things to adjust and tune. A badly tuned RAS will probably injure
> you, whereas a badly runed TS will most probably produce a lousy cut on
the
> wood. A badly tuned miter saw will probably just produce a bvad cut as
> well.
>
> Do you agree or not?
>
> I bring this up because perfectly reasonable and safe people have gotten
> badly injured while using RAS saws. The injuries did not occur because
they
> were drunk, inept, or stupid, the injuries occurred because the RAS was
not
> forgiving enough of a machine.
>
>
I think the RAS and the bandsaw are the most used powertools in my shop.
Een though the ras is a 60s era craftsman, it is easily adjusted to
square. There is an 10x10 DC box right behind the blade, it makes no
mess. Much easier to check/adjust than my TS. Sure, I can do everything
mentioned on the TS and CMS - but I wouldn't want to. Fire up the DC and
cut away.
On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 08:32:47 -0800, Basspro* wrote:
> Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
> compound mitre saw? A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
> an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price but I'm just not sure if having
> it is worth the cost and the extra space that it will take up in my
> garage/workshop. Can I mount it to my workbench or do I need it more
> mobile than that? Also what are its capabilities/advantages over the
> table saw or compound mitre saw? Thanks for the help.
The one thing that I wish I had a RAS for is for doing particularly wide
half-laps or dado cuts. These can be done on the table saw, but if you add
angles into the picture it becomes a pretty annoying task, IMO. Still, I
doubt I'd ever bother to get a RAS just for that.
Mike
"Basspro*" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
> compound mitre saw? A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
> an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price but I'm just not sure if having
> it is worth the cost and the extra space that it will take up in my
> garage/workshop. Can I mount it to my workbench or do I need it more
> mobile than that? Also what are its capabilities/advantages over the
> table saw or compound mitre saw? Thanks for the help.
IF this is truly "an old DeWalt", the following is untrue.
Wilson Lamb" <[email protected]> wrote:
>The RAS certaiinly falls down for precision work, because the locks,
>especially the column lock that holds the miter angle, can be sloppy.
This reminds me of back in the 60's (?) when a RAS was touted as a
do-all machine. They sold planing attachments as well as drill press,
horizonal boring, sanding, etc.. My father bought a top-of-the-line
DeWalt (NOT B&D) and was somewhat disappointed. I never bought one and
don't remember ever needing one. I use my miter saw most of the time.
Maybe if I was doing huge ripping projects where the long bed would be
nice (if you happened to have set it up that way). Otherwise, I bought
a Milwaukee miter saw and a Delta Contractors saw and was very happy.
Now I have a Unisaw and am even happier! I will say that the tendency
of a RAS to "climb" or "walk" on a work piece is very disquieting when
it accidently comes in contact with a piece of wood.
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 11:28:16 -0500, "Mike G"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Actually yes it was. Had you even hinted that your opinion was based on any
>kind of real knowledge of the tool rather then being a "me too" post voting
>for the party line I would not have felt compelled to post as I did.
>
>There are all to many "me too" posts, with no qualifying information
>included, going around passing out old wives tales. If someone is going to
>post an opinion that has any meaning one should also post what that opinion
>was based on.
>
>In this case my opinion was based on information not given.
> Basspro* wrote:
>> How in the world do you rip plywood with the RAS?
> Doug Winterburn wrote:
> You rotate the motor 90 degrees counterclockwise for an outrip or 90
> degrees clockwise for an inrip. .....
Generally the fence on a RAS is set to the front of the saw.
This makes it easier to use for most operations. A few more
inches of rip capacity can be gained by setting the fence to
the base/ column.
The length of fence is limited only by the length of
straight lumber you can find or make. Same as a table saw.
Except the fence doesn't necessarily extend into the work
area, or hang off another fence.
--
Mark
N.E. Ohio
Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart.
(S. Clemens, A.K.A. Mark Twain)
When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure
ends the suspense. (Gaz, r.moto)
Yes, very dangerous, in fact, far too dangerous to even consider shipping
it. With the interest of safety in mind, I will come over there and pick it
up myself. Is tomorrow ok?
--
If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving
"J.S. McAuley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:BC288C14.1D20A%[email protected]...
> Mike,
> Radial arm saws are pretty much obsolete these days, and an old unit like
> that dewalt is probably downright dangerous since it was manufactured
before
> the cpsc mandated better guards and warning labels. Yep I really don't
think
> you should risk putting that in your shop. Just tell your friend to ship
the
> saw to me. I will know what to do with it. In the interest of safety i'll
> even split the cost of shipping.
> Scott.
>
> > From: [email protected] (Basspro*)
> > Organization: http://groups.google.com
> > Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
> > Date: 12 Jan 2004 08:32:47 -0800
> > Subject: Radial Arm Saw? What can they do that a Mitre and Table saw
can't.
> >
> > Do I need a Radial Arm Saw when I already have a Table saw and a
> > compound mitre saw? A friend is willing to sell me his used one (its
> > an old DeWalt) for a reasonable price but I'm just not sure if having
> > it is worth the cost and the extra space that it will take up in my
> > garage/workshop. Can I mount it to my workbench or do I need it more
> > mobile than that? Also what are its capabilities/advantages over the
> > table saw or compound mitre saw? Thanks for the help.
>