How deep? What size hole?
Dave
"Ira Mellon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Could someone tell me how to drill a hole perpendicular to(and in the
> center of)the END of a 1" diam., 4 ft long dowel?
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Assuming you have a drill press, drill a 1inch hole perpendicular thru
a price of fairly thick wood (scrap 2x4), put dowel thru hole, (raise
drill press table to let the dowel clear the base/floor and drill to a
accurate center mark
John
On Thu, 04 Mar 2004 16:44:37 GMT, B a r r y
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 4 Mar 2004 06:25:11 -0800, [email protected] (Ira Mellon)
>wrote:
>
>>Could someone tell me how to drill a hole perpendicular to(and in the
>>center of)the END of a 1" diam., 4 ft long dowel?
>
>Find the center, mount the dowel in a vise, and drill it with a drill
>press. bench top drill presses will need to be swung to the side,
>hand held drills would benefit from a guide block to keep the bit at
>90 degrees to the end face.
>
>A guide block is simply a thick piece of scrap wood or MDF with a hole
>through it..
>
>Barry
John Crea wrote:
>>>Could someone tell me how to drill a hole perpendicular to(and in the
>>>center of)the END of a 1" diam., 4 ft long dowel?
> Assuming you have a drill press, drill a 1inch hole perpendicular thru
> a price of fairly thick wood (scrap 2x4), put dowel thru hole, (raise
> drill press table to let the dowel clear the base/floor and drill to a
> accurate center mark
That could work pretty well if you can get the table up without changing
anything. On my DP, that's a dubious proposition. It tends to waddle from
side to side a little as I crank it up.
Here's what I did in a similar situation. I had to drill really precise
holes in the dead center of 4" dowels. A little easier goal than the OP's
problem, but similar.
So what I did was bore a hole in a suitable piece of hardwood scrap with a
Forstner bit, stopping shy of going through the piece. (The OP would want
a 1" bit here.) Then I left the piece in the vise and chucked up a
suitable bit for the axle hole. I used the dimple from the Forstner to
re-center the new bit after raising the table, then I bored the rest of the
way through. This was my drill guide.
In my case, I clamped the 4" dowels in my Grizzly cross sliding vise with
the prismatic jaw installed, then put the drill guide on top of the dowel,
lined it up, and drilled the holes. The OP's problem is a little more
complicated. Maybe a vise with prismatic jaws and the table tilted 90
degrees to keep the support up near the business end of the thing. That or
maybe rig up some support blocks to wrap around the column and hold the
dowel at just the right distance. (Maybe cut big holes with a fly cutter,
then cut one end off and screw them back together or something. These
would be hard to make well, but might do the trick if the OP is as averse
as I am to screwing with the tilt setting on his DP.)
Assuming he has a floor model drill press, of course. Hrm... I guess the
only alternative would be to make the drill guide on a benchtop, and then
do the actual drilling by hand. With a really thick drill guide that might
deliver acceptable results, depending on the level of precision required.
I'd say this whole propsition is pretty well impossible to contemplate with
no drill press at all.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
On 4 Mar 2004 06:25:11 -0800, [email protected] (Ira Mellon)
wrote:
>Could someone tell me how to drill a hole perpendicular to(and in the
>center of)the END of a 1" diam., 4 ft long dowel?
Find the center, mount the dowel in a vise, and drill it with a drill
press. bench top drill presses will need to be swung to the side,
hand held drills would benefit from a guide block to keep the bit at
90 degrees to the end face.
A guide block is simply a thick piece of scrap wood or MDF with a hole
through it..
Barry