Hi all, my current project is building a cherry cradle based upon the
http://store.yahoo.com/plansnow/cradle.html pattern.
To cut the curves, I've made templates using MDF and I'm using the 2" depth,
1/2" diameter, 1/2" shank laminate flush trimming bit from Lee Valley. Most
of the pieces are just under 1" thick. During the routing process, when I
go from end grain to straight grain, I'm getting some serious chipout. Two
questions. First, is my choice of router bits appropriate? Secondly,
should I climb cut these areas to reduce the chipout?
Any other ideas would be appreciated.
Regards,
Chris Corbett
Chris says:>Hi all, my current project is building a cherry cradle based upon
the
>http://store.yahoo.com/plansnow/cradle.html pattern.
>
>To cut the curves, I've made templates using MDF and I'm using the 2" depth,
>1/2" diameter, 1/2" shank laminate flush trimming bit from Lee Valley. Most
>of the pieces are just under 1" thick. During the routing process, when I
>go from end grain to straight grain, I'm getting some serious chipout. Two
>questions. First, is my choice of router bits appropriate? Secondly,
>should I climb cut these areas to reduce the chipout?
>
>Any other ideas would be appreciated.
>
>Regards,
>Chris Corbett
>
>
I've had luck by inverting the workpiece, and attaching the template to the
other side when the grain presents a problem.That, or turn the whole thing
over, and use a bit with a bearing on the bottom. Tom
Someday, it'll all be over....
I found a solution that works for me. I bought a spiral pattern bit. It
cost much more than the regular flush trimming bit. But it caused much less
chipout. It caused less burning of the cherry as well. Now, I just have to
figure out how to glue the sawdust back together for wood that I ruined. :)
Chris
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
message news:[email protected]...
> Hi all, my current project is building a cherry cradle based upon the
> http://store.yahoo.com/plansnow/cradle.html pattern.
>
> To cut the curves, I've made templates using MDF and I'm using the 2"
depth,
> 1/2" diameter, 1/2" shank laminate flush trimming bit from Lee Valley.
Most
> of the pieces are just under 1" thick. During the routing process, when I
> go from end grain to straight grain, I'm getting some serious chipout.
Two
> questions. First, is my choice of router bits appropriate? Secondly,
> should I climb cut these areas to reduce the chipout?
>
> Any other ideas would be appreciated.
>
> Regards,
> Chris Corbett
>
>
Chris Corbett
>First, is my choice of router bits appropriate?
It would seem to be a good choice. By the way, how sharp is
the bit?
>Secondly, should I climb cut these areas to reduce the chipout?
Give it a try on some scrap but be warned, you will/may have
some loss of control, i.e., hold on tight.
>Any other ideas would be appreciated.
Band saw as close to the line as possible then rout off
what's left. The less you rout the less your router will
grab the grain.
Oh, and you will have to sand after routing. No getting
away from it.
UA100
Get the June issue of FWW. There is an article in there about template
routing and covers exactly what you're asking.
Bob S.
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
message news:[email protected]...
> Hi all, my current project is building a cherry cradle based upon the
> http://store.yahoo.com/plansnow/cradle.html pattern.
>
> To cut the curves, I've made templates using MDF and I'm using the 2"
depth,
> 1/2" diameter, 1/2" shank laminate flush trimming bit from Lee Valley.
Most
> of the pieces are just under 1" thick. During the routing process, when I
> go from end grain to straight grain, I'm getting some serious chipout.
Two
> questions. First, is my choice of router bits appropriate? Secondly,
> should I climb cut these areas to reduce the chipout?
>
> Any other ideas would be appreciated.
>
> Regards,
> Chris Corbett
>
>