Bob,
If you've got a blade honed at 20 degrees, you should be able to set the
guide to 25 degrees and set the blade in with the bevel side up. Raise the
blade in the guide and the flat side of the blade should be 5 degrees off
the bottom.
Denny
Does anyone know how I can use the Veritas honing jig and bevel guide
to put a 5 degree back bevel on my blade (which is honed at 20
degrees)? No matter how hard I try to figure it out, I just dont have
the head for geometry. Is it even possible using these tools or is
there some other way?
Thanks
Bob
>
> I have seen the description for a 3/32" piece of wood placed 2" from
> front of blade as a guide. I tried this last night using tape to hold
> it in place. The tape worked terribly, but it did put a 5 degree bevel
> on the blade. Now if I could figure out a better way of afixing the
> blade to the jig... Im going to work on this because I will need to do
> this frequesntly on my block plane.
You might try double sided carpet tape (not sure if that's what you
used or not). Stuff's pretty sticky. I think that's what I used the
last time I back beveled my block plane's blade.
Cheers,
cc
>
> Just curious, why a back bevel on a block plane?
On a standard block plane, by putting a back bevel on it, you
effectively lower it's cutting angle. A standard 25 degree bevel on
a standard block plane produces a 45 degree cutting angle (voila, a
small smoother!). By putting a 10 degree back bevel on it, you
effectively reduce this to 35 degrees.
Cheers,
cc
My terminology isn't quite correct, nor my math. I dug out my
"Complete Guide to Sharpening" by Leonard Lee. Here's what he has to
say about it:
"You can easily grind and hone a 15 degree bevel on the blade and then
put a 10 degree back bevel on the face of the blade (refers to his
diagram on P. 84). This would still leave you with a 25 degree
included angle, but you would now have reduced your cutting angle from
45 degrees to 35 degrees. You are still left with a 10 degree relief
angle, which is perfectly adequate for block-plane use. Possibly
more significant, you have sharpened the blade of your standard block
plane in a manner that will give you a lower cutting angle than
someone who sharpens a low-angle block plane in a standard fashion (12
degrees bed angle plus 25 degree bevel, a total of 37 degrees)."
I highly recommend this book.
Cheers,
cc
In article <[email protected]>,
Bob <[email protected]> wrote:
<...snipped...>
>I have seen the description for a 3/32" piece of wood placed 2" from
>front of blade as a guide. I tried this last night using tape to hold
>it in place. The tape worked terribly, but it did put a 5 degree bevel
>on the blade. Now if I could figure out a better way of afixing the
>blade to the jig... Im going to work on this because I will need to do
>this frequesntly on my block plane.
>
>bob
<...snipped...>
Just curious, why a back bevel on a block plane?
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
Thanks for all the answers. Ive since realized that the poster who
said it cant be done in the normal fashion with the Veritas jig was
right. The problem is that the jig can't go far enough back on the
blade to lower it enough. Otherwise, I could use the 25 degree slot
(for my primary 20 blade) in the bevel guide.
I have seen the description for a 3/32" piece of wood placed 2" from
front of blade as a guide. I tried this last night using tape to hold
it in place. The tape worked terribly, but it did put a 5 degree bevel
on the blade. Now if I could figure out a better way of afixing the
blade to the jig... Im going to work on this because I will need to do
this frequesntly on my block plane.
bob
"Denny" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Bob,
> If you've got a blade honed at 20 degrees, you should be able to set the
> guide to 25 degrees and set the blade in with the bevel side up. Raise the
> blade in the guide and the flat side of the blade should be 5 degrees off
> the bottom.
> Denny
>
>
> Does anyone know how I can use the Veritas honing jig and bevel guide
> to put a 5 degree back bevel on my blade (which is honed at 20
> degrees)? No matter how hard I try to figure it out, I just dont have
> the head for geometry. Is it even possible using these tools or is
> there some other way?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob
I see said the blind man! I was under the impression from his book that by
combining the two, the angle is effectively lowered.
I'm still trying to sort out the geometries of plane blades!
cc
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In this case, the back bevel has nothing to do with the cutting angle. It
is
> the 15 degree sharpening angle that is lowering the cutting angle. The
back
> bevel is used simply to give the edge strength.
>
> "James Cubby Culbertson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > My terminology isn't quite correct, nor my math. I dug out my
> > "Complete Guide to Sharpening" by Leonard Lee. Here's what he has to
> > say about it:
> >
> > "You can easily grind and hone a 15 degree bevel on the blade and then
> > put a 10 degree back bevel on the face of the blade (refers to his
> > diagram on P. 84). This would still leave you with a 25 degree
> > included angle, but you would now have reduced your cutting angle from
> > 45 degrees to 35 degrees. You are still left with a 10 degree relief
> > angle, which is perfectly adequate for block-plane use. Possibly
> > more significant, you have sharpened the blade of your standard block
> > plane in a manner that will give you a lower cutting angle than
> > someone who sharpens a low-angle block plane in a standard fashion (12
> > degrees bed angle plus 25 degree bevel, a total of 37 degrees)."
> >
> > I highly recommend this book.
> > Cheers,
> > cc
>
>
It is as you see it. Decreasing the clearence makes for a stronger edge.
"Lawrence Wasserman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:xYdfc.6> I don't see this the same way. To me, it appears that the
cutting
> angle of a normal bevel-up block plane will always be the sum of the
> bed angle plus the bevel angle. Putting a back bevel on a block plane
> blade would decrease the clearance angle. I don't see how this would
> be useful, maybe there is some circumstance where it would be.
>
> Or does back bevel mean something different? I think of a "back bevel"
> as a short bevel on the "back" of the iron, i.e. the side that is
> normally flat.
>
>
> --
>
> Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
> [email protected]
>
In this case, the back bevel has nothing to do with the cutting angle. It is
the 15 degree sharpening angle that is lowering the cutting angle. The back
bevel is used simply to give the edge strength.
"James Cubby Culbertson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My terminology isn't quite correct, nor my math. I dug out my
> "Complete Guide to Sharpening" by Leonard Lee. Here's what he has to
> say about it:
>
> "You can easily grind and hone a 15 degree bevel on the blade and then
> put a 10 degree back bevel on the face of the blade (refers to his
> diagram on P. 84). This would still leave you with a 25 degree
> included angle, but you would now have reduced your cutting angle from
> 45 degrees to 35 degrees. You are still left with a 10 degree relief
> angle, which is perfectly adequate for block-plane use. Possibly
> more significant, you have sharpened the blade of your standard block
> plane in a manner that will give you a lower cutting angle than
> someone who sharpens a low-angle block plane in a standard fashion (12
> degrees bed angle plus 25 degree bevel, a total of 37 degrees)."
>
> I highly recommend this book.
> Cheers,
> cc
On 13 Apr 2004 19:04:17 -0700, [email protected] (James Cubby
Culbertson) wrote:
>>
>> Just curious, why a back bevel on a block plane?
>
>On a standard block plane, by putting a back bevel on it, you
>effectively lower it's cutting angle. A standard 25 degree bevel on
>a standard block plane produces a 45 degree cutting angle (voila, a
>small smoother!). By putting a 10 degree back bevel on it, you
>effectively reduce this to 35 degrees.
>Cheers,
>cc
Not exactly. To get 35 degree w/ 20 degree ramp your primary bevel
would have to be 15 degree as block planes are bevel up. The back
bevel is used often with low angle primary bevels to A) strengthen the
edge and B) to increase the clearance angle.
No.
"James Cubby Culbertson" <[email protected]> wrote in message > On a
standard block plane, by putting a back bevel on it, you
> effectively lower it's cutting angle. A standard 25 degree bevel on
> a standard block plane produces a 45 degree cutting angle (voila, a
> small smoother!). By putting a 10 degree back bevel on it, you
> effectively reduce this to 35 degrees.
> Cheers,
> cc
In article <[email protected]>,
James Cubby Culbertson <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> Just curious, why a back bevel on a block plane?
>
>On a standard block plane, by putting a back bevel on it, you
>effectively lower it's cutting angle. A standard 25 degree bevel on
>a standard block plane produces a 45 degree cutting angle (voila, a
>small smoother!). By putting a 10 degree back bevel on it, you
>effectively reduce this to 35 degrees.
>Cheers,
>cc
I don't see this the same way. To me, it appears that the cutting
angle of a normal bevel-up block plane will always be the sum of the
bed angle plus the bevel angle. Putting a back bevel on a block plane
blade would decrease the clearance angle. I don't see how this would
be useful, maybe there is some circumstance where it would be.
Or does back bevel mean something different? I think of a "back bevel"
as a short bevel on the "back" of the iron, i.e. the side that is
normally flat.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]