Need to make a decision on a dedicated table router. You still
satisfied with the Hitachi M12V?
Iirc, you have a couple of them, don't you?
Thanks,
Michael
The above posted to LRod instead of emailed for the express purpose of
soliciting opinions from anyone else not named LRod, but who always
read <PING> posts not addressed to them anyway, just like I do.
C'mon, you know you do, go 'head an' admit it. Yer hooked. :)
On 11 Feb 2004 12:15:36 -0800, [email protected] (Dick Durbin) wrote:
>Michael Baglio <mbaglio<NOSPAM>@nc.rr.com> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>> Need to make a decision on a dedicated table router. You still
>> satisfied with the Hitachi M12V?
>
>Michael, I'm not LRod but....
>
>I have been using an M12V in a table for several years and can not
>imagine a better router for that use. When you get ready to set it
>up, check out http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-jr6.htm There are
>several tips there that will help you get the most out of the Hitachi.
Thanks, Dick. You know the only thing wrong with that particular
woodshopdemos page is that it doesn't have Beth in it anywhere. ;>
(Robin who?!?) Beth rocks.
And apparently so does this router. Thanks to all for the info.
Michael
LRod wrote:
> On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 02:13:42 GMT, Steve Turner
> <[email protected]> wrote:
<snip>
>>A decent router I'm sure, but it has the same problem as my Makita 3612C in
>>that the opening in the base is not very large, and many of the larger diameter
>>bits (like horizontal raised-panel cutters) will not pass through the opening.
>> I'm curious as to how people have worked around this problem.
>
>
> I've never understood the need to retract a larg bit through this
> hole. In the Rosendahl method, one takes the router out of the table
> and attacks the collett nut from there, so the bit is going to come
> out of the top of the router and there is plenty of access to the nut.
>
> If the issue is depth of cut adjustment, the correct way to make
> multiple passes with a panel raising cutter is to change the position
> of the fence, not the height of the cutter. In fact, if you have a
> back cutter on your bit, it's the ONLY way.
>
> Consequently, the size of the hole in the base doesn't matter.
Hmm, I've never used any raised-panel bits with back cutters before; I've
always just used the panel cutter itself to make the back cuts. Two reasons,
mainly. One, I been somewhat wary of how they would behave if I were to feed a
slightly warped panel in concert with a failure to keep the panel flat using
downward pressure. And two, I doubt that you'd want to used a back-cutter bit
when doing arched panels :-)
But I see your point. Using the fence to control multiple passes makes more
sense than raising the height of the bit, if your workpiece allows it. I'll
try that next time I do regular raised panels.
--
To reply, change the chemical designation to its common name.
On Tue, 10 Feb 2004 22:56:22 GMT, "Vic Baron" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I've had my M12V in my router table for several years. It's never failed to
>do what I want without problems. I'd heartily recommend it. If you're
>putting it in a table, definitely get an adjustment handle add-on, or make
>one as I did. Makes it much easier to raise and lower this beast.
Can you post here how you make yours?
I have been thinking of make one myself for sometime.
Thanks
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Michael Baglio <mbaglio<NOSPAM>@nc.rr.com> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Need to make a decision on a dedicated table router. You still
> satisfied with the Hitachi M12V?
Michael, I'm not LRod but....
I have been using an M12V in a table for several years and can not
imagine a better router for that use. When you get ready to set it
up, check out http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-jr6.htm There are
several tips there that will help you get the most out of the Hitachi.
Dick Durbin
"Vic Baron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've had my M12V in my router table for several years. It's never failed
to
> do what I want without problems. I'd heartily recommend it. If you're
> putting it in a table, definitely get an adjustment handle add-on, or make
> one as I did. Makes it much easier to raise and lower this beast.
Vic, did you mean to day that "It" has never failed to do what I want "and"
with out problems?
"Michael Baglio @nc.rr.com>" <mbaglio<NOSPAM> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Need to make a decision on a dedicated table router. You still
> satisfied with the Hitachi M12V?
>
> Iirc, you have a couple of them, don't you?
>
> Thanks,
> Michael
>
> The above posted to LRod instead of emailed for the express purpose of
> soliciting opinions from anyone else not named LRod, but who always
> read <PING> posts not addressed to them anyway, just like I do.
> C'mon, you know you do, go 'head an' admit it. Yer hooked. :)
Never heard of a <PING>
Anyhow, American Woodworker has a review of 15a router for table use this
month.
On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 04:43:29 +0000, LRod <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Tue, 10 Feb 2004 21:45:02 GMT, Michael Baglio
><mbaglio<NOSPAM>@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>>
>>Need to make a decision on a dedicated table router. You still
>>satisfied with the Hitachi M12V?
>>Iirc, you have a couple of them, don't you?
>
>I do. I still think it's the best table router.
>Thanks for asking.
Cool. I'm jazzed about the power but since they don't get a great
deal of play here, I was concerned that there might be some unspoken
downside. You know, along the lines of "Yeah, 3-1/4 HP is great, but
the bushings wear out in a week and the all the smoke leaks out after
a month or so..." ;>
But, I'll pick one up now. Thanks again.
Michael
Who occasionally but not so fondly remembers when he kinda sorta
abused the hell out of a demitasse-cup-with-outstretched-pinky 3/8ths
Makita corded while drilling wiring holes in studs with a 1-inch
BigAzz <notTM> paddle bit through, like, dozens of studs and let all
the smoke out of the drill.
OBWW- Machinery tip: Smoke should always stay inside the motor.
Sh*t don't run good if ya let the smoke out.
On Tue, 10 Feb 2004 21:45:02 GMT, Michael Baglio
<mbaglio<NOSPAM>@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
>Need to make a decision on a dedicated table router. You still
>satisfied with the Hitachi M12V?
>
>Iirc, you have a couple of them, don't you?
I do. I still think it's the best table router. There are other
routers out there that are robust and reliable, but I think the
Hitachi works best at my style of table routing, which is much the
same as practiced by Bob Rosendahl and his son on The Router Workshop.
Thanks for asking.
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
Oh yeah.... look here....
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-jr6.htm
Steve Turner wrote:
> A decent router I'm sure, but it has the same problem as my Makita 3612C
> in that the opening in the base is not very large, and many of the
> larger diameter bits (like horizontal raised-panel cutters) will not
> pass through the opening. I'm curious as to how people have worked
> around this problem.
>
On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 02:13:42 GMT, Steve Turner
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Vic Baron wrote:
>
>> I've had my M12V in my router table for several years. It's never failed to
>> do what I want without problems. I'd heartily recommend it. If you're
>> putting it in a table, definitely get an adjustment handle add-on, or make
>> one as I did. Makes it much easier to raise and lower this beast.
>
>A decent router I'm sure, but it has the same problem as my Makita 3612C in
>that the opening in the base is not very large, and many of the larger diameter
>bits (like horizontal raised-panel cutters) will not pass through the opening.
> I'm curious as to how people have worked around this problem.
I've never understood the need to retract a larg bit through this
hole. In the Rosendahl method, one takes the router out of the table
and attacks the collett nut from there, so the bit is going to come
out of the top of the router and there is plenty of access to the nut.
If the issue is depth of cut adjustment, the correct way to make
multiple passes with a panel raising cutter is to change the position
of the fence, not the height of the cutter. In fact, if you have a
back cutter on your bit, it's the ONLY way.
Consequently, the size of the hole in the base doesn't matter.
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 02:13:42 GMT, Steve Turner
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Vic Baron wrote:
>
>> I've had my M12V in my router table for several years. It's never failed to
>> do what I want without problems. I'd heartily recommend it. If you're
>> putting it in a table, definitely get an adjustment handle add-on, or make
>> one as I did. Makes it much easier to raise and lower this beast.
>
>A decent router I'm sure, but it has the same problem as my Makita 3612C in
>that the opening in the base is not very large, and many of the larger diameter
>bits (like horizontal raised-panel cutters) will not pass through the opening.
> I'm curious as to how people have worked around this problem.
i got around it by cutting the ears off. since it stays in the table
and i dont use it with a collet they were not nessasary.
skeez
I've had my M12V in my router table for several years. It's never failed to
do what I want without problems. I'd heartily recommend it. If you're
putting it in a table, definitely get an adjustment handle add-on, or make
one as I did. Makes it much easier to raise and lower this beast.
HTH,
Vic
"Michael Baglio @nc.rr.com>" <mbaglio<NOSPAM> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Need to make a decision on a dedicated table router. You still
> satisfied with the Hitachi M12V?
>
> Iirc, you have a couple of them, don't you?
>
> Thanks,
> Michael
>
> The above posted to LRod instead of emailed for the express purpose of
> soliciting opinions from anyone else not named LRod, but who always
> read <PING> posts not addressed to them anyway, just like I do.
> C'mon, you know you do, go 'head an' admit it. Yer hooked. :)
---
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Vic Baron wrote:
> I've had my M12V in my router table for several years. It's never failed to
> do what I want without problems. I'd heartily recommend it. If you're
> putting it in a table, definitely get an adjustment handle add-on, or make
> one as I did. Makes it much easier to raise and lower this beast.
A decent router I'm sure, but it has the same problem as my Makita 3612C in
that the opening in the base is not very large, and many of the larger diameter
bits (like horizontal raised-panel cutters) will not pass through the opening.
I'm curious as to how people have worked around this problem.
--
To reply, change the chemical designation to its common name.
I certainly *hope* it's a good machine, as I just bought one to replace the
itty-bitty Ryobi that's in the table (the Ryobi has done everything i've
asked it to without complaining, but I don't feel like running hundreds of
feet of MDF for molding through it.... besides, I needed an excuse to get a
2nd router!)
--randy
"Michael Baglio @nc.rr.com>" <mbaglio<NOSPAM> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Need to make a decision on a dedicated table router. You still
> satisfied with the Hitachi M12V?
>
> Iirc, you have a couple of them, don't you?
>
> Thanks,
> Michael
>
> The above posted to LRod instead of emailed for the express purpose of
> soliciting opinions from anyone else not named LRod, but who always
> read <PING> posts not addressed to them anyway, just like I do.
> C'mon, you know you do, go 'head an' admit it. Yer hooked. :)
>