x-no-archive:yes
What is a simple way I can ensure one side of my rough cut wood is
square and striaght? (I currently dont hace a jointer.) Would a piece
of angle iron nailed to the board to use as a straight edge work? I saw
in a woodworkign magaizine something that looked like two small pieces
of angle iron with a bolt running through it but I could not see what
was on the bottom.
This wood is not badly crooked, it almost is straight but with a square
on it you can see in places 1/16 inch or so gaps. SOme places a little
more. The wood right now to a little over 1 inch thick.
Thanks for your help!
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >x-no-archive:yes
> >
> >What is a simple way I can ensure one side of my rough cut wood is
> >square and striaght? (I currently dont hace a jointer.)
>
> ??·
> you run it through a table saw. Cutting crooked wood on a table saw is
just
> begging for a kickback.
>
That's not true at all Doug. Fixing a guide to the board such that it
provides a good straight surface to ride the fence is a perfectly safe and
reliable method of ripping a crooked board.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> In article <[email protected]>,
> >"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> >x-no-archive:yes
> >> >
> >> >What is a simple way I can ensure one side of my rough cut wood is
> >> >square and striaght? (I currently dont hace a jointer.)
> >>
> >> ??·
> >> you run it through a table saw. Cutting crooked wood on a table saw is
> >just
> >> begging for a kickback.
> >>
> >
> >That's not true at all Doug. Fixing a guide to the board such that it
> >provides a good straight surface to ride the fence is a perfectly safe
and
> >reliable method of ripping a crooked board.
>
> As long as you *also* have some method of holding it flat so that it
doesn't
> rock, you're right. Easier to joint the wood, though, or just buy it S4S
in
> the first place.
>
He said crooked and described a deviation along the saw cut line. That's
quite different from a twist which is what you are describing as a potential
problem.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
i do this all the time - i take the factory edge of a piece of plywood,
about 8-10" wide (my long-board straight-lining jig), and just tack it
the edge of the crooked piece with screws. use the plywood to reference
the fence, and you get a straight edge on the crooked board. very
simple, and fast.
for shorter boards, i have a small wooden jig with two clamps that i use
to simply hold the piece and reference the straight edge of the jig
against the fence. nothing complicated, works great.
--- dz
stryped wrote:
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> What is a simple way I can ensure one side of my rough cut wood is
> square and striaght? (I currently dont hace a jointer.) Would a piece
> of angle iron nailed to the board to use as a straight edge work? I saw
> in a woodworkign magaizine something that looked like two small pieces
> of angle iron with a bolt running through it but I could not see what
> was on the bottom.
>
> This wood is not badly crooked, it almost is straight but with a square
> on it you can see in places 1/16 inch or so gaps. SOme places a little
> more. The wood right now to a little over 1 inch thick.
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> What is a simple way I can ensure one side of my rough cut wood is
> square and striaght? (I currently dont hace a jointer.) Would a piece
> of angle iron nailed to the board to use as a straight edge work? I saw
> in a woodworkign magaizine something that looked like two small pieces
> of angle iron with a bolt running through it but I could not see what
> was on the bottom.
>
> This wood is not badly crooked, it almost is straight but with a square
> on it you can see in places 1/16 inch or so gaps. SOme places a little
> more. The wood right now to a little over 1 inch thick.
>
All solutions demand something that holds the piece to be cut firmly to
itself and references positively to the saw. Clamping your piece to a board
which guides on the fence or in the miter groove are the most common
methods.
Snap a best-width line with chalk to find where to clamp. No sense nibbling
and fussing if you can make sure of a straight line first thing. I do that
cut on a bandsaw, usually, where freehand gets it close enough to work with.
Then I run the freehand edge on the fence, flop, then run the new edge to
get my glueable.
You can also take your edge and use a jointer fence on a shaper or router
table. Keep a good long fence in that, if you plan to make the rough cut,
shorter if you're making a cut on an already straightened edge.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > He said crooked and described a deviation along the saw cut line.
That's
> > quite different from a twist which is what you are describing as a
> > potential
> > problem.
>
>
> He also said rough cut wood and seldom is rough cut wood flat.
>
>
True. Point well taken. Since he didn't mention anything about it rocking
I didn't think of that as an issue. Maybe it wasn't an issue. Only the OP
knows for sure - or his hairdresser.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
In article <[email protected]>, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
>x-no-archive:yes
>
>What is a simple way I can ensure one side of my rough cut wood is
>square and striaght? (I currently dont hace a jointer.)
·
you run it through a table saw. Cutting crooked wood on a table saw is just
begging for a kickback.
So, to answer your question:
Buy a jointer. Or a jointer plane (honkin' big hand plane). Or buy your wood
already surfaced, not in the rough.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> What is a simple way I can ensure one side of my rough cut wood is
> square and striaght? (I currently dont hace a jointer.) Would a piece
> of angle iron nailed to the board to use as a straight edge work? I saw
> in a woodworkign magaizine something that looked like two small pieces
> of angle iron with a bolt running through it but I could not see what
> was on the bottom.
>
> This wood is not badly crooked, it almost is straight but with a square
> on it you can see in places 1/16 inch or so gaps. SOme places a little
> more. The wood right now to a little over 1 inch thick.
I am in the middle of doing this now.
First off, if your wood is still rough cut on all 4 sides and is not
perfectly flat you must first flatten the wood. If the wood is not flat and
you try to straight cut 1 edge the wood can rock and bind the blade
resulting in burning or worse, a kick back. Also if you are successful in
cutting straight 1 edge on a board that is not flat it will no longer have a
90 degree edge after you flatten the board.
So first you need to flatten the board on 1 side minimum. I have a plans
for a sled to run through a planer that will flatten a cupped or bowed
board.
Ripping straight a board after flattening 1 side becomes straight forward
and simple from there. I have a very simple sled for doing this. My sled
is a 12" wide piece of 3/4" plywood with 2 toggle clamps attached with
screws on both ends. The clamps can be unscrewed and moved to any location
on the plywood sled as needed to compensate for different length boards and
width boards.
Set your rip fence to 12" and lay the crooked edge board over the edge
closest to the blade and clamp it down. Move the clamps as needed. Run
the sled through the TS and cut the overhanging wood off. You have a
straight edge.
stryped (in [email protected])
said:
| What is a simple way I can ensure one side of my rough cut wood is
| square and striaght? (I currently dont hace a jointer.)
I've posted photos of a jig that makes this job quick, easy, and safe
on news:alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=6415
Bob S.
"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> What is a simple way I can ensure one side of my rough cut wood is
> square and striaght? (I currently dont hace a jointer.) Would a piece
> of angle iron nailed to the board to use as a straight edge work? I saw
> in a woodworkign magaizine something that looked like two small pieces
> of angle iron with a bolt running through it but I could not see what
> was on the bottom.
>
> This wood is not badly crooked, it almost is straight but with a square
> on it you can see in places 1/16 inch or so gaps. SOme places a little
> more. The wood right now to a little over 1 inch thick.
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
In article <[email protected]>, "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> In article <[email protected]>,
>"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >x-no-archive:yes
>> >
>> >What is a simple way I can ensure one side of my rough cut wood is
>> >square and striaght? (I currently dont hace a jointer.)
>>
>> ??·
>> you run it through a table saw. Cutting crooked wood on a table saw is
>just
>> begging for a kickback.
>>
>
>That's not true at all Doug. Fixing a guide to the board such that it
>provides a good straight surface to ride the fence is a perfectly safe and
>reliable method of ripping a crooked board.
As long as you *also* have some method of holding it flat so that it doesn't
rock, you're right. Easier to joint the wood, though, or just buy it S4S in
the first place.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
Here is a link to a tip on using your table saw as a jointer.
I haven't tried it but it may help.
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2005/01/28/wb/
"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> What is a simple way I can ensure one side of my rough cut wood is
> square and striaght? (I currently dont hace a jointer.) Would a piece
> of angle iron nailed to the board to use as a straight edge work? I saw
> in a woodworkign magaizine something that looked like two small pieces
> of angle iron with a bolt running through it but I could not see what
> was on the bottom.
>
> This wood is not badly crooked, it almost is straight but with a square
> on it you can see in places 1/16 inch or so gaps. SOme places a little
> more. The wood right now to a little over 1 inch thick.
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
>
> True. Point well taken. Since he didn't mention anything about it
> rocking
> I didn't think of that as an issue. Maybe it wasn't an issue. Only the
> OP
> knows for sure - or his hairdresser.
>
Yeah. LOL
"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> What is a simple way I can ensure one side of my rough cut wood is
> square and striaght? (I currently dont hace a jointer.) Would a piece
> of angle iron nailed to the board to use as a straight edge work? I saw
> in a woodworkign magaizine something that looked like two small pieces
> of angle iron with a bolt running through it but I could not see what
> was on the bottom.
>
> This wood is not badly crooked, it almost is straight but with a square
> on it you can see in places 1/16 inch or so gaps. SOme places a little
> more. The wood right now to a little over 1 inch thick.
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
You can produce a straight and true edge, glue ready on your table saw.
You'll want to do your due diligence and make sure your saw is well setup -
tuned. You'll want a good blade on the saw. You'll want a good fence on
the saw that will hold its place. From that starting point you can attach a
straight edge as a guide to ride the fence. That guide can be a good
straight piece of wood, angle iron as you suggest, or anything else that
will ride the fence true. Since you're within a hair's breath of true now,
you'd want to make passes that take only shavings off the edge, checking the
edge with each pass.
Alternatively, you can throw a hand plane across the edge of the board.
Thin, thin shavings. Take a little at a time along the entire edge until
you get it down dead nut.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Morris Dovey (in [email protected]) said:
| stryped (in [email protected])
| said:
|
|| What is a simple way I can ensure one side of my rough cut wood is
|| square and striaght? (I currently dont hace a jointer.)
|
| I've posted photos of a jig that makes this job quick, easy, and
| safe on news:alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.
In case you can't access ABPW, I've put the photos on a web page at
<http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/BoardSled.html>.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
stryped wrote:
> x-no-archive:yes
>
> What is a simple way I can ensure one side of my rough cut wood is
> square and striaght? (I currently dont hace a jointer.) Would a piece
> of angle iron nailed to the board to use as a straight edge work? I
> saw in a woodworkign magaizine something that looked like two small
> pieces of angle iron with a bolt running through it but I could not
> see what was on the bottom.
>
> This wood is not badly crooked, it almost is straight but with a
> square on it you can see in places 1/16 inch or so gaps. SOme places
> a little more. The wood right now to a little over 1 inch thick.
What you said or use your router...
1. Clamp a straight edge to the wood so that it's edge is barely
indented at the worst place. The straight edge needs to be wide enough
to support a router.
2. Run a router bit with a top bearing (same diameter as the cutter)
along the straight edge.
Alternatively, you could do the same witout a top bearing bit but you'd
need to inset the straight edge by the amount you wat to cut + the
router plate...you would then run the router on top of the piece being
cut with the router bottom riding against the straight edge. You could
also do #1 & #2 ut with a bottom bearing bit by putting the straight
edge on the bottom of the piece to be cut.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> He said crooked and described a deviation along the saw cut line. That's
> quite different from a twist which is what you are describing as a
> potential
> problem.
He also said rough cut wood and seldom is rough cut wood flat.