I am finishing a bed white oak and having applied the milky white varnish
(satin)
I find the finsh not too good.
Should I soak the wood with danish oil first as a sealer? (and can I use a
water bases varnish after this)
There seems to be uneven take-up of the water based varnish.
And Ideas for future projects - regards
--
http://www.connoraston.com
Connor Aston wrote:
> I am finishing a bed white oak and having applied the milky white
> varnish (satin)
> I find the finsh not too good.
> Should I soak the wood with danish oil first as a sealer? (and can I use
> a water bases varnish after this)
> There seems to be uneven take-up of the water based varnish.
>
> And Ideas for future projects - regards
>
before applying wb topcoats, apply WB sanding sealer. do NOT "
soak" the wood with danish oil first!!
dAVE
Tyke wrote:
> I use Minwax Stain-PreConditioner if I need to seal a piece before staining
> or finishing.
>
> You did not state what grit of sandpaper was the last sanding before
> applying the water based poly. This can have a big difference.
>
> Oak can be very porous and absorb the finish. If you did not seal first,
> you will get some grain raising from the water.
>
> Water based poly dries to the touch quickly, but takes longer than oil based
> to really harden, perhaps a couple of days.
>
> I apply a couple of coats, allowing to dry in between, and then let the
> piece harden for a couple of days before sanding and applying the final
> coat.
>
> If you apply oil, e.g., danish oil, then the water based poly may not
> adhere. You can apply oil based varnish as a first coat/sealer. Allow this
> to dry and then water based on top. The Minwax Stain-PreConditioner is an
> oil based varnish, but very dilute with mostly solvent.
>
> The milky colour is normal for water based. It should dry to be completely
> clear.
>
> Dave Paine.
>
> "Connor Aston" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:op.s2fm2jwpqkab0d@vigor13...
>
>>I am finishing a bed white oak and having applied the milky white varnish
>>(satin)
>>I find the finsh not too good.
>>Should I soak the wood with danish oil first as a sealer? (and can I use a
>>water bases varnish after this)
>>There seems to be uneven take-up of the water based varnish.
>>
>>And Ideas for future projects - regards
>>
>>--
>>http://www.connoraston.com
>
>
>
why on earth would you apply pre conditioner before using a water based
topcoat???
water based finishes take longer than just a few days to harden
completely. They actually take weeks to reach their full hardness.
They feel dry to the touch in mere minutes, but their scratch resistance
takes weeks to reach its max.
There is no need to wait "days" to apply the final coat. All coats can
be applied the same day. Sanding between coats is RECOMMENDED for
Enduro WB poly; a practice I adhere to with great results. I can sand
within 40 minutes or less, between coats. The final rubout, if need
should wait a day or more, depending on what process you are using. If
rubbing out with synthetic steel wool, a day or two is sufficient. If
going for a high gloss finish, using compounds, then it would better to
wait more than a couple of days.
Dave
Connor Aston wrote:
> I am finishing a bed white oak and having applied the milky white
> varnish (satin)
> I find the finsh not too good.
> Should I soak the wood with danish oil first as a sealer? (and can I
> use a water bases varnish after this)
> There seems to be uneven take-up of the water based varnish.
You need more than one coat. Try three (at least), sanding with fine
paper (220-320) between each.
No to the Danish oil.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
I use Minwax Stain-PreConditioner if I need to seal a piece before staining
or finishing.
You did not state what grit of sandpaper was the last sanding before
applying the water based poly. This can have a big difference.
Oak can be very porous and absorb the finish. If you did not seal first,
you will get some grain raising from the water.
Water based poly dries to the touch quickly, but takes longer than oil based
to really harden, perhaps a couple of days.
I apply a couple of coats, allowing to dry in between, and then let the
piece harden for a couple of days before sanding and applying the final
coat.
If you apply oil, e.g., danish oil, then the water based poly may not
adhere. You can apply oil based varnish as a first coat/sealer. Allow this
to dry and then water based on top. The Minwax Stain-PreConditioner is an
oil based varnish, but very dilute with mostly solvent.
The milky colour is normal for water based. It should dry to be completely
clear.
Dave Paine.
"Connor Aston" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:op.s2fm2jwpqkab0d@vigor13...
>I am finishing a bed white oak and having applied the milky white varnish
>(satin)
> I find the finsh not too good.
> Should I soak the wood with danish oil first as a sealer? (and can I use a
> water bases varnish after this)
> There seems to be uneven take-up of the water based varnish.
>
> And Ideas for future projects - regards
>
> --
> http://www.connoraston.com