A Murphy bed for when the wife is pissed because you spend all your time out
in your shop instead of where you should be, with her doing what ever the
hell it is she wants you to do with her at that moment in time.... oops
sorry I might have some issues. ;-)
KY
--
http://users.adelphia.net/~kyhighland
"Nick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi,
>
> I'm getting ready to convert a garage into a shop. It would involve
> insulating, wiring and sheetrocking the walls. I was just looking for
> advice on things not to forget to do before the sheetrock goes up.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Nick
run phone and stereo wires
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 25 Jan 2004 14:10:23 -0800, [email protected] (Nick) wrote:
>
> >Hi,
> >
> >I'm getting ready to convert a garage into a shop. It would involve
> >insulating, wiring and sheetrocking the walls. I was just looking for
> >advice on things not to forget to do before the sheetrock goes up.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Nick
>
> 1/2" cdx plywood and white paint should cost about the same as sheet
> rock and mud and paint. also with plywood you can hang cabinets , tool
> holders ect... much easier without having to find studs. skeez
Worried about hanging cabinets and such, just do the cleat thing. 1" x 4"
80" off the floor with another one parallel about 60" of the floor. Put a
45 deg angle on the high one, with a mating angle on the back of your
cabinet. Then, you can hang the cabinet anywhere, even when you decide to
move them.
"John Crea" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Think about air lines and DC piping while you have the walls down
>
> You cannot have too many outlets, both 115 and 220
>
> Also think about lighting the work area and how you will accomplish
> this.
>
> Heating and cooling for those times when it is not a balmy 60-75
> degrees outside
>
> Think about a sink for cleanup.
>
> John
> On 25 Jan 2004 14:10:23 -0800, [email protected] (Nick) wrote:
>
> >Hi,
> >
> >I'm getting ready to convert a garage into a shop. It would involve
> >insulating, wiring and sheetrocking the walls. I was just looking for
> >advice on things not to forget to do before the sheetrock goes up.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Nick
>
Plan a first-rate cyclone dust collection system. Stay away from the
systems that use cloth bags. Invest some time and get educated at
http://cnets.net/~eclectic/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm
For a top-performing system get a cyclone kit and blower housing
(http://cnets.net/~eclectic/woodworking/cyclone/ClarkesKits.cfm) and
add ductwork, impeller, motor, filter, and motor starter/controller
and you have as good a system as can be found anywhere and all at a
decent cost.
CE
Nick wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm getting ready to convert a garage into a shop. It would involve
> insulating, wiring and sheetrocking the walls. I was just looking for
> advice on things not to forget to do before the sheetrock goes up.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Nick
On 25 Jan 2004 22:42:20 -0800, [email protected] (Jim Campbell)
wrote:
>Take digital photos of all the walls right before the sheetrock goes
>up. It's really useful to be able to not only see where the studs are,
>but where the wires and any other in wall stuff goes at a later time.
I knew I'd lose the photos or trash the hard drive eventually so when
I mudded the drywall on the ceiling, I avoided going over the screws a
second time after the first coat dried and those little depressions
formed.
Now, even with paint, I can see the little dimples, and _know_ just
where the ceiling joists are. It made hanging the light fixtures a
_lot_ easier.
Michael
Translation: " I hate drywall mudding, got lazy, and am reaping a
really lucky benefit from it. :) "
Lots of good advice here. I might also suggest an electrical subpanel
for your shop. Plenty of 220 service also. Insulate before you put up
the wall board/ply. If you're in a climate with seasons, plan on a heat
source.
mahalo,
jo4hn
Nick wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I'm getting ready to convert a garage into a shop. It would involve
> insulating, wiring and sheetrocking the walls. I was just looking for
> advice on things not to forget to do before the sheetrock goes up.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Nick
Edwin Pawlowski suggested...
> Plenty of recepticals at about 48" high so they are easily reached when
> plugging in tools
Make 'em 49" or 50" high at the bottom. If you ever lean a sheet of
plywood against a wall, you can still plug something in over it. Space
them every four to six feet; you'll be glad you did.
Jim
Jim Wilson writes:
>Edwin Pawlowski suggested...
>> Plenty of recepticals at about 48" high so they are easily reached when
>> plugging in tools
>
>Make 'em 49" or 50" high at the bottom. If you ever lean a sheet of
>plywood against a wall, you can still plug something in over it. Space
>them every four to six feet; you'll be glad you did.
Make that the bottom of the receptaclke at 50" so both outlets can be used.
Another thought: I spaced my outlets 6' or so apart, some 4', and the ones I'm
happiest with are the 4 way outlets on two sides of the center beam supports.
Give some thought to using receptacles with 4 outlets on 2 circuits.
Most codes won't allow wooden walls in a shop that's in an attached garage. If
that's the case, lay in some 2x4s or 2x6s between studs as nailers. Make them
at 2-3 different heights, but use the same heights all the way around. You'll
then know exactly where on your Sheetrock wall you can hang the heavy stuff
without having to screw around with hollow wall anchors.
Charlie Self
"Character is much easier kept than recovered." Thomas Paine
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
On 26 Jan 2004 00:29:03 GMT, [email protected] (Charlie Self)
wrote:
|Jim Wilson writes:
|
|>Edwin Pawlowski suggested...
|>> Plenty of recepticals at about 48" high so they are easily reached when
|>> plugging in tools
|>
|>Make 'em 49" or 50" high at the bottom. If you ever lean a sheet of
|>plywood against a wall, you can still plug something in over it. Space
|>them every four to six feet; you'll be glad you did.
|
|Make that the bottom of the receptaclke at 50" so both outlets can be used.
|Another thought: I spaced my outlets 6' or so apart, some 4', and the ones I'm
|happiest with are the 4 way outlets on two sides of the center beam supports.
|Give some thought to using receptacles with 4 outlets on 2 circuits.
Yes. When I built my garage I put in an electrical panel with
separate breakers for each wall, lights and door openers. I have
outlets both at 50" above the floor and at 12". Since I'm in Tucson,
I put in evaporative cooling, but no heating. Also 240V several
places, including overhead drops. I also have a water line.
|
|Most codes won't allow wooden walls in a shop that's in an attached garage.
Could be, I would have to check our local codes, but I suspect you are
correct. My garage is still unfinished (open) studs except for the
wall common to the living space which must be fire rated. I have 5/8"
fire code sheetrock on the garage side and 3/4" on the living space
side and a steel fire rated pedestrian door. If it is to remain a
garage then fire is always an issue. Bringing a hot car or truck
inside with 20 or 30 gallons of gasoline on board is always a worry.
Even without the cars, a few gallons of paint thinner, etc. is always
an issue.
If your roof joists will handle it, you might think about some hard
points where you can add overhead storage later. My I-joists are
still open and I just finished hanging a rack on some threaded rod for
overhead lumber storage.
Nick wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I'm getting ready to convert a garage into a shop. It would involve
> insulating, wiring and sheetrocking the walls. I was just looking for
> advice on things not to forget to do before the sheetrock goes up.
In addition to everything else, consider soundproofing. Ask if you're
interested and/or Google for past conversations.
4" studs on 6" plates will be a part of my next (first <g>) shop
construction.
-- Mark
Ditto that, Skeez. When I had my garage built, I finished the inside
with 1/2 cdx plywood. Not much more work than sheetrock, and definitely
worth it when it comes time to hang anything, esp cabinets. Actually,
when you use ply, there's no need for mudding, taping, and sanding. And
receptacles are just like horsepower, "Way too much is ALMOST
enough". <G> Mark
[email protected] wrote:
> On 25 Jan 2004 14:10:23 -0800, [email protected] (Nick) wrote:
>
>
>>Hi,
>>
>>I'm getting ready to convert a garage into a shop. It would involve
>>insulating, wiring and sheetrocking the walls. I was just looking for
>>advice on things not to forget to do before the sheetrock goes up.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Nick
>
>
> 1/2" cdx plywood and white paint should cost about the same as sheet
> rock and mud and paint. also with plywood you can hang cabinets , tool
> holders ect... much easier without having to find studs. skeez
On 25 Jan 2004 14:10:23 -0800, [email protected] (Nick) wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I'm getting ready to convert a garage into a shop. It would involve
>insulating, wiring and sheetrocking the walls. I was just looking for
>advice on things not to forget to do before the sheetrock goes up.
Rather than sheetrock, consider using 3/4 particle board. Costs more,
but allows you to nail shelving, fixtures, whatever, wherever you
want.
On 25 Jan 2004 14:10:23 -0800, [email protected] (Nick) wrote:
>>I'm getting ready to convert a garage into a shop. It would involve
>>insulating, wiring and sheetrocking the walls. I was just looking for
>>advice on things not to forget to do before the sheetrock goes up.
Etch the floor and paint it (epoxy or porch paint) before the other
work. It will keep the nastyass concrete dust out of your lungs (MAN,
that stuff is nasty!) and a white floor is really nice for finding
dropped items and for helping make the place well lit.
I like the shops which put up the drywall sideways and left
an area in the center of the wall to run piping and wiring
at the 4' height. It allows you to insulate well while the
center maintenance area is accessible. Insulate everything.
Plan for lots of 120 and 240v outlets, good overhead fluor.
lighting (perhaps on 2 separate circuits), separate incan.
task lighting for the tools and work areas, etc.
I had a single outlet on each wall plus a quad drop in the
center. I run an extension cord from the center to anywhere
I need it if there isn't an outlet handy, but if I had bare
walls, I'd run more outlets at waist or higher height. You'll
probably want an electrician to run a subpanel for you, but
check with them to see if they'll let you do most of the work
(if you're comfy with that) letting them finish connections
and signoff for a fee.
Paint the entire thing, from top to bottom, with pure white
eggshell/satin paint. With everything white, I have a well
lit 2-car shop using five 4' twin-bulb fluors.
----------------------------------------------------------------
* Blessed are those who can * Humorous T-shirts Online
* laugh at themselves, for they * Comprehensive Website Dev.
* shall never cease to be amused * http://www.diversify.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
> I'm getting ready to convert a garage into a shop. It would involve
> insulating, wiring and sheetrocking the walls. I was just looking for
> advice on things not to forget to do before the sheetrock goes up.
Lots of good advice here. I'll add:
Take digital photos of all the walls right before the sheetrock goes
up. It's really useful to be able to not only see where the studs are,
but where the wires and any other in wall stuff goes at a later time.
And put in more receptacles then you ever thought you'll need. I put
in lots and still wish I had more.
Jim
Think about air lines and DC piping while you have the walls down
You cannot have too many outlets, both 115 and 220
Also think about lighting the work area and how you will accomplish
this.
Heating and cooling for those times when it is not a balmy 60-75
degrees outside
Think about a sink for cleanup.
John
On 25 Jan 2004 14:10:23 -0800, [email protected] (Nick) wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I'm getting ready to convert a garage into a shop. It would involve
>insulating, wiring and sheetrocking the walls. I was just looking for
>advice on things not to forget to do before the sheetrock goes up.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Nick
I also did mine with 1/2 cdx, but used the tongue & groove type. That
way the joints comeout perfect. Makes it even better than sheetrock.
Also definitely would put 3 or 4" DC pipe between the studs, and have
90's come out at the bottom to feed machines.
--Caleb
On Sun, 25 Jan 2004 22:54:43 GMT, Mark <[email protected]> wrote:
>Ditto that, Skeez. When I had my garage built, I finished the inside
>with 1/2 cdx plywood. Not much more work than sheetrock, and definitely
>worth it when it comes time to hang anything, esp cabinets. Actually,
>when you use ply, there's no need for mudding, taping, and sanding. And
>receptacles are just like horsepower, "Way too much is ALMOST
>enough". <G> Mark
>
>[email protected] wrote:
>> On 25 Jan 2004 14:10:23 -0800, [email protected] (Nick) wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Hi,
>>>
>>>I'm getting ready to convert a garage into a shop. It would involve
>>>insulating, wiring and sheetrocking the walls. I was just looking for
>>>advice on things not to forget to do before the sheetrock goes up.
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>
>>>Nick
>>
>>
>> 1/2" cdx plywood and white paint should cost about the same as sheet
>> rock and mud and paint. also with plywood you can hang cabinets , tool
>> holders ect... much easier without having to find studs. skeez
Nick wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I'm getting ready to convert a garage into a shop. It would involve
> insulating, wiring and sheetrocking the walls. I was just looking for
> advice on things not to forget to do before the sheetrock goes up.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Nick
Plenty of recepticals at about 48" high so they are easily reached when
plugging in tools. Consider dropped recepticals for some of the tools also.
One to the left of teh bandsaw prevents tripping over a wire and will not
interfere with sawing.
Ligting over all tools, of course. How about an exhaust fan? Sure you can
open the door, but a fan near where you do finishing will vent fumes and not
all (but some) of the heat in the cooler months.
If you know the position of some heavy cabinets or shelves, consider a few
horizontal nailers between the studs.
--
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
Along with all the other great suggestions. If you use pneumatic tools =
in more than one area hide a hard line with quick connects in various =
areas of your wall that way you use less hose and keep your shop =
cleaner.
Puff
"Nick" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:[email protected]...
> Hi,
>=20
> I'm getting ready to convert a garage into a shop. It would involve
> insulating, wiring and sheetrocking the walls. I was just looking for
> advice on things not to forget to do before the sheetrock goes up.
>=20
> Thanks,
>=20
> Nick
On 25 Jan 2004 14:10:23 -0800, [email protected] (Nick) wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I'm getting ready to convert a garage into a shop. It would involve
>insulating, wiring and sheetrocking the walls. I was just looking for
>advice on things not to forget to do before the sheetrock goes up.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Nick
1/2" cdx plywood and white paint should cost about the same as sheet
rock and mud and paint. also with plywood you can hang cabinets , tool
holders ect... much easier without having to find studs. skeez
Just got done with my place where i live(according to my wife)I call it a
garage.
After installing all the insulation and electrical i covered it with tile
bored. It is the white shiney stuff(very bright) that is used in bath rooms.
Never have to paint and very easy to clean. Cost about $10.00
A 4x8 sheet. If you figure it out it is cheaper then dry wall . No priming or
painting. I also used dry wall screws for every thng. That way if you ever want
to add or change something it is not a problem.
Hope this helps
Stan
when I built mine I found a load of peg board on sale for $5 a 4x8 sheet.
Didn't hang sheetrock, used the peg board.
--
http://users.adelphia.net/~kyhighland
"Nick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi,
>
> I'm getting ready to convert a garage into a shop. It would involve
> insulating, wiring and sheetrocking the walls. I was just looking for
> advice on things not to forget to do before the sheetrock goes up.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Nick
In article <[email protected]>, Nick wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I'm getting ready to convert a garage into a shop. It would involve
> insulating, wiring and sheetrocking the walls. I was just looking for
> advice on things not to forget to do before the sheetrock goes up.
Insulate between studs
Seal interface between studs and concrete block with RTV
MARK THE STUD LOCATIONS ON THE GARAGE FLOOR!!!
MARK THE STUD LOCATIONS ON THE GARAGE CEILING!!!
If you've run power inside the wall, put those anti-screw plates up
Once you have sheetrock up with a few screws, draw line between the
ceiling mark and the floor mark so you know where to put rest of screws...
Paint walls and ceiling flat white and add four or six electronic ballast
shop lights ( eight foot long ones ). Use conduit for surface mount power
distribution. DON'T USE THE CONDUIT AS A GROUND; RUN A GROUND WIRE TOO.
Don't run romex where it could be wacked by a flying board or otherwise
damaged. I also put those plastic tubes over the fluorescent bulbs to
prevent breakage (or minimize flying glass).
A hundred amp breaker panel with breakers is available at the BORG for
less than $100. Use 20 amp 120V sockets and #12 wire, 30 amp 240V
sockets and #10 wire. Run the lights from somewhere else, not on this
panel. Reason - you always want to be able to turn on the lights, but
may want to lock out the entire power tool supply if you have kids. I
am installing a single twist-lock socket on the switched light circuit
to power a shop dust filter. I need/want the air filter to go on with
the lights but the twist-lock socket keeps unauthorized use to a minimum.