I'm planning on using birch plywood for my current kitchen cabinet project.
Going to use 1/2" (9 ply) for the sides and 3/4" front & back.
I've been experimenting with my new half-blind dovetail jig and using of
scrap
3/4" 5-ply maple plywood and getting some really poor results.
The rounded portion on the pins(?) are breaking off (1-ply worth) and this
seems to be causing the joint to flex a lot.
I'm using a Freud 1/2 14 deg bit in a Bosch 1617 router.
Should I expect better results with the better quality birch plywood - OR -
is this just a bad technique (inexperience) on my part.
I not planning on having a lot of birch leftover and don't want to
experiment
on it too much.
ThankX
Ron
Is this just poor technique on my par
Just a thought - I have made several kitchens - I use 3/8 for the ALL the
sides and 1/4" for the bottoms of a normal width and depth drawer - I then
face the drawers with 3/4" wood to match the style of the cabinet doors -
that could save you a few bucks on the plywood...Just a thought
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:iBWlc.33478$Ik.2061876@attbi_s53...
> I'm planning on using birch plywood for my current kitchen cabinet
project.
> Going to use 1/2" (9 ply) for the sides and 3/4" front & back.
> I've been experimenting with my new half-blind dovetail jig and using of
> scrap
> 3/4" 5-ply maple plywood and getting some really poor results.
>
> The rounded portion on the pins(?) are breaking off (1-ply worth) and this
> seems to be causing the joint to flex a lot.
>
> I'm using a Freud 1/2 14 deg bit in a Bosch 1617 router.
>
> Should I expect better results with the better quality birch plywood -
OR -
> is this just a bad technique (inexperience) on my part.
>
> I not planning on having a lot of birch leftover and don't want to
> experiment
> on it too much.
>
> ThankX
> Ron
>
>
>
>
>
> Is this just poor technique on my par
>
>
Try this, it worked for me and made ALL the difference. First start by
taking a pass along the front edge of the guide fingers to define the cut.
Then start on the right and work the router very slowly into the half pin
cut. Move to the next guide finger and run the router in following the RIGHT
side of the opening between the guide fingers. Bring the router straight
back out and then run the left side of the same opening. Don't ever try to
go in on one side and back out on the other in one sweep. Guide it on right,
then on the left and go slow around the round portions of the guide fingers
always right to left. Whenever I try to go left to right the end of the tail
ALWAYS snaps off. A little trial and error and the jig should perform
flawlessly. I can send pics if you want to see the results. Hope this helps.
Jim
"Ron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:iBWlc.33478$Ik.2061876@attbi_s53...
> I'm planning on using birch plywood for my current kitchen cabinet
project.
> Going to use 1/2" (9 ply) for the sides and 3/4" front & back.
> I've been experimenting with my new half-blind dovetail jig and using of
> scrap
> 3/4" 5-ply maple plywood and getting some really poor results.
>
> The rounded portion on the pins(?) are breaking off (1-ply worth) and this
> seems to be causing the joint to flex a lot.
>
> I'm using a Freud 1/2 14 deg bit in a Bosch 1617 router.
>
> Should I expect better results with the better quality birch plywood -
OR -
> is this just a bad technique (inexperience) on my part.
>
> I not planning on having a lot of birch leftover and don't want to
> experiment
> on it too much.
>
> ThankX
> Ron
>
>
>
>
>
> Is this just poor technique on my par
>
>
I give this a try.
The instructions which came with the jig, suggest cutting the pins from
left to right.
Also, I think the collar/guide on the router is just about the same size as
the openings between the teeth on the jig. But, I'll check again.
ThankX
Ron
"James D. Kountz" <jkountz@(remove this)citlink.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Try this, it worked for me and made ALL the difference. First start by
> taking a pass along the front edge of the guide fingers to define the cut.
> Then start on the right and work the router very slowly into the half pin
> cut. Move to the next guide finger and run the router in following the
RIGHT
> side of the opening between the guide fingers. Bring the router straight
> back out and then run the left side of the same opening. Don't ever try to
> go in on one side and back out on the other in one sweep. Guide it on
right,
> then on the left and go slow around the round portions of the guide
fingers
> always right to left. Whenever I try to go left to right the end of the
tail
> ALWAYS snaps off. A little trial and error and the jig should perform
> flawlessly. I can send pics if you want to see the results. Hope this
helps.
>
> Jim
>
>
> "Ron" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:iBWlc.33478$Ik.2061876@attbi_s53...
> > I'm planning on using birch plywood for my current kitchen cabinet
> project.
> > Going to use 1/2" (9 ply) for the sides and 3/4" front & back.
> > I've been experimenting with my new half-blind dovetail jig and using of
> > scrap
> > 3/4" 5-ply maple plywood and getting some really poor results.
> >
> > The rounded portion on the pins(?) are breaking off (1-ply worth) and
this
> > seems to be causing the joint to flex a lot.
> >
> > I'm using a Freud 1/2 14 deg bit in a Bosch 1617 router.
> >
> > Should I expect better results with the better quality birch plywood -
> OR -
> > is this just a bad technique (inexperience) on my part.
> >
> > I not planning on having a lot of birch leftover and don't want to
> > experiment
> > on it too much.
> >
> > ThankX
> > Ron
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Is this just poor technique on my par
> >
> >
>
>