buying used table saw

On 11/6/2012 6:20 PM, Twayne wrote:
> ...
>>>> Have a good friend - he is younger and a big fella, who
>>>> puts his Unisaw in the back of his pickup and takes and
>>>> sets it up on site for finish work alone. Yes, they're
>>>> heavy, but do tip upside down without ever requiring
>>>> picking up the whole thing. They are much more stable
>>>> upside down - no longer top heavy. He does have a
>>>> short Biesmeyer on it.
>>>
>>> I'd think that would be *very* hard on the cast iron
>>> top. I have to move mine the last 100' (garage to
>>> basement) in our move from AL to GA, soon. I've been
>>> told by everyone to be careful of the top.
>
>
> ...
>
> What do you mean by hard on a cast iron top? Breakage? Scratching? What. I
> don't think I've ever seen a TS with a cast iron top - how common are they?

As common as it gets.

Have you seen a 4 door car?

On Wednesday, October 17, 2012 1:42:40 PM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
> Gramp's shop wrote:
>=20
> > On Tuesday, October 16, 2012 4:54:14 PM UTC-5, Zz Yzx wrote:
>=20
> >> I'm considering buying a used cabinet TS off Craig's List or whatever.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> You say "or whatever", but if you are looking for a cabinet saw (~500=20
>=20
> pounds), and don't have a truck with a lift gate, LOCATION counts for a=
=20
>=20
> lot.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> An important feature I didn't see in your list is a "quality fence".=20
>=20
> Good luck (I'm still in search of a TS myself)! Grizzly G690 is on my=20
>=20
> list, but i wouldn't mind seeing a Delta UnisawStop (my term) show up in=
=20
>=20
> the marketplace.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Bill
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> >>
>=20
> >>
>=20
> >>
>=20
> >> Aside from the obvious:
>=20
> >>
>=20
> >> Overall condition, fit and finish
>=20
> >>
>=20
> >> Table flatness and condition
>=20
> >>
>=20
> >> Cranks, pulleys, &tc., smooth tilt and blade adjustment
>=20
> >>
>=20
> >> motor and wiring
>=20
> >>
>=20
> >> arbor run-out
>=20
> >>
>=20
> >> bearings
>=20
> >>
>=20
> >>
>=20
> >>
>=20
> >> What else should I look for?
>=20
> >>
>=20
> >>
>=20
> >>
>=20
> >> Thanks a heap,
>=20
> >>
>=20
> >> -Zz
>=20
> >
>=20
> > I'd start with thinking about what saw I'd want if I were buying new, t=
hen look for that model in the pre-owned market. In addition to CL, you mi=
ght want to watch IRS auctions in the event there is one close to you. The=
y seem to specialize in surplus woodworking equipment.
>=20
> >

Bill might have pointed out one of the more important features in a table s=
aw - fence. Even if you find a good table or cabinet saw with a less-than-=
great fence; if price is right you can retrofit a fence. A lot of folks wi=
ll aim you at the Biesemeyer which is a good fence. But Bill's reference t=
o Grizzly reminded me that Grizzly offers their Shop Fox Classic fence as a=
separate package, with short or long rails. I have owned a Grizzly 1023S =
for about 11 years and it is equipped with the Classic fence - love it. Ou=
r son has a Grizzly contractor's style saw with the aluminum Classic. I ha=
ve used his machine quite a bit and it is functionally very similar.

RonB

On Wed, 07 Nov 2012 10:17:42 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

>On 11/6/2012 7:31 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Tue, 6 Nov 2012 19:20:08 -0500, "Twayne"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> ...
>>>>>> Have a good friend - he is younger and a big fella, who
>>>>>> puts his Unisaw in the back of his pickup and takes and
>>>>>> sets it up on site for finish work alone. Yes, they're
>>>>>> heavy, but do tip upside down without ever requiring
>>>>>> picking up the whole thing. They are much more stable
>>>>>> upside down - no longer top heavy. He does have a
>>>>>> short Biesmeyer on it.
>>>>>
>>>>> I'd think that would be *very* hard on the cast iron
>>>>> top. I have to move mine the last 100' (garage to
>>>>> basement) in our move from AL to GA, soon. I've been
>>>>> told by everyone to be careful of the top.
>>>
>>>
>>> ...
>>>
>>> What do you mean by hard on a cast iron top? Breakage? Scratching? What. I
>>> don't think I've ever seen a TS with a cast iron top - how common are they?
>>
>> Warp. You've never seen a TS with a cast iron top? I only know of a
>> few with granite tops and some cheap ones with steel tops. ????
>
>I think cast iron and aluminum are the most common, not sure I have seen
>one with a steel top though.
>
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>> Personally, I'd just put a heavy blanket down, turn the saw over, and set it
>>> on the blanket upside down. A furniture blanket would be best, but anything
>>> for padding shoulc work. Otherwise, load it uprght and simply tie it in
>>> place properly and voilA! No problem.
>>
>> What's the purpose of the blanket? It's not going over the ground
>> that way!
>>
>>> If you do turn a saw upside down, clean out the sawdust and be sure any
>>> motor mounts won't twist or otherwise be damaged from the vibrations. If the
>>> motor is external, it's best to simply remove it and carry it separated from
>>> the TS.
>>
>> It's a Unisaw. Nothing hanging outside but the bottom has wheels. ;-)
>
>Yeah, you don't want to turn that upside down. Better to probably
>remove the motor or reattach the motor shipping brackets it should have
>come with.
>
>that said, Swingman and I have transported our cabinet saws on mobile
>bases to different locations via lift gate truck. We have it down to an
>art.
>
It's pretty easy to get into a U-Haul trailer. A little "walking" on
and off ramps works. The back of the trailer is only 8" or so off the
road. The only issue is getting it across the ground, to the back
door. I can't get the trailer closer than about 10' from the door and
it'll have to turn a couple of times. It shouldn't be a real big
deal, though.

Once I figured out that the trailer could get back there easily, I
stopped worrying about it too much. I just haven't had time because
I'm trying to get the other house on the market.

When you go to inspect it, bring some boards and do some specific cuts and such. Not only see how it works, but feel how it works.

Sonny

On Oct 21, 6:40=A0pm, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sat, 20 Oct 2012 20:33:51 -0500, DanG <[email protected]> wrote:
> >On 10/17/2012 6:54 PM, Mike M wrote:
> >> On Wed, 17 Oct 2012 14:41:02 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >>> Gramp's shop wrote:
> >>>> On Tuesday, October 16, 2012 4:54:14 PM UTC-5, Zz Yzx wrote:
> >>>>> I'm considering buying a used cabinet TS off Craig's List or whatev=
er.
>
> >>> You say "or whatever", but if you are looking for a cabinet saw (~500
> >>> pounds), and don't have a truck with a lift gate, LOCATION counts for=
a
> >>> lot.
>
> >>> An important feature I didn't see in your list is a "quality fence".
> >>> Good luck (I'm still in search of a TS myself)! =A0Grizzly G690 is on=
my
> >>> list, but i wouldn't mind seeing a Delta UnisawStop (my term) show up=
in
> >>> the marketplace.
>
> >>> Bill
>
> >>>>> Aside from the obvious:
>
> >>>>> =A0 =A0Overall condition, fit and finish
>
> >>>>> =A0 =A0Table flatness and condition
>
> >>>>> =A0 =A0Cranks, pulleys, &tc., smooth tilt and blade adjustment
>
> >>>>> =A0 =A0motor and wiring
>
> >>>>> =A0 =A0arbor run-out
>
> >>>>> =A0 =A0bearings
>
> >>>>> What else should I look for?
>
> >>>>> Thanks a heap,
>
> >>>>> -Zz
>
> >> I'm pretty sure it was Swingman but he had the best idea I've seen if
> >> you have no alternatives. =A0He hired a flatbed tow truck it went very
> >> well.
>
> >Have a good friend - he is younger and a big fella, who puts his Unisaw
> >in the back of his pickup and takes and sets it up on site for finish
> >work alone. =A0Yes, they're heavy, but do tip upside down without ever
> >requiring =A0picking up the whole thing. =A0They are much more stable up=
side
> >down - no longer top heavy. =A0He does have a short Biesmeyer on it.
>
> I'd think that would be *very* hard on the cast iron top. =A0I have to mo=
ve mine
> the last 100' (garage to basement) in our move from AL to GA, soon. =A0I'=
ve been
> told by everyone to be careful of the top.

Break the saw down. Smaller pieces are easier to handle without
damage. Wings and table are probably going to need to be
reset, anyway.

On Sun, 21 Oct 2012 21:09:33 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 10/17/2012 6:54 PM, Mike M wrote:
>
>> I'm pretty sure it was Swingman but he had the best idea I've seen if
>> you have no alternatives. He hired a flatbed tow truck it went very
>> well.
>
>Not me ... I have indeed moved my Unisaw a few times, but rent a truck
>with a TommyLift.

Well I guess another senior moment for me, but if you think about it
at a negotiated rate it makes some sense.

Mike M

On 10/20/2012 02:36 PM, Bill wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>
>> FWIW few if any "new" 10" cabinet saws have cast iron right side
>> extension tables for the 50"+ rip capacity.
>
>
> Maybe the idea of having a short cast iron extension table is to mount a
> router on it? Do you suppose they come pre-cut/drilled?
>
<http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21598>
<http://www.grizzly.com/products/Router-Extension-Table-for-Table-Saw/H7507>

--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in news:k7e1kv$sb6$1
@dont-email.me:

> Leon wrote:
>
>>
>> As common as it gets.
>>
>> Have you seen a 4 door car?
>
> 4 doors??? No way! What will they think of next?
>

Windows!

--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On Tuesday, October 16, 2012 5:54:14 PM UTC-4, Zz Yzx wrote:
> I'm considering buying a used cabinet TS off Craig's List or whatever.
>
> Aside from the obvious:
>

> What else should I look for?

Fence and guards to be complete and adequate.
I've never seen a table saw top too unflat to be useful
(but cast iron with a crack, I HAVE seen). And don't check
for alignment, you will have to set up and realign completely
regardless, after moving the machine into your work area.

On Thu, 18 Oct 2012 12:16:56 -0400, Bill <[email protected]>
>Surely there are other options. I believe $omething could be worked out

Loooong past that point after Gass visited the other table saw
companies trying to get them to license his invention.

On Tuesday, October 16, 2012 4:54:14 PM UTC-5, Zz Yzx wrote:
> I'm considering buying a used cabinet TS off Craig's List or whatever.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Aside from the obvious:
>=20
> Overall condition, fit and finish
>=20
> Table flatness and condition
>=20
> Cranks, pulleys, &tc., smooth tilt and blade adjustment
>=20
> motor and wiring
>=20
> arbor run-out
>=20
> bearings
>=20
>=20
>=20
> What else should I look for?
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Thanks a heap,
>=20
> -Zz

I'd start with thinking about what saw I'd want if I were buying new, then =
look for that model in the pre-owned market. In addition to CL, you might =
want to watch IRS auctions in the event there is one close to you. They se=
em to specialize in surplus woodworking equipment.

On Tue, 6 Nov 2012 19:20:08 -0500, "Twayne"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
>...
>>>> Have a good friend - he is younger and a big fella, who
>>>> puts his Unisaw in the back of his pickup and takes and
>>>> sets it up on site for finish work alone. Yes, they're
>>>> heavy, but do tip upside down without ever requiring
>>>> picking up the whole thing. They are much more stable
>>>> upside down - no longer top heavy. He does have a
>>>> short Biesmeyer on it.
>>>
>>> I'd think that would be *very* hard on the cast iron
>>> top. I have to move mine the last 100' (garage to
>>> basement) in our move from AL to GA, soon. I've been
>>> told by everyone to be careful of the top.
>
>
>...
>
>What do you mean by hard on a cast iron top? Breakage? Scratching? What. I
>don't think I've ever seen a TS with a cast iron top - how common are they?

Warp. You've never seen a TS with a cast iron top? I only know of a
few with granite tops and some cheap ones with steel tops. ????


>Personally, I'd just put a heavy blanket down, turn the saw over, and set it
>on the blanket upside down. A furniture blanket would be best, but anything
>for padding shoulc work. Otherwise, load it uprght and simply tie it in
>place properly and voilA! No problem.

What's the purpose of the blanket? It's not going over the ground
that way!

> If you do turn a saw upside down, clean out the sawdust and be sure any
>motor mounts won't twist or otherwise be damaged from the vibrations. If the
>motor is external, it's best to simply remove it and carry it separated from
>the TS.

It's a Unisaw. Nothing hanging outside but the bottom has wheels. ;-)

I would look for Saw Stop capabilities.. :-)
Flame wars begin.

On 10/16/2012 5:54 PM, Zz Yzx wrote:
> I'm considering buying a used cabinet TS off Craig's List or whatever.
>
> Aside from the obvious:
> Overall condition, fit and finish
> Table flatness and condition
> Cranks, pulleys, &tc., smooth tilt and blade adjustment
> motor and wiring
> arbor run-out
> bearings
>
> What else should I look for?
>
> Thanks a heap,
> -Zz
>
>

On 10/20/2012 12:04 AM, Bill wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Leon wrote:
>>> On 10/18/2012 8:11 AM, Dave wrote:
>>>> On Wed, 17 Oct 2012 14:41:02 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> list, but i wouldn't mind seeing a Delta UnisawStop (my term) show
>>>>> up in
>>>>> the marketplace.
>>>>
>>>> You're going to be waiting some 20 or so more years for that patent to
>>>> expire.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> And I think I would rather have the SawStop brand over the "Delta of
>>> today" version.
>>
>> Maybe so. Sawstop has 2 tiers of quality just in their cabinet saws. The
>> higher level one, at least, has several HP choices (3,5 and 7.5, IIRC).
>> I'm going to visit Woodcraft this weekend for their 10 and 15% off sale.
>> Maybe I'll get an estimate on a package while I'm there. As you
>> probably are well-aware, alot of parts on a SawStop are priced
>> separately: the blade guard, and fence for instance.
>>
>> Bill
>
> I made my visit and bought my sharpening slips. I found out that the
> weekend 10% special on powertools doesn't apply to SawStop or Festool.
> Professional (not "Industrial") Sawstop with 36" table and 3 HP motor
> with fence and basic blade cover is $2899 + $200 for mobile base + $250
> for shipping + tax.
> Let's see, that comes to $3349 + 7% = $3583.43, but to be fair (in
> making comparisons), that includes the mobile base.
>

To make it easier to compare, add to the price of the Unisaw to
compensate for not having a blade stop feature.

On 11/6/2012 7:31 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Tue, 6 Nov 2012 19:20:08 -0500, "Twayne"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>> ...
>>>>> Have a good friend - he is younger and a big fella, who
>>>>> puts his Unisaw in the back of his pickup and takes and
>>>>> sets it up on site for finish work alone. Yes, they're
>>>>> heavy, but do tip upside down without ever requiring
>>>>> picking up the whole thing. They are much more stable
>>>>> upside down - no longer top heavy. He does have a
>>>>> short Biesmeyer on it.
>>>>
>>>> I'd think that would be *very* hard on the cast iron
>>>> top. I have to move mine the last 100' (garage to
>>>> basement) in our move from AL to GA, soon. I've been
>>>> told by everyone to be careful of the top.
>>
>>
>> ...
>>
>> What do you mean by hard on a cast iron top? Breakage? Scratching? What. I
>> don't think I've ever seen a TS with a cast iron top - how common are they?
>
> Warp. You've never seen a TS with a cast iron top? I only know of a
> few with granite tops and some cheap ones with steel tops. ????

I think cast iron and aluminum are the most common, not sure I have seen
one with a steel top though.




>
>
>> Personally, I'd just put a heavy blanket down, turn the saw over, and set it
>> on the blanket upside down. A furniture blanket would be best, but anything
>> for padding shoulc work. Otherwise, load it uprght and simply tie it in
>> place properly and voilA! No problem.
>
> What's the purpose of the blanket? It's not going over the ground
> that way!
>
>> If you do turn a saw upside down, clean out the sawdust and be sure any
>> motor mounts won't twist or otherwise be damaged from the vibrations. If the
>> motor is external, it's best to simply remove it and carry it separated from
>> the TS.
>
> It's a Unisaw. Nothing hanging outside but the bottom has wheels. ;-)

Yeah, you don't want to turn that upside down. Better to probably
remove the motor or reattach the motor shipping brackets it should have
come with.

that said, Swingman and I have transported our cabinet saws on mobile
bases to different locations via lift gate truck. We have it down to an
art.





>

On 10/20/2012 3:26 PM, Bill wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> On 10/20/2012 12:04 AM, Bill wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>> Leon wrote:
>>>>> On 10/18/2012 8:11 AM, Dave wrote:
>>>>>> On Wed, 17 Oct 2012 14:41:02 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>> list, but i wouldn't mind seeing a Delta UnisawStop (my term) show
>>>>>>> up in
>>>>>>> the marketplace.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> You're going to be waiting some 20 or so more years for that
>>>>>> patent to
>>>>>> expire.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> And I think I would rather have the SawStop brand over the "Delta of
>>>>> today" version.
>>>>
>>>> Maybe so. Sawstop has 2 tiers of quality just in their cabinet saws.
>>>> The
>>>> higher level one, at least, has several HP choices (3,5 and 7.5, IIRC).
>>>> I'm going to visit Woodcraft this weekend for their 10 and 15% off
>>>> sale.
>>>> Maybe I'll get an estimate on a package while I'm there. As you
>>>> probably are well-aware, alot of parts on a SawStop are priced
>>>> separately: the blade guard, and fence for instance.
>>>>
>>>> Bill
>>>
>>> I made my visit and bought my sharpening slips. I found out that the
>>> weekend 10% special on powertools doesn't apply to SawStop or Festool.
>>> Professional (not "Industrial") Sawstop with 36" table and 3 HP motor
>>> with fence and basic blade cover is $2899 + $200 for mobile base + $250
>>> for shipping + tax.
>>> Let's see, that comes to $3349 + 7% = $3583.43, but to be fair (in
>>> making comparisons), that includes the mobile base.
>>>
>>
>> To make it easier to compare, add to the price of the Unisaw to
>> compensate for not having a blade stop feature.
>>
>>
>
> Good point. That would be about $800 for the blade stop feature, or
> about 33% more. It wouldn't surprise me if Steve Gass used $1000 as a
> fulcrum (my term here, for deciding what consumers would/would not pay).
>
> If anyone else is keeping score, the SS does not include a cast iron
> "side table" (short extension table?) as standard on the 36" saw. "side
> table" may not be the right word.

FWIW few if any "new" 10" cabinet saws have cast iron right side
extension tables for the 50"+ rip capacity.

> Woodcraft emphasized that they could not change their pricing (due to
> their agreement with SawStop), but I expect that their $250 shipping fee
> might be negotiable.

This seems to contradict what they are telling you. Amazon/sold by
Woodcraft shows a mark down from $2719 to $2469.

http://www.amazon.com/SawStop-PCS175-TGP236-Professional-Assembly-extension/dp/B009C7NF0Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1350767825&sr=8-4&keywords=sawstop+cabinet+saw

"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Dave wrote:
>> On Sat, 20 Oct 2012 17:36:25 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Maybe the idea of having a short cast iron extension table is to mount a
>>> router on it? Do you suppose they come pre-cut/drilled?
>>
>> Not cast iron ones, at least not that I've ever seen or heard of.
>> However, I have drilled/jig sawed out a heavy cast iron table saw
>> extension before for use with a router. Along with using a heavy
>> flexible cut off wheel in a drill to grind away part of the extension
>> ribs underneath, the whole process took a little over an hour. Not
>> difficult, just a little tedious.
>>
>> Is an hour of your time and $1 for a cutoff sanding wheel worth your
>> effort if you have a cast iron table saw extension?
>>
>
> Thanks for the lesson!

MLCS sells cast irom tablesaw wings with router cutout.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/router_table4.html

On 10/18/2012 7:27 PM, Bill wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> On 10/18/2012 8:11 AM, Dave wrote:
>>> On Wed, 17 Oct 2012 14:41:02 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> list, but i wouldn't mind seeing a Delta UnisawStop (my term) show
>>>> up in
>>>> the marketplace.
>>>
>>> You're going to be waiting some 20 or so more years for that patent to
>>> expire.
>>>
>>
>>
>> And I think I would rather have the SawStop brand over the "Delta of
>> today" version.
>
> Maybe so. Sawstop has 2 tiers of quality just in their cabinet saws. The
> higher level one, at least, has several HP choices (3,5 and 7.5, IIRC).
> I'm going to visit Woodcraft this weekend for their 10 and 15% off sale.
> Maybe I'll get an estimate on a package while I'm there. As you
> probably are well-aware, alot of parts on a SawStop are priced
> separately: the blade guard, and fence for instance.
>
> Bill

Yes I was a aware about the fence and rip width capacity. Nice to have
a choice rather than have to pay for the basic fence that often needs to
be upgraded. No if only you did not have to buy the standard miter
gauge too. And the Osbourn that Delta is offering is just that, a
standard miter gauge.

On Sat, 20 Oct 2012 17:36:25 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:

>Leon wrote:
>
>> FWIW few if any "new" 10" cabinet saws have cast iron right side
>> extension tables for the 50"+ rip capacity.
>
>
>Maybe the idea of having a short cast iron extension table is to mount a
>router on it? Do you suppose they come pre-cut/drilled?

I think a router table is a short table wouldn't be what I wanted but
to each their own. Keep in mind Bill if you go over budget and it
hurts a little it's much better then not getting what ;you need and
having to do it again.

Mike M

On Sat, 20 Oct 2012 20:33:51 -0500, DanG <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 10/17/2012 6:54 PM, Mike M wrote:
>> On Wed, 17 Oct 2012 14:41:02 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Gramp's shop wrote:
>>>> On Tuesday, October 16, 2012 4:54:14 PM UTC-5, Zz Yzx wrote:
>>>>> I'm considering buying a used cabinet TS off Craig's List or whatever.
>>>
>>> You say "or whatever", but if you are looking for a cabinet saw (~500
>>> pounds), and don't have a truck with a lift gate, LOCATION counts for a
>>> lot.
>>>
>>> An important feature I didn't see in your list is a "quality fence".
>>> Good luck (I'm still in search of a TS myself)! Grizzly G690 is on my
>>> list, but i wouldn't mind seeing a Delta UnisawStop (my term) show up in
>>> the marketplace.
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>
>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Aside from the obvious:
>>>>>
>>>>> Overall condition, fit and finish
>>>>>
>>>>> Table flatness and condition
>>>>>
>>>>> Cranks, pulleys, &tc., smooth tilt and blade adjustment
>>>>>
>>>>> motor and wiring
>>>>>
>>>>> arbor run-out
>>>>>
>>>>> bearings
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> What else should I look for?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks a heap,
>>>>>
>>>>> -Zz
>>>>
>>
>> I'm pretty sure it was Swingman but he had the best idea I've seen if
>> you have no alternatives. He hired a flatbed tow truck it went very
>> well.
>>
>Have a good friend - he is younger and a big fella, who puts his Unisaw
>in the back of his pickup and takes and sets it up on site for finish
>work alone. Yes, they're heavy, but do tip upside down without ever
>requiring picking up the whole thing. They are much more stable upside
>down - no longer top heavy. He does have a short Biesmeyer on it.

I'd think that would be *very* hard on the cast iron top. I have to move mine
the last 100' (garage to basement) in our move from AL to GA, soon. I've been
told by everyone to be careful of the top.

On Sat, 20 Oct 2012 17:36:25 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Maybe the idea of having a short cast iron extension table is to mount a
>router on it? Do you suppose they come pre-cut/drilled?

Not cast iron ones, at least not that I've ever seen or heard of.
However, I have drilled/jig sawed out a heavy cast iron table saw
extension before for use with a router. Along with using a heavy
flexible cut off wheel in a drill to grind away part of the extension
ribs underneath, the whole process took a little over an hour. Not
difficult, just a little tedious.

Is an hour of your time and $1 for a cutoff sanding wheel worth your
effort if you have a cast iron table saw extension?

On Tue, 06 Nov 2012 20:31:12 -0500, [email protected] wrote:

>On Tue, 6 Nov 2012 19:20:08 -0500, "Twayne"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>...
>>>>> Have a good friend - he is younger and a big fella, who
>>>>> puts his Unisaw in the back of his pickup and takes and
>>>>> sets it up on site for finish work alone. Yes, they're
>>>>> heavy, but do tip upside down without ever requiring
>>>>> picking up the whole thing. They are much more stable
>>>>> upside down - no longer top heavy. He does have a
>>>>> short Biesmeyer on it.
>>>>
>>>> I'd think that would be *very* hard on the cast iron
>>>> top. I have to move mine the last 100' (garage to
>>>> basement) in our move from AL to GA, soon. I've been
>>>> told by everyone to be careful of the top.
>>
>>
>>...
>>
>>What do you mean by hard on a cast iron top? Breakage? Scratching? What. I
>>don't think I've ever seen a TS with a cast iron top - how common are they?
>
>Warp. You've never seen a TS with a cast iron top? I only know of a
>few with granite tops and some cheap ones with steel tops. ????
>
>
>>Personally, I'd just put a heavy blanket down, turn the saw over, and set it
>>on the blanket upside down. A furniture blanket would be best, but anything
>>for padding shoulc work. Otherwise, load it uprght and simply tie it in
>>place properly and voilA! No problem.
>
>What's the purpose of the blanket? It's not going over the ground
>that way!
>
>> If you do turn a saw upside down, clean out the sawdust and be sure any
>>motor mounts won't twist or otherwise be damaged from the vibrations. If the
>>motor is external, it's best to simply remove it and carry it separated from
>>the TS.
>
>It's a Unisaw. Nothing hanging outside but the bottom has wheels. ;-)

Tugging at the hook.

Mike M

On Wed, 17 Oct 2012 14:41:02 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>list, but i wouldn't mind seeing a Delta UnisawStop (my term) show up in
>the marketplace.

You're going to be waiting some 20 or so more years for that patent to
expire.

On 10/20/2012 4:32 PM, Bill wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> On 10/20/2012 3:26 PM, Bill wrote:
>>> Leon wrote:
>>>> On 10/20/2012 12:04 AM, Bill wrote:
>>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>>> Leon wrote:
>>>>>>> On 10/18/2012 8:11 AM, Dave wrote:
>>>>>>>> On Wed, 17 Oct 2012 14:41:02 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> list, but i wouldn't mind seeing a Delta UnisawStop (my term) show
>>>>>>>>> up in
>>>>>>>>> the marketplace.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> You're going to be waiting some 20 or so more years for that
>>>>>>>> patent to
>>>>>>>> expire.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> And I think I would rather have the SawStop brand over the "Delta of
>>>>>>> today" version.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Maybe so. Sawstop has 2 tiers of quality just in their cabinet saws.
>>>>>> The
>>>>>> higher level one, at least, has several HP choices (3,5 and 7.5,
>>>>>> IIRC).
>>>>>> I'm going to visit Woodcraft this weekend for their 10 and 15% off
>>>>>> sale.
>>>>>> Maybe I'll get an estimate on a package while I'm there. As you
>>>>>> probably are well-aware, alot of parts on a SawStop are priced
>>>>>> separately: the blade guard, and fence for instance.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Bill
>>>>>
>>>>> I made my visit and bought my sharpening slips. I found out that the
>>>>> weekend 10% special on powertools doesn't apply to SawStop or Festool.
>>>>> Professional (not "Industrial") Sawstop with 36" table and 3 HP motor
>>>>> with fence and basic blade cover is $2899 + $200 for mobile base +
>>>>> $250
>>>>> for shipping + tax.
>>>>> Let's see, that comes to $3349 + 7% = $3583.43, but to be fair (in
>>>>> making comparisons), that includes the mobile base.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> To make it easier to compare, add to the price of the Unisaw to
>>>> compensate for not having a blade stop feature.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> Good point. That would be about $800 for the blade stop feature, or
>>> about 33% more. It wouldn't surprise me if Steve Gass used $1000 as a
>>> fulcrum (my term here, for deciding what consumers would/would not pay).
>>>
>>> If anyone else is keeping score, the SS does not include a cast iron
>>> "side table" (short extension table?) as standard on the 36" saw. "side
>>> table" may not be the right word.
>>
>> FWIW few if any "new" 10" cabinet saws have cast iron right side
>> extension tables for the 50"+ rip capacity.
>
> I know that. But the SS has a short extension table made of something
> much lighter than cast iron before the extension table. The Professional
> edition is available in 30" and 36" (and 52"). It's probably just that
> 6" of the table between 30" and 36". It was pointed out to me that it is
> available in cast iron.
>
>
>>
>>> Woodcraft emphasized that they could not change their pricing (due to
>>> their agreement with SawStop), but I expect that their $250 shipping fee
>>> might be negotiable.
>>
>> This seems to contradict what they are telling you. Amazon/sold by
>> Woodcraft shows a mark down from $2719 to $2469.
>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/SawStop-PCS175-TGP236-Professional-Assembly-extension/dp/B009C7NF0Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1350767825&sr=8-4&keywords=sawstop+cabinet+saw
>>
>>
>
> That is a 1 3/4 HP version. This one looks closer:
>
> http://www.amazon.com/SawStop-PCS31230-TGP236-Professional-Assembly-extension/dp/B009C7NGTE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1350768702&sr=8-10&keywords=saw+stop+36-inch
>
>
Regardless, Woodcraft through Amazon is reducing their price, contrary
to what the guy at Woodcraft told you.

On Mon, 5 Nov 2012 12:01:36 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Oct 21, 6:40 pm, "[email protected]"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Sat, 20 Oct 2012 20:33:51 -0500, DanG <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >On 10/17/2012 6:54 PM, Mike M wrote:
>> >> On Wed, 17 Oct 2012 14:41:02 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >>> Gramp's shop wrote:
>> >>>> On Tuesday, October 16, 2012 4:54:14 PM UTC-5, Zz Yzx wrote:
>> >>>>> I'm considering buying a used cabinet TS off Craig's List or whatever.
>>
>> >>> You say "or whatever", but if you are looking for a cabinet saw (~500
>> >>> pounds), and don't have a truck with a lift gate, LOCATION counts for a
>> >>> lot.
>>
>> >>> An important feature I didn't see in your list is a "quality fence".
>> >>> Good luck (I'm still in search of a TS myself)!  Grizzly G690 is on my
>> >>> list, but i wouldn't mind seeing a Delta UnisawStop (my term) show up in
>> >>> the marketplace.
>>
>> >>> Bill
>>
>> >>>>> Aside from the obvious:
>>
>> >>>>>    Overall condition, fit and finish
>>
>> >>>>>    Table flatness and condition
>>
>> >>>>>    Cranks, pulleys, &tc., smooth tilt and blade adjustment
>>
>> >>>>>    motor and wiring
>>
>> >>>>>    arbor run-out
>>
>> >>>>>    bearings
>>
>> >>>>> What else should I look for?
>>
>> >>>>> Thanks a heap,
>>
>> >>>>> -Zz
>>
>> >> I'm pretty sure it was Swingman but he had the best idea I've seen if
>> >> you have no alternatives.  He hired a flatbed tow truck it went very
>> >> well.
>>
>> >Have a good friend - he is younger and a big fella, who puts his Unisaw
>> >in the back of his pickup and takes and sets it up on site for finish
>> >work alone.  Yes, they're heavy, but do tip upside down without ever
>> >requiring  picking up the whole thing.  They are much more stable upside
>> >down - no longer top heavy.  He does have a short Biesmeyer on it.
>>
>> I'd think that would be *very* hard on the cast iron top.  I have to move mine
>> the last 100' (garage to basement) in our move from AL to GA, soon.  I've been
>> told by everyone to be careful of the top.
>
>Break the saw down. Smaller pieces are easier to handle without
>damage. Wings and table are probably going to need to be
>reset, anyway.

Wings will have to be reset, as will the miter slot but breaking it
down into more easily manageable pieces is a *lot* of work. I got it
the first 70 miles in one piece (sans rails and side table), I think I
can get it the last 100'. I should have done it the first time but I
didn't know if I could get the U-Haul around back of the house (I can,
easily, and have several times since).

On 10/16/2012 4:54 PM, Zz Yzx wrote:
> I'm considering buying a used cabinet TS off Craig's List or whatever.
>
> Aside from the obvious:
> Overall condition, fit and finish
> Table flatness and condition
> Cranks, pulleys,&tc., smooth tilt and blade adjustment
> motor and wiring
> arbor run-out
> bearings
>
> What else should I look for?
...

Well, I'd start w/ make/model/electrics...

--

In article <[email protected]>,
Zz Yzx <[email protected]> wrote:
>What else should I look for?

American made.

--
-Ed Falk, [email protected]
http://thespamdiaries.blogspot.com/

Zz Yzx wrote:
> I'm considering buying a used cabinet TS off Craig's List or whatever.
>
> Aside from the obvious:
> Overall condition, fit and finish
> Table flatness and condition
> Cranks, pulleys, &tc., smooth tilt and blade adjustment
> motor and wiring
> arbor run-out
> bearings
>
> What else should I look for?


Horse power

220v capability

Availability of parts



--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Gramp's shop wrote:
> On Tuesday, October 16, 2012 4:54:14 PM UTC-5, Zz Yzx wrote:
>> I'm considering buying a used cabinet TS off Craig's List or whatever.

You say "or whatever", but if you are looking for a cabinet saw (~500
pounds), and don't have a truck with a lift gate, LOCATION counts for a
lot.

An important feature I didn't see in your list is a "quality fence".
Good luck (I'm still in search of a TS myself)! Grizzly G690 is on my
list, but i wouldn't mind seeing a Delta UnisawStop (my term) show up in
the marketplace.

Bill


>>
>>
>>
>> Aside from the obvious:
>>
>> Overall condition, fit and finish
>>
>> Table flatness and condition
>>
>> Cranks, pulleys, &tc., smooth tilt and blade adjustment
>>
>> motor and wiring
>>
>> arbor run-out
>>
>> bearings
>>
>>
>>
>> What else should I look for?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks a heap,
>>
>> -Zz
>
> I'd start with thinking about what saw I'd want if I were buying new, then look for that model in the pre-owned market. In addition to CL, you might want to watch IRS auctions in the event there is one close to you. They seem to specialize in surplus woodworking equipment.
>

Mike M wrote:

> I assume you know how to negotiate and let them use standby time to
> reduce the cost.
>
> Mike M
>

How does that work ("standby time")?

Bill

On 10/18/2012 9:11 AM, Dave wrote:
> On Wed, 17 Oct 2012 14:41:02 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>> list, but i wouldn't mind seeing a Delta UnisawStop (my term) show up in
>> the marketplace.
>
> You're going to be waiting some 20 or so more years for that patent to
> expire.
>

Surely there are other options. I believe $omething could be worked out

On 10/18/2012 12:19 PM, Dave wrote:
> On Thu, 18 Oct 2012 12:16:56 -0400, Bill <[email protected]>
>> Surely there are other options. I believe $omething could be worked out
>
> Loooong past that point after Gass visited the other table saw
> companies trying to get them to license his invention.
>

Borrowing perhaps from Yogi Berra, "The game's not over until it's
over..." : )

Leon wrote:
> On 10/18/2012 8:11 AM, Dave wrote:
>> On Wed, 17 Oct 2012 14:41:02 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> list, but i wouldn't mind seeing a Delta UnisawStop (my term) show up in
>>> the marketplace.
>>
>> You're going to be waiting some 20 or so more years for that patent to
>> expire.
>>
>
>
> And I think I would rather have the SawStop brand over the "Delta of
> today" version.

Maybe so. Sawstop has 2 tiers of quality just in their cabinet saws. The
higher level one, at least, has several HP choices (3,5 and 7.5, IIRC).
I'm going to visit Woodcraft this weekend for their 10 and 15% off sale.
Maybe I'll get an estimate on a package while I'm there. As you
probably are well-aware, alot of parts on a SawStop are priced
separately: the blade guard, and fence for instance.

Bill

Bill wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> On 10/18/2012 8:11 AM, Dave wrote:
>>> On Wed, 17 Oct 2012 14:41:02 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> list, but i wouldn't mind seeing a Delta UnisawStop (my term) show
>>>> up in
>>>> the marketplace.
>>>
>>> You're going to be waiting some 20 or so more years for that patent to
>>> expire.
>>>
>>
>>
>> And I think I would rather have the SawStop brand over the "Delta of
>> today" version.
>
> Maybe so. Sawstop has 2 tiers of quality just in their cabinet saws. The
> higher level one, at least, has several HP choices (3,5 and 7.5, IIRC).
> I'm going to visit Woodcraft this weekend for their 10 and 15% off sale.
> Maybe I'll get an estimate on a package while I'm there. As you
> probably are well-aware, alot of parts on a SawStop are priced
> separately: the blade guard, and fence for instance.
>
> Bill

I made my visit and bought my sharpening slips. I found out that the
weekend 10% special on powertools doesn't apply to SawStop or Festool.
Professional (not "Industrial") Sawstop with 36" table and 3 HP motor
with fence and basic blade cover is $2899 + $200 for mobile base + $250
for shipping + tax.
Let's see, that comes to $3349 + 7% = $3583.43, but to be fair (in
making comparisons), that includes the mobile base.

Leon wrote:
> On 10/20/2012 12:04 AM, Bill wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> Leon wrote:
>>>> On 10/18/2012 8:11 AM, Dave wrote:
>>>>> On Wed, 17 Oct 2012 14:41:02 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>> list, but i wouldn't mind seeing a Delta UnisawStop (my term) show
>>>>>> up in
>>>>>> the marketplace.
>>>>>
>>>>> You're going to be waiting some 20 or so more years for that patent to
>>>>> expire.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> And I think I would rather have the SawStop brand over the "Delta of
>>>> today" version.
>>>
>>> Maybe so. Sawstop has 2 tiers of quality just in their cabinet saws. The
>>> higher level one, at least, has several HP choices (3,5 and 7.5, IIRC).
>>> I'm going to visit Woodcraft this weekend for their 10 and 15% off sale.
>>> Maybe I'll get an estimate on a package while I'm there. As you
>>> probably are well-aware, alot of parts on a SawStop are priced
>>> separately: the blade guard, and fence for instance.
>>>
>>> Bill
>>
>> I made my visit and bought my sharpening slips. I found out that the
>> weekend 10% special on powertools doesn't apply to SawStop or Festool.
>> Professional (not "Industrial") Sawstop with 36" table and 3 HP motor
>> with fence and basic blade cover is $2899 + $200 for mobile base + $250
>> for shipping + tax.
>> Let's see, that comes to $3349 + 7% = $3583.43, but to be fair (in
>> making comparisons), that includes the mobile base.
>>
>
> To make it easier to compare, add to the price of the Unisaw to
> compensate for not having a blade stop feature.
>
>

Good point. That would be about $800 for the blade stop feature, or
about 33% more. It wouldn't surprise me if Steve Gass used $1000 as a
fulcrum (my term here, for deciding what consumers would/would not pay).

If anyone else is keeping score, the SS does not include a cast iron
"side table" (short extension table?) as standard on the 36" saw. "side
table" may not be the right word.

Woodcraft emphasized that they could not change their pricing (due to
their agreement with SawStop), but I expect that their $250 shipping fee
might be negotiable.

Leon wrote:
> On 10/20/2012 3:26 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Leon wrote:
>>> On 10/20/2012 12:04 AM, Bill wrote:
>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>> Leon wrote:
>>>>>> On 10/18/2012 8:11 AM, Dave wrote:
>>>>>>> On Wed, 17 Oct 2012 14:41:02 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>> list, but i wouldn't mind seeing a Delta UnisawStop (my term) show
>>>>>>>> up in
>>>>>>>> the marketplace.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> You're going to be waiting some 20 or so more years for that
>>>>>>> patent to
>>>>>>> expire.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> And I think I would rather have the SawStop brand over the "Delta of
>>>>>> today" version.
>>>>>
>>>>> Maybe so. Sawstop has 2 tiers of quality just in their cabinet saws.
>>>>> The
>>>>> higher level one, at least, has several HP choices (3,5 and 7.5,
>>>>> IIRC).
>>>>> I'm going to visit Woodcraft this weekend for their 10 and 15% off
>>>>> sale.
>>>>> Maybe I'll get an estimate on a package while I'm there. As you
>>>>> probably are well-aware, alot of parts on a SawStop are priced
>>>>> separately: the blade guard, and fence for instance.
>>>>>
>>>>> Bill
>>>>
>>>> I made my visit and bought my sharpening slips. I found out that the
>>>> weekend 10% special on powertools doesn't apply to SawStop or Festool.
>>>> Professional (not "Industrial") Sawstop with 36" table and 3 HP motor
>>>> with fence and basic blade cover is $2899 + $200 for mobile base + $250
>>>> for shipping + tax.
>>>> Let's see, that comes to $3349 + 7% = $3583.43, but to be fair (in
>>>> making comparisons), that includes the mobile base.
>>>>
>>>
>>> To make it easier to compare, add to the price of the Unisaw to
>>> compensate for not having a blade stop feature.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Good point. That would be about $800 for the blade stop feature, or
>> about 33% more. It wouldn't surprise me if Steve Gass used $1000 as a
>> fulcrum (my term here, for deciding what consumers would/would not pay).
>>
>> If anyone else is keeping score, the SS does not include a cast iron
>> "side table" (short extension table?) as standard on the 36" saw. "side
>> table" may not be the right word.
>
> FWIW few if any "new" 10" cabinet saws have cast iron right side
> extension tables for the 50"+ rip capacity.

I know that. But the SS has a short extension table made of something
much lighter than cast iron before the extension table. The Professional
edition is available in 30" and 36" (and 52"). It's probably just that
6" of the table between 30" and 36". It was pointed out to me that it is
available in cast iron.


>
>> Woodcraft emphasized that they could not change their pricing (due to
>> their agreement with SawStop), but I expect that their $250 shipping fee
>> might be negotiable.
>
> This seems to contradict what they are telling you. Amazon/sold by
> Woodcraft shows a mark down from $2719 to $2469.
>
> http://www.amazon.com/SawStop-PCS175-TGP236-Professional-Assembly-extension/dp/B009C7NF0Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1350767825&sr=8-4&keywords=sawstop+cabinet+saw
>

That is a 1 3/4 HP version. This one looks closer:

http://www.amazon.com/SawStop-PCS31230-TGP236-Professional-Assembly-extension/dp/B009C7NGTE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1350768702&sr=8-10&keywords=saw+stop+36-inch

Leon wrote:

> FWIW few if any "new" 10" cabinet saws have cast iron right side
> extension tables for the 50"+ rip capacity.


Maybe the idea of having a short cast iron extension table is to mount a
router on it? Do you suppose they come pre-cut/drilled?

On 10/17/2012 6:54 PM, Mike M wrote:
> On Wed, 17 Oct 2012 14:41:02 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Gramp's shop wrote:
>>> On Tuesday, October 16, 2012 4:54:14 PM UTC-5, Zz Yzx wrote:
>>>> I'm considering buying a used cabinet TS off Craig's List or whatever.
>>
>> You say "or whatever", but if you are looking for a cabinet saw (~500
>> pounds), and don't have a truck with a lift gate, LOCATION counts for a
>> lot.
>>
>> An important feature I didn't see in your list is a "quality fence".
>> Good luck (I'm still in search of a TS myself)! Grizzly G690 is on my
>> list, but i wouldn't mind seeing a Delta UnisawStop (my term) show up in
>> the marketplace.
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Aside from the obvious:
>>>>
>>>> Overall condition, fit and finish
>>>>
>>>> Table flatness and condition
>>>>
>>>> Cranks, pulleys, &tc., smooth tilt and blade adjustment
>>>>
>>>> motor and wiring
>>>>
>>>> arbor run-out
>>>>
>>>> bearings
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> What else should I look for?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks a heap,
>>>>
>>>> -Zz
>>>
>
> I'm pretty sure it was Swingman but he had the best idea I've seen if
> you have no alternatives. He hired a flatbed tow truck it went very
> well.
>
Have a good friend - he is younger and a big fella, who puts his Unisaw
in the back of his pickup and takes and sets it up on site for finish
work alone. Yes, they're heavy, but do tip upside down without ever
requiring picking up the whole thing. They are much more stable upside
down - no longer top heavy. He does have a short Biesmeyer on it.

--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven

Dave wrote:
> On Sat, 20 Oct 2012 17:36:25 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Maybe the idea of having a short cast iron extension table is to mount a
>> router on it? Do you suppose they come pre-cut/drilled?
>
> Not cast iron ones, at least not that I've ever seen or heard of.
> However, I have drilled/jig sawed out a heavy cast iron table saw
> extension before for use with a router. Along with using a heavy
> flexible cut off wheel in a drill to grind away part of the extension
> ribs underneath, the whole process took a little over an hour. Not
> difficult, just a little tedious.
>
> Is an hour of your time and $1 for a cutoff sanding wheel worth your
> effort if you have a cast iron table saw extension?
>

Thanks for the lesson!

On Sat, 20 Oct 2012 23:12:00 -0400, Dave wrote:

>>Maybe the idea of having a short cast iron extension table is to mount a
>>router on it? Do you suppose they come pre-cut/drilled?
>
> Not cast iron ones, at least not that I've ever seen or heard of.

While I haven't seen a cast iron extension set up for a router as
original equipment (except on the 3K Powermatic), they're certainly
available aftermarket. For example:

<http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/
router_table4.html>

--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.

Leon wrote:
> On 10/20/2012 4:32 PM, Bill wrote:

>> That is a 1 3/4 HP version. This one looks closer:
>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/SawStop-PCS31230-TGP236-Professional-Assembly-extension/dp/B009C7NGTE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1350768702&sr=8-10&keywords=saw+stop+36-inch
>>
>>
>>
> Regardless, Woodcraft through Amazon is reducing their price, contrary
> to what the guy at Woodcraft told you.

Yes, thank you for pointing that out. The last time I checked (a long
time ago), SawStopo saws were not listed on Amazon.

Bill

On 10/21/2012 6:40 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Sat, 20 Oct 2012 20:33:51 -0500, DanG <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 10/17/2012 6:54 PM, Mike M wrote:
>>> On Wed, 17 Oct 2012 14:41:02 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Gramp's shop wrote:
>>>>> On Tuesday, October 16, 2012 4:54:14 PM UTC-5, Zz Yzx wrote:
>>>>>> I'm considering buying a used cabinet TS off Craig's List or whatever.
>>>>
>>>> You say "or whatever", but if you are looking for a cabinet saw (~500
>>>> pounds), and don't have a truck with a lift gate, LOCATION counts for a
>>>> lot.
>>>>
>>>> An important feature I didn't see in your list is a "quality fence".
>>>> Good luck (I'm still in search of a TS myself)! Grizzly G690 is on my
>>>> list, but i wouldn't mind seeing a Delta UnisawStop (my term) show up in
>>>> the marketplace.
>>>>
>>>> Bill
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Aside from the obvious:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Overall condition, fit and finish
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Table flatness and condition
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Cranks, pulleys, &tc., smooth tilt and blade adjustment
>>>>>>
>>>>>> motor and wiring
>>>>>>
>>>>>> arbor run-out
>>>>>>
>>>>>> bearings
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> What else should I look for?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks a heap,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -Zz
>>>>>
>>>
>>> I'm pretty sure it was Swingman but he had the best idea I've seen if
>>> you have no alternatives. He hired a flatbed tow truck it went very
>>> well.
>>>
>> Have a good friend - he is younger and a big fella, who puts his Unisaw
>> in the back of his pickup and takes and sets it up on site for finish
>> work alone. Yes, they're heavy, but do tip upside down without ever
>> requiring picking up the whole thing. They are much more stable upside
>> down - no longer top heavy. He does have a short Biesmeyer on it.
>
> I'd think that would be *very* hard on the cast iron top. I have to move mine
> the last 100' (garage to basement) in our move from AL to GA, soon. I've been
> told by everyone to be careful of the top.
>


Tipped over flat on an old army blanket is probably a whole lot better
than any other method.
--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven

...
>>> Have a good friend - he is younger and a big fella, who
>>> puts his Unisaw in the back of his pickup and takes and
>>> sets it up on site for finish work alone. Yes, they're
>>> heavy, but do tip upside down without ever requiring
>>> picking up the whole thing. They are much more stable
>>> upside down - no longer top heavy. He does have a
>>> short Biesmeyer on it.
>>
>> I'd think that would be *very* hard on the cast iron
>> top. I have to move mine the last 100' (garage to
>> basement) in our move from AL to GA, soon. I've been
>> told by everyone to be careful of the top.


...

What do you mean by hard on a cast iron top? Breakage? Scratching? What. I
don't think I've ever seen a TS with a cast iron top - how common are they?

Personally, I'd just put a heavy blanket down, turn the saw over, and set it
on the blanket upside down. A furniture blanket would be best, but anything
for padding shoulc work. Otherwise, load it uprght and simply tie it in
place properly and voilA! No problem.
If you do turn a saw upside down, clean out the sawdust and be sure any
motor mounts won't twist or otherwise be damaged from the vibrations. If the
motor is external, it's best to simply remove it and carry it separated from
the TS.

HTH,

Twayne`

On 11/6/2012 7:20 PM, Twayne wrote:
> What do you mean by hard on a cast iron top? Breakage? Scratching? What. I
> don't think I've ever seen a TS with a cast iron top - how common are they?

It use to be the way a good table saw was made. My 10" Craftsman from
about 1969 has a cast iron top. As my father had a similar model
Craftsman I know it had a cast iron top and it was from the early 1950's

Both saws are running great. My brother has my father's but I know the
one I have the top looks nearly new, though it takes a lot of elbow
grease to keep it looking that way.

Leon wrote:

>
> As common as it gets.
>
> Have you seen a 4 door car?

4 doors??? No way! What will they think of next?

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Puckdropper wrote:
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:k7e1kv$sb6$1 @dont-email.me:
>
>> Leon wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> As common as it gets.
>>>
>>> Have you seen a 4 door car?
>>
>> 4 doors??? No way! What will they think of next?
>>
>
> Windows!

Can"t happen. Glass is too fragile and when it breaks, it is very sharp.
It could hurt somebody...

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Zz Yzx wrote:
> I'm considering buying a used cabinet TS off Craig's List or whatever.
>
> Aside from the obvious:
> Overall condition, fit and finish
> Table flatness and condition
> Cranks, pulleys,&tc., smooth tilt and blade adjustment
> motor and wiring
> arbor run-out
> bearings
>
> What else should I look for?
>
> Thanks a heap,
> -Zz
>
Price

--
G.W. Ross

If we can build a space shuttle, why
can't we build a decent mattress handle?

On 10/17/2012 6:54 PM, Mike M wrote:

> I'm pretty sure it was Swingman but he had the best idea I've seen if
> you have no alternatives. He hired a flatbed tow truck it went very
> well.

Not me ... I have indeed moved my Unisaw a few times, but rent a truck
with a TommyLift.


--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On Wed, 17 Oct 2012 14:41:02 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:

>Gramp's shop wrote:
>> On Tuesday, October 16, 2012 4:54:14 PM UTC-5, Zz Yzx wrote:
>>> I'm considering buying a used cabinet TS off Craig's List or whatever.
>
>You say "or whatever", but if you are looking for a cabinet saw (~500
>pounds), and don't have a truck with a lift gate, LOCATION counts for a
>lot.
>
>An important feature I didn't see in your list is a "quality fence".
>Good luck (I'm still in search of a TS myself)! Grizzly G690 is on my
>list, but i wouldn't mind seeing a Delta UnisawStop (my term) show up in
>the marketplace.
>
>Bill
>
>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Aside from the obvious:
>>>
>>> Overall condition, fit and finish
>>>
>>> Table flatness and condition
>>>
>>> Cranks, pulleys, &tc., smooth tilt and blade adjustment
>>>
>>> motor and wiring
>>>
>>> arbor run-out
>>>
>>> bearings
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> What else should I look for?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks a heap,
>>>
>>> -Zz
>>
>> I'd start with thinking about what saw I'd want if I were buying new, then look for that model in the pre-owned market. In addition to CL, you might want to watch IRS auctions in the event there is one close to you. They seem to specialize in surplus woodworking equipment.
>>
I'm pretty sure it was Swingman but he had the best idea I've seen if
you have no alternatives. He hired a flatbed tow truck it went very
well.

On Wed, 17 Oct 2012 16:54:13 -0700, Mike M
<[email protected]> wrote:


>>
>>You say "or whatever", but if you are looking for a cabinet saw (~500
>>pounds), and don't have a truck with a lift gate, LOCATION counts for a
>>lot.
>>
>>An important feature I didn't see in your list is a "quality fence".
>>Good luck (I'm still in search of a TS myself)! Grizzly G690 is on my
>>list, but i wouldn't mind seeing a Delta UnisawStop (my term) show up in
>>the marketplace.
>>
>>Bill
>>

>>> I'd start with thinking about what saw I'd want if I were buying new, then look for that model in the pre-owned market. In addition to CL, you might want to watch IRS auctions in the event there is one close to you. They seem to specialize in surplus woodworking equipment.
>>>
>I'm pretty sure it was Swingman but he had the best idea I've seen if
>you have no alternatives. He hired a flatbed tow truck it went very
>well.

I assume you know how to negotiate and let them use standby time to
reduce the cost.

Mike M

On Tue, 16 Oct 2012 15:59:40 -0700 (PDT), Sonny <[email protected]>
>When you go to inspect it, bring some boards and do some specific cuts and such. Not only see how it works, but feel how it works.

I'd also take a square with you, preferable a small one ~ 4" maybe. Do
a visual check of the trunnion and then 90° squareness of the blade
with it almost down and then all the way up to see if it changes.
That's often a good indication of trunnion problems too.

Question: How much is being asked for the saw and how much are you
willing to spend. There's successive degrees of table saw categories
dependent on what you're willing to spend.

On 10/18/2012 8:11 AM, Dave wrote:
> On Wed, 17 Oct 2012 14:41:02 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>> list, but i wouldn't mind seeing a Delta UnisawStop (my term) show up in
>> the marketplace.
>
> You're going to be waiting some 20 or so more years for that patent to
> expire.
>


And I think I would rather have the SawStop brand over the "Delta of
today" version.

On Sun, 21 Oct 2012 21:09:33 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 10/17/2012 6:54 PM, Mike M wrote:
>
>> I'm pretty sure it was Swingman but he had the best idea I've seen if
>> you have no alternatives. He hired a flatbed tow truck it went very
>> well.
>
>Not me ... I have indeed moved my Unisaw a few times, but rent a truck
>with a TommyLift.

I used a 5x8 UHaul trailer and some 1x10 ramps. It was pretty easy to load
and unload by myself. The back of the trailer is less than a foot off the
ground. It was easy to push up the ramps. I can only get a trailer about 10'
from the basement door, and not straight shot (it'll have to turn twice) so
that's going to be a bit more of a challenge.

On Wed, 17 Oct 2012 20:02:38 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:

>Mike M wrote:
>
>> I assume you know how to negotiate and let them use standby time to
>> reduce the cost.
>>
>> Mike M
>>
>
>How does that work ("standby time")?
>
>Bill

They have truck's ready to respond to emergencies. You get them to do
your job as filler work to help cover overhead. Don't expect them to
commit to hours of work without adequate compensation. Also you might
approach a few drivers and see if they are open to under the table
jobs.

Mike M

On Sun, 28 Oct 2012 10:45:33 -0500, DanG <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 10/21/2012 6:40 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Sat, 20 Oct 2012 20:33:51 -0500, DanG <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> On 10/17/2012 6:54 PM, Mike M wrote:
>>>> On Wed, 17 Oct 2012 14:41:02 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Gramp's shop wrote:
>>>>>> On Tuesday, October 16, 2012 4:54:14 PM UTC-5, Zz Yzx wrote:
>>>>>>> I'm considering buying a used cabinet TS off Craig's List or whatever.
>>>>>
>>>>> You say "or whatever", but if you are looking for a cabinet saw (~500
>>>>> pounds), and don't have a truck with a lift gate, LOCATION counts for a
>>>>> lot.
>>>>>
>>>>> An important feature I didn't see in your list is a "quality fence".
>>>>> Good luck (I'm still in search of a TS myself)! Grizzly G690 is on my
>>>>> list, but i wouldn't mind seeing a Delta UnisawStop (my term) show up in
>>>>> the marketplace.
>>>>>
>>>>> Bill
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Aside from the obvious:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Overall condition, fit and finish
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Table flatness and condition
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Cranks, pulleys, &tc., smooth tilt and blade adjustment
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> motor and wiring
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> arbor run-out
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> bearings
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> What else should I look for?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks a heap,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> -Zz
>>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I'm pretty sure it was Swingman but he had the best idea I've seen if
>>>> you have no alternatives. He hired a flatbed tow truck it went very
>>>> well.
>>>>
>>> Have a good friend - he is younger and a big fella, who puts his Unisaw
>>> in the back of his pickup and takes and sets it up on site for finish
>>> work alone. Yes, they're heavy, but do tip upside down without ever
>>> requiring picking up the whole thing. They are much more stable upside
>>> down - no longer top heavy. He does have a short Biesmeyer on it.
>>
>> I'd think that would be *very* hard on the cast iron top. I have to move mine
>> the last 100' (garage to basement) in our move from AL to GA, soon. I've been
>> told by everyone to be careful of the top.
>>
>
>
>Tipped over flat on an old army blanket is probably a whole lot better
>than any other method.

That's not going to work. Bumpy yard with a decent hill (down,
fortunately). I'll rent a U-Haul to get it to the back door. With
some judicious use of 2x10s it should go on its own wheels. I may
have to use some plywood sheets to get it to go over the carpeting
(dumb idea in a basement).

On Tue, 16 Oct 2012 14:54:30 -0700, Zz Yzx wrote:

> I'm considering buying a used cabinet TS off Craig's List or whatever.
>
> Aside from the obvious:
> Overall condition, fit and finish
> Table flatness and condition
> Cranks, pulleys, &tc., smooth tilt and blade adjustment motor and
> wiring
> arbor run-out
> bearings
>
> What else should I look for?
>
> Thanks a heap,
> -Zz

Broken trunnion

basilisk



--
A wink is as good as a nod to a blind horse