I have a cabinet with a plywood panel door. The plywood didn't look too
good when I finished it, and a year later it looks even worse. I have to
fix it.
I would just as soon not replace the frame it is in. My plan was to rout
the back off, remove the bad panel and put a better one in. I am not quite
sure how I was going to retain the new panel, but it can't be that hard.
But now I realize that to do this on a router table, I will have the work
between the bit and the fence. Last time I tried that I got a rather nasty
kick back; but I don't really see any other options.
I am tempted to forget it and take vinigar and water to the glue. Has
anyone ever succeeded at that?
Toller wrote:
> I have a cabinet with a plywood panel door. The plywood didn't look too
> good when I finished it, and a year later it looks even worse. I have to
> fix it.
>
> I would just as soon not replace the frame it is in. My plan was to rout
> the back off, remove the bad panel and put a better one in. I am not quite
> sure how I was going to retain the new panel, but it can't be that hard.
>
> But now I realize that to do this on a router table, I will have the work
> between the bit and the fence. Last time I tried that I got a rather nasty
> kick back; but I don't really see any other options.
Using my 'butcher first, fix last' technique I would:
Drill a hole in the plywood then cut around very close to the frame
leaving just a strip of plywood all the way around. Then maybe you
could grab the middle of the longest side and pull on it to get the
remaining plywood to break. Then you might be able to rout using a
bearing guided bit riding where the plywood used to be (or just
carefully chisel the frame).
Or:
Build a simple jig out of plywood with a fence (perpindicular piece)
for the router to ride against. Screw the door down to the jig through
the panel your are taking out so that the fence is the right distance
away and rout without fear of kickback. You could do some fancy
clamping and stop blocks but that is not true butchery.
>
> I am tempted to forget it and take vinigar and water to the glue. Has
> anyone ever succeeded at that?
Never tried.
>
> But now I realize that to do this on a router table, I will have the work
> between the bit and the fence. Last time I tried that I got a rather nasty
> kick back; but I don't really see any other options.
What about using the router out of the table?
Lay the frame face down, and use a straight edge. Position the straight
edge to the inside of the rail/stile so that the router base would ride
along the rail/stile. Set the bit to cut just deep enough to go through
the plywood panel. Do this for all 4 sides and the plywood panel will
drop out and you will be left with a nice clean rabbit (once you square
up the corners).
How about just trying to veneer over the ugly ply.
Toller wrote:
> I have a cabinet with a plywood panel door. The plywood didn't look too
> good when I finished it, and a year later it looks even worse. I have to
> fix it.
>
> I would just as soon not replace the frame it is in. My plan was to rout
> the back off, remove the bad panel and put a better one in. I am not quite
> sure how I was going to retain the new panel, but it can't be that hard.
>
> But now I realize that to do this on a router table, I will have the work
> between the bit and the fence. Last time I tried that I got a rather nasty
> kick back; but I don't really see any other options.
>
> I am tempted to forget it and take vinigar and water to the glue. Has
> anyone ever succeeded at that?
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a cabinet with a plywood panel door. The plywood didn't look too
>good when I finished it, and a year later it looks even worse. I have to
>fix it.
>
> I would just as soon not replace the frame it is in. My plan was to rout
> the back off, remove the bad panel and put a better one in. I am not
> quite sure how I was going to retain the new panel, but it can't be that
> hard.
>
> But now I realize that to do this on a router table, I will have the work
> between the bit and the fence. Last time I tried that I got a rather
> nasty kick back; but I don't really see any other options.
>
Usually the fact that my router table is TS wing is restrictive, but today
it let me put the TS fence 40" from the bit and run the frame against that.
It wasn't the world's smoothest cut, but not bad. I cut the corners out
with a multimate.
"Tvfarmer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How about just trying to veneer over the ugly ply.
I thought about that, but it didn't seem like a good project for my first
time veneering.
On the back, so the molding joints don't show??
Wilson
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I have a cabinet with a plywood panel door. The plywood didn't look too
>>good when I finished it, and a year later it looks even worse. I have to
>>fix it.
>>
>> I would just as soon not replace the frame it is in. My plan was to rout
>> the back off, remove the bad panel and put a better one in. I am not
>> quite sure how I was going to retain the new panel, but it can't be that
>> hard.
>>
>> But now I realize that to do this on a router table, I will have the work
>> between the bit and the fence. Last time I tried that I got a rather
>> nasty kick back; but I don't really see any other options.
>>
> Usually the fact that my router table is TS wing is restrictive, but today
> it let me put the TS fence 40" from the bit and run the frame against
> that. It wasn't the world's smoothest cut, but not bad. I cut the corners
> out with a multimate.
>
Toller wrote:
> I have a cabinet with a plywood panel door. The plywood didn't
> look too good when I finished it, and a year later it looks even
> worse. I have to fix it.
>
> I would just as soon not replace the frame it is in. My plan was
> to rout the back off, remove the bad panel and put a better one in.
> I am not quite sure how I was going to retain the new panel, but it
> can't be that hard.
It isn't, rout out the back (or front) of the frame so there is a
rabbet rather than a dado then "stick" the panel with molding.
--
dadiOH
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"Wilson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:MnoJg.680$v%[email protected]...
> On the back, so the molding joints don't show??
Oh, that would have been better, wouldn't it! (yes, of course on the
back...)
"Toller" wrote in message
> But now I realize that to do this on a router table, I will have the work
> between the bit and the fence. Last time I tried that I got a rather
nasty
> kick back; but I don't really see any other options.
Rout it out with a hand held router, and a guide clamped to the door to
guide the router.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/21/06