I recently got a grizzly G0555 with the riser block and am trying to
figure out what blade to get for resawing. It appears from looking
over the past postings here that people generally recommend either the
Timberwolf or the Woodslicer.
Now the recent Fine Woodworking article gave the Timberwolf fairly
poor ratings. It gave the Woodslicer very good ratings. And another
blade that nobody talks about, a blade made by Delta, also got good
ratings.
This leave me fairly puzzled. Another concern is that I noticed a
claim made in this group that the Woodslicer needs high tension, which
is hard on a wimpy saw like the G0555. (Is it worth upgrading the
spring with the Iturra?) Maybe the "low tension" feature is worth
something if it takes the strain off the saw. And furthermore, I read
somewhere that the lifespan of the Woodslicer blade is very very
short. Like it cuts great when new but after 30 minutes it doesn't
cut so well any more. The FWW review didn't consider blade wear.
That of course raises the question of whether the Supercut Carbide
impregnated blade is a good choice (though Lee Valley doesn't sell
105" blades for some reason). Or even straight carbide. I found an
article praising the Lenox Pro-Master III carbide, wherein it was
claimed that the this blade could do stuff that other blades couldn't.
http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive99/8_23mattband.html
People do talk about these blades liking high tension, which again
seems like a potential issue for a wimpy saw.
Does anybody have any insights into this?
On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 02:35:12 GMT, [email protected] (Adrian Mariano) wrote:
Excellent questions I am waiting for the "experts" reply.
By the way did you encounter any problems after you installed the riser block?
>I recently got a grizzly G0555 with the riser block and am trying to
>figure out what blade to get for resawing. It appears from looking
>over the past postings here that people generally recommend either the
>Timberwolf or the Woodslicer.
>
>Now the recent Fine Woodworking article gave the Timberwolf fairly
>poor ratings. It gave the Woodslicer very good ratings. And another
>blade that nobody talks about, a blade made by Delta, also got good
>ratings.
>
>This leave me fairly puzzled. Another concern is that I noticed a
>claim made in this group that the Woodslicer needs high tension, which
>is hard on a wimpy saw like the G0555. (Is it worth upgrading the
>spring with the Iturra?) Maybe the "low tension" feature is worth
>something if it takes the strain off the saw. And furthermore, I read
>somewhere that the lifespan of the Woodslicer blade is very very
>short. Like it cuts great when new but after 30 minutes it doesn't
>cut so well any more. The FWW review didn't consider blade wear.
>
>That of course raises the question of whether the Supercut Carbide
>impregnated blade is a good choice (though Lee Valley doesn't sell
>105" blades for some reason). Or even straight carbide. I found an
>article praising the Lenox Pro-Master III carbide, wherein it was
>claimed that the this blade could do stuff that other blades couldn't.
>http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive99/8_23mattband.html
>People do talk about these blades liking high tension, which again
>seems like a potential issue for a wimpy saw.
>
>Does anybody have any insights into this?
>
On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 17:10:47 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
>Call customer service at Suffolk -- I'll bet they will replace it, even
>without a receipt. From your description, it seems pretty clear that it's a
>manufacturing defect, and they should stand behind it, regardless of when or
>where you bought it.
Yeah it happened to me too, the replacement wasn't that good either so I'm now
looking for another blade. By the way the man on the Suffolk wasn't too happy
and demanded that I keep the bad blade for returned... they have not asked for
it yet!
On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 02:35:12 GMT, [email protected] (Adrian Mariano) wrote:
Do they have a website?
>I recently got a grizzly G0555 with the riser block and am trying to
>figure out what blade to get for resawing. It appears from looking
>over the past postings here that people generally recommend either the
>Timberwolf or the Woodslicer.
>
>Now the recent Fine Woodworking article gave the Timberwolf fairly
>poor ratings. It gave the Woodslicer very good ratings. And another
>blade that nobody talks about, a blade made by Delta, also got good
>ratings.
>
>This leave me fairly puzzled. Another concern is that I noticed a
>claim made in this group that the Woodslicer needs high tension, which
>is hard on a wimpy saw like the G0555. (Is it worth upgrading the
>spring with the Iturra?) Maybe the "low tension" feature is worth
>something if it takes the strain off the saw. And furthermore, I read
>somewhere that the lifespan of the Woodslicer blade is very very
>short. Like it cuts great when new but after 30 minutes it doesn't
>cut so well any more. The FWW review didn't consider blade wear.
>
>That of course raises the question of whether the Supercut Carbide
>impregnated blade is a good choice (though Lee Valley doesn't sell
>105" blades for some reason). Or even straight carbide. I found an
>article praising the Lenox Pro-Master III carbide, wherein it was
>claimed that the this blade could do stuff that other blades couldn't.
>http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive99/8_23mattband.html
>People do talk about these blades liking high tension, which again
>seems like a potential issue for a wimpy saw.
>
>Does anybody have any insights into this?
>
[email protected] (Adrian Mariano) wrote in message news:<A7wvc.13491$Tw.6102@lakeread06>...
> high tension, which is hard on a wimpy saw like the G0555.
Only a really poor saw can't achieve high tension. Many saws can only
do it on a fairly narrow blade, for it's not the tension we really
care about, it's the tensile force / area. Most "retail" saws can
only do it though by putting their wimpy springs close to the "locked
solid" state, and that's a really bad thing.
>(Is it worth upgrading the spring with the Iturra?)
Yes
I have a Wooodslicer. I hardly ever take it off my saw (a 16" MiniMax)
unless I need to go down to 1/4" for tight curves. I have several
Timberwolf blades as well (that I bought after using the WS), and I
don't like them. Thicker kerf, they don't cut as fast (or as clean),
they don't track as well, and they make about 3 times as much noise as
the WS.
Adrian Mariano wrote:
> This leave me fairly puzzled. Another concern is that I noticed a
> claim made in this group that the Woodslicer needs high tension,
PSHAW. My MiniMax is probably strong enough to snap the dang blade, but
I normally use low-to-moderate tension and it works great. I might
crank it up a bit if I'm resawing something tall, but nothing your saw
shouldn't be able to manage (especially after an Iturra upgrade). As
long as you get it tracking correctly, it shouldn't need significantly
more tension than any other blade.
> which
> is hard on a wimpy saw like the G0555. (Is it worth upgrading the
> spring with the Iturra?)
Yeah, probably a good idea. Not because the WS requires it for general
purpose use, but for resawing something taller than 6" it would help
with most any blade you use.
> And furthermore, I read
> somewhere that the lifespan of the Woodslicer blade is very very
> short. Like it cuts great when new but after 30 minutes it doesn't
> cut so well any more. The FWW review didn't consider blade wear.
One more PSHAW again. I've had my WS for almost 2 years now and it
still cuts great. I'm not a high-volume user, and I have no idea how
many board feet I've pushed through the saw, but enough to know that the
claim of a very short life span is false.
> That of course raises the question of whether the Supercut Carbide
> impregnated blade is a good choice (though Lee Valley doesn't sell
> 105" blades for some reason). Or even straight carbide. I found an
> article praising the Lenox Pro-Master III carbide, wherein it was
> claimed that the this blade could do stuff that other blades couldn't.
> http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive99/8_23mattband.html
> People do talk about these blades liking high tension, which again
> seems like a potential issue for a wimpy saw.
I considered going with a carbide blade at one time, but not since
getting the WoodSlicer. Even the MiniMax reps advised against it,
especially on the smaller saws (less than 18"). The blades are
necessarily thicker to provide support for the carbide, and the stress
of spinning a thick, tight-radius blade at high tension can cause the
welds to fail and the carbide tips start popping off. Not something you
want to have happen on such a high-dollar item.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, change the chemical designation to its common name.
On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 08:22:29 -0400, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:
> When I called to order a few years ago I asked about this and the lady
> sighed and said roughly "I know, I know!".
That's when you follow up with "Tell you what, let's work an exchange.
I'll build you a site and teach you how to use it, in exchange for goods."
Oh wait, that's how _I_ follow up, sometimes.
Dave "...when I have too much spare time..." Hinz
>I also haven't tried carbide, but I would not try that as a newbie, either.
>They are very expensive and relatively fragile (carbide chips easily).
>Unlike a table saw, you end up changing band saw blades relatively
>frequently, which can lead to damage with each change. I think carbide only
>makes sense if you have a dedicated saw that you can leave the blade on all
>the time and you have a really powerful motor. The carbide blades have a
>much wider kerf than standard blades, so it takes a lot more energy to cut
>through the wood. (Note that also means you turn a lot more wood into saw
>dust.)
A much wider kerf? What is the kerf of a standard blade? This seems
like information that is generally not supplied. The Woodslicer
claims 1/32" = 0.031 inches. The Lenox carbide is 0.056 inches
according to the review web page I cited. (The actual band is 0.025"
thick, the same as everybody else.) I could not determine the kerf on
the Timberwolf blades from their web page (except for the AS-S at
.048"). Nor could I determine the kerf of the lenox bi-metal blades.
Now the review I referred to made it sound like the carbide blade
opened up a whole new world for the reviewer even though he had a
small 14" saw like mine. In other words, he felt like he could do
stuff he couldn't do with the regular blades he'd tried before---not
that the carbide blade merely lasted longer. On thing that seemed
noteworthy was the claim that because the blade stays sharp it cuts
straight for a long time whereas other blades quickly start to cut
less straight as they dull. If true, this may be very useful for
veneer cutting, say, especially in abrasive woods. There's also this
in between blade, the carbide "impregnated" blade made by Supercut
that Lee Valley sells (for about $50). Somebody who posted to this
group liked this blade, but it doesn't seem to have been much talked
about.
>Another option is bi-metal blades. They cost about 3x as much as carbon
>steel and are supposed to last 10x as long. I have a Lenox, bi-metal, 1/2",
>4 tpi (Lenox Pro II) that I've been using as the main blade in my saw for
>about 9 months and it's still going strong. That includes resawing a lot of
>hard maple. I would prefer to have a bi-metal, 1/2", 3 tpi, but Lenox
>doesn't make one and I had a lot of trouble finding any other source for
>bi-metal blades. Of the blades that I've used, it seems to work the best
>for resawing. You don't have to worry about overheating the bi-metal blade.
>Also, since it dulls much more slowly than carbon steel, you end up
>adjusting for blade drift much less.
>If I were you, I'd order a either a carbon steel, 1/2", 3 tpi blade or a
>bi-metal, 1/2", 4 tpi blade, depending on your budget. If you go with
>carbon steel, then when it gets dull, you can decide if you want to spend
>the extra money on a bi-metal blade for the next one or just buy another
>carbon steel blade.
>Mark
>"Adrian Mariano" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:A7wvc.13491$Tw.6102@lakeread06...
>> I recently got a grizzly G0555 with the riser block and am trying to
>> figure out what blade to get for resawing. It appears from looking
>> over the past postings here that people generally recommend either the
>> Timberwolf or the Woodslicer.
>>
>> Now the recent Fine Woodworking article gave the Timberwolf fairly
>> poor ratings. It gave the Woodslicer very good ratings. And another
>> blade that nobody talks about, a blade made by Delta, also got good
>> ratings.
>>
>> This leave me fairly puzzled. Another concern is that I noticed a
>> claim made in this group that the Woodslicer needs high tension, which
>> is hard on a wimpy saw like the G0555. (Is it worth upgrading the
>> spring with the Iturra?) Maybe the "low tension" feature is worth
>> something if it takes the strain off the saw. And furthermore, I read
>> somewhere that the lifespan of the Woodslicer blade is very very
>> short. Like it cuts great when new but after 30 minutes it doesn't
>> cut so well any more. The FWW review didn't consider blade wear.
>>
>> That of course raises the question of whether the Supercut Carbide
>> impregnated blade is a good choice (though Lee Valley doesn't sell
>> 105" blades for some reason). Or even straight carbide. I found an
>> article praising the Lenox Pro-Master III carbide, wherein it was
>> claimed that the this blade could do stuff that other blades couldn't.
>> http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive99/8_23mattband.html
>> People do talk about these blades liking high tension, which again
>> seems like a potential issue for a wimpy saw.
>>
>> Does anybody have any insights into this?
>>
>>
I use the Suffolk blades, and they work fine for me on a Delta. I've had
one replaced in the last ten years for a weld problem. Tougher stuff like
carbide will last much better on abrasive exotics, no doubt.
My concern, given experience with a couple of 14" Grizzlies, is with the
saw, not the blade. Apparently they're a mixed lot. Be sure to check
_everything_ every time you make a change. Oh yes, I like a pivot, not a
full fence for resawing, and ceramic guides.
"Adrian Mariano" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:A7wvc.13491$Tw.6102@lakeread06...
> I recently got a grizzly G0555 with the riser block and am trying to
> figure out what blade to get for resawing. It appears from looking
> over the past postings here that people generally recommend either the
> Timberwolf or the Woodslicer.
>
George notes:
>Oh yes, I like a pivot, not a
>full fence for resawing, and ceramic guides.
Me, too, except I currently am using brass guides. Not too bad, if you can
accept the faster wear. Cheap. Buy bar brass in the proper size at almost any
metal shop and cut them yourself.
Charlie Self
"The test and the use of man's education is that he finds pleasure in the
exercise of his mind." Jacques Barzun
I've used wood and phenolic too, but the ceramics are especially handy when
cutting turning blanks, where all the pressure is against the inside guides.
They _don't_ wear, which is what I like. Soft ones are too fussy for such
heavy work.
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> George notes:
>
> >Oh yes, I like a pivot, not a
> >full fence for resawing, and ceramic guides.
>
> Me, too, except I currently am using brass guides. Not too bad, if you can
> accept the faster wear. Cheap. Buy bar brass in the proper size at almost
any
> metal shop and cut them yourself.
Yep, they did and will. Evidence is only the blade itself. Had a bad one
once.
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Call customer service at Suffolk -- I'll bet they will replace it, even
> without a receipt. From your description, it seems pretty clear that it's
a
> manufacturing defect, and they should stand behind it, regardless of when
or
> where you bought it.
Several years ago a magazine editor touted high tension as the wayyo
go. Shops were greeted with bearing replacement work and editor
reportedly was pounding pavement. I tried the ealier version
Woodslicer on the Rockwell 14" that needed high tension, read about
the fad the editor caused and tried Suffolk and haven't looked
further.
On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 02:35:12 GMT, [email protected] (Adrian Mariano)
wrote:
>People do talk about these blades liking high tension, which again
>seems like a potential issue for a wimpy saw.
On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 17:10:47 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>>On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 14:50:05 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
>>wrote:
>>
>>>In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>when I got my saw (18" parks) I bought some timberwolf blades for it.
>>>>today I took off the hardwood resaw one, vowing never to put it back
>>>>on, and replaced it with a lennox carbide one. the timberwolf blade
>>>>was welded crooked. it made a rythmic thumping noise while running and
>>>>often threw sparks off of the guides.
>>>
>>>Wondering why you didn't return [and continued to use] an obviously defective
>>>blade....
>>
>>I didn't mount that blade until I had had it a while and had lost the
>>reciept.
>
>Call customer service at Suffolk -- I'll bet they will replace it, even
>without a receipt. From your description, it seems pretty clear that it's a
>manufacturing defect, and they should stand behind it, regardless of when or
>where you bought it.
perhaps they would. I'm not enthusiastic about doing that, for a
couple of reasons.
first is the experience I had ordering the blade. the guy on the phone
was if not quite rude certainly not very helpful. He seemed to be a
little put out to have to deal with my insignificant little order of 3
blades and a set of new poly tires for an 18" bandsaw. there are
plenty of other vendors of bandsaw blades out there. I think I'll try
a different one next time.
secondly, if they send me another blade I'll have to use it for a
while too. A replacement from them might be better- or not. there are
plenty of brands of bandsaw blades out there. I think I'll try a
different one next time. in fact I have. the blade on there now is a
Lennox carbide tipped blade that makes a very nice cut.
Bridger
[email protected] wrote:
> first is the experience I had ordering the blade. the guy on the phone
> was if not quite rude certainly not very helpful. He seemed to be a
> little put out to have to deal with my insignificant little order of 3
> blades and a set of new poly tires for an 18" bandsaw. there are
> plenty of other vendors of bandsaw blades out there. I think I'll try
> a different one next time.
Almost my experience exactly. I think we must have talked to the same guy.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, change the chemical designation to its common name.
Agree. I got a blade prior to their "welding fix" several years ago
and called about the bumping blade and she commented "Got a bum weld
huh, we'll send a replacement" which they did. Seems the welding fix
regressed.
On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 17:10:47 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
wrote:
>Call customer service at Suffolk -- I'll bet they will replace it, even
>without a receipt. From your description, it seems pretty clear that it's a
>manufacturing defect, and they should stand behind it, regardless of when or
>where you bought it.
On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 14:50:05 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>when I got my saw (18" parks) I bought some timberwolf blades for it.
>>today I took off the hardwood resaw one, vowing never to put it back
>>on, and replaced it with a lennox carbide one. the timberwolf blade
>>was welded crooked. it made a rythmic thumping noise while running and
>>often threw sparks off of the guides.
>
>Wondering why you didn't return [and continued to use] an obviously defective
>blade....
I didn't mount that blade until I had had it a while and had lost the
reciept.
[email protected] (Andy Dingley) writes:
>[email protected] (Adrian Mariano) wrote in message news:<A7wvc.13491$Tw.6102@lakeread06>...
>> high tension, which is hard on a wimpy saw like the G0555.
>Only a really poor saw can't achieve high tension. Many saws can only
>do it on a fairly narrow blade, for it's not the tension we really
>care about, it's the tensile force / area. Most "retail" saws can
>only do it though by putting their wimpy springs close to the "locked
>solid" state, and that's a really bad thing.
I think the claim was not that saws could not achieve the high tension
but rather that it caused wear on bearings or other parts of the
machine.
condescending tripe! I doubt the poster appreciates your
rude comment. Besides, you are gonna need the time you use
to rudely answer posts to deal with me now.
dave
Doug Miller wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>when I got my saw (18" parks) I bought some timberwolf blades for it.
>>today I took off the hardwood resaw one, vowing never to put it back
>>on, and replaced it with a lennox carbide one. the timberwolf blade
>>was welded crooked. it made a rythmic thumping noise while running and
>>often threw sparks off of the guides.
>
>
> Wondering why you didn't return [and continued to use] an obviously defective
> blade....
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
>
> Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
> by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
> You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
>
>
"Stephen M" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have used both TW and WS blades and *much* prefer the WS. WS only comes
in
me too...
"Adrian Mariano" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:A7wvc.13491$Tw.6102@lakeread06...
> I recently got a grizzly G0555 with the riser block and am trying to
> figure out what blade to get for resawing. It appears from looking
> over the past postings here that people generally recommend either the
> Timberwolf or the Woodslicer.
>
> Now the recent Fine Woodworking article gave the Timberwolf fairly
> poor ratings. It gave the Woodslicer very good ratings. And another
> blade that nobody talks about, a blade made by Delta, also got good
> ratings.
>
> This leave me fairly puzzled. Another concern is that I noticed a
> claim made in this group that the Woodslicer needs high tension, which
> is hard on a wimpy saw like the G0555. (Is it worth upgrading the
> spring with the Iturra?) Maybe the "low tension" feature is worth
> something if it takes the strain off the saw. And furthermore, I read
> somewhere that the lifespan of the Woodslicer blade is very very
> short. Like it cuts great when new but after 30 minutes it doesn't
> cut so well any more. The FWW review didn't consider blade wear.
>
> That of course raises the question of whether the Supercut Carbide
> impregnated blade is a good choice (though Lee Valley doesn't sell
> 105" blades for some reason). Or even straight carbide. I found an
> article praising the Lenox Pro-Master III carbide, wherein it was
> claimed that the this blade could do stuff that other blades couldn't.
> http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive99/8_23mattband.html
> People do talk about these blades liking high tension, which again
> seems like a potential issue for a wimpy saw.
>
> Does anybody have any insights into this?
>
I have used both TW and WS blades and *much* prefer the WS. WS only comes in
1/2" and it is relatively thin. The (spring) pressure required for a given
tension (psi) is a proportional to the cross section of the blade. Since the
cross section is *thin* x 1/2" applying adequate tension should not be a
problem since your saw should theoretically be able to tension a normal
gauge 3/4" blade.
Buy the WS.
Sadly, I trashed my WS by hitting a nail in a reclaimed beam. I will be
replacing it eventually, when the TW blades just won't do.
-Steve
I don't own a table saw, so my band saw gets a lot of use. Below is what
I've gathered from reading too much and using my saw. As you have found,
there is a lot of conflicting information on this group and the web about
this issue.
I've never tried them, but the Woodslicers are supposed to be really good
because they have a really thin kerf and uneven spacing of teeth, which
reduces vibration. As a result, they are good if you are resawing highly
prized woods. At $30 a pop, I would definitely not start with them as a
newbie, especially since I would expect it to wear like a carbon steel
blade.
I also haven't tried carbide, but I would not try that as a newbie, either.
They are very expensive and relatively fragile (carbide chips easily).
Unlike a table saw, you end up changing band saw blades relatively
frequently, which can lead to damage with each change. I think carbide only
makes sense if you have a dedicated saw that you can leave the blade on all
the time and you have a really powerful motor. The carbide blades have a
much wider kerf than standard blades, so it takes a lot more energy to cut
through the wood. (Note that also means you turn a lot more wood into saw
dust.)
As far as carbon steel (or silicon steel), either Lenox or Timberwolf should
work fine. I have used both and I think the differences between them are
mostly in marketing. Timberwolfs are highly promoted, relatively easy to
find, and their website has a lot of information on it about band saw
blades. Lenox blades are more difficult to find and their website sucks.
You can order Lenox blades online at carbide.com. As I said, I've used both
and they seem to perform the same to me.
If you are using a carbon steel blade for resawing, then you need to be
really careful about not overheating the blade. Once you overheat it, which
is not that difficult to do when resawing, the teeth will loose their temper
and the blade will be worthless. The blade is dull if a) it starts drifting
really badly, b) the speed at which you can cut slows down significantly, or
c) you get a lot of burning when you are making straight cuts.
Another option is bi-metal blades. They cost about 3x as much as carbon
steel and are supposed to last 10x as long. I have a Lenox, bi-metal, 1/2",
4 tpi (Lenox Pro II) that I've been using as the main blade in my saw for
about 9 months and it's still going strong. That includes resawing a lot of
hard maple. I would prefer to have a bi-metal, 1/2", 3 tpi, but Lenox
doesn't make one and I had a lot of trouble finding any other source for
bi-metal blades. Of the blades that I've used, it seems to work the best
for resawing. You don't have to worry about overheating the bi-metal blade.
Also, since it dulls much more slowly than carbon steel, you end up
adjusting for blade drift much less.
If I were you, I'd order a either a carbon steel, 1/2", 3 tpi blade or a
bi-metal, 1/2", 4 tpi blade, depending on your budget. If you go with
carbon steel, then when it gets dull, you can decide if you want to spend
the extra money on a bi-metal blade for the next one or just buy another
carbon steel blade.
Mark
"Adrian Mariano" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:A7wvc.13491$Tw.6102@lakeread06...
> I recently got a grizzly G0555 with the riser block and am trying to
> figure out what blade to get for resawing. It appears from looking
> over the past postings here that people generally recommend either the
> Timberwolf or the Woodslicer.
>
> Now the recent Fine Woodworking article gave the Timberwolf fairly
> poor ratings. It gave the Woodslicer very good ratings. And another
> blade that nobody talks about, a blade made by Delta, also got good
> ratings.
>
> This leave me fairly puzzled. Another concern is that I noticed a
> claim made in this group that the Woodslicer needs high tension, which
> is hard on a wimpy saw like the G0555. (Is it worth upgrading the
> spring with the Iturra?) Maybe the "low tension" feature is worth
> something if it takes the strain off the saw. And furthermore, I read
> somewhere that the lifespan of the Woodslicer blade is very very
> short. Like it cuts great when new but after 30 minutes it doesn't
> cut so well any more. The FWW review didn't consider blade wear.
>
> That of course raises the question of whether the Supercut Carbide
> impregnated blade is a good choice (though Lee Valley doesn't sell
> 105" blades for some reason). Or even straight carbide. I found an
> article praising the Lenox Pro-Master III carbide, wherein it was
> claimed that the this blade could do stuff that other blades couldn't.
> http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive99/8_23mattband.html
> People do talk about these blades liking high tension, which again
> seems like a potential issue for a wimpy saw.
>
> Does anybody have any insights into this?
>
>
[email protected] (Wookie) writes:
>> >(Is it worth upgrading the spring with the Iturra?)
>>
>> Yes
>Anybody have a website/phone number for Iturra?? I also have the
>G0555 and would like to upgrade the spring
The phone number is 888 722 7078. They have a catalog (which hasn't
come yet). Supposedly they sell everything associated with band
saaws. It must be a small operation. The first couple times I called
the line was busy. But I did eventually get through and talk to
somebody. There does not appear to be a web site.
I asked him about blades. He said they sell lenox blades in carbon
steel, bimetal, and carbide. He said the only difference between
these blades was the longevity. They also sell a "woodslicer type"
blade which is allegedly obtained from the same source as the Highland
Hardware blade but it costs $20 instead of $30 for the 105" length.
This blade is carbon steel, but according to the Iturra guy it gives a
smoother finish than the other blades.
The Iturra guy also told me that the Grizzley G0555 saw apparently
exists in different incarnations with a different spring length, so
you need to measure your spring before you call.
On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 02:35:12 GMT, [email protected] (Adrian Mariano)
wrote:
>I recently got a grizzly G0555 with the riser block and am trying to
>figure out what blade to get for resawing. It appears from looking
>over the past postings here that people generally recommend either the
>Timberwolf or the Woodslicer.
>
>Now the recent Fine Woodworking article gave the Timberwolf fairly
>poor ratings. It gave the Woodslicer very good ratings. And another
>blade that nobody talks about, a blade made by Delta, also got good
>ratings.
>
>This leave me fairly puzzled. Another concern is that I noticed a
>claim made in this group that the Woodslicer needs high tension, which
>is hard on a wimpy saw like the G0555. (Is it worth upgrading the
>spring with the Iturra?) Maybe the "low tension" feature is worth
>something if it takes the strain off the saw. And furthermore, I read
>somewhere that the lifespan of the Woodslicer blade is very very
>short. Like it cuts great when new but after 30 minutes it doesn't
>cut so well any more. The FWW review didn't consider blade wear.
>
>That of course raises the question of whether the Supercut Carbide
>impregnated blade is a good choice (though Lee Valley doesn't sell
>105" blades for some reason). Or even straight carbide. I found an
>article praising the Lenox Pro-Master III carbide, wherein it was
>claimed that the this blade could do stuff that other blades couldn't.
>http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive99/8_23mattband.html
>People do talk about these blades liking high tension, which again
>seems like a potential issue for a wimpy saw.
>
>Does anybody have any insights into this?
>
when I got my saw (18" parks) I bought some timberwolf blades for it.
today I took off the hardwood resaw one, vowing never to put it back
on, and replaced it with a lennox carbide one. the timberwolf blade
was welded crooked. it made a rythmic thumping noise while running and
often threw sparks off of the guides.
It's been noted that one should be careful what one asks for as one
might get it.
On 10 Jun 2004 16:02:00 GMT, Dave Hinz <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 08:22:29 -0400, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:
>> When I called to order a few years ago I asked about this and the lady
>> sighed and said roughly "I know, I know!".
>
>That's when you follow up with "Tell you what, let's work an exchange.
>I'll build you a site and teach you how to use it, in exchange for goods."
>
>Oh wait, that's how _I_ follow up, sometimes.
>
>Dave "...when I have too much spare time..." Hinz
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 14:50:05 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
>wrote:
>
>>In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
> wrote:
>>>
>>>when I got my saw (18" parks) I bought some timberwolf blades for it.
>>>today I took off the hardwood resaw one, vowing never to put it back
>>>on, and replaced it with a lennox carbide one. the timberwolf blade
>>>was welded crooked. it made a rythmic thumping noise while running and
>>>often threw sparks off of the guides.
>>
>>Wondering why you didn't return [and continued to use] an obviously defective
>>blade....
>
>I didn't mount that blade until I had had it a while and had lost the
>reciept.
Call customer service at Suffolk -- I'll bet they will replace it, even
without a receipt. From your description, it seems pretty clear that it's a
manufacturing defect, and they should stand behind it, regardless of when or
where you bought it.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
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When I called to order a few years ago I asked about this and the lady
sighed and said roughly "I know, I know!".
On Wed, 09 Jun 2004 21:48:01 GMT, [email protected] (Adrian Mariano)
wrote:
>There does not appear to be a web site.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>
>when I got my saw (18" parks) I bought some timberwolf blades for it.
>today I took off the hardwood resaw one, vowing never to put it back
>on, and replaced it with a lennox carbide one. the timberwolf blade
>was welded crooked. it made a rythmic thumping noise while running and
>often threw sparks off of the guides.
Wondering why you didn't return [and continued to use] an obviously defective
blade....
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.