I'm just starting to build a TV stand. It is oak plywood and real oak for
the face frame, drawers and the top will have a 1" wide band of oak on the
perimeter. My plan was to attach them with a couple of biscuits to help hold
them in place and just glue and clamp. There is no stress or weight on the
edges when in use.
A few weeks ago Norm was adding edge to plywood but he cut a groove in the
wood and tongue in the plywood. I realize this is stronger, but is it
needed in a place that just stationary? Table top, chest lid, I'd do it;
but here can I pass?,
--
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
"Mike Hide" <[email protected]> wrote:
>The slot cutter cuts a slot 1/4 " and 1/4" deep . I usually make my slines
>out of hardwood out of hardwood . I run them on the TS a snug fit in the
>slot and a tad less than 1/2" wide. As you are using the top surface on both
>the ply and the edge molding as a register you end up with perfect surface
>fit .
<snip>
Great, thanks. I'm going to start my project as soon as I find the
"tad" mark on my ruler. ;-)
Michael
if you are using 4/4 oak on 3/4 oak ply then you keep it proud on both
faces, then use your flush trim bit. I do it all the time.
--
http://users.adelphia.net/~kyhighland
"Mike Hide" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Uyu0c.88832$4o.112012@attbi_s52...
>
> "KYHighlander" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > if you route the edge then you might hit the nails. Glue is all you need
> and
> > a few clamps. Then route to your hearts content.
>
> thats fine but what if the edging is a sixtyforth low in a spot or two,
sand
> it flush ? if so you are through the ply face veneer ....mjh
>
A few very good tips here but one thing that can bite you in the buns is not
being very careful to remove excess
glue if you are going to be staining
your project. It can be invisible even
after careful sanding, but will show up
if you wipe water or laquer thinner over
the joint. Best to wipe off excess
right away after clamping, with a wet
rag, if its white glue.
"Phisherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Probably. When I put an edge on my shelving, I cut a rabbet in the
> lip to give it more strength and more glue surface. The strength is
> in the glue--allow more time to cure than you think (at least
> overnight).
It is sitting in clamps right now. Had to get creative as I don't have any
clamps longer than 36" and this is 36 1/2". I have the clamps interlocked
to get extra length. No pretty, but it works.
Ed
"Mike Hide" <[email protected]> wrote:
<snip>
>I would have used a 1/4" rebate bit [slot cutter] with a bearing on both the
>molding and the ply and then inserted a 1/4"spline.
I'll be doing something similar soon. Can you give more details for
this newbie?
Does the 1/4" mean height of the cut?
How deep does it go, or does it matter?
What splines do you use - just a 1/4" wide strip you ripped on the TS?
Does soft or hardwood matter for the spline?
Should the spline be exactly 1/4" or slightly smaller to allow for the
glue?
Do you leave a gap at the back of the slot for the same reason?
Thanks,
Michael
The way I do it:
I glue a 4/4 piece of oak to the edge of the 3/4 plywood, clamping as
needed. After the glue cures I use a flush trim bit in my router to flush up
the 4/4 oak to the ply, will take some practice because you'll be using the
router base on the edge of the wood, trim router works better here. Then
clamp the piece down flat and route my profile on the strip of oak. works
great and if you watch the grain you can make it almost invisible.
KY
--
http://users.adelphia.net/~kyhighland
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm just starting to build a TV stand. It is oak plywood and real oak for
> the face frame, drawers and the top will have a 1" wide band of oak on the
> perimeter. My plan was to attach them with a couple of biscuits to help
hold
> them in place and just glue and clamp. There is no stress or weight on
the
> edges when in use.
>
> A few weeks ago Norm was adding edge to plywood but he cut a groove in the
> wood and tongue in the plywood. I realize this is stronger, but is it
> needed in a place that just stationary? Table top, chest lid, I'd do it;
> but here can I pass?,
>
> --
> Ed
> [email protected]
> http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
>
>
if you route the edge then you might hit the nails. Glue is all you need and
a few clamps. Then route to your hearts content.
--
http://users.adelphia.net/~kyhighland
"R. E. Engerman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:a%[email protected]...
> > "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > I'm just starting to build a TV stand. It is oak plywood and real oak
> for
> > > the face frame, drawers and the top will have a 1" wide band of oak on
> the
> > > perimeter. My plan was to attach them with a couple of biscuits to
help
> > hold
> > > them in place and just glue and clamp. There is no stress or weight
on
> > the
> > > edges when in use.
>
> Why not just nail them. Use the little ones with no head. I think they
are
> called finishing nails.
>
> Ralph Engerman
> R E Quick Transit
>
>
When I built my entertainment sectional, I just glued the trim pieces to the
plywood. I love Norm, but I think sometimes he makes more work for himself.
I really think he needs to get rid of that pink plat shirt.
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm just starting to build a TV stand. It is oak plywood and real oak for
> the face frame, drawers and the top will have a 1" wide band of oak on the
> perimeter. My plan was to attach them with a couple of biscuits to help
hold
> them in place and just glue and clamp. There is no stress or weight on
the
> edges when in use.
>
> A few weeks ago Norm was adding edge to plywood but he cut a groove in the
> wood and tongue in the plywood. I realize this is stronger, but is it
> needed in a place that just stationary? Table top, chest lid, I'd do it;
> but here can I pass?,
>
> --
> Ed
> [email protected]
> http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
>
>
>
"KYHighlander" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> if you route the edge then you might hit the nails. Glue is all you need
and
> a few clamps. Then route to your hearts content.
thats fine but what if the edging is a sixtyforth low in a spot or two, sand
it flush ? if so you are through the ply face veneer ....mjh
"KYHighlander" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> if you are using 4/4 oak on 3/4 oak ply then you keep it proud on both
> faces, then use your flush trim bit. I do it all the time.
good for you......mjh
The slot cutter cuts a slot 1/4 " and 1/4" deep . I usually make my slines
out of hardwood out of hardwood . I run them on the TS a snug fit in the
slot and a tad less than 1/2" wide. As you are using the top surface on both
the ply and the edge molding as a register you end up with perfect surface
fit .
Prior to running the cutter edge joint both the molding and ply as though
were just going to join the two together normally and trying for a perfect
joint . the spline does two things it locates the two pieces perfectly and
makes the joint considerably stronger [without the spline essentially half
of the ply surface is end grain not the best strength situation ]. Before
final glue up it is always prudent to dry fit the parts to make absolutely
sure the spline does not bottom out before the surface come together .
Glue and clamp enought to get squeeze out along the length of the joint.
clean up thoroughly with a damp cloth and ensure no glue is left on the
surface .[assuming you are using tightbond or the like]. Let dry overnight
and lightly sand with 150 or 180 paper .
And bobs you uncle and fanny's your aunt........mjh
"Michael Press" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Mike Hide" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <snip>
> >I would have used a 1/4" rebate bit [slot cutter] with a bearing on both
the
> >molding and the ply and then inserted a 1/4"spline.
>
> I'll be doing something similar soon. Can you give more details for
> this newbie?
>
> Does the 1/4" mean height of the cut?
> How deep does it go, or does it matter?
> What splines do you use - just a 1/4" wide strip you ripped on the TS?
> Does soft or hardwood matter for the spline?
> Should the spline be exactly 1/4" or slightly smaller to allow for the
> glue?
> Do you leave a gap at the back of the slot for the same reason?
>
> Thanks,
> Michael
> "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I'm just starting to build a TV stand. It is oak plywood and real oak
for
> > the face frame, drawers and the top will have a 1" wide band of oak on
the
> > perimeter. My plan was to attach them with a couple of biscuits to help
> hold
> > them in place and just glue and clamp. There is no stress or weight on
> the
> > edges when in use.
Why not just nail them. Use the little ones with no head. I think they are
called finishing nails.
Ralph Engerman
R E Quick Transit
> I'm just starting to build a TV stand. It is oak plywood and real oak for
> the face frame, drawers and the top will have a 1" wide band of oak on the
> perimeter. My plan was to attach them with a couple of biscuits to help
hold
> them in place and just glue and clamp. There is no stress or weight on
the
> edges when in use.
>
> A few weeks ago Norm was adding edge to plywood but he cut a groove in the
> wood and tongue in the plywood. I realize this is stronger, but is it
> needed in a place that just stationary? Table top, chest lid, I'd do it;
> but here can I pass?,
>
Glue & pocket hole screws do the trick for me.
Ron
Biscuits are plenty. However, something you may or may not have considered.
Veneered plywoods tend to be a bit inconsistent in thickness. While this
normally does not show, wait until you put a piece hard wood up to it. You
will probably see the inconsistent high and low spots on the plywood. Yes,
you can sand the 2 surfaces after glue up but sometimes the veneer gets
sanded away.
I make a relief cut and or tiny rabbet all the way around each plywood
panel usually with the TS and about 1/16" wide by 1/16" deep. This will
create a nice visual detail along with dealing with the union of plywood to
hard wood.
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm just starting to build a TV stand. It is oak plywood and real oak for
> the face frame, drawers and the top will have a 1" wide band of oak on the
> perimeter. My plan was to attach them with a couple of biscuits to help
hold
> them in place and just glue and clamp. There is no stress or weight on
the
> edges when in use.
>
> A few weeks ago Norm was adding edge to plywood but he cut a groove in the
> wood and tongue in the plywood. I realize this is stronger, but is it
> needed in a place that just stationary? Table top, chest lid, I'd do it;
> but here can I pass?,
>
> --
> Ed
> [email protected]
> http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
>
>
Well I can't believe the carpenter has done something partially correct.
I would have used a 1/4" rebate bit [slot cutter] with a bearing on both the
molding and the ply and then inserted a 1/4"spline.
Why you ask, because every thing aligns perfectly all along the joint.
Changing cutters can result in joint misalignment, the biscuits work locally
,but in between possible misalignment can occur.
because of the thinness of the ply the face veneer, the surface of the
molding and the ply need to be perfect so when cleaning up the joint you do
not sand through.....mjh
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm just starting to build a TV stand. It is oak plywood and real oak for
> the face frame, drawers and the top will have a 1" wide band of oak on the
> perimeter. My plan was to attach them with a couple of biscuits to help
hold
> them in place and just glue and clamp. There is no stress or weight on
the
> edges when in use.
>
> A few weeks ago Norm was adding edge to plywood but he cut a groove in the
> wood and tongue in the plywood. I realize this is stronger, but is it
> needed in a place that just stationary? Table top, chest lid, I'd do it;
> but here can I pass?,
>
> --
> Ed
> [email protected]
> http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
>
>
On Sun, 29 Feb 2004 04:56:52 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I'm just starting to build a TV stand. It is oak plywood and real oak for
>the face frame, drawers and the top will have a 1" wide band of oak on the
>perimeter. My plan was to attach them with a couple of biscuits to help hold
>them in place and just glue and clamp. There is no stress or weight on the
>edges when in use.
>
>A few weeks ago Norm was adding edge to plywood but he cut a groove in the
>wood and tongue in the plywood. I realize this is stronger, but is it
>needed in a place that just stationary? Table top, chest lid, I'd do it;
>but here can I pass?,
Probably. When I put an edge on my shelving, I cut a rabbet in the
lip to give it more strength and more glue surface. The strength is
in the glue--allow more time to cure than you think (at least
overnight).
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm just starting to build a TV stand. It is oak plywood and real oak for
> the face frame, drawers and the top will have a 1" wide band of oak on the
> perimeter. My plan was to attach them with a couple of biscuits to help
hold
> them in place and just glue and clamp. There is no stress or weight on
the
> edges when in use.
>
> A few weeks ago Norm was adding edge to plywood but he cut a groove in the
> wood and tongue in the plywood. I realize this is stronger, but is it
> needed in a place that just stationary? Table top, chest lid, I'd do it;
> but here can I pass?,
I've done it both ways. Although 1" is thicker than most edge banding I do,
IME, your biscuits will serve the purpose quite well.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/28/04
"Michael Press" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Great, thanks. I'm going to start my project as soon as I find the
> "tad" mark on my ruler. ;-)
>
> Michael
Look between the marks for Damn, too long and Oh, S#$t
Ed