THIS MESSAGE GOT BOLTED ON TO ANOTHER MESSAGE THANKS FOR FEEDBACK.
I am in a newly built home in Western New York. I just bought the new
Rigid table saw from Home Depot - not a Powermatic but good enough for
me. I have two questions:
STUD PLATE:
I need to wire a small shop. I have single outlet at the panel. I
will need walls to attach wires (see errata below for reasons). I
want to glue the P.T. stud plate. I saw a message thread that talked
about gluing the stud plate to the floor rather than nailing it(I have
used a Hilti gun and it obliterates the concrete). How much and what
type of glue is needed. I am also planning to paint the floor before
affixing stud plate.
OUTLET TYPE:
Should I use box outlets or should I use a strip?
ERRATA:
As per code here - I have an insulated vapor barrier down 75% of the
wall. It extends out approximately three inches from the wall. I
also have a floating slab meaning there is a two inch gap between the
wall and the slab that allows for drainage all flowing into the sump.
The shop has the sump - bummer. I like the idea of a 4x4 notched
plate.
STUD PLATE... I would never glue a plate to a floor and I can
appreciate what you encounter by firing a Hilt i into concrete. I
have 100 % success with affixing plates to concrete with a simple lag
screw and matching molly. Some 15 years ago I attached a long hand
rail in the middle of a wide corridor to a terrazzo floor in a middle
school no less... using 3/8" x 3" lag screws and the long hand rail is
still in place as solid as the day I installed it.
Besides, once you paint your floor any glue will have to stick to the
paint successfully and the paint to the floor successfully.
I would opt for the lag screw idea... I've installed many, many feet
[ miles ! ] of plates to floors over the course of my life and I have
tried virtually every means of attaching plates to concrete... nothing
works as well as a lag screw with matching molly.
OUTLET TYPE... as long as you use the 3 prong strip type with the
grounding socket you will do well, I would say. In other words, there
is ( or was ) a cheezy variety of outlet strip... surface mounted...
with just a hot strip and a neutral strip... impossible to plug in a 3
pronged machine. Anyway, there's a lot less wiring to do with a long
strip as opposed to putting in a number of individual outlet boxes...
make it easy on yourself...yet safe for yourself.
ETCETERA... sounds like a ' French Drain ' application in your
basement. If the sump pump comes above the floor then get a
submersible pump and put a suitable cover over it so someone wont fall
into the hole. ( Nothing in this world is easy ! ) I'm quessing you
anticipate a water problem in the interior of the basement whereas
water needs to be channeled to the basement walls then to the sump.
The basement floor should have been ' crowned ' when first built so
water would be diverted towards the walls / sump. But you're putting
up some wall and want the water to get past the plates to the space
between the slab and the basement walls. I hope I'm understanding you
post correctly.... if so, I would say this : you are calculating
diverting water past the plates because you want to glue your plates
to the floor thus sealing you in... but water will get under the plate
idea I gave you... the lag screw / molly idea. Use treated lumber
where wood meets concrete because of dampness. You can cut a notch to
the bottoms of your plates to act as a ' spill way ' for water to pass
unobstructed if you think that will get you through. If your basement
has a water problem then don't let any sheetrock go below the
waterline since it acts like a siphon.
On 23 Dec 2003 19:09:32 -0800, [email protected] (Keith Bozek) wrote:
>THIS MESSAGE GOT BOLTED ON TO ANOTHER MESSAGE THANKS FOR FEEDBACK.
>
>
>I am in a newly built home in Western New York. I just bought the new
>Rigid table saw from Home Depot - not a Powermatic but good enough for
>me. I have two questions:
>
>
>STUD PLATE:
>I need to wire a small shop. I have single outlet at the panel. I
>will need walls to attach wires (see errata below for reasons). I
>want to glue the P.T. stud plate. I saw a message thread that talked
>about gluing the stud plate to the floor rather than nailing it(I have
>used a Hilti gun and it obliterates the concrete). How much and what
>type of glue is needed. I am also planning to paint the floor before
>affixing stud plate.
>
>OUTLET TYPE:
>Should I use box outlets or should I use a strip?
>
>ERRATA:
>As per code here - I have an insulated vapor barrier down 75% of the
>wall. It extends out approximately three inches from the wall. I
>also have a floating slab meaning there is a two inch gap between the
>wall and the slab that allows for drainage all flowing into the sump.
>The shop has the sump - bummer. I like the idea of a 4x4 notched
>plate.
Thanks for the response:
The lag molly--> What length and dimension would you suggest and what
type of molly - plastic or metal? I am also assuming that I should
rent or obtain a hammer drill with a carbide bit? Also, any lessons
learned or suggestions for common issues that I might run into would
be great too.
I am going to use 2x4 P.T. stock and I think drilling some space holes
is also a good idea in the event of a catasrophic flow.
I have no grass yet just a little seepage. Code here requires
floating slab and sump. Being near one of the great lakes (Ontario)
there is lot of soil differences thanks to glacial till.... It varies
greatly in the town I live in. My soil is more of a silty loam while
not far down the road it is clay.