Source For Wood Screws (For Hinges)

> >> Using a "Vix"-type bit or a sure hand, make sure the screws' heads are
> >> flush and square, and that there's no "hingebind," and they'll swing
> >> properly forever.
> >
> >Had never heard of a vix bit before, but I looked on Amazon, and they
seem
> >like just what I need, and a good investment for the money.
>
> They make centering the screw in the hole so easy to do that it ought
> to be illegal! :-)
I have a DeWalt branded 3 piece set of these..S-M-L ? <G>
Comes in a small case like the flip type "drill & drive" DW2070. In fact,
uses the same chuck mount 'flip' gizmo.

R

>
> Make sure you get the hex shaft...the orginal Vix had a round one and I
> have no use for it.
> --

Thanks. Looks like the ones at amazon have the round shaft. I'll keep
looking.


http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000224LD/103-5465124-5790230?%5Fencoding=UTF8&coliid=I2BQMLM72QVQSE&colid=1I2CF9NSCWPRX

Buck Turgidson writes:

>I am going to replace the hollow interior doors in my house with solid pine.
>In the hinge section at Home Despot, Stanley only has #9 screws at 1"
>length. I would think that, even with 3 hinges, I want longer screws so
>that some or all go into the studs, but HD only has #8 and #10 at various
>lengths in the screw aisle.
>
>#10 doesn't look too bad on the hinge, but I prefer #9 if I can get them,
>since they fit perfect flush on the hinge. Anyone have a good source for
>these? Need brass Phillips.
>
>Also, I am curious if I should consider the square drive (Tor-x ?) screws on
>the hinges.

I don't know where you'll find #9. McFeely's has #10 solid brass up to 1-3/4"
long, #8 the same. They've got silicon bronze in lengths to 3" in #10. If that
doesn't reach your framing, then there's a problem. These are boatbuilding
screws and are not cheap (100 #10 x 3" is about $38.50, plus shipping).

I doubt you really want solid brass, anyway. Plated is stronger. McFeely's has
those in #8 x 2" for $6.89 per 100, or you might try ayellow zinc plated flat
head, #10 x 3" at $10.31 per hundred. Check www.mcfeelys.com

These are square drive, NOT Torx.

Charlie Self
"In our civilization, and under our republican form of government, intelligence
is so highly honored that it is rewarded by exemption from the cares of
office." Ambrose Bierce

"Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> wrote in message

> Thanks. Looks like I'll have to bookmark that site. When they say brass,
> do they mean real brass, or brass finish? I wonder if brass will be too
> soft?

I'm guessing real brass. Of course, there are different qualities as I
found out a couple of months ago. I'd be very careful driving brass
screws. You want to have a proper sized pilot hole. You may want to drive
in a steel screw first, then the brass or at least use some lube.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
.

Buck Turgidson wrote:
> I am going to replace the hollow interior doors in my house with
> solid pine. In the hinge section at Home Despot, Stanley only has #9
> screws at 1" length. I would think that, even with 3 hinges, I want
> longer screws so that some or all go into the studs, but HD only has
> #8 and #10 at various lengths in the screw aisle.
>
> #10 doesn't look too bad on the hinge, but I prefer #9 if I can get
> them, since they fit perfect flush on the hinge. Anyone have a good
> source for these? Need brass Phillips.
>
> Also, I am curious if I should consider the square drive (Tor-x ?)
> screws on the hinges.

You can always use drywall or deck screws. HD has plenty of these though
the color may not be what you want. Typically only one long screw per hinge
will be enough.

Gary

"Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Dgpnc.111077$f_5.47553@lakeread01...
> I am going to replace the hollow interior doors in my house with solid
pine.
> In the hinge section at Home Despot, Stanley only has #9 screws at 1"
> length. I would think that, even with 3 hinges, I want longer screws so
> that some or all go into the studs, but HD only has #8 and #10 at various
> lengths in the screw aisle.
>
> #10 doesn't look too bad on the hinge, but I prefer #9 if I can get them,
> since they fit perfect flush on the hinge. Anyone have a good source for
> these? Need brass Phillips.
>
> Also, I am curious if I should consider the square drive (Tor-x ?) screws
on
> the hinges.


You will find them up to 3" long at www.mcmaster.com Very few places carry
the #9 screws that I'm aware of. Home Depot only carries things the masses
will buy, not what everyone needs.

They are only listed in Phillips head and slotted so your decision is
already made. Square drive is nice, and I've not seen Torx drive.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome

> Using a "Vix"-type bit or a sure hand, make sure the screws' heads are
> flush and square, and that there's no "hingebind," and they'll swing
> properly forever.

Had never heard of a vix bit before, but I looked on Amazon, and they seem
like just what I need, and a good investment for the money.

>
> If the jambs are installed correctly hinge screws into the studs is
> worse than overkill. If the jambs aren't shimmed and true, screwing into
> the studs will simply distort the frame.

Interesting. Never thought of that. Thanks for advice. I guess I will try
as you suggest and do the first door with the 1" and see how it seems.
Although I guess you never really know until it falls off the hinges....;)

> You will find them up to 3" long at www.mcmaster.com Very few places
carry
> the #9 screws that I'm aware of. Home Depot only carries things the
masses
> will buy, not what everyone needs.
>
> They are only listed in Phillips head and slotted so your decision is
> already made. Square drive is nice, and I've not seen Torx drive.
> Ed

Thanks. Looks like I'll have to bookmark that site. When they say brass,
do they mean real brass, or brass finish? I wonder if brass will be too
soft?

"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jim Stuyck wrote:
>
> >
> > "Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:Dgpnc.111077$f_5.47553@lakeread01...
> >> I am going to replace the hollow interior doors in my house with solid
> > pine.
> >> In the hinge section at Home Despot, Stanley only has #9 screws at 1"
> >> length. I would think that, even with 3 hinges, I want longer screws
so
> >> that some or all go into the studs, but HD only has #8 and #10 at
various
> >> lengths in the screw aisle.
> >
> > Hmmm...ONLY concerned about screws long enough to go into
> > the studs, but not about the screws that go into the doors? Think
> > about it. ;-)
>
> Think about it further. The screw that goes into the door goes directly
> into structure. The screw that goes into the stud has to go through the
> door frame, first and then possibly a block or even an air space before it
> gets to the stud that is the actual structural member. Hence longer
screws
> are usually needed on that side.

Yes, I did think about it (before posting). The "single long screw" per
hinge, on the stud side, is done on exterior doors for added security,
so that the door frame can't be broken loose (or simply broken). In
my experience, such precautions aren't taken on interior doors. My
thinking remains that three screws per hinge, into the frame on interior
doors is sufficient. Take the 1" screws the poster located. They go
into only 1/4" less material on the frame side (OK, maybe 5/16" less)
than those on the door side.

Perhaps an experiment is in order? Hang the door with three hinges,
each with three 1" screws into the frame, then hang on it. See what
happens. ;-) Don't even need to do it with those solid doors, just
hang on the doors already there (with two hinges?). Nothing ventured,
nothing gained.

I surely am happier to discuss screws and hinges and doors rather
than the "f-word."

Jim Stuyck

"Wm Jones" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I have seen it on pre-hung units.


I have only seen the fasteners being sold by the piece. Could we be talking
about 2 different fasteners?


> It is a slick but inferior substitute for shimming and fixing, whether
> with proper nails or screws.

When I saw the fasteners being used, shims were still being used. The
fastener eleminates the threads of a screw from biting into the jamb.




> --
> Doors - Locks - Weatherstripping
> POB 250121 Atlanta GA 30325
> 404/626-2840
>

"patriarch [email protected]>" <<patriarch> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I'm not an expert in this area (or many others, but what does that
> matter?). However, in ordering from the newly arrived McFeely's catalog,
I
> ran across something which MIGHT be what you're asking about. Check out
> the Promax 305 stainless steel deck screw, to see if that geometry might
do
> the trick for you. They almost certainly have the same screw in another
> material.
>
> If not, they would likely have a suggestion to fit your need.


The fastener that I am looking for is similar to a threaded insert that
allows its inner screw to tighten or loosen as necessary with out the
tightening part of the fastener actually threading into the door jamb wood.
Often when using common screws the head of the screw comes in contact with
the door jamb before the screw has tightened the jamb up against the shims.
With the special fastener, the tightening part of the fastener can continue
to adjust with out ever bottoming out against the jamb, IIRC.

Thanks for the information.

"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

>
> "Wm Jones" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> I have seen it on pre-hung units.
>
>
> I have only seen the fasteners being sold by the piece. Could we be
> talking about 2 different fasteners?
>
>
>> It is a slick but inferior substitute for shimming and fixing,
>> whether with proper nails or screws.
>
> When I saw the fasteners being used, shims were still being used. The
> fastener eleminates the threads of a screw from biting into the jamb.
>
>
>
>
>> --
>> Doors - Locks - Weatherstripping
>> POB 250121 Atlanta GA 30325
>> 404/626-2840
>>
>
>
>

I'm not an expert in this area (or many others, but what does that
matter?). However, in ordering from the newly arrived McFeely's catalog, I
ran across something which MIGHT be what you're asking about. Check out
the Promax 305 stainless steel deck screw, to see if that geometry might do
the trick for you. They almost certainly have the same screw in another
material.

If not, they would likely have a suggestion to fit your need.

Patriarch

> Perhaps an experiment is in order? Hang the door with three hinges,
> each with three 1" screws into the frame, then hang on it. See what
> happens. ;-) Don't even need to do it with those solid doors, just
> hang on the doors already there (with two hinges?). Nothing ventured,
> nothing gained.


Sounds like a plan. I'll report back on the results....;)

I plan on using long screws on both the frame and the door. I mean...why
not have the added insurance....? Plus I have 2 boys who are like wild
Indians.

Jim Stuyck wrote:

>
> "Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:Dgpnc.111077$f_5.47553@lakeread01...
>> I am going to replace the hollow interior doors in my house with solid
> pine.
>> In the hinge section at Home Despot, Stanley only has #9 screws at 1"
>> length. I would think that, even with 3 hinges, I want longer screws so
>> that some or all go into the studs, but HD only has #8 and #10 at various
>> lengths in the screw aisle.
>
> Hmmm...ONLY concerned about screws long enough to go into
> the studs, but not about the screws that go into the doors? Think
> about it. ;-)

Think about it further. The screw that goes into the door goes directly
into structure. The screw that goes into the stud has to go through the
door frame, first and then possibly a block or even an air space before it
gets to the stud that is the actual structural member. Hence longer screws
are usually needed on that side.

> My takes are:
>
> 1) Surely the hollow doors have only two hinges and you are adding
> a hinge, another 3 screws on each side of the hinge to handle the
> extra weight. If so, then my guess is that 1" screws are enough.
> 2) But if 1" #9 ISN'T enough, then go to a full-service hardware
> store to (1) look for longer screws and/or (2) look for a different
> brand of hinge that accepts the #10 screw.
>
> Jim Stuyck

--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

In article <Dgpnc.111077$f_5.47553@lakeread01>,
Buck Turgidson <[email protected]> wrote:
>I am going to replace the hollow interior doors in my house with solid pine.
>In the hinge section at Home Despot, Stanley only has #9 screws at 1"
>length. I would think that, even with 3 hinges, I want longer screws so
>that some or all go into the studs, but HD only has #8 and #10 at various
>lengths in the screw aisle.

For the door side - you'll have a couple of inches of solid wood to go
into - you don't want to go past that amount or you'll have the
unthreaded part of the screw shank failing to provide holding power, and
the threaded part sticking into the hollow.

>#10 doesn't look too bad on the hinge, but I prefer #9 if I can get them,
>since they fit perfect flush on the hinge. Anyone have a good source for
>these? Need brass Phillips.

I've often used McFeely's yellow zinc plated steel screws for interior
hinges where I wanted a brass color. The square drive has made it quite
easy to drive - and the steel has meant that the screwdriver didn't
deform the heads.

>Also, I am curious if I should consider the square drive (Tor-x ?) screws on
>the hinges.

I have had excellent results with square drive. But I've never seen
them in #9, only #8 or #10.
--
--henry schaffer
hes _AT_ ncsu _DOT_ edu

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

>
> "Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:Dgpnc.111077$f_5.47553@lakeread01...
>> I am going to replace the hollow interior doors in my house with solid
> pine.
>> In the hinge section at Home Despot, Stanley only has #9 screws at 1"
>> length. I would think that, even with 3 hinges, I want longer screws so
>> that some or all go into the studs, but HD only has #8 and #10 at various
>> lengths in the screw aisle.
>>
>> #10 doesn't look too bad on the hinge, but I prefer #9 if I can get them,
>> since they fit perfect flush on the hinge. Anyone have a good source for
>> these? Need brass Phillips.
>>
>> Also, I am curious if I should consider the square drive (Tor-x ?) screws
> on
>> the hinges.
>
>
> You will find them up to 3" long at www.mcmaster.com Very few places
> carry
> the #9 screws that I'm aware of. Home Depot only carries things the
> masses will buy, not what everyone needs.
>
> They are only listed in Phillips head and slotted so your decision is
> already made. Square drive is nice, and I've not seen Torx drive.

FWIW, <http://www.screw-products.com> has 9x2, 2-1/2, 2-3/4, and 3 yellow
zinc plated Torx flathead wood screws.

> Ed
> [email protected]
> http://pages.cthome.net/edhome

--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

In article <[email protected]>,
Buck Turgidson <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Using a "Vix"-type bit or a sure hand, make sure the screws' heads are
>> flush and square, and that there's no "hingebind," and they'll swing
>> properly forever.
>
>Had never heard of a vix bit before, but I looked on Amazon, and they seem
>like just what I need, and a good investment for the money.

They make centering the screw in the hole so easy to do that it ought
to be illegal! :-)
--
--henry schaffer
hes _AT_ ncsu _DOT_ edu

"GeeDubb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Buck Turgidson wrote:
>
> You can always use drywall or deck screws. HD has plenty of these though
> the color may not be what you want. Typically only one long screw per
hinge
> will be enough.
>
Deck Screw would be Ok but a dry wall screw would not be a good choice. Way
too brittle and not much more bite than a nail in this application.

On Sun, 09 May 2004 16:34:50 GMT, "Jim Stuyck" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I surely am happier to discuss screws rather
>than the "f-word."
>
>Jim Stuyck
>



and so we progress....

"Wm Jones" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:willjones-> >
>
> #9 @ 1" is plenty. Just be sure to pre-drill - having filled
> questionable holes with Titebond2 and hardwood toothpicks - so as not to
> split the jamb...and torque the screws to the perfect tightness.
>
> Brass is fine.
>
> If the jambs are installed correctly hinge screws into the studs is
> worse than overkill. If the jambs aren't shimmed and true, screwing into
> the studs will simply distort the frame.
> --
> Doors - Locks - Weatherstripping
> POB 250121 Atlanta GA 30325
> 404/626-2840

Looks like you are in the door business. I have probably replaced 15 or so
exterior doors and have seen an adjustable screw insert for the new door
jams. Do you know what I am talking about and or know where to get them?

"Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Dgpnc.111077$f_5.47553@lakeread01...
> I am going to replace the hollow interior doors in my house with solid
pine.
> In the hinge section at Home Despot, Stanley only has #9 screws at 1"
> length. I would think that, even with 3 hinges, I want longer screws so
> that some or all go into the studs, but HD only has #8 and #10 at various
> lengths in the screw aisle.

Hmmm...ONLY concerned about screws long enough to go into
the studs, but not about the screws that go into the doors? Think
about it. ;-)

My takes are:

1) Surely the hollow doors have only two hinges and you are adding
a hinge, another 3 screws on each side of the hinge to handle the
extra weight. If so, then my guess is that 1" screws are enough.
2) But if 1" #9 ISN'T enough, then go to a full-service hardware
store to (1) look for longer screws and/or (2) look for a different
brand of hinge that accepts the #10 screw.

Jim Stuyck

leevalley.com

In fact,
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=42265&category=1,180,42240&ccurrency=2&SID=


Renata

On Mon, 10 May 2004 17:50:08 GMT, "Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>>
>> Make sure you get the hex shaft...the orginal Vix had a round one and I
>> have no use for it.
>> --
>
>Thanks. Looks like the ones at amazon have the round shaft. I'll keep
>looking.
>
>
>http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000224LD/103-5465124-5790230?%5Fencoding=UTF8&coliid=I2BQMLM72QVQSE&colid=1I2CF9NSCWPRX
>

In article <[email protected]>,
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:


> Looks like you are in the door business. I have probably replaced 15 or so
> exterior doors and have seen an adjustable screw insert for the new door
> jams. Do you know what I am talking about and or know where to get them?
>
>
Just figured out the hardware you mean.

I have seen it on pre-hung units.

It is a slick but inferior substitute for shimming and fixing, whether
with proper nails or screws.
--
Doors - Locks - Weatherstripping
POB 250121 Atlanta GA 30325
404/626-2840

In article <[email protected]>,
"Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> wrote:

> > Using a "Vix"-type bit or a sure hand, make sure the screws' heads are
> > flush and square, and that there's no "hingebind," and they'll swing
> > properly forever.
>
> Had never heard of a vix bit before, but I looked on Amazon, and they seem
> like just what I need, and a good investment for the money.
>
>

Make sure you get the hex shaft...the orginal Vix had a round one and I
have no use for it.
--
Doors - Locks - Weatherstripping
POB 250121 Atlanta GA 30325
404/626-2840

In article <[email protected]>,
"Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> wrote:

> >
> > If the jambs are installed correctly hinge screws into the studs is
> > worse than overkill. If the jambs aren't shimmed and true, screwing into
> > the studs will simply distort the frame.
>
> Interesting. Never thought of that. Thanks for advice. I guess I will try
> as you suggest and do the first door with the 1" and see how it seems.
> Although I guess you never really know until it falls off the hinges....;)
>
>
>

Using a "Vix"-type bit or a sure hand, make sure the screws' heads are
flush and square, and that there's no "hingebind," and they'll swing
properly forever.
--
Doors - Locks - Weatherstripping
POB 250121 Atlanta GA 30325
404/626-2840

In article <Dgpnc.111077$f_5.47553@lakeread01>,
"Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> wrote:

> I am going to replace the hollow interior doors in my house with solid pine.
> In the hinge section at Home Despot, Stanley only has #9 screws at 1"
> length. I would think that, even with 3 hinges, I want longer screws so
> that some or all go into the studs, but HD only has #8 and #10 at various
> lengths in the screw aisle.
>
> #10 doesn't look too bad on the hinge, but I prefer #9 if I can get them,
> since they fit perfect flush on the hinge. Anyone have a good source for
> these? Need brass Phillips.
>
> Also, I am curious if I should consider the square drive (Tor-x ?) screws on
> the hinges.
>
>

#9 @ 1" is plenty. Just be sure to pre-drill - having filled
questionable holes with Titebond2 and hardwood toothpicks - so as not to
split the jamb...and torque the screws to the perfect tightness.

Brass is fine.

If the jambs are installed correctly hinge screws into the studs is
worse than overkill. If the jambs aren't shimmed and true, screwing into
the studs will simply distort the frame.
--
Doors - Locks - Weatherstripping
POB 250121 Atlanta GA 30325
404/626-2840

In article <[email protected]>,
"Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> wrote:

> >
> > Make sure you get the hex shaft...the orginal Vix had a round one and I
> > have no use for it.
> > --
>
> Thanks. Looks like the ones at amazon have the round shaft. I'll keep
> looking.
>
>
> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000224LD/103-5465124-5790230?%
> 5Fencoding=UTF8&coliid=I2BQMLM72QVQSE&colid=1I2CF9NSCWPRX
>
>

Highland Hardware carries them.
--
Doors - Locks - Weatherstripping
POB 250121 Atlanta GA 30325
404/626-2840