Don't "wet" it. You'll open yourself for water stains you'll never get out.
I can hardly imagine a bench application where I couldn't work 1/4" in 4'
out in the design. You'll be screwing it to some sort of rail. won't you?
"Danny Boy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Thanks again. I'll just see if I can wet it down and get some
> swelling and twist as it dries. I just don't want to clamp it and
> then have the strain pull it apart later, as happened once with a
> table top.
>
> Ok now, I'll just plough ahead as if I knew what I was doing.
>
> Dan.
>
On Tue, 27 Apr 2004 18:06:34 -0400, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>Don't "wet" it. You'll open yourself for water stains you'll never get out.
>
>I can hardly imagine a bench application where I couldn't work 1/4" in 4'
>out in the design. You'll be screwing it to some sort of rail. won't you?
I aim to not raise a whole issue out of this, and DO appreciate the
help.
I was hoping to screw material down into to the leg/trestle frame,
then up into the seat. Tough when it's warped. I'll go for the
glue/clamp/screwdown, and hide the screws with pegs.
Dan.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>Oak, 4' x 11" x 1"full is warped so that there is 1/4" lift in one
>corner.
>
>What's the best way to unwarp please? I'd like to take out some
>tension before clamping/glue/screw. It's to be a simple bench (seat)
>top.
>
Bandsaw it into several narrow strips; joint and plane them straight, flat and
square; then edge-glue them back together. This will reduce the thickness and
the width of the panel. If you don't have enough wood to accomodate that, then
you need either a larger board, or a flatter one. Or more narrow ones.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
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"Danny Boy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Thanks for the prompt reply. However, that would defeat the purpose
> ofa nice looking top. isuppose I'll use that board for smaller
> projects and start from scratch with the top. I was hoping for
> something like remedies in "The furniture doctor."
What kind of wood and from where? Chances are, another board will do the
same thing unless you get in screwed into place immediately. This is a
common happening with wood bought from the local Home Depot. All wood moves,
but the wide boards are some of the worst.
A 1/4" is not much at all and perhaps can be brought into place with a
couple of clamps and some screws and glue.
As for cutting into strips, that does not necessarily detract from the
appearance. Take a look at your dining room table, You can be pretty sure
it was not made from a single board.
Ed
On Wed, 28 Apr 2004 09:10:56 -0400, "Stephen M"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>If you don't want the "pegs" to show, cut plugs with a tapered (yes you have
>to use the tapered kind to get a goot fit) plug. Plugs cutters of this sort
>are available from woodworking stores for <$15. Take care to cut your plugs
>from matching stock. With a little care you can have a nearly invisible
>patch. Trim flush with a chisel cutting *across* the grain. Chiseling *with*
>the grain can give you tearout if the grain dips into the surface.
Thanks.
Dan.
> I was hoping to screw material down into to the leg/trestle frame,
> then up into the seat. Tough when it's warped. I'll go for the
> glue/clamp/screwdown, and hide the screws with pegs.
Use pegs (endgrain showing) when you want to see it, plugs (side-grain
showing) when you don't.
If you don't want the "pegs" to show, cut plugs with a tapered (yes you have
to use the tapered kind to get a goot fit) plug. Plugs cutters of this sort
are available from woodworking stores for <$15. Take care to cut your plugs
from matching stock. With a little care you can have a nearly invisible
patch. Trim flush with a chisel cutting *across* the grain. Chiseling *with*
the grain can give you tearout if the grain dips into the surface.
-Steve
On Tue, 27 Apr 2004 22:29:42 -0400, "Mike G"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Of course this isn't practical for the use you have planed for the stock so
>I'd suggest several nice oak jewelry boxes and a new board for your bench.
Thanks. I'll consider that option as well.
Many thanks to all contributors. Much appreciated, but that will do.
my decision now.
Dan.
On Tue, 27 Apr 2004 20:36:22 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>What kind of wood and from where? Chances are, another board will do the
>same thing unless you get in screwed into place immediately. This is a
>common happening with wood bought from the local Home Depot. All wood moves,
>but the wide boards are some of the worst.
Thanks, but I did mention oak. It's from the mill, but has been lying
around (flat) for a while, but not stickered.
>A 1/4" is not much at all and perhaps can be brought into place with a
>couple of clamps and some screws and glue.
I'll take your word on that. I had expected to do the same, but hoped
it could be reduced a bit first without lying it on the lawn for a day
or two [Furniture doctor].
>As for cutting into strips, that does not necessarily detract from the
>appearance. Take a look at your dining room table, You can be pretty sure
>it was not made from a single board.
11" would be a strip, I thought.
Thanks again. I'll just see if I can wet it down and get some
swelling and twist as it dries. I just don't want to clamp it and
then have the strain pull it apart later, as happened once with a
table top.
Ok now, I'll just plough ahead as if I knew what I was doing.
Dan.
On Tue, 27 Apr 2004 16:47:30 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
wrote:
Thanks for the prompt reply. However, that would defeat the purpose
ofa nice looking top. isuppose I'll use that board for smaller
projects and start from scratch with the top. I was hoping for
something like remedies in "The furniture doctor."
Dan.
>>What's the best way to unwarp please? I'd like to take out some
>>tension before clamping/glue/screw. It's to be a simple bench (seat)
>>top.
>>
>Bandsaw it into several narrow strips; joint and plane them straight, flat and
>square; then edge-glue them back together. This will reduce the thickness and
>the width of the panel. If you don't have enough wood to accomodate that, then
>you need either a larger board, or a flatter one. Or more narrow ones.
Commonly called twist and the best way to cure a twisted board and still
have a useful piece of stock left is to cut the stock into smaller piece so
the overall twist in the shorter lengths require less stock to be removed to
get a straight board.
Of course this isn't practical for the use you have planed for the stock so
I'd suggest several nice oak jewelry boxes and a new board for your bench.
However, there may be circumstances, such as improper or insufficient stock
acclimation, that would cause such a problem and if treated properly the
board may straighten out all by it's onsies.
Sorry, best I can do for you.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Danny Boy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Oak, 4' x 11" x 1"full is warped so that there is 1/4" lift in one
> corner.
>
> What's the best way to unwarp please? I'd like to take out some
> tension before clamping/glue/screw. It's to be a simple bench (seat)
> top.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Dan.
>
"Danny Boy" wrote in message
> Oak, 4' x 11" x 1"full is warped so that there is 1/4" lift in one
> corner.
>
> What's the best way to unwarp please? I'd like to take out some
> tension before clamping/glue/screw. It's to be a simple bench (seat)
> top.
Without 'big iron', or a lot of planing, and particularly if there is an
overhang on your bench, which there usually is, you might just want to mount
it with figure 8 table top fasteners and see if that will hold it down,
mitigate the warp, and still give you some wood movement wiggle room.
You didn't mention the latter, but with an 11" wide board, you are looking
at possible expansion and contraction, more or less depending upon the type
of cut, so be careful how you "clamping/glue/screw"
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/13/04