I was reading Jim Toplin's Table Saw Magic and the crosscut sled he
discusses has a removable insert for different blades. He says to
drill holes in the 4 corners to attach the insert. My question is
what is the insert attached to? Do I route dados into where the plate
goes? if so, don't the screw holes cease to hold after several
changes?
any guidance you could give would be greatly appreciated. I realize I
could build a crosscut sled and a dado sled, but is there a way to
have both in a single sled?
thanks,
--todd
In rec.woodworking
Roy Smith <[email protected]> wrote:
>Then I discovered an interesting thing. The right side of the slot is
>still zero-clearance from the right side of the blade, even if the left
>side of the blade is hanging out in mid-air. So, if I put the good side
>of the piece to the right of the blade, I still get a fully-supported
>cut edge. I've just been using it like that for a while and it seems to
>work fine.
I discovered something a bit more interesting. My blade is not centered
between the mitre slots. Turn the whole sled around and use the dado in a
new portion. The slots offset it by about 4". Works fine though you
obviously don't want to cut the dado longer than necessary.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] (Todd) wrote:
> I was reading Jim Toplin's Table Saw Magic and the crosscut sled he
> discusses has a removable insert for different blades. He says to
> drill holes in the 4 corners to attach the insert. My question is
> what is the insert attached to? Do I route dados into where the plate
> goes? if so, don't the screw holes cease to hold after several
> changes?
>
> any guidance you could give would be greatly appreciated. I realize I
> could build a crosscut sled and a dado sled, but is there a way to
> have both in a single sled?
>
> thanks,
> --todd
I built a crosscut sled, and soon after, I needed to do some dados so I
just used the same sled and enlarged the slot.
Then I discovered an interesting thing. The right side of the slot is
still zero-clearance from the right side of the blade, even if the left
side of the blade is hanging out in mid-air. So, if I put the good side
of the piece to the right of the blade, I still get a fully-supported
cut edge. I've just been using it like that for a while and it seems to
work fine.
hey, I like that idea!
-Dan V.
On Thu, 06 May 2004 03:32:44 GMT, [email protected] (Bruce) wrote:
>
>I discovered something a bit more interesting. My blade is not centered
>between the mitre slots. Turn the whole sled around and use the dado in a
>new portion. The slots offset it by about 4". Works fine though you
>obviously don't want to cut the dado longer than necessary.
>