"Australopithecus scobis"
: Gary Dean <[email protected]> wrote:
:
: > I am sure this has been discussed many times before but please humour
: > me. What is the best way to get a design from a computer onto wood for
: > the purpose of pyrography, cutting with a scroll saw or carving?
:
: Flip your drawing on the box to yield a mirror image. Print that on a
: laser printer, or make a photocopy if you've got inkjet. Put the paper
: pattern-side down on your stuff and iron it.
Has anyone actually got good results from this process?
Jeff G
--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
Email address is username@ISP
username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
Website www.amgron.clara.net
In article <AP2hc.20845$4N3.10406@newsfe1-win>,
Gary Dean <[email protected]> wrote:
> I am sure this has been discussed many times before but please humour
> me. What is the best way to get a design from a computer onto wood for
> the purpose of pyrography, cutting with a scroll saw or carving?
Flip your drawing on the box to yield a mirror image. Print that on a
laser printer, or make a photocopy if you've got inkjet. Put the paper
pattern-side down on your stuff and iron it. Kewl.
T'other way is to use carbon paper (under a right-way image) and
carefully roll a pricker wheel over the lines. Yuck.
--
"Keep your ass behind you."
In article <[email protected]>,
"Howard Ruttan" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I use carbon paper but I place it under the design and transfer with a
> pencil. I have no idea what a pricker wheel is but it's probably more money
> than an HB pencil.
I used the wrong term. It's called a "pounce wheel." And last time I
transferred a pattern, I used a pencil, too. I don't have a pounce
wheel either; I just look at them in catalogs... ;-)
--
"Keep your ass behind you."
In article <[email protected]>,
"xrongor" <[email protected]> wrote:
> i knew a sign painter that had a large metal plate to hang big paper on, he
> would project the image onto it with an overhead projector, then he used
> some special rod that had electricity running through it and it would toss a
> spark between it and the metal plate, leaving a small hole in the paper. it
> sparked about 10 times per second or so and you traced the outline of what
> was projected in this manner.
He had to use a projector cuz all the live models quit the same day....
--
"Keep your ass behind you."
Many times.
Jim in Milwaukee
Jeff Gorman wrote:
> "Australopithecus scobis"
> : Gary Dean <[email protected]> wrote:
> :
> : > I am sure this has been discussed many times before but please humour
> : > me. What is the best way to get a design from a computer onto wood for
> : > the purpose of pyrography, cutting with a scroll saw or carving?
> :
> : Flip your drawing on the box to yield a mirror image. Print that on a
> : laser printer, or make a photocopy if you've got inkjet. Put the paper
> : pattern-side down on your stuff and iron it.
>
> Has anyone actually got good results from this process?
>
> Jeff G
>
> --
> Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
> Email address is username@ISP
> username is amgron
> ISP is clara.co.uk
> Website www.amgron.clara.net
>
>
forgot which catalog, but it was with the woodburning section , it is a
1" round heating tool, sorta like a woodburner but round and flat.
Copying off a copier that uses black ink, turn pattern upside down, us
heat "thing" to trace over pattern, ink comes off on the wood leaving a
light shadow of the original. i use this to burn designs but have used
straight line items also.
Using paper, graphite is the best.
Gary Dean wrote:
> I am sure this has been discussed many times before but please humour
> me. What is the best way to get a design from a computer onto wood
> for the purpose of pyrography, cutting with a scroll saw or carving?
> Gary
Not to make the wreck jealous but we have a Laser CAMM at work we use for
model building (we're an architectural firm). I've started to use it for
various projects and lately have used it to score the wood for pattern cut
outs. If the wood is thin enough (1/4" or less) the laser does a good job
of cutting it for me, although it does burn the edges, but I think it makes
for a cool finish. We received a Christmas tree ornament last year that was
laser carved and it was incredible. I couldn't believe I hadn't used the
machine at work for it yet.
It's a pretty cool resource to have to use for free.
A pounce wheel is used to cut small holes in a paper pattern. Then the
(usually a sign painter) user "pounces a bag-o-caulk over the holes. The
pattern then can be removed revealing a light chalk outline of what to
paint.
JOMUF - Just one more useless fact.
Dave
"Australopithecus scobis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "Howard Ruttan" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I use carbon paper but I place it under the design and transfer with a
> > pencil. I have no idea what a pricker wheel is but it's probably more
money
> > than an HB pencil.
>
> I used the wrong term. It's called a "pounce wheel." And last time I
> transferred a pattern, I used a pencil, too. I don't have a pounce
> wheel either; I just look at them in catalogs... ;-)
> --
> "Keep your ass behind you."
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Tue, Apr 20, 2004, 6:47am (EDT+5) [email protected] (Gary=A0Dean)
says:
I am sure this has been discussed many times before but please humour
me. What is the best way to get a design from a computer onto wood for
the purpose of pyrography, cutting with a scroll saw or carving? Gary
Myriads, which is why people should check the archives.
The only ways that work consistently for me are, freehand, trace
with carbon paper, or, bestest, glue the pattern to the work.
JOAT
The Good are Innocent so they invented Justice. The Evil are Guilty so
they invented Mercy.
- Unknown
Gary Dean <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<AP2hc.20845$4N3.10406@newsfe1-win>...
> I am sure this has been discussed many times before but please humour
> me. What is the best way to get a design from a computer onto wood for
> the purpose of pyrography, cutting with a scroll saw or carving?
FWIW, Lee Valley has some graphite tracing paper that looks good:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=32818&category=1,42936&ccurrency=2&SID=
I haven't tried it yet, but I bought some with my last order.
I've played around with various methods like enlarging the design,
taping it to the wood and using a sharp pencil or knife to outline the
design (a ponce wheel would probably work too, but I haven't tried
one). They work, but I think the tracing paper might be better.
Chuck Vance
"Australopithecus scobis" wrote...
> T'other way is to use carbon paper (under a right-way image) and
> carefully roll a pricker wheel over the lines. Yuck.
I use carbon paper but I place it under the design and transfer with a
pencil. I have no idea what a pricker wheel is but it's probably more money
than an HB pencil.
--
Cheers,
Howard
----------------------------------------------------------
Working wood in New Jersey - [email protected]
Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org
"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Tue, Apr 20, 2004, 6:47am (EDT+5) [email protected] (Gary Dean)
says:
I am sure this has been discussed many times before but please humour
me. What is the best way to get a design from a computer onto wood for
the purpose of pyrography, cutting with a scroll saw or carving? Gary
The only ways that work consistently for me are, freehand, trace
with carbon paper, or, bestest, glue the pattern to the work.
FWIW there are all kinds of 'carbon' paper and some are better than others.
I have found the tracing paper that has a blue pigmented wax works best for
tracing onto metal and wood. The carbon paper that you used to get between
sheets of computer printer forms works good on wood. After tracing onto the
wood or metal I will enhance the tracing with a very thin marker(or the thin
white out pen that has been suggested).
Larry
"Gary Dean" writes:
> What is the best way to get a design from a computer onto wood for
> the purpose of pyrography, cutting with a scroll saw or carving?
Print out the drawing, then glue down with rubber cement, then cut out
pieces, then rub off pattern and rubber cement.
HTH
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
An alternative to the 'pounce wheel' is to use a vibrator 'engraver' tool
like you use to mark all your tools with. I print with a regular inkjet
printer, fairly wide (maybe .020) line. Tape in place. Run over the line
carefully with the engraver. You get both a mechanical imprint and a
dark line as some ink is forced thru. Quick, no mess, no iron.
This is particularly good for small curved patterns like lettering that I
carve, that the pounce wheel can't follow... You want to mark a little
under so you cut the tiny dents away...
It's not as good as the toner-transfer for highly accurate parts.
--
Regards, Terry King ...In The Woods In Vermont
[email protected]
Capturing Live Music in Sound and Images
http://www.terryking.us
i knew a sign painter that had a large metal plate to hang big paper on, he
would project the image onto it with an overhead projector, then he used
some special rod that had electricity running through it and it would toss a
spark between it and the metal plate, leaving a small hole in the paper. it
sparked about 10 times per second or so and you traced the outline of what
was projected in this manner.
then when you got it to the building you were painting, you would 'pounce'
it on.
dont know what that device was called, but it was pretty slick
randy
"TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A pounce wheel is used to cut small holes in a paper pattern. Then the
> (usually a sign painter) user "pounces a bag-o-caulk over the holes. The
> pattern then can be removed revealing a light chalk outline of what to
> paint.
>
> JOMUF - Just one more useless fact.
>
> Dave
>
>
> "Australopithecus scobis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > In article <[email protected]>,
> > "Howard Ruttan" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > > I use carbon paper but I place it under the design and transfer with a
> > > pencil. I have no idea what a pricker wheel is but it's probably more
> money
> > > than an HB pencil.
> >
> > I used the wrong term. It's called a "pounce wheel." And last time I
> > transferred a pattern, I used a pencil, too. I don't have a pounce
> > wheel either; I just look at them in catalogs... ;-)
> > --
> > "Keep your ass behind you."
>
>
>
>
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News==----
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The rubber cement thing works. Also, you can use spray on contact
cement, I think what I use is called Scotch 77. Than to remove, you
use a heat gun. And sandpaper.
come to think of it, just use Lew's method.
I've also heard you can use a copy from a laserjet (NOT a paint jet)
printer, as an iron on transfer thing. Gives you a reversed outpupt,
of course, but I guess what you do is set the copier to make a heavy
output, than just use your wife's favorite iron to trasnfer the toner
to the wood.
Come to think of it, you better just use Lew's method. Of course, for
woodburning, the toner transfer method might work well.
-Dan V.
On Tue, 20 Apr 2004 06:47:24 +0100, Gary Dean <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I am sure this has been discussed many times before but please humour
>me. What is the best way to get a design from a computer onto wood for
>the purpose of pyrography, cutting with a scroll saw or carving?
>Gary
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] (Conan the Librarian) writes:
> Gary Dean <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<AP2hc.20845$4N3.10406@newsfe1-win>...
>
>> I am sure this has been discussed many times before but please humour
>> me. What is the best way to get a design from a computer onto wood for
>> the purpose of pyrography, cutting with a scroll saw or carving?
>
> FWIW, Lee Valley has some graphite tracing paper that looks good:
I've never tried it with wood, but fabric stores sell colored
"carbon paper" for transfering patterns onto fabric. It might
work well on wood. It comes in different colors and would be
as readily available as your nearest fabric store.
Also, it sometimes works best to glue the paper pattern onto the
wood when scrollsawing. This can be done with spray adhesive.
Didn't Roy Underhill do a show with a marquetry (?) expert who
used such a method? (Maybe he used hide glue?)
--
Jeff Thunder
Dept. of Mathematical Sciences
Northern Illinois Univ.
jthunder at math dot niu dot edu
On Tue, 20 Apr 2004 08:06:30 +0100, "Jeff Gorman" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Australopithecus scobis"
>: Gary Dean <[email protected]> wrote:
>:
>: > I am sure this has been discussed many times before but please humour
>: > me. What is the best way to get a design from a computer onto wood for
>: > the purpose of pyrography, cutting with a scroll saw or carving?
>:
>: Flip your drawing on the box to yield a mirror image. Print that on a
>: laser printer, or make a photocopy if you've got inkjet. Put the paper
>: pattern-side down on your stuff and iron it.
>
>Has anyone actually got good results from this process?
>
Yes, all the time, needs a hot-ish iron though
Barry Lennox
The 3M Scotch 77 works well, I just used it this last weekend. The
important thing is to spray it on the back of the paper only, not the
workpiece, and let it dry at least 5 minutes before applying it to the
workpiece. Then, don't wait around a week before doing your cutting because
it does continue curing. But, not to worry, a card scraper takes the paper
and any remaining gunk off very easily.
Doesn't work for woodburning of course. For that the laser printer/photo
copier works best if you print on vellum instead of bond.
--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com
"Dan Valleskey" <valleskey at comcast dot net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> The rubber cement thing works. Also, you can use spray on contact
> cement, I think what I use is called Scotch 77. Than to remove, you
> use a heat gun. And sandpaper.
>
> come to think of it, just use Lew's method.
>
> I've also heard you can use a copy from a laserjet (NOT a paint jet)
> printer, as an iron on transfer thing. Gives you a reversed outpupt,
> of course, but I guess what you do is set the copier to make a heavy
> output, than just use your wife's favorite iron to trasnfer the toner
> to the wood.
>
> Come to think of it, you better just use Lew's method. Of course, for
> woodburning, the toner transfer method might work well.
>
> -Dan V.
>
> On Tue, 20 Apr 2004 06:47:24 +0100, Gary Dean <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >I am sure this has been discussed many times before but please humour
> >me. What is the best way to get a design from a computer onto wood for
> >the purpose of pyrography, cutting with a scroll saw or carving?
> >Gary
>
if you are going to 'remove the line', you can always tape the original on
top and use a push pin to make holes along the lines. sometimes its easier
for simple stuff than messing around with gadgets.
randy
"Gary Dean" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:AP2hc.20845$4N3.10406@newsfe1-win...
> I am sure this has been discussed many times before but please humour
> me. What is the best way to get a design from a computer onto wood for
> the purpose of pyrography, cutting with a scroll saw or carving?
> Gary