I DAGSed quickly, but I haven't seen this discussed yet.
I have 8" stacked dado set from Harbor Freight that I use every once in a
while. I'm not sure if I have the terminology right, but the set consists
of two blades, 1/16" and 1/8" chippers and some thin shims to fine tune the
cut. The shims are much thinner than the thread-to-thread distance on my
saw's arbor so, when I slip them between the chippers, they fall between the
threads. Then I tighten the arbor nut and bugger the center hole on the
shims.
Does anyone else have this problem? Any elegent solutions? I suppose I
could scotch tape the shims to the chippers or blades concentrically. Maybe
there's a better way.
Thanks,
Bill Leonhardt
Bill Leonhardt wrote:
> Does anyone else have this problem? Any elegent solutions? I suppose I
> could scotch tape the shims to the chippers or blades concentrically. Maybe
> there's a better way.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill Leonhardt
>
>
I've got the same problem with the shims that came with the SD508 dado.
They fall into the grooves and get crushed.
They all are oily, BTW. Doesn't keep them in place.
any other suggestions guys short of using tape instead of the supplied
shims?
Dave
"tom" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How about a bit of scotch tape around the arbor? Tom
>
If the fit between the arbor and the blade is decent, the scotch tape will
prevent you from mounting blades or chippers.
"tom" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote: If the fit between the arbor and the blade is decent, the
> scotch tape will
> prevent you from mounting blades or chippers.
>
>
> It doesn't have to be a full wrap, but a bit on the topside when
> mounting. And where you put your shims could be a factor, also. Tom
>
Still, a decent fit between the blade and arbor will prevent the blades from
going on if tape is in the way. I have to mount and dismount all of my
blades parallel to the arbor flange. If the blade is not very close to
parallel to the arbor flange it simply will not slide on or off.
On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 16:20:35 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Bill Leonhardt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>I DAGSed quickly, but I haven't seen this discussed yet.
>>
>> I have 8" stacked dado set from Harbor Freight that I use every once in a
>> while. I'm not sure if I have the terminology right, but the set consists
>> of two blades, 1/16" and 1/8" chippers and some thin shims to fine tune
>> the cut. The shims are much thinner than the thread-to-thread distance on
>> my saw's arbor so, when I slip them between the chippers, they fall
>> between the threads. Then I tighten the arbor nut and bugger the center
>> hole on the shims.
>>
>> Does anyone else have this problem? Any elegent solutions? I suppose I
>> could scotch tape the shims to the chippers or blades concentrically.
>> Maybe there's a better way.
>
>Spend a few more dollars and buy magnetic shims. Apply the shim to the
>blade or chipper and then mount the blade or chipper. Forrest has them.
>
LOL, I'll bet they would cost more than the Dado set did (from Harbor
Freight).
Dave Hall
"Bill Leonhardt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Does anyone else have this problem? Any elegent solutions?
I don't know if they are available separately or elsewhere, but the shims
that come with Forrest Dado set are magnetic. This works very well.
Bob
grease.
"Bill Leonhardt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I DAGSed quickly, but I haven't seen this discussed yet.
>
> I have 8" stacked dado set from Harbor Freight that I use every once in a
> while. I'm not sure if I have the terminology right, but the set consists
> of two blades, 1/16" and 1/8" chippers and some thin shims to fine tune
the
> cut. The shims are much thinner than the thread-to-thread distance on my
> saw's arbor so, when I slip them between the chippers, they fall between
the
> threads. Then I tighten the arbor nut and bugger the center hole on the
> shims.
>
> Does anyone else have this problem? Any elegent solutions? I suppose I
> could scotch tape the shims to the chippers or blades concentrically.
Maybe
> there's a better way.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill Leonhardt
>
>
"Ken Dibble" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 10:40:49 -0400, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
>
>> I DAGSed quickly, but I haven't seen this discussed yet.
>>
>> I have 8" stacked dado set from Harbor Freight that I use every once in a
>> while. I'm not sure if I have the terminology right, but the set
>> consists
>> of two blades, 1/16" and 1/8" chippers and some thin shims to fine tune
>> the
>> cut. The shims are much thinner than the thread-to-thread distance on my
>> saw's arbor so, when I slip them between the chippers, they fall between
>> the
>> threads. Then I tighten the arbor nut and bugger the center hole on the
>> shims.
>>
>> Does anyone else have this problem? Any elegent solutions? I suppose I
>> could scotch tape the shims to the chippers or blades concentrically.
>> Maybe
>> there's a better way.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Bill Leonhardt
>
>
> www.leevalley.com Item 05J13.01 $6.95 US in my catalog
>
>
Ken,
Have you used these shims? If so, are you happy with them?
The catalog page says they have a hole for a 5/8" arbor, but the slots look
smaller than the hole in the picture. Does that mean they slide between the
threads instead of over them? Do you find them easy to install/remove?
Thanks,
Bill
Ken Dibble <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 10:40:49 -0400, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
>
>> I DAGSed quickly, but I haven't seen this discussed yet.
>>
>> I have 8" stacked dado set from Harbor Freight that I use every once in a
>> while. I'm not sure if I have the terminology right, but the set consists
>> of two blades, 1/16" and 1/8" chippers and some thin shims to fine tune the
>> cut. The shims are much thinner than the thread-to-thread distance on my
>> saw's arbor so, when I slip them between the chippers, they fall between the
>> threads. Then I tighten the arbor nut and bugger the center hole on the
>> shims.
>>
>> Does anyone else have this problem? Any elegent solutions? I suppose I
>> could scotch tape the shims to the chippers or blades concentrically. Maybe
>> there's a better way.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Bill Leonhardt
>
>
>www.leevalley.com Item 05J13.01 $6.95 US in my catalog
>
Nice shims, but I think they would still fall into the arbor threads.
"George E. Cawthon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> tom wrote:
>> How about a bit of scotch tape around the arbor? Tom
>>
> Oh for Pete's sake, center the shim on the blade hole with a cone and tape
> it to the BLADE.
Taping the shim to the blade makes the shim thicker, possibly 1/2 to twice
as thick. Tape will act as a shim.
"Bill Leonhardt" <[email protected]> wrote in message >
> The catalog page says they have a hole for a 5/8" arbor, but the slots
look
> smaller than the hole in the picture. Does that mean they slide between
the
> threads instead of over them? Do you find them easy to install/remove?
My guess it that they twist a bit to allow fitting over a 5/8" arbour. It
certainly would make easier insertion than having to completely remove the
arbour nut every time you wanted to make an adjustment.
"Bill Leonhardt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I DAGSed quickly, but I haven't seen this discussed yet.
>
> I have 8" stacked dado set from Harbor Freight that I use every once in a
> while. I'm not sure if I have the terminology right, but the set consists
> of two blades, 1/16" and 1/8" chippers and some thin shims to fine tune
> the cut. The shims are much thinner than the thread-to-thread distance on
> my saw's arbor so, when I slip them between the chippers, they fall
> between the threads. Then I tighten the arbor nut and bugger the center
> hole on the shims.
>
> Does anyone else have this problem? Any elegent solutions? I suppose I
> could scotch tape the shims to the chippers or blades concentrically.
> Maybe there's a better way.
Spend a few more dollars and buy magnetic shims. Apply the shim to the
blade or chipper and then mount the blade or chipper. Forrest has them.
On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 10:40:49 -0400, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
> I DAGSed quickly, but I haven't seen this discussed yet.
>
> I have 8" stacked dado set from Harbor Freight that I use every once in a
> while. I'm not sure if I have the terminology right, but the set consists
> of two blades, 1/16" and 1/8" chippers and some thin shims to fine tune the
> cut. The shims are much thinner than the thread-to-thread distance on my
> saw's arbor so, when I slip them between the chippers, they fall between the
> threads. Then I tighten the arbor nut and bugger the center hole on the
> shims.
>
> Does anyone else have this problem? Any elegent solutions? I suppose I
> could scotch tape the shims to the chippers or blades concentrically. Maybe
> there's a better way.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill Leonhardt
www.leevalley.com Item 05J13.01 $6.95 US in my catalog
On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 08:54:29 -0700, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> You might try a thin coat of oil to help hold them in place as you
> stack them up.
I made up a set of paper shims (same dado set). I don't CARE what happens
to the center holes ... when they get too ratty to re-use, I'll trace and
cut a fresh set.
The oil sounds like a good idea.Should work even better for the paper
shims than the metal ones.
Paper doesn't weigh much so don't worry about the center hole being
somewhat eccentric. Regular notebook paper is about .003" thick. Index
cards / old file folders are somewhat thicker and another good choice.
The pages of a phone book are likely thinner. Use a mike or dial / vernier
caliper to check the thickness you actually have available. Try to be
consistent when you tighten the arbor nut.
Bill
On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 18:36:00 -0400, Upscale wrote:
> "Bill Leonhardt" <[email protected]> wrote in message >
>> The catalog page says they have a hole for a 5/8" arbor, but the slots
> look
>> smaller than the hole in the picture. Does that mean they slide between
> the
>> threads instead of over them? Do you find them easy to install/remove?
>
> My guess it that they twist a bit to allow fitting over a 5/8" arbour. It
> certainly would make easier insertion than having to completely remove the
> arbour nut every time you wanted to make an adjustment.
Correct. The only problem that I have encountered is making sure
that they don't get pushed into the arbor threads.
Ken
Sounds like another possible use for shellac.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
"Dave Hall" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> LOL, I'll bet they would cost more than the Dado set did (from Harbor
> Freight).
That is a very good chance. LOL