I've read the books and online articles and anything else I could find. The
consensus is: for shellac, use a pad or a high-quality brush. Foam brushes
are strongly rejected.
Cut to the chase: I tried a 4" FOAM ROLLER, and it's working perfectly. I
got off-the-shelf rollers from the Borg: white, much denser and
finer-grained than the typical gray-black foam brushes, and labeled for
"ultra-smooth paint surfaces" (Shur-Line brand). I tested them in pure
solvent (denatured alcohol, same source); no degradation of the foam
what-so-ever, even after sitting overnight after saturation.
I've been padding a 2 lb cut on a large area (~22 sq ft), but the
application and between-coat sanding times became excessive (I like joinery
and construction, I HATE finishing). I admit my padding technique is
probably less then perfect; I've been ending up with small ridges and
imperfections, causing increased time for between-coat sandings (see
previous post).
The method is not for the faint-of-heart, die-hard shellac aficionados.
When first rolled out, there are A LOT of tiny bubbles (per expectations
from Google search). But the bubbles dissipated before the finish set up
(except for one spot about 8" X 10", on the 2 lb cut application; 60 deg F;
40 % rel hum), and produced the flattest, smoothest coat of any method I've
tried. The method seems to produce a very slight orange-peel texture over
the surface, but it sands out with minimal effort. And you have to be
careful about slopping over onto the vertical edges. The bottom line: I'm
able to coat 22 sq ft in 10 minutes (per Jewitt's spec's: coat w/ the grain,
work the wet edge, re-coat, etc.), and the between coat sanding time is
reduced BY 3/4. I'll acknowledge that for the final coats, I may go to a
quality brush. But I may go back to the roller.
The only reason I even considered trying this method (aside from the fact I
hate sanding and finishing) is that the shellac I've been using had similar
application "feel" (i.e. "wet edge" considerations, set-up time, viscosity,
etc.) to epoxy resin I'd used previously on the wherry I'm building. The
Gougian Bothers recommended foam rollers for that use; it worked perfectly.
Anyway, all you shellac proponents out there, I'll bet a (one, [1]) beer
that you'll marvel at this method, if for nothing else than wash-coat and
early finish coats.
Well, your method will work poorly if one of the denaturants is MEK, so as
the man said, experiment on scrap, or you'll experiment on your project.
"J.B. Bobbitt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've read the books and online articles and anything else I could find.
The
> consensus is: for shellac, use a pad or a high-quality brush. Foam
brushes
> are strongly rejected.
>