Using my new 6" Delta jointer for the first time and I'm having problems
with bowing. For example, when I edge joint 2 40" pieces and lay them edge
to edge, I'm getting a gap in the middle of about 1/32". I'm trying to
apply most down pressure (but still, not very much pressure) with my left
hand just behind the cutter, and my right hand is mostly just pushing the
piece through. A straight edge held on the outfeed side shows what looks
like the proper gap on the infeed side and it appears consistent. Anyone
have any idears what I might be doing wrong?
I have been edge jointing first, then face jointing. I just tried it vice
versa and it didn't seem to make any difference.
On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 10:23:18 -0600, Anonymoose <Ihatespam> wrote:
>Using my new 6" Delta jointer for the first time and I'm having problems
>with bowing. For example, when I edge joint 2 40" pieces and lay them edge
>to edge, I'm getting a gap in the middle of about 1/32". I'm trying to
>apply most down pressure (but still, not very much pressure) with my left
>hand just behind the cutter, and my right hand is mostly just pushing the
>piece through. A straight edge held on the outfeed side shows what looks
>like the proper gap on the infeed side and it appears consistent. Anyone
>have any idears what I might be doing wrong?
>
>I have been edge jointing first, then face jointing. I just tried it vice
>versa and it didn't seem to make any difference.
adjust your outfeed table.
You ARE holding the work piece flush not only to the fence but also
flush/tight to the outfeed table, right??
John
On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 16:53:31 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>, Anonymoose <Ihatespam> wrote:
>>Using my new 6" Delta jointer for the first time and I'm having problems
>>with bowing. For example, when I edge joint 2 40" pieces and lay them edge
>>to edge, I'm getting a gap in the middle of about 1/32". I'm trying to
>>apply most down pressure (but still, not very much pressure) with my left
>>hand just behind the cutter, and my right hand is mostly just pushing the
>>piece through. A straight edge held on the outfeed side shows what looks
>>like the proper gap on the infeed side and it appears consistent. Anyone
>>have any idears what I might be doing wrong?
>
>I think your knives are set too high. They should be just a hair higher than
>the outfeed table -- literally just a hair, two or three thousandths of an
>inch.
>>
>>I have been edge jointing first, then face jointing. I just tried it vice
>>versa and it didn't seem to make any difference.
>
>It will sure make a difference when you try to get the edge square to the
>face. Joint the face first, then the edge, with the face held flat against
>the fence, if you want the edge square to the face.
On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 10:23:18 -0600, Anonymoose <Ihatespam> wrote:
>Using my new 6" Delta jointer for the first time and I'm having problems
>with bowing. For example, when I edge joint 2 40" pieces and lay them edge
>to edge, I'm getting a gap in the middle of about 1/32". I'm trying to
>apply most down pressure (but still, not very much pressure) with my left
>hand just behind the cutter, and my right hand is mostly just pushing the
>piece through. A straight edge held on the outfeed side shows what looks
>like the proper gap on the infeed side and it appears consistent. Anyone
>have any idears what I might be doing wrong?
>
>I have been edge jointing first, then face jointing. I just tried it vice
>versa and it didn't seem to make any difference.
I have the 6" Delta and was experiencing the same problem as you and
getting very frustrated re calibrating everything over and over again
- I even tried to get some help on this NG but the blathering idiots
started their war of words and I never did get any worthwhile advice,
just insults about my high expectations with cheap equipment - my
problem ended up being slight sagging at the ends of the tables - it's
easy to correct - tighten the upper table set screws first. then the
bottoms - I was doing it the other way around per the manual, ie from
bottom to top - it doesn't take much of a sag to throw things off just
enough to bow the middle - get yourself a good 3-4 foot straightedge
and a small toolmaker's square - they're a reliable reference and
worth every penny - the other guys are right about the critical knife
adjustments and the need not to apply downforce on the piece - anytime
you vary the dowforce you're affecting the depth of the cut -
shuffling along with slight even pressure is good. Once properly set
up you'll really enjoy using your jointer.
Good luck
i had this same jointer, returned it to lowes no matter what i did, shim the
tables, it would always have a gap, bought a cast iron jointer with long
tables problem solved for about 200 more dollars...tony
"Anonymoose" <Ihatespam> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Anonymoose <Ihatespam> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > "Tom Kohlman" <[email protected]> wrote in
> > news:[email protected]:
> >
> >> I have the Delta 6" and despite everything I have done to get it to
> >> work, I am now convinced that the problem is due to the outfeed
> >> table, not technique. Outfeed table seems to have some problems with
> >> sagging which gets worse after you loosen the adjustment screws to
> >> try to fix it. I saw a post a long time ago from a person that does
> >> the warranty rebuilds and he said that shims are the only fix.
> >>
> >> I will be installing new knives (OUCH $$$) on mine tomorrow and will
> >> go through the entire set-up procedure (again). Will let you know
> >> how it comes out.
> >
> > Good luck. I must have a different model, either that or I'm blind.
> > I have the JT160, which is the bottom of the line model and I don't
> > see any kind of adjustment for the outfeed table - just 4 allen bolts
> > holding it down with nothing between the table and chassis.
> >
> > I tried different techniques, to the point of applying almost 0
> > downward pressure and only horizontal pressure to push the piece
> > through - which got my knuckles uncomfortably close to the cutter,
> > even using the pushpads. Anyway, I got identical results, so I don't
> > think that's the issue...
> >
> > I think I've identified a high spot - or at least that there is a high
> > spot - can't tell if it's on the infeed or outfeed side. If I zero
> > the infeed table, rotate the blade out of the way, place a level
> > across the span, apply slight pressure on the outfeed side and slide
> > it back and forth in an arc on the infeed side, there is a very
> > noticable difference in friction between the fence side and the
> > opposite side - that is to say, on the fence side there is no
> > friction, it just rotates - pivoting on the high spot, versus the
> > opposite side where I get a consistent friction across the arc that
> > feels like constant contact all along the length of the level. I'm
> > going to drop it off to a local delta warranty shop that says they
> > have experience leveling jointer tables...but since there's no
> > adjustment on this puppy, I hope they have a lot of experience. Wish
> > me luck.
> >
>
> The shop I want to take it to closed at noon, so I dorked around with it
> some more (must pick it til it bleeds). It looks like the high spot is
> on the outfeed table. If I set the infeed table to be almost but not
> quite zero'd out and slide my level from infeed to outfeed table (like I
> was feeding a piece), at just the right height there is a discernable
> 'click' on the fence side (as the piece hits the outfeed table) when
> there is no 'click' on the opposite side. So, either the outfeed table
> has a high spot there, or the infeed table has a low spot in front of the
> cutter head. Unfortunately, I can't tell which from looking at it. Hope
> the shop has some amazing high-tech gear to scope this out for me...micro
> this and nano that...somehow, I'm guessing not.
>
> What a pain in the ass.
You got that little bench-top thing. I had one once and it worked great if
you were careful (thin cuts and flip the piece end for end on each pass).
You're correct, there is no ability to adjust it
"Anonymoose" <Ihatespam> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Robert <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 10:23:18 -0600, Anonymoose <Ihatespam> wrote:
> >
> >>Using my new 6" Delta jointer for the first time and I'm having
> >>problems with bowing. For example, when I edge joint 2 40" pieces and
> >>lay them edge to edge, I'm getting a gap in the middle of about 1/32".
> >> I'm trying to apply most down pressure (but still, not very much
> >>pressure) with my left hand just behind the cutter, and my right hand
> >>is mostly just pushing the piece through. A straight edge held on the
> >>outfeed side shows what looks like the proper gap on the infeed side
> >>and it appears consistent. Anyone have any idears what I might be
> >>doing wrong?
> >>
> >>I have been edge jointing first, then face jointing. I just tried it
> >>vice versa and it didn't seem to make any difference.
> >
> > I have the 6" Delta and was experiencing the same problem as you and
> > getting very frustrated re calibrating everything over and over again
> > - I even tried to get some help on this NG but the blathering idiots
> > started their war of words and I never did get any worthwhile advice,
> > just insults about my high expectations with cheap equipment - my
> > problem ended up being slight sagging at the ends of the tables - it's
> > easy to correct - tighten the upper table set screws first. then the
> > bottoms - I was doing it the other way around per the manual, ie from
> > bottom to top - it doesn't take much of a sag to throw things off just
> > enough to bow the middle - get yourself a good 3-4 foot straightedge
> > and a small toolmaker's square - they're a reliable reference and
> > worth every penny - the other guys are right about the critical knife
> > adjustments and the need not to apply downforce on the piece - anytime
> > you vary the dowforce you're affecting the depth of the cut -
> > shuffling along with slight even pressure is good. Once properly set
> > up you'll really enjoy using your jointer.
> >
> > Good luck
>
> Thanks - but I think mine's an even cheaper version of yours - the JT160 -
> looks like it is SUPPOSED to be machined flat at the factory with no
> ability to adjust it beyond shims...at least there are no instructions in
> my manual.
>
> I'm with you, I don't think it's to much to expect it to work as
> advertised. I read the reviews at amazon before buying it, but the
reviews
> were from Great to Lousy so took the gamble. It's not like I'm expecting
> great performance, just flat boards.
I have the Delta 6" and despite everything I have done to get it to work, I
am now convinced that the problem is due to the outfeed table, not
technique. Outfeed table seems to have some problems with sagging which
gets worse after you loosen the adjustment screws to try to fix it. I saw a
post a long time ago from a person that does the warranty rebuilds and he
said that shims are the only fix.
I will be installing new knives (OUCH $$$) on mine tomorrow and will go
through the entire set-up procedure (again). Will let you know how it comes
out.
"Rumpty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Do go nuts adjusting your table yet, it sounds like your technique needs
> work. Feed in about 12" of wood then shift all pressure to the out feed
> table.
>
> --
>
> Rumpty
>
> Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
>
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>
>
I don't see how that issue could explain a bowed result like you're seeing,
especially when jointing 1/4 walnut.
You could try moving the fence over, and see if you can find a spot where
the issue isn't as pronounced.
Mike
"Anonymoose" <Ihatespam> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Anonymoose <Ihatespam> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > "Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in
> > news:[email protected]:
> >
> >> 40" with that jointer should be no problem. Several of the other
> >> suggestions are good ones.
> >>
> >> IMO, you want the outfeed table exactly even with the cutter. I'm
> >> assuming you're taking light cuts (1/32" at the most).
> >
> > Yes - started at 1/32" and backed off to 1/64", for no specific
> > reason.
> >
> >> Anyway, you really should apply NO downward pressure AT ALL. Let the
> >> weight of the wood do the work. I used to try applying pressure like
> >> you, just before the cutter, and ended up with anomolous results
> >> (bowing, sniping, etc. etc.). It takes a few more passes, all other
> >> things being equal, but it gives more consistent results.
> >
> > I'll try that too - before I try adjusting the outfeed table. OTOH,
> > we're talking about 1x4 Walnut so I don't think it's a matter of
> > pressure - given the consistent results - I've done 4 pieces and
> > they're all bowed identically. At least, I don't think I'm leaning on
> > it THAT hard...but anything is possible.
>
> Otay. I zero'd my infeed table and layed (laid?) my alum level equally
> across the infeed and outfeed table, pressed my hand lightly on the end of
> the level on the outfeed table end and tapped on the opposite end. When I
> do this near the fence, I'm getting a tiny bit of rattle which I don't get
> when I do this opposite the fence. It's just the smallest hint of the
> tables not being coplaner - and of course it's only on the fence side.
> Problem is, this is a cheap Delta jointer...how do I adjust the tables?
> Looks like the bolts just hold the table down, they don't adjust anything.
> Do I have to shim the table? I can't imagine what I'll use that's that
> tiny of a shim.
That's explained in the instructions. I also think it's possible to "over
do" that leading to the opposite of "sag".
A pretty good "jointer tune-up for dummies" article was posted some time
ago. It's pretty lengthy so it you're interested, let me know and I can
send it to you via E-mail.
"Anthony Diodati" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I had trouble with mine sagging, And I think I loosened the gibs and
picked
> up on the outfeed table as I tightened the gibs.
> Tony D.
> "Tom Kohlman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I have the Delta 6" and despite everything I have done to get it to
work,
> I
> > am now convinced that the problem is due to the outfeed table, not
> > technique. Outfeed table seems to have some problems with sagging which
> > gets worse after you loosen the adjustment screws to try to fix it. I
saw
> a
> >
>
>
[email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> In article <[email protected]>, Anonymoose
> <Ihatespam> wrote:
>>Using my new 6" Delta jointer for the first time and I'm having
>>problems with bowing. For example, when I edge joint 2 40" pieces and
>>lay them edge to edge, I'm getting a gap in the middle of about 1/32".
>> I'm trying to apply most down pressure (but still, not very much
>>pressure) with my left hand just behind the cutter, and my right hand
>>is mostly just pushing the piece through. A straight edge held on the
>>outfeed side shows what looks like the proper gap on the infeed side
>>and it appears consistent. Anyone have any idears what I might be
>>doing wrong?
>
> I think your knives are set too high. They should be just a hair
> higher than the outfeed table -- literally just a hair, two or three
> thousandths of an inch.
I checked - one was definitely too high, or at least, was higher than the
other...not sure if it was too high or the other too low, but I adjusted
them so they're the same now anyway. I'll see how that goes.
Bridger <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 10:23:18 -0600, Anonymoose <Ihatespam> wrote:
>
>>Using my new 6" Delta jointer for the first time and I'm having
>>problems with bowing. For example, when I edge joint 2 40" pieces and
>>lay them edge to edge, I'm getting a gap in the middle of about 1/32".
>> I'm trying to apply most down pressure (but still, not very much
>>pressure) with my left hand just behind the cutter, and my right hand
>>is mostly just pushing the piece through. A straight edge held on the
>>outfeed side shows what looks like the proper gap on the infeed side
>>and it appears consistent. Anyone have any idears what I might be
>>doing wrong?
>>
>>I have been edge jointing first, then face jointing. I just tried it
>>vice versa and it didn't seem to make any difference.
>
>
> adjust your outfeed table.
It APPEARS to be adjusted properly - at least, a straightedge held on the
outfeed table shows a consistent gap over the length of the infeed table.
OTOH, the infeed and outfeed tables are pretty short. We're talking about
1/64" over 40 inches. I'm feeling geometricly challenged today, what
direction would I want to adjust my outfeed table to compensate for this?
Higher at the end, I guess?
I hope I get this squared away quickly (no pun intended), I'm about to run
out of parts on my cut list that won't show this problem too badly.
John Crea <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> You ARE holding the work piece flush not only to the fence but also
> flush/tight to the outfeed table, right??
Si.
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> 40" with that jointer should be no problem. Several of the other
> suggestions are good ones.
>
> IMO, you want the outfeed table exactly even with the cutter. I'm
> assuming you're taking light cuts (1/32" at the most).
Yes - started at 1/32" and backed off to 1/64", for no specific reason.
> Anyway, you really should apply NO downward pressure AT ALL. Let the
> weight of the wood do the work. I used to try applying pressure like
> you, just before the cutter, and ended up with anomolous results
> (bowing, sniping, etc. etc.). It takes a few more passes, all other
> things being equal, but it gives more consistent results.
I'll try that too - before I try adjusting the outfeed table. OTOH, we're
talking about 1x4 Walnut so I don't think it's a matter of pressure - given
the consistent results - I've done 4 pieces and they're all bowed
identically. At least, I don't think I'm leaning on it THAT hard...but
anything is possible.
> As Mr. Delorie points out, you really should do the face first so you
> have a good reference against the fence when jointing the edge.
I've switched to that method, does seem to make sense.
Wish this was as easy as using my planer.
Thanks.
Anonymoose <Ihatespam> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> "Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> 40" with that jointer should be no problem. Several of the other
>> suggestions are good ones.
>>
>> IMO, you want the outfeed table exactly even with the cutter. I'm
>> assuming you're taking light cuts (1/32" at the most).
>
> Yes - started at 1/32" and backed off to 1/64", for no specific
> reason.
>
>> Anyway, you really should apply NO downward pressure AT ALL. Let the
>> weight of the wood do the work. I used to try applying pressure like
>> you, just before the cutter, and ended up with anomolous results
>> (bowing, sniping, etc. etc.). It takes a few more passes, all other
>> things being equal, but it gives more consistent results.
>
> I'll try that too - before I try adjusting the outfeed table. OTOH,
> we're talking about 1x4 Walnut so I don't think it's a matter of
> pressure - given the consistent results - I've done 4 pieces and
> they're all bowed identically. At least, I don't think I'm leaning on
> it THAT hard...but anything is possible.
Otay. I zero'd my infeed table and layed (laid?) my alum level equally
across the infeed and outfeed table, pressed my hand lightly on the end of
the level on the outfeed table end and tapped on the opposite end. When I
do this near the fence, I'm getting a tiny bit of rattle which I don't get
when I do this opposite the fence. It's just the smallest hint of the
tables not being coplaner - and of course it's only on the fence side.
Problem is, this is a cheap Delta jointer...how do I adjust the tables?
Looks like the bolts just hold the table down, they don't adjust anything.
Do I have to shim the table? I can't imagine what I'll use that's that
tiny of a shim.
"Tom Kohlman" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I have the Delta 6" and despite everything I have done to get it to
> work, I am now convinced that the problem is due to the outfeed table,
> not technique. Outfeed table seems to have some problems with sagging
> which gets worse after you loosen the adjustment screws to try to fix
> it. I saw a post a long time ago from a person that does the warranty
> rebuilds and he said that shims are the only fix.
>
> I will be installing new knives (OUCH $$$) on mine tomorrow and will
> go through the entire set-up procedure (again). Will let you know how
> it comes out.
Good luck. I must have a different model, either that or I'm blind. I
have the JT160, which is the bottom of the line model and I don't see any
kind of adjustment for the outfeed table - just 4 allen bolts holding it
down with nothing between the table and chassis.
I tried different techniques, to the point of applying almost 0 downward
pressure and only horizontal pressure to push the piece through - which got
my knuckles uncomfortably close to the cutter, even using the pushpads.
Anyway, I got identical results, so I don't think that's the issue...
I think I've identified a high spot - or at least that there is a high spot
- can't tell if it's on the infeed or outfeed side. If I zero the infeed
table, rotate the blade out of the way, place a level across the span,
apply slight pressure on the outfeed side and slide it back and forth in an
arc on the infeed side, there is a very noticable difference in friction
between the fence side and the opposite side - that is to say, on the fence
side there is no friction, it just rotates - pivoting on the high spot,
versus the opposite side where I get a consistent friction across the arc
that feels like constant contact all along the length of the level. I'm
going to drop it off to a local delta warranty shop that says they have
experience leveling jointer tables...but since there's no adjustment on
this puppy, I hope they have a lot of experience. Wish me luck.
Robert <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 10:23:18 -0600, Anonymoose <Ihatespam> wrote:
>
>>Using my new 6" Delta jointer for the first time and I'm having
>>problems with bowing. For example, when I edge joint 2 40" pieces and
>>lay them edge to edge, I'm getting a gap in the middle of about 1/32".
>> I'm trying to apply most down pressure (but still, not very much
>>pressure) with my left hand just behind the cutter, and my right hand
>>is mostly just pushing the piece through. A straight edge held on the
>>outfeed side shows what looks like the proper gap on the infeed side
>>and it appears consistent. Anyone have any idears what I might be
>>doing wrong?
>>
>>I have been edge jointing first, then face jointing. I just tried it
>>vice versa and it didn't seem to make any difference.
>
> I have the 6" Delta and was experiencing the same problem as you and
> getting very frustrated re calibrating everything over and over again
> - I even tried to get some help on this NG but the blathering idiots
> started their war of words and I never did get any worthwhile advice,
> just insults about my high expectations with cheap equipment - my
> problem ended up being slight sagging at the ends of the tables - it's
> easy to correct - tighten the upper table set screws first. then the
> bottoms - I was doing it the other way around per the manual, ie from
> bottom to top - it doesn't take much of a sag to throw things off just
> enough to bow the middle - get yourself a good 3-4 foot straightedge
> and a small toolmaker's square - they're a reliable reference and
> worth every penny - the other guys are right about the critical knife
> adjustments and the need not to apply downforce on the piece - anytime
> you vary the dowforce you're affecting the depth of the cut -
> shuffling along with slight even pressure is good. Once properly set
> up you'll really enjoy using your jointer.
>
> Good luck
Thanks - but I think mine's an even cheaper version of yours - the JT160 -
looks like it is SUPPOSED to be machined flat at the factory with no
ability to adjust it beyond shims...at least there are no instructions in
my manual.
I'm with you, I don't think it's to much to expect it to work as
advertised. I read the reviews at amazon before buying it, but the reviews
were from Great to Lousy so took the gamble. It's not like I'm expecting
great performance, just flat boards.
Anonymoose <Ihatespam> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> "Tom Kohlman" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> I have the Delta 6" and despite everything I have done to get it to
>> work, I am now convinced that the problem is due to the outfeed
>> table, not technique. Outfeed table seems to have some problems with
>> sagging which gets worse after you loosen the adjustment screws to
>> try to fix it. I saw a post a long time ago from a person that does
>> the warranty rebuilds and he said that shims are the only fix.
>>
>> I will be installing new knives (OUCH $$$) on mine tomorrow and will
>> go through the entire set-up procedure (again). Will let you know
>> how it comes out.
>
> Good luck. I must have a different model, either that or I'm blind.
> I have the JT160, which is the bottom of the line model and I don't
> see any kind of adjustment for the outfeed table - just 4 allen bolts
> holding it down with nothing between the table and chassis.
>
> I tried different techniques, to the point of applying almost 0
> downward pressure and only horizontal pressure to push the piece
> through - which got my knuckles uncomfortably close to the cutter,
> even using the pushpads. Anyway, I got identical results, so I don't
> think that's the issue...
>
> I think I've identified a high spot - or at least that there is a high
> spot - can't tell if it's on the infeed or outfeed side. If I zero
> the infeed table, rotate the blade out of the way, place a level
> across the span, apply slight pressure on the outfeed side and slide
> it back and forth in an arc on the infeed side, there is a very
> noticable difference in friction between the fence side and the
> opposite side - that is to say, on the fence side there is no
> friction, it just rotates - pivoting on the high spot, versus the
> opposite side where I get a consistent friction across the arc that
> feels like constant contact all along the length of the level. I'm
> going to drop it off to a local delta warranty shop that says they
> have experience leveling jointer tables...but since there's no
> adjustment on this puppy, I hope they have a lot of experience. Wish
> me luck.
>
The shop I want to take it to closed at noon, so I dorked around with it
some more (must pick it til it bleeds). It looks like the high spot is
on the outfeed table. If I set the infeed table to be almost but not
quite zero'd out and slide my level from infeed to outfeed table (like I
was feeding a piece), at just the right height there is a discernable
'click' on the fence side (as the piece hits the outfeed table) when
there is no 'click' on the opposite side. So, either the outfeed table
has a high spot there, or the infeed table has a low spot in front of the
cutter head. Unfortunately, I can't tell which from looking at it. Hope
the shop has some amazing high-tech gear to scope this out for me...micro
this and nano that...somehow, I'm guessing not.
What a pain in the ass.
"Tony" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> i had this same jointer, returned it to lowes no matter what i did,
> shim the tables, it would always have a gap, bought a cast iron
> jointer with long tables problem solved for about 200 more
> dollars...tony
Final solution: Returning the JT160 to Amazon - may have issues with not
returning it in the original box, but I'll deal with that later - so far
they say no problem. And ordered the Bridgewood from Wilke's. I suspect I
would have no more luck than Tony. I called the local Delta service today
and they were as helpful as they could be. I told them I suspected a
slightly warped outfeed table and they put in an order to ship me a
replacement - and they mentioned that the infeed and outfeed tables were
identical - something that's pretty obvious when you look at it, but I
didn't notice anyway. So I scampered downstairs and swaped them and gave
it a try - but no joy, I had exactly the same problem. Then I loosened the
nuts that hold the plates that the tables mount onto (thinking that maybe
one was bound in an unlevel position. When I measured it, it looked like I
had fixed the problem.
But I ran a couple of pieces through and got exactly the same results. I
said "gosh darn" and got on the phone and ordered the Bridgewood.
I had trouble with mine sagging, And I think I loosened the gibs and picked
up on the outfeed table as I tightened the gibs.
Tony D.
"Tom Kohlman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have the Delta 6" and despite everything I have done to get it to work,
I
> am now convinced that the problem is due to the outfeed table, not
> technique. Outfeed table seems to have some problems with sagging which
> gets worse after you loosen the adjustment screws to try to fix it. I saw
a
>
In article <[email protected]>, Anonymoose <Ihatespam> wrote:
>Using my new 6" Delta jointer for the first time and I'm having problems
>with bowing. For example, when I edge joint 2 40" pieces and lay them edge
>to edge, I'm getting a gap in the middle of about 1/32". I'm trying to
>apply most down pressure (but still, not very much pressure) with my left
>hand just behind the cutter, and my right hand is mostly just pushing the
>piece through. A straight edge held on the outfeed side shows what looks
>like the proper gap on the infeed side and it appears consistent. Anyone
>have any idears what I might be doing wrong?
I think your knives are set too high. They should be just a hair higher than
the outfeed table -- literally just a hair, two or three thousandths of an
inch.
>
>I have been edge jointing first, then face jointing. I just tried it vice
>versa and it didn't seem to make any difference.
It will sure make a difference when you try to get the edge square to the
face. Joint the face first, then the edge, with the face held flat against
the fence, if you want the edge square to the face.
--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
> Do I have to shim the table? I can't imagine what I'll use that's that
> tiny of a shim.
You use "Feeler Guages" they come in all kinds of sizes (thous. of inches,
etc). If you call a machine shop in your area and ask them where they buy
theirs from you can get them there. The machine shop might even cut a few
of their own and just give you the ends (you don't need very much).
Good luck, I hate having to fiddle with my machines I'd rather just have
them "work". In fact I have my dial indicator attached to my table saw to
align my trunions. It's been sitting there for a month because I keep
avoiding it, I hate it that much...
Mike
Gee, you guys have all the fun. I inherited a "Dunlap" jointer (Sears,
pre-Craftsman). Wooden stand and all. Had to put a new motor in it last
year ($5.00 - garage sale) never had a bit of trouble with it except for a
worn out motor - - I've had it for 15 years now and don't have a clue as to
it's age.
"Anonymoose" <Ihatespam> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Tony" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > i had this same jointer, returned it to lowes no matter what i did,
> > shim the tables, it would always have a gap, bought a cast iron
> > jointer with long tables problem solved for about 200 more
> > dollars...tony
>
> Final solution: Returning the JT160 to Amazon - may have issues with not
> returning it in the original box, but I'll deal with that later - so far
> they say no problem. And ordered the Bridgewood from Wilke's. I suspect
I
> would have no more luck than Tony. I called the local Delta service today
> and they were as helpful as they could be. I told them I suspected a
> slightly warped outfeed table and they put in an order to ship me a
> replacement - and they mentioned that the infeed and outfeed tables were
> identical - something that's pretty obvious when you look at it, but I
> didn't notice anyway. So I scampered downstairs and swaped them and gave
> it a try - but no joy, I had exactly the same problem. Then I loosened
the
> nuts that hold the plates that the tables mount onto (thinking that maybe
> one was bound in an unlevel position. When I measured it, it looked like I
> had fixed the problem.
>
> But I ran a couple of pieces through and got exactly the same results. I
> said "gosh darn" and got on the phone and ordered the Bridgewood.
40" with that jointer should be no problem. Several of the other
suggestions are good ones.
IMO, you want the outfeed table exactly even with the cutter. I'm assuming
you're taking light cuts (1/32" at the most).
Anyway, you really should apply NO downward pressure AT ALL. Let the weight
of the wood do the work. I used to try applying pressure like you, just
before the cutter, and ended up with anomolous results (bowing, sniping,
etc. etc.). It takes a few more passes, all other things being equal, but
it gives more consistent results.
As Mr. Delorie points out, you really should do the face first so you have a
good reference against the fence when jointing the edge.
Mike
"Anonymoose" <Ihatespam> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Using my new 6" Delta jointer for the first time and I'm having problems
> with bowing. For example, when I edge joint 2 40" pieces and lay them
edge
> to edge, I'm getting a gap in the middle of about 1/32". I'm trying to
> apply most down pressure (but still, not very much pressure) with my left
> hand just behind the cutter, and my right hand is mostly just pushing the
> piece through. A straight edge held on the outfeed side shows what looks
> like the proper gap on the infeed side and it appears consistent. Anyone
> have any idears what I might be doing wrong?
>
> I have been edge jointing first, then face jointing. I just tried it vice
> versa and it didn't seem to make any difference.
Aside from adjusting your outfeed table, two things:
1. The first pass, press only LIGHTLY on the board. Just enough to
keep it safe, not enough to distort it. This gives you a flat
reference for the next pass(es).
2. After the first pass, apply most of your downward pressure just
after the cutter (i.e. on the outfeed side).
Oh, and always face joint before edge jointing, as the face acts as a
reference for the edge. It's face, plane, edge, rip. FPER for you
acronym freaks (AFs ;).
Also, have you checked to make sure your infeed and outfeed tables are
coplanar?