Seems like I remember that you entered the wood dimensions (width and
thicknes), the blade tilt and height and the angle across the blade and
it displayed an image of what the cove actually looked like. It saves
a lot of trial and error to get a desired profile. I think you could
also enter the rouigh radius and width of the cove and it would give
the other parameters (angle, blade heigth and tilt).
This advice of lou's is the best so far as I see
a good woodworker knows some geometry but I'll bet trial and error are
the most practical and time efficient and you get your setup that much
faster as well..
just my 2 cents... nice group here...
loutent wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Some time ago there was a link on this newsgroup for a program that
> > helped to determine the angle and blade height use to run a board
> > across a 10" table saw to cut coves for moulding for specific profiles.
> > I had it on another computer but now can't find it.
> >
> > Anyone know where it might be?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
>
> Cut some scrap (I used plywood) to the width
> you want.
>
> Clamp a straight edge at (say) 30 degrees
> across your TS.
>
> Raise the blade a little. Make a pass (slowly).
>
> Change the angle/height...
>
> Repeat a couple times 'till you get what
> you want.
>
> A lot more fun than trying to measure
> exact angles/chords etc - and you will
> get the desired profile.
>
> Ain't rocket science-unless you make
> it so (and you certainly can.)
>
> Lou
In article <[email protected]>,
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Some time ago there was a link on this newsgroup for a program that
> helped to determine the angle and blade height use to run a board
> across a 10" table saw to cut coves for moulding for specific profiles.
> I had it on another computer but now can't find it.
>
> Anyone know where it might be?
>
> Thanks
>
Cut some scrap (I used plywood) to the width
you want.
Clamp a straight edge at (say) 30 degrees
across your TS.
Raise the blade a little. Make a pass (slowly).
Change the angle/height...
Repeat a couple times 'till you get what
you want.
A lot more fun than trying to measure
exact angles/chords etc - and you will
get the desired profile.
Ain't rocket science-unless you make
it so (and you certainly can.)
Lou
[email protected] wrote:
>
> Some time ago there was a link on this newsgroup for a program that
> helped to determine the angle and blade height use to run a board
> across a 10" table saw to cut coves for moulding for specific profiles.
> I had it on another computer but now can't find it.
>
> Anyone know where it might be?
No, but interesting thought...
Are you simply talking of the use of an angled fence w/ a sawblade to
cut coves? If so, it's simply the projection of the partial arc at an
angle which is relatively straight forward geometry. If someone doesn't
come up w/ the already done one, I'll try to find time this evening to
cobble something up....but no promises! :)
Guess who wrote:
>
> On 31 Oct 2005 13:50:04 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>
> >Some time ago there was a link on this newsgroup for a program that
> >helped to determine the angle and blade height use to run a board
> >across a 10" table saw to cut coves for moulding for specific profiles.
...
> ...Frankly, I'd rather buy the stuff done and get on with the project.
I've found that normally this is done for large mouldings or for species
that aren't available easily...
ymmv, imo, $0.02, etc., .... :)
Duane Bozarth wrote:
> Guess who wrote:
>
>>On 31 Oct 2005 13:50:04 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Some time ago there was a link on this newsgroup for a program that
>>>helped to determine the angle and blade height use to run a board
>>>across a 10" table saw to cut coves for moulding for specific profiles.
>>
>
> ...
>
>
>>...Frankly, I'd rather buy the stuff done and get on with the project.
>
>
> I've found that normally this is done for large mouldings or for species
> that aren't available easily...
>
> ymmv, imo, $0.02, etc., .... :)
Woodhaven sells a commercial version of the cove design software for
about $15.
John
J wrote:
>
> "Duane Bozarth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > [email protected] wrote:
> > >
> > > Some time ago there was a link on this newsgroup for a program that
> > > helped to determine the angle and blade height use to run a board
> > > across a 10" table saw to cut coves for moulding for specific profiles.
> > > I had it on another computer but now can't find it.
> > >
> > > Anyone know where it might be?
> >
> > No, but interesting thought...
> >
> > Are you simply talking of the use of an angled fence w/ a sawblade to
> > cut coves? If so, it's simply the projection of the partial arc at an
> > angle which is relatively straight forward geometry. If someone doesn't
> > come up w/ the already done one, I'll try to find time this evening to
> > cobble something up....but no promises! :)
>
> It is actually 2 parallel partial arcs offset by the width of the blade.
> Sounds pretty hairy. I'd be looking at making some sort of hefty and stable
> sled to do this.
Not really...I've done it numerous times to make large coves. All it
takes is a good fence and a sharp blade. Don't try to hog the whole
thing out at once.
For really large coves, one marks the outline and makes some preliminary
cuts to remove most of the waste and then uses simply one or two angled
passes to clean up the profile.
On 31 Oct 2005 13:50:04 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>Some time ago there was a link on this newsgroup for a program that
>helped to determine the angle and blade height use to run a board
>across a 10" table saw to cut coves for moulding for specific profiles.
> I had it on another computer but now can't find it.
>
>Anyone know where it might be?
>
>Thanks
*
*
*
*
*****
Distance across cove [at bottom] = cosine of the angle turned times
the distance across the blade. So, set the blade height you need, and
measure the distance across showing above the table. Then turn the
miter by the angle whose cosine is the required diameter of cut
[across the bottom] divided by the measured blade distance.
That is: With blade distance showing as D, and the required distance
across the cove being d [the height being already fixed], then the
angle is arcos(d/D). use tables, spreadsheet, or calculator [or slide
rule?]
Once you know that you can set the angle smaller and nibble your way
up to the final cut instead of stressing the blade. Frankly, I'd
rather buy the stuff done and get on with the project.
[email protected] wrote in news:1130795404.741606.246250
@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
> Some time ago there was a link on this newsgroup for a program that
> helped to determine the angle and blade height use to run a board
> across a 10" table saw to cut coves for moulding for specific profiles.
> I had it on another computer but now can't find it.
>
> Anyone know where it might be?
>
Might be this one?
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/nmw030.asp
From the good article in FWW #168.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Guess who <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > [or slide
> > rule?]
>
> The only slide rule I know of is:
> Never go down a steel playground slide in your bare ass in the middle of
> a Kanuckistani winter.
>
... and never stick your tongue on a steel slide on a cold winter's day
after someone else *has* gone done it in their bare ass!
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 31 Oct 2005 13:50:04 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>Some time ago there was a link on this newsgroup for a program that
>helped to determine the angle and blade height use to run a board
>across a 10" table saw to cut coves for moulding for specific profiles.
> I had it on another computer but now can't find it.
>
I've never seen the program but I use a simple jig to get the cove
width I need.
I make an 18" (or so) long hollow rectangle out of scrap with the long
sides the same distance apart as I want the cove to be wide. If I
want a 2" wide cove my jig would measure 2" inside the rectangle x 18"
(or whatever) long. I lay the jig over the blade as if I was going to
rip it (long ways) with the blade inside the rectangle. Then I roll
the blade up to the final depth I want in the cove. Next, I turn the
jig until it touches the front and back of the blade. This gives me
the angle I need to make the desired cove width at the final blade
height. If you know you need 1" of flat after the cove detail you can
make the jig with 1" sides and clamp the fence right against the jig.
Remove the jig, roll the blade down and make several passes to get
back to the final blade height/cove depth.
If you need a jig for many widths of cove you can make the jig so that
it pivots at all four corners. This gives you a parallelogram that
can be changed to the width you need.
Mike O.
In article <[email protected]>,
Guess who <[email protected]> wrote:
> [or slide
> rule?]
The only slide rule I know of is:
Never go down a steel playground slide in your bare ass in the middle of
a Kanuckistani winter.
...or so I'm told.
In article <[email protected]>,
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > In article <[email protected]>,
> > Guess who <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > > [or slide
> > > rule?]
> >
> > The only slide rule I know of is:
> > Never go down a steel playground slide in your bare ass in the middle of
> > a Kanuckistani winter.
> >
>
> ... and never stick your tongue on a steel slide on a cold winter's day
> after someone else *has* gone done it in their bare ass!
but we digress...
"Duane Bozarth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> [email protected] wrote:
> >
> > Some time ago there was a link on this newsgroup for a program that
> > helped to determine the angle and blade height use to run a board
> > across a 10" table saw to cut coves for moulding for specific profiles.
> > I had it on another computer but now can't find it.
> >
> > Anyone know where it might be?
>
> No, but interesting thought...
>
> Are you simply talking of the use of an angled fence w/ a sawblade to
> cut coves? If so, it's simply the projection of the partial arc at an
> angle which is relatively straight forward geometry. If someone doesn't
> come up w/ the already done one, I'll try to find time this evening to
> cobble something up....but no promises! :)
It is actually 2 parallel partial arcs offset by the width of the blade.
Sounds pretty hairy. I'd be looking at making some sort of hefty and stable
sled to do this.
On 31 Oct 2005 13:50:04 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>Some time ago there was a link on this newsgroup for a program that
>helped to determine the angle and blade height use to run a board
>across a 10" table saw to cut coves for moulding for specific profiles.
> I had it on another computer but now can't find it.
>
>Anyone know where it might be?
The height will be blade height, and the chord length [distance across
the cut] will be the distance across the raised blade times the cosine
of the angle of the miter.
If you know the distance across you want, then you can set the blade
so that the distance across it head-on will be the secant of the
angle. If looking at the other angle, use sine and cosecant instead.
Problem: If you set the blade distance to match the distance
On 31 Oct 2005 13:50:04 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>Some time ago there was a link on this newsgroup for a program that
>helped to determine the angle and blade height use to run a board
>across a 10" table saw to cut coves for moulding for specific profiles.
> I had it on another computer but now can't find it.
>
>Anyone know where it might be?
>
>Thanks
I have the Cove Software from Woodhaven and love it. Have a look at
the link below.
Vic
http://www.woodhaven.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=7232