Hello,
I recently bought the Bridgewood 17" bandsaw and I'm concerned about the
upper wheel. I put a dial gauge on the front edge of the wheel and, as I
rotate the wheel, there is a variance of .005 from the "top" of the wheel to
a point at the 15 minute mark. The bottom of the wheel returns the gauge
to 0. The 45 minute mark is off by about .002. The wheel seems to be
balanced since when I spin it never returns to the same spot. Is this a
big enough problem that Wilke should replace the top wheel. The bottom
wheel has a variance of about .002 in a couple of spots but that's not
nearly as bad.
The saw seems to cut okay but all I've tried is the stock blade. I have a
bit of a gripe there as well. When I ordered the saw, the web site said the
blade length was 132". So I could get cutting right away, I ordered a few
new blades (including the woodslicer). Now, none of the blades fit the
saw, they are all too loose. I pulled off the stock blade and measured it
at 131-1/2. Even then the tension wheel is cranked almost all the way to
get the blade tight. So I took my brand new blades into the shop to have
an inch removed from each. Still haven't cut with 'em yet. Oh well, all
good thing come to those that ..... crap I want to cut some wood.......
Please let me know what I should do (if anything) about that upper wheel.
Thanks,
Woody
On Fri, 14 May 2004 02:50:03 GMT, "woodydelsur"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hello,
>
>I recently bought the Bridgewood 17" bandsaw and I'm concerned about the
>upper wheel. I put a dial gauge on the front edge of the wheel and, as I
>rotate the wheel, there is a variance of .005 from the "top" of the wheel to
>a point at the 15 minute mark. The bottom of the wheel returns the gauge
>to 0. The 45 minute mark is off by about .002. The wheel seems to be
>balanced since when I spin it never returns to the same spot. Is this a
>big enough problem that Wilke should replace the top wheel. The bottom
>wheel has a variance of about .002 in a couple of spots but that's not
>nearly as bad.
>
>The saw seems to cut okay but all I've tried is the stock blade. I have a
>bit of a gripe there as well. When I ordered the saw, the web site said the
>blade length was 132". So I could get cutting right away, I ordered a few
>new blades (including the woodslicer). Now, none of the blades fit the
>saw, they are all too loose. I pulled off the stock blade and measured it
>at 131-1/2. Even then the tension wheel is cranked almost all the way to
>get the blade tight. So I took my brand new blades into the shop to have
>an inch removed from each. Still haven't cut with 'em yet. Oh well, all
>good thing come to those that ..... crap I want to cut some wood.......
>
>Please let me know what I should do (if anything) about that upper wheel.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Woody
>
if anything, true up the rubber tire when you put the crown in.
On Fri, 14 May 2004 05:35:24 GMT, Tom Veatch <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Actually, .005" on a 8.5" radius sounds pretty darn good to me.
I gotta agree. 5/1000th" isn't much to make a difference on a BS I
think. I can visibly see runout on my Delta upper wheel, but with a
Timberwolf it cuts straight. Much more is involved with your BS's
performance besides .005" runout on your upper wheel. Wheels
co-planar? Tires okay/not dirty? Blade teeth set correctly? Etc.
Layne
On Fri, 14 May 2004 02:50:03 GMT, "woodydelsur" <[email protected]> wrote:
<snip report of .005 runout>
>Please let me know what I should do (if anything) about that upper wheel.
>
I'll have to second Ed's recommendation.
First consideration is whether or not the saw cuts acceptably well. And the blade has a HUGE influence on that.
If you are getting acceptable cutting performance, go with it an don't look back.
If you are getting unacceptable cutting performance, first try a "premium" blade. If you still get unacceptable performance, I think
you'll find something other than the runout is the problem.
Actually, .005" on a 8.5" radius sounds pretty darn good to me.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS USA
"woodydelsur" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I recently bought the Bridgewood 17" bandsaw and I'm concerned about the
> upper wheel. I put a dial gauge on the front edge of the wheel and, as I
> rotate the wheel, there is a variance of .005 from the "top" of the wheel
to
> a point at the 15 minute mark. The bottom of the wheel returns the gauge
> to 0. The 45 minute mark is off by about .002. The wheel seems to be
> balanced since when I spin it never returns to the same spot. Is this a
> big enough problem that Wilke should replace the top wheel. The bottom
> wheel has a variance of about .002 in a couple of spots but that's not
> nearly as bad.
>
> The saw seems to cut okay but all I've tried is the stock blade.
I think you'd be happier if you put the gauge away. I have no idea if my
wheels are off less or more than that. What counts is the blade going
through the guides where the cutting takes place.. I'd be more concerned
that a replacement would not be as good as what you have now.
Ed