I have a complicated glue up to do tonight (9 slats and 4 rails). I was
going to use Titebond III which states "longer open assembly time" on the
bottle. If you go to there webpage it states 10 minutes for assembly time.
Have you gone with a longer assembly time with TBIII?
Should I use something else other than TBIII with a longer open time? I'm
not actually sure how long this glue up will take me, but I want to be sure
I have enough time. I would rather not do the glue up in stages.
--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com
> How about Gorilla glue? I don't know what set up time is but it is sure
> allot longer than 10 minutes!
> Greg
I've used PU glue also when I've needed longer assembly times - the
bottle claims 1/2 hr working time. I haven't pushed it to 30 minutes,
but that should be more than enough for most things. I've heard
varying opinions on its strength and longevity, but it's worked fine
for me so far.
Andy
"Stoutman" <.@.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a complicated glue up to do tonight (9 slats and 4 rails). I was
>going to use Titebond III which states "longer open assembly time" on the
>bottle. If you go to there webpage it states 10 minutes for assembly time.
>Have you gone with a longer assembly time with TBIII?
>
> Should I use something else other than TBIII with a longer open time?
> I'm not actually sure how long this glue up will take me, but I want to be
> sure I have enough time. I would rather not do the glue up in stages.
>
> --
> Stoutman
> www.garagewoodworks.com
>
>
How about Gorilla glue? I don't know what set up time is but it is sure
allot longer than 10 minutes!
Greg
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greg wrote:
>
> > How about Gorilla glue? I don't know what set up time is but it is sure
> > allot longer than 10 minutes!
>
>
> IMHO, the most overpriced, under peckered product in the market,
> especially when good epoxy is available.
>
> Ranks right up there with Hadacol, but at least Hadacol was a pretty good
> proof product as I remember my dad telling me.
>
> Lew
I use Gorilla glue once in a while. It is convenient and does what I need it
to do. Sure epoxy would be better, but for the little I would use I will
just buy the small bottles of Gorilla. Generally I use Titebond or some
equal.
Stoutman was looking for longer setup time and Gorilla fits the need, and is
readily available and simple to use.
Greg
Sun, Feb 11, 2007, 2:35pm @. (Stoutman) doth queryeth:
I have a complicated glue up to do tonight (9 slats and 4 rails). I was
going to use Titebond III which states "longer open assembly time" on
the bottle. If you go to there webpage it states 10 minutes for assembly
time. Have you gone with a longer assembly time with TBIII?
Should I use something else other than TBIII with a longer open time?
=A0 I'm not actually sure how long this glue up will take me, but I want
to be sure I have enough time. I would rather not do the glue up in
stages.
I dunno. I had been thinking about something else to do with glue
and ran across this thread again.
I basicqlly use Titebond II. Period. I like it. So first thing
I'd do with a quation about it would be call the 1-800 number on the
back of the bottle. I've always been very happy with the service guys
and their responses.
You might want to go thru a no-glue practice run. Or two. That
way you might be able to catch any problem areas before they're problem
areas. And time it if you've got a stopwatch, or maybe use kitchen
timer. So you've got an idea of the actual time needed. You may find
you will have to do it in two stages afer all.
Just s I typed that, sems to me there's some kind of glue you there
you can put on, let it dry, fit the pieces together, and then use a
catalysist to activate. I don't know if this is true, or just a result
of reading Sci-Fi for too many years. Wait, might be so. Seems I saw
something along those lines on Modern Marvels or sme such. Might want
to call some of the commercial adhesive companies tech support. I'm in
no need myself, so I won't call. But, if you feel pressed, I think it
could give you an answer. Maybe.
Of course, there's always nails or bolts. LOL Or, maybe just
something as simple as getting a helper for the glueup.
As usual, you are free to ignore any, or all, of this..
JOAT
When in doubt, go to sleep.
- Mully Small
"Stoutman" <.@.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a complicated glue up to do tonight (9 slats and 4 rails). I was
>going to use Titebond III which states "longer open assembly time" on the
>bottle. If you go to there webpage it states 10 minutes for assembly time.
>Have you gone with a longer assembly time with TBIII?
>
> Should I use something else other than TBIII with a longer open time?
> I'm not actually sure how long this glue up will take me, but I want to be
> sure I have enough time. I would rather not do the glue up in stages.
>
> --
> Stoutman
> www.garagewoodworks.com
>
>
Once again turn to Lee Valley for your answers.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=45104&cat=1,110,42965&ap=1
"... With an open time of 15 to 20 minutes and a clamping time of 30 to 90
minutes (depending upon application), it can be worked after 4 hours. After
24 hours it reaches its full strength, which is in excess of the strength of
the strongest wood in shear, sugar maple. ..."
I have has no issues with the extended open time, except when the air
conditioner was broken and it was over 100 degrees in the shop.
enjoy,
Myx
Greg wrote:
> How about Gorilla glue? I don't know what set up time is but it is sure
> allot longer than 10 minutes!
IMHO, the most overpriced, under peckered product in the market,
especially when good epoxy is available.
Ranks right up there with Hadacol, but at least Hadacol was a pretty
good proof product as I remember my dad telling me.
Lew
I've had a bottle of Gorilla glue for about three years. Can't seem to find
a reason to use it. Titebond or epoxy has always done everything I needed.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greg wrote:
>
> > How about Gorilla glue? I don't know what set up time is but it is sure
> > allot longer than 10 minutes!
>
>
> IMHO, the most overpriced, under peckered product in the market,
> especially when good epoxy is available.
>
> Ranks right up there with Hadacol, but at least Hadacol was a pretty
> good proof product as I remember my dad telling me.
>
> Lew
"Stoutman" wrote:
> I have a complicated glue up to do tonight (9 slats and 4 rails). I was
> going to use Titebond III which states "longer open assembly time" on
the
> bottle. If you go to there webpage it states 10 minutes for assembly
time.
When you get tired of screwing around, epoxy with a slow hardener or
rescorcinal.
Lew
"James "Cubby" Culbertson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Not being able to see your project, I finished gluing up two panels
> (seperately) with two rails and 15 spindles on each using TBII. It was a
> little hairy but worked out ok. On my current project, I've got a lot of
> intricate (read: timely) glue ups and am planning to use Plastic Resin
> Glue. It seems to have about the longest open time I've seen with the
> exception of hide glue or epoxy. I use epoxy on occasion and that would
> be another good option for ye.
> Cheers,
> cc
>
>
Correction Stoutman. I went to grab the bottle of glue for some panel glue
ups today and realized it was the Titebond Extend, not TBII. Hope I didn't
screw ya up! I'm still planning on getting some plastic resin glue for my
upcoming glue ups.
Cheers,
cc
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
> How about Gorilla glue? I don't know what set up time is but it is sure
> allot longer than 10 minutes!
> Greg
GorillaGrip: 20-25 minutes in moderate temps and very high humidity (lower
humidity may extend open time for moisture curing UF glues a.f.a.i.k.)
Unfortunately it works much better on straight glue-ups than in mortise/tenon
and/or bisquit joint situations.
-Peter
--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> IMHO, the most overpriced, under peckered product in the market,
> especially when good epoxy is available.
>
Odd. I pay about the equivalent of 7 US$ per cartridge for GorillaGrip.
(this is not the same, but similar to Gorilla Glue - MUCH stronger i.m.e.)
I pay around twice that for a liter bottle of 'weatherproof' pva.
Dont get me started on prices for epoxy: the sky's the limit.
heh, regional differences maybe ?!?
As for under-peckered: I've been using UF glues for ~23 years, starting with
aerolite 308. I have yet to see a failure. Works for me. But I am suspicious of
the red Gorilla Glue that comes in little handyman tubes - I think that's
nowhere near as strong (only ever used it once though).
-P.
--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> If you need to fill gaps, add some micro-balloons to the epoxy.
>
Or to the Gorilla?
Or other reinforcement like sawdust?
> Gorilla glue or equal has absolutely no gap filling strength.
>
Give it some backbone.
"How about Gorilla glue? "
"IMHO, the most overpriced, under peckered product in the market,
especially when good epoxy is available"
Well while it is true that Gorilla Glue is overpriced, both types of glue
have their place. For example, Epoxy is strong, dries hard leaving no give
once dry while Gorilla Glue is strong WILL have some give to it when dry and
is gap filling. It is the only thing I have found that will hold our son's
wooden dining room chairs together thru the winter heating season. Gorilla
Glue also seems to be working holding my 1" sanding belts together when the
splice comes apart, no flex to Epoxy Glue and other glues I have tried did
not hold.
Walt Conner
WConner wrote:
> Well while it is true that Gorilla Glue is overpriced, both types of
glue
> have their place. For example, Epoxy is strong, dries hard leaving no
give
> once dry while Gorilla Glue is strong WILL have some give to it when
dry and
> is gap filling.
If you need to fill gaps, add some micro-balloons to the epoxy.
Gorilla glue or equal has absolutely no gap filling strength.
Trust me, if I used epoxy on your son's chairs, the wood would return to
compost before the epoxy joint failed.
Lew
Never opened. Never found the need.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I've had a bottle of Gorilla glue for about three years. Can't seem to
> > find
> > a reason to use it. Titebond or epoxy has always done everything I
> > needed.
>
>
> If you have opened that bottle you may want to throw it away.
>
>
Always had good luck with GG. If biscuits where a tad loose I wet the
biscuit and slot.Seems to fill small gaps which white glue does not do.
If I need a long work time used 30 min.. epoxy. Problem I ran into with
epoxy was even if I taped the joint it was very hard to scrap the squeeze
out.
Best of everything so far is Titebond III. At least they label the freshness
date so old stock can be avoided.
Going to try the glow stuff from Titebond just so I can see the glue after
sanding.
"Stoutman" <.@.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a complicated glue up to do tonight (9 slats and 4 rails). I was
>going to use Titebond III which states "longer open assembly time" on the
>bottle. If you go to there webpage it states 10 minutes for assembly time.
>Have you gone with a longer assembly time with TBIII?
>
> Should I use something else other than TBIII with a longer open time?
> I'm not actually sure how long this glue up will take me, but I want to be
> sure I have enough time. I would rather not do the glue up in stages.
>
> --
> Stoutman
> www.garagewoodworks.com
>
>
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've had a bottle of Gorilla glue for about three years. Can't seem to
> find
> a reason to use it. Titebond or epoxy has always done everything I
> needed.
If you have opened that bottle you may want to throw it away.
"Stoutman" <.@.> wrote in message
> I have a complicated glue up to do tonight (9 slats and 4 rails). I was
> going to use Titebond III which states "longer open assembly time" on the
> bottle. If you go to there webpage it states 10 minutes for assembly
time.
> Have you gone with a longer assembly time with TBIII?
>
> Should I use something else other than TBIII with a longer open time?
I'm
> not actually sure how long this glue up will take me, but I want to be
sure
> I have enough time. I would rather not do the glue up in stages.
You will be lucky to get the full 10 minutes from TitebondIII in my
experience ... more like 7 minutes.
TiteBond II Extend will give you about 15 minutes and is good down to 40
degrees F. If you rehearse with a timer, you can get a lot done in 15
minutes.
If you need longer than that, Weldwood plastic resin is probably as good as
any, IME.
Break your glue-up into sub-assemblies and it should not be that
complicated.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/07/07
On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 14:35:15 -0500, "Stoutman" <.@.> wrote:
>I have a complicated glue up to do tonight (9 slats and 4 rails). I was
>going to use Titebond III which states "longer open assembly time" on the
>bottle. If you go to there webpage it states 10 minutes for assembly time.
>Have you gone with a longer assembly time with TBIII?
>
>Should I use something else other than TBIII with a longer open time? I'm
>not actually sure how long this glue up will take me, but I want to be sure
>I have enough time. I would rather not do the glue up in stages.
I had 13 bar clamps in use a few weeks ago. I was gun shy and was
wanting a second set of hands. Well I used Titebond II Extend which is
a white glue and just my hands. Some of the glue started to dry out
because I was glueing oak to oak veneer plywood. Actually I gues it
was not so much drying out as being absorbed and sealing the plywood.
I just applied a bit more. No problems but I do not know how long it
took me to apply glue and then clamp everything. If you have dry
fitted the whole assembly and you see no issues then you are probably
ok. Since you are working with real wood you should have less issues
than I did. I bet I spent more than 10 minutes applying glues to 20+
bisquits.
On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 22:45:05 GMT, "WConner" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>"How about Gorilla glue? "
> "IMHO, the most overpriced, under peckered product in the market,
>especially when good epoxy is available"
>
>Well while it is true that Gorilla Glue is overpriced, both types of glue
>have their place. For example, Epoxy is strong, dries hard leaving no give
>once dry while Gorilla Glue is strong WILL have some give to it when dry and
>is gap filling.
In the sense that it will put foam in a gap it is gap filling. In the
sense of filling a gap and having any structural strenght across the
gap it's another story.
> It is the only thing I have found that will hold our son's
>wooden dining room chairs together thru the winter heating season.
Have you tried a flexibilized epoxy such as G2?
> Gorilla
>Glue also seems to be working holding my 1" sanding belts together when the
>splice comes apart, no flex to Epoxy Glue and other glues I have tried did
>not hold.
>
>Walt Conner
>
"Stoutman" <.@.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a complicated glue up to do tonight (9 slats and 4 rails). I was
>going to use Titebond III which states "longer open assembly time" on the
>bottle. If you go to there webpage it states 10 minutes for assembly time.
>Have you gone with a longer assembly time with TBIII?
>
> Should I use something else other than TBIII with a longer open time?
> I'm not actually sure how long this glue up will take me, but I want to be
> sure I have enough time. I would rather not do the glue up in stages.
>
> --
> Stoutman
> www.garagewoodworks.com
>
>
Not being able to see your project, I finished gluing up two panels
(seperately) with two rails and 15 spindles on each using TBII. It was a
little hairy but worked out ok. On my current project, I've got a lot of
intricate (read: timely) glue ups and am planning to use Plastic Resin
Glue. It seems to have about the longest open time I've seen with the
exception of hide glue or epoxy. I use epoxy on occasion and that would be
another good option for ye.
Cheers,
cc