As so many of us have to deal with, my shop size is small and so is my
budget. I try to make do with what I have. As a result, I've been
learning about using my router and it's table as an edge jointer. My
principle reason for edging is of course edge gluing.
Has anyone else used this method? Any hints on using it effectivly and
efficiently? How far does the out-feed side of my fence need to be as
compared to the in-feed side?
On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 03:34:45 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
wrote:
>IF he's face-jointing the boards somehow, he can use the same method to
>edge-joint them
Thickness planer ?
In rec.woodworking
[email protected] (Chip) wrote:
>As so many of us have to deal with, my shop size is small and so is my
>budget. I try to make do with what I have. As a result, I've been
>learning about using my router and it's table as an edge jointer. My
>principle reason for edging is of course edge gluing.
>
>Has anyone else used this method? Any hints on using it effectivly and
>efficiently? How far does the out-feed side of my fence need to be as
>compared to the in-feed side?
The problem with this is that, unlike a jointer, both sides of your table
fence, which is serving as the table, are coplanar.
The proper way to use a router as an edge jointer is by running it along a
straight edge guide clamped to the work.
And if he does not have a split fence, try:
Get a solid straight piece of wood, say 1-1/2" thick,
three to four inches wide and as long as your router
table.
Cut out a semi-circle where the router bit goes. Select
a size about twice the diameter of your edging bit. So
if you use a 3/4" bit for the router, make your semi
circle about 1-1/2" in diameter.
Get a length of vertical and general purpose plastic
laminate. A bit wider as the wood above is thick, and each
piece about 1/2" as long as the wood above is long.
Glue the vertical grade on the "infeed" side of the stick
and the general purpose plastic laminate on the "outfeed"
side. The difference between the two is usually between
1/32" to 1/16".
Trim up the plastic laminate.
Thus both surfaces get a long lasting wear surface.
To use, one uses another straight edge placed along the
outfeed side and will position the fence so it just
touches the router bit when the bit goes through the
widest part of it cutting circle. The router is unplugged
during this part for safety reasons.
Another method to position the fence is trial and error,
with the routor turned off for each adjustment until
the fence is correctly positioned.
--
Think thrice, measure twice and cut once.
Sanding is like paying taxes ... everyone has to do it, but it is
important to take steps to minimize it.
There is only one period and no underscores in the real email address.
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I did this for many years, split fence, simple 1/4" collet sears router.
(27years ago, when all I knew was sears). One day while using the 1/4"
straight bit broke and flew past my ear, I was lucky. I remember the eiry
sound as it flew past. Make sure you use a 1/2" shank bit. If I were to
use a router as a jointer again, I'd make a jig with a straight edge so I
wouldn't be using the router upside down.
Phil
Chip wrote:
> As so many of us have to deal with, my shop size is small and so is my
> budget. I try to make do with what I have. As a result, I've been
> learning about using my router and it's table as an edge jointer. My
> principle reason for edging is of course edge gluing.
>
> Has anyone else used this method? Any hints on using it effectivly and
> efficiently? How far does the out-feed side of my fence need to be as
> compared to the in-feed side?
What, you can't do this on your table saw??
I am "jointer challenged" but I prepare glue ups on my table saw from
time to time. Anything under 3 foot ling- I can make a nice butt
joint just using the table saw.
-Dan V.
On 25 Jan 2004 17:22:23 -0800, [email protected] (Chip) wrote:
>As so many of us have to deal with, my shop size is small and so is my
>budget. I try to make do with what I have. As a result, I've been
>learning about using my router and it's table as an edge jointer. My
>principle reason for edging is of course edge gluing.
>
>Has anyone else used this method? Any hints on using it effectivly and
>efficiently? How far does the out-feed side of my fence need to be as
>compared to the in-feed side?
Chip wrote:
>
> As so many of us have to deal with, my shop size is small and so is my
> budget. I try to make do with what I have. As a result, I've been
> learning about using my router and it's table as an edge jointer. My
> principle reason for edging is of course edge gluing.
>
> Has anyone else used this method? Any hints on using it effectivly and
> efficiently? How far does the out-feed side of my fence need to be as
> compared to the in-feed side?
Instead of using the router as a jointer, what about just
using it to route a straight line, or better yet route a
groove (full depth) between two boards. Clamp the boards
down with a space of 1/8 to 1/4 inch less than the width of
the straight bit. Then clamp a straight edge on one board
to put the bit down the center of the space. Even if the
router turns some as you move it, and even if the straight
edge isn't perfectly straight you should still end up with
the edges that are mirrors and fit together.
I've never used this method but I don't see why it wouldn't
work. If anyone has used this method and found a problem,
maybe they will comment.
I have used the straightedge method but with the router in the table.
Used a flush trimming bit and let the bearing ride along the straight
edge. Eliminates any chance of rotating the base.
John
Leon wrote:
> The router, table, and fence are short and will not work well unless you are
> going to joint really short boards. You could however clamp a straight edge
> on top of your board and use that straight edge to guide your router. If
> you use this method be sure not to spin the router as you slide it along the
> straight edge guide. Most bases and or guide bushings are not perfectly
> centered to the bit and may cause an edge that is not straight.
>
>
>
>
> "Chip" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>As so many of us have to deal with, my shop size is small and so is my
>>budget. I try to make do with what I have. As a result, I've been
>>learning about using my router and it's table as an edge jointer. My
>>principle reason for edging is of course edge gluing.
>>
>>Has anyone else used this method? Any hints on using it effectivly and
>>efficiently? How far does the out-feed side of my fence need to be as
>>compared to the in-feed side?
>
>
>
Good basic points raised here Leon. I don't know why, but if you talk about
jointing with a jointer, a lot of people will mention the length of the
tables as crucial, but when talk switches to using router tables and a
fence, the focus seems to be on getting the outfeed fence and the bit flush
(when talking jointers this usually only comes up during fault finding
discussions). Although important in their own right, such items are
secondary to the fence length being appropriate for the job.
For those that want to challenge this statement, look at all the jointer
posts, rarely, if ever, will anyone say ensure the outfeed table and cutters
are level - its usually accepted as a "given". The router fence performs the
same role
For a successful joint to be achieved on the router table, the length of the
fence is important but often overlooked. Perhaps the focus is too tool
centric, rather than process oriented.
Greg
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The router, table, and fence are short and will not work well unless you
are
> going to joint really short boards. You could however clamp a straight
edge
> on top of your board and use that straight edge to guide your router.
I do it all the time with excellent results. My router table has a split
fence. When I want to edge join some boards, I slip an old hacksaw blade
behind the outfeed fence and align the fence with the cutter. Works like a
charm if the wood face has been planed or is reasonably flat.
HTH,
Vic
"Chip" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> As so many of us have to deal with, my shop size is small and so is my
> budget. I try to make do with what I have. As a result, I've been
> learning about using my router and it's table as an edge jointer. My
> principle reason for edging is of course edge gluing.
>
> Has anyone else used this method? Any hints on using it effectivly and
> efficiently? How far does the out-feed side of my fence need to be as
> compared to the in-feed side?
---
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In article <[email protected]>, "Duane" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Not sure how to explain this properly, but the one tip I didn't see
>mentioned that I do.
>
>Mark the boards after laying out, first edge route (with the offset fence)
>good side up, next board edge with the good side down and so on.
>This method will washout any issues with the router not being perpendicular
>to the table.
>
But it works only if the boards have been jointed flat on one face, and the
opposite faces planed too. If the OP is able to face-joint a board, he can
joint the edges with the same method.
--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
In article <[email protected]>, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>spoken in the inimitable style of a...JERK!
>
Pot - kettle - black
--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
> The problem with this is that, unlike a jointer, both sides of your table
> fence, which is serving as the table, are coplanar.
Not if he has a split fence.
"Bruce" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In rec.woodworking
> [email protected] (Chip) wrote:
>
> >As so many of us have to deal with, my shop size is small and so is my
> >budget. I try to make do with what I have. As a result, I've been
> >learning about using my router and it's table as an edge jointer. My
> >principle reason for edging is of course edge gluing.
> >
> >Has anyone else used this method? Any hints on using it effectivly and
> >efficiently? How far does the out-feed side of my fence need to be as
> >compared to the in-feed side?
>
> The problem with this is that, unlike a jointer, both sides of your table
> fence, which is serving as the table, are coplanar.
>
> The proper way to use a router as an edge jointer is by running it along a
> straight edge guide clamped to the work.
Not sure how to explain this properly, but the one tip I didn't see
mentioned that I do.
Mark the boards after laying out, first edge route (with the offset fence)
good side up, next board edge with the good side down and so on.
This method will washout any issues with the router not being perpendicular
to the table.
Duane
spoken in the inimitable style of a...JERK!
dave
Doug Miller wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Geez, Doug, do you think you answered his question???
>
>
> Just once, think before you post, Dave, even it hurts.
>
> IF he's face-jointing the boards somehow, he can use the same method to
> edge-joint them -- and if he *isn't* face-jointing them, then he needs to find
> some way of doing that *first* before he can successfully edge-joint them on a
> router table -- and then he can use that method to edge-joint them too.
>
> So YES, I did answer his question. Maybe not the way he was expecting. But I
> did answer it. Sorry it was too difficult for you.
>
>>sigh.
>>
>>
>>dave
>>
>>Doug Miller wrote:
>>
>>
>>>In article <[email protected]>,
>>
>>[email protected] (Chip) wrote:
>>
>>>>As so many of us have to deal with, my shop size is small and so is my
>>>>budget. I try to make do with what I have. As a result, I've been
>>>>learning about using my router and it's table as an edge jointer. My
>>>>principle reason for edging is of course edge gluing.
>>>>
>>>
>>>Whatever method you are using now for face jointing should work equally well
>>>for edge jointing... shouldn't it?
>>>
>>>--
>>>Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>>>
>>>How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss
>>
>>America?
>>
>
>
> --
> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>
> How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
you went down without a fight!
I'm disappointed in you. :)
I'll get over it.
dave
Doug Miller wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>spoken in the inimitable style of a...JERK!
>>
>
> Pot - kettle - black
>
> --
> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>
> How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> The router, table, and fence are short and will not work well unless you are
> going to joint really short boards. You could however clamp a straight edge
> on top of your board and use that straight edge to guide your router. If
> you use this method be sure not to spin the router as you slide it along the
> straight edge guide. Most bases and or guide bushings are not perfectly
> centered to the bit and may cause an edge that is not straight.
>
There's also the old trick of clamping the two boards to be joined with a
gap between them a little smaller than the routher bit. Clamp the
straight edge so the router bites into both boards. Same principle as
jointing two boards with a hand plane.
--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?
> Larry Blanchard [email protected] wrote:
>
>In article <[email protected]>,
>[email protected] says...
>> The router, table, and fence are short and will not work well unless you
>are
>> going to joint really short boards. You could however clamp a straight
>edge
>> on top of your board and use that straight edge to guide your router. If
>> you use this method be sure not to spin the router as you slide it along
>the
>> straight edge guide. Most bases and or guide bushings are not perfectly
>> centered to the bit and may cause an edge that is not straight.
>>
>There's also the old trick of clamping the two boards to be joined with a
>gap between them a little smaller than the routher bit. Clamp the
>straight edge so the router bites into both boards. Same principle as
>jointing two boards with a hand plane.
>
I have had a problem with the hand plane thought for years, it just does not
compute for me. I've done the routing of 2 boards like your example, done it
with a circular saw too, done it to miters with a dovetail saw to finis a miter
cut. Someday I've got to take the time & try the hand plane. In my mind, if I'm
planing along on the edges of 2 boards and I have a smooth edge that would
indicate to me that I've done enough. But my mind says "Scott, there's matching
hills & valleys in them there boards, ain't no way in hell you've got a glue
joint."
What am I not seeing here? I've got a #6C that I could try..needs some tuning
but it's available. I'm about as far as you can get from being a neander so
please use the small words if you respond. :-)
Scott
--
An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms up later,
the damage remains.
Hopefully you're not seeing light between the boards. Small words, and good
advice here as elsewhere, "full-length strokes."
Of course, the limit of error in the worst case would be twice the blade
exposure, so a thin shaving is a good idea....
"Scott Brownell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have had a problem with the hand plane thought for years, it just does
not
> compute for me. I've done the routing of 2 boards like your example, done
it
> with a circular saw too, done it to miters with a dovetail saw to finis a
miter
> cut. Someday I've got to take the time & try the hand plane. In my mind,
if I'm
> planing along on the edges of 2 boards and I have a smooth edge that
would
> indicate to me that I've done enough. But my mind says "Scott, there's
matching
> hills & valleys in them there boards, ain't no way in hell you've got a
glue
> joint."
>
> What am I not seeing here? I've got a #6C that I could try..needs some
tuning
> but it's available. I'm about as far as you can get from being a neander
so
> please use the small words if you respond. :-)
[email protected] (Scott Brownell) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I have had a problem with the hand plane thought for years, it just does not
> compute for me. I've done the routing of 2 boards like your example, done it
> with a circular saw too, done it to miters with a dovetail saw to finis a miter
> cut. Someday I've got to take the time & try the hand plane. In my mind, if I'm
> planing along on the edges of 2 boards and I have a smooth edge that would
> indicate to me that I've done enough. But my mind says "Scott, there's matching
> hills & valleys in them there boards, ain't no way in hell you've got a glue
> joint."
>
> What am I not seeing here? I've got a #6C that I could try..needs some tuning
> but it's available. I'm about as far as you can get from being a neander so
> please use the small words if you respond. :-)
OK, here goes: Practice, practice, practice. :-)
Our own Jeff Gorman had a nice way of approaching it. He said you
should try to make the board concave. Assuming the length of the
plane is not too much less than that of the board, you will be unable
to do it. But in the process, you should have a board that is very
close to straight (and it won't be convex).
Start your stroke towards the center of the board and proceed to
lengthen your stroke a little at a time, until you are taking a
full-length shaving. That should do it.
Chuck Vance
[email protected] (Scott Brownell) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > Larry Blanchard [email protected] wrote:
<snip>
> >There's also the old trick of clamping the two boards to be joined with a
> >gap between them a little smaller than the routher bit. Clamp the
> >straight edge so the router bites into both boards. Same principle as
> >jointing two boards with a hand plane.
> >
>
> I have had a problem with the hand plane thought for years, it just does not
> compute for me. I've done the routing of 2 boards like your example, done it
> with a circular saw too, done it to miters with a dovetail saw to finis a miter
> cut. Someday I've got to take the time & try the hand plane. In my mind, if I'm
> planing along on the edges of 2 boards and I have a smooth edge that would
> indicate to me that I've done enough. But my mind says "Scott, there's matching
> hills & valleys in them there boards, ain't no way in hell you've got a glue
> joint."
It's my understanding that the point of planing the boards
side-by-side is not to get uniformity along the length of the joint
but rather to compensate for any deviation you have from a right
angle. The idea is that you place the two edges together before
planing. Then you flip one of the boards 180 degrees about its long
axis so the planed edges come together. Even if you've planed a
noticable bevel on each board, the sum of the angles will be exactly
180 degrees (i.e. will result in a flat panel). This will, in
principle, work even for large deviations from 90 degrees. HTH.
Cheers,
Mike
> What am I not seeing here? I've got a #6C that I could try..needs some tuning
> but it's available. I'm about as far as you can get from being a neander so
> please use the small words if you respond. :-)
btw: I like your implication that neanders are more than just
monosyllabic brutes. :-)
Thanks to those who posted such great comments! When I first started
reading the follow-up posts, I thought I raised a real sh*t storm
again. POssibly I could have eliminated some of the tension by first
announcing I am a Newbie (does that help lower the tension?). Simple
question I thought. Great answers. Thank you.
I had learned about clamping the two pieces to be jointed together and
running a plane down both at the same time. This way, even if not
square to one another, they form complimentary angles. I guess this
would be the same as the one follow-up about using a router vs. the
plane.
Thanks again.
[email protected] (Chip) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> As so many of us have to deal with, my shop size is small and so is my
> budget. I try to make do with what I have. As a result, I've been
> learning about using my router and it's table as an edge jointer. My
> principle reason for edging is of course edge gluing.
>
> Has anyone else used this method? Any hints on using it effectivly and
> efficiently? How far does the out-feed side of my fence need to be as
> compared to the in-feed side?
There was an article about this recently in one of the woodworking
magazines. Popular Woodworking I think it was....... May have been the
issue that covered jigs and fixtures. Am doing this myself. planned on
having my auxiliary fence (mine is mounted to my table saw) 1/16"
thicker from the midline on and covered with UHMW. Will simply adjust
the fence so that the straight bit is flush with the thicker part of the
aux fence.
Any advice from someone who has done this would be most welcome. Have
bought the UHMW but have not managed to assemble everything yet. Too
many other projects going on right now....
Thanks in advance,
Bill
--
"Do what you can, with what you have, where you are."
-Theodore Roosevelt
"Chip" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> As so many of us have to deal with, my shop size is small and so is my
> budget. I try to make do with what I have. As a result, I've been
> learning about using my router and it's table as an edge jointer. My
> principle reason for edging is of course edge gluing.
>
> Has anyone else used this method? Any hints on using it effectivly and
> efficiently? How far does the out-feed side of my fence need to be as
> compared to the in-feed side?
The router, table, and fence are short and will not work well unless you are
going to joint really short boards. You could however clamp a straight edge
on top of your board and use that straight edge to guide your router. If
you use this method be sure not to spin the router as you slide it along the
straight edge guide. Most bases and or guide bushings are not perfectly
centered to the bit and may cause an edge that is not straight.
"Chip" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> As so many of us have to deal with, my shop size is small and so is my
> budget. I try to make do with what I have. As a result, I've been
> learning about using my router and it's table as an edge jointer. My
> principle reason for edging is of course edge gluing.
>
> Has anyone else used this method? Any hints on using it effectivly and
> efficiently? How far does the out-feed side of my fence need to be as
> compared to the in-feed side?
In article <[email protected]>, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>Geez, Doug, do you think you answered his question???
Just once, think before you post, Dave, even it hurts.
IF he's face-jointing the boards somehow, he can use the same method to
edge-joint them -- and if he *isn't* face-jointing them, then he needs to find
some way of doing that *first* before he can successfully edge-joint them on a
router table -- and then he can use that method to edge-joint them too.
So YES, I did answer his question. Maybe not the way he was expecting. But I
did answer it. Sorry it was too difficult for you.
>
>sigh.
>
>
>dave
>
>Doug Miller wrote:
>
>> In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] (Chip) wrote:
>>
>>>As so many of us have to deal with, my shop size is small and so is my
>>>budget. I try to make do with what I have. As a result, I've been
>>>learning about using my router and it's table as an edge jointer. My
>>>principle reason for edging is of course edge gluing.
>>>
>>
>> Whatever method you are using now for face jointing should work equally well
>> for edge jointing... shouldn't it?
>>
>> --
>> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>>
>> How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss
> America?
>
--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
Geez, Doug, do you think you answered his question???
sigh.
dave
Doug Miller wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] (Chip) wrote:
>
>>As so many of us have to deal with, my shop size is small and so is my
>>budget. I try to make do with what I have. As a result, I've been
>>learning about using my router and it's table as an edge jointer. My
>>principle reason for edging is of course edge gluing.
>>
>
> Whatever method you are using now for face jointing should work equally well
> for edge jointing... shouldn't it?
>
> --
> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>
> How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] (Chip) wrote:
>As so many of us have to deal with, my shop size is small and so is my
>budget. I try to make do with what I have. As a result, I've been
>learning about using my router and it's table as an edge jointer. My
>principle reason for edging is of course edge gluing.
>
Whatever method you are using now for face jointing should work equally well
for edge jointing... shouldn't it?
--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 18:52:22 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>, "Duane" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>Not sure how to explain this properly, but the one tip I didn't see
>>mentioned that I do.
>>
>>Mark the boards after laying out, first edge route (with the offset fence)
>>good side up, next board edge with the good side down and so on.
>>This method will washout any issues with the router not being perpendicular
>>to the table.
>>
>But it works only if the boards have been jointed flat on one face, and the
>opposite faces planed too. If the OP is able to face-joint a board, he can
>joint the edges with the same method.
Doug and Dave seem to have a small war going on. I use a "Job-Site"
edge jointer all the time with my router. A basic router table with a
modified fence does the trick for me. Run your fence halfway though
the tablesaw taking off a mere 1/32" or so. Clamp it down on the table
and edge joint to your hearts content.
the issue is NOT how far out from the infeed side. the issue is that
the outfeed needs to be flush with the cutter. adjust the router bit
for a small cleanup cut and set the outfeed side so it supports the
workpiece (meaning that the outfeed will be set ever so slightly proud
of the infeed side). typical cutting depth would be around 1/32" or
1/16" but it doesn't have to be any particular dimension, as you can
adjust the fence to the router bit, regardless of measured depth of cut.
dave
Chip wrote:
> As so many of us have to deal with, my shop size is small and so is my
> budget. I try to make do with what I have. As a result, I've been
> learning about using my router and it's table as an edge jointer. My
> principle reason for edging is of course edge gluing.
>
> Has anyone else used this method? Any hints on using it effectivly and
> efficiently? How far does the out-feed side of my fence need to be as
> compared to the in-feed side?
I have used an old drywall t-square and a flush trim bit that has the
bearing on the top. This method has worked well many times that the shop
was just too far to go for one last piece. I don't know if I would want to
use this method as my primary method, but it can provide and acceptable edge
for jointing. One thing I will point out is that it takes more clamping
force that spring clamps can produce, and it doesn't seem to matter how many
you use. DAMHIKT.
Howard
"Chip" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> As so many of us have to deal with, my shop size is small and so is my
> budget. I try to make do with what I have. As a result, I've been
> learning about using my router and it's table as an edge jointer. My
> principle reason for edging is of course edge gluing.
>
> Has anyone else used this method? Any hints on using it effectivly and
> efficiently? How far does the out-feed side of my fence need to be as
> compared to the in-feed side?