The only transparent finish I've ever used on pine is "natural" (Watco
Danish, then a couple coats of poly)
Now I have a lady customer who wants a large bookcase in pine and she says
she wants a "pecan" colored finish.
She has some shelves that someone did a long time ago and she insists they
used a "pecan" stain of some sort.
What's the best way to go with this?
Polyshades? gel?
Help!!
Max
1. Make sure to use a pre-stain conditioner, sanding sealer or wash
coat of shellac before applying stain to Pine, otherwise you will get
big time blotchy.
2. Use Minwax Pecan oil stain.
3. It will be important to do a top coat of some sort to get the same
luster to the finish if she really wants a match.
4. If the finish is a low sheen, AND if the Minwax Pecan comes in
their Gel variety, you might get lucky and be able to use the Gel with
no top coat.
5. The only way to be sure the client is happy (or at least to force
them to take the piece) is to do the proposed finish completely as it
will be delivered on a piece at least 4" x 12" and get them to sign it
as aproved.
6. I say Minwax on all of this because you can get 1/2 pint cans for
testing for only $5.
On Jun 17, 7:20 pm, "Max" <[email protected]> wrote:
> The only transparent finish I've ever used on pine is "natural" (Watco
> Danish, then a couple coats of poly)
> Now I have a lady customer who wants a large bookcase in pine and she says
> she wants a "pecan" colored finish.
> She has some shelves that someone did a long time ago and she insists they
> used a "pecan" stain of some sort.
> What's the best way to go with this?
> Polyshades? gel?
> Help!!
>
> Max
One caution if you have the time. The Minwax pre-stain seems to
indicate on the label that you can wash it on, wipe it off an
immediately apply the stain. This is an OK way to work but I tested
this directly along with other methods and found that the Minwax pre-
stain was as good as any other material but gave much better results
if you let it dry completly (12-24 hrs) before applying the stain.
On Jun 19, 11:58 am, "Max" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > "Max" t> wrote
>
> >> I feel reasonably confident that she will settle for "close" since she
> >> has several other projects that are only "close".
> >> But your idea is a good one. I'll make up a sample for her to approve.
>
> > I had a customer who would approve of a finish and change her story
> > afterwards. So I insisted she sign a document. She would still object,
> > but she still signed. And bitched and moaned anyway. It was a family thing
> > that I couldn't get out of.
>
> > After years of not having to deal with this crap, I was suddenly placed
> > into the position of dealing with this monster person all over again. I
> > did two things.
>
> > I charged, in advance, for finish and samples. After much complaining she
> > paid. I prepared the boards with the various finishes and presented them
> > to her.
>
> > Then I told her that she would have to sign the back of the board with the
> > finish she selected. She refused and I never had to work for the witch
> > again.
>
> > Not that I am complaining or anything.
>
> I'm using Minwax prestain conditioner and Minwax pecan oil stain. Looks
> acceptable but it's not anything I would want in my house.
> She says it's great. Whatever floats your boat. <G>
>
> Max- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
"Max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The only transparent finish I've ever used on pine is "natural" (Watco
> Danish, then a couple coats of poly)
> Now I have a lady customer who wants a large bookcase in pine and she says
> she wants a "pecan" colored finish.
> She has some shelves that someone did a long time ago and she insists
> they used a "pecan" stain of some sort.
> What's the best way to go with this?
The best way is take a piece from the existing shelves along with a
sample of the new pine to your paint store and ask them to match the color.
We happen to like (and use) Benjamin Moore products. The downside to that
approach is that Southwestern Paint here in Houston only matches stain at
their West Gray location and when matching will only do a gallon minimum and
that was $36 and tax.
--
NuWave Dave in Houston
On Sun, 17 Jun 2007 20:20:31 -0600, "Max"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>The only transparent finish I've ever used on pine is "natural" (Watco
>Danish, then a couple coats of poly)
>Now I have a lady customer who wants a large bookcase in pine and she says
>she wants a "pecan" colored finish.
> She has some shelves that someone did a long time ago and she insists they
>used a "pecan" stain of some sort.
>What's the best way to go with this?
>Polyshades? gel?
>Help!!
>
>Max
>
Pine likes to blotch, so I like to use a sanding sealer before
staining and use a gel stain. The end-grain tends to stain much
darker otherwise. Finish a scrap pine piece then show it to the
customer.
"Max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The only transparent finish I've ever used on pine is "natural" (Watco
> Danish, then a couple coats of poly)
> Now I have a lady customer who wants a large bookcase in pine and she says
> she wants a "pecan" colored finish.
> She has some shelves that someone did a long time ago and she insists
> they used a "pecan" stain of some sort.
> What's the best way to go with this?
> Polyshades? gel?
> Help!!
I've used Minwax Pecan stain with good results. The other piece has
probably darkened with age so you won't get a perfect match. Show her the
can of pecan stain and she is more likely to accept whatever it looks like.
The can says pecan so it must be the right stuff.
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> The only transparent finish I've ever used on pine is "natural" (Watco
>> Danish, then a couple coats of poly)
>> Now I have a lady customer who wants a large bookcase in pine and she
>> says she wants a "pecan" colored finish.
>> She has some shelves that someone did a long time ago and she insists
>> they used a "pecan" stain of some sort.
>> What's the best way to go with this?
>> Polyshades? gel?
>> Help!!
>
> I've used Minwax Pecan stain with good results. The other piece has
> probably darkened with age so you won't get a perfect match.
>Show her the can of pecan stain and she is more likely to accept whatever
>it looks like. The can says pecan so it must be the right stuff.
Now there's a good idea. <G>
Max
Max wrote:
> The only transparent finish I've ever used on pine is "natural" (Watco
> Danish, then a couple coats of poly)
> Now I have a lady customer who wants a large bookcase in pine and she
> says she wants a "pecan" colored finish.
> She has some shelves that someone did a long time ago and she
> insists they used a "pecan" stain of some sort.
> What's the best way to go with this?
> Polyshades? gel?
> Help!!
>
> Max
No matter what you do, unless you either give her a sample/s first for
approval, or get a piece of her material, IME it will not be good enough for
her; it won't match because you'll have no idea how dark or anything else.
HTH
Pop`
"Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Max" t> wrote
>>
>> I feel reasonably confident that she will settle for "close" since she
>> has several other projects that are only "close".
>> But your idea is a good one. I'll make up a sample for her to approve.
>>
>
> I had a customer who would approve of a finish and change her story
> afterwards. So I insisted she sign a document. She would still object,
> but she still signed. And bitched and moaned anyway. It was a family thing
> that I couldn't get out of.
>
> After years of not having to deal with this crap, I was suddenly placed
> into the position of dealing with this monster person all over again. I
> did two things.
>
> I charged, in advance, for finish and samples. After much complaining she
> paid. I prepared the boards with the various finishes and presented them
> to her.
>
> Then I told her that she would have to sign the back of the board with the
> finish she selected. She refused and I never had to work for the witch
> again.
>
> Not that I am complaining or anything.
I'm using Minwax prestain conditioner and Minwax pecan oil stain. Looks
acceptable but it's not anything I would want in my house.
She says it's great. Whatever floats your boat. <G>
Max
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote
> One caution if you have the time. The Minwax pre-stain seems to
> indicate on the label that you can wash it on, wipe it off an
> immediately apply the stain. This is an OK way to work but I tested
> this directly along with other methods and found that the Minwax pre-
> stain was as good as any other material but gave much better results
> if you let it dry completly (12-24 hrs) before applying the stain.
>> I'm using Minwax prestain conditioner and Minwax pecan oil stain. Looks
>> acceptable but it's not anything I would want in my house.
>> She says it's great. Whatever floats your boat. <G>
>>
>> Max
I happened upon that solution by experiment. You're right. <G>
Max
"Max" t> wrote
>
> I feel reasonably confident that she will settle for "close" since she has
> several other projects that are only "close".
> But your idea is a good one. I'll make up a sample for her to approve.
>
I had a customer who would approve of a finish and change her story
afterwards. So I insisted she sign a document. She would still object, but
she still signed. And bitched and moaned anyway. It was a family thing that
I couldn't get out of.
After years of not having to deal with this crap, I was suddenly placed into
the position of dealing with this monster person all over again. I did two
things.
I charged, in advance, for finish and samples. After much complaining she
paid. I prepared the boards with the various finishes and presented them to
her.
Then I told her that she would have to sign the back of the board with the
finish she selected. She refused and I never had to work for the witch
again.
Not that I am complaining or anything.
"Pop`" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Xaxdi.6604$Fk7.2460@trnddc01...
> Max wrote:
>> The only transparent finish I've ever used on pine is "natural" (Watco
>> Danish, then a couple coats of poly)
>> Now I have a lady customer who wants a large bookcase in pine and she
>> says she wants a "pecan" colored finish.
>> She has some shelves that someone did a long time ago and she
>> insists they used a "pecan" stain of some sort.
>> What's the best way to go with this?
>> Polyshades? gel?
>> Help!!
>>
>> Max
>
> No matter what you do, unless you either give her a sample/s first for
> approval, or get a piece of her material, IME it will not be good enough
> for her; it won't match because you'll have no idea how dark or anything
> else.
>
> HTH
> Pop`
I feel reasonably confident that she will settle for "close" since she has
several other projects that are only "close".
But your idea is a good one. I'll make up a sample for her to approve.
Max
"Dave in Houston" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> The only transparent finish I've ever used on pine is "natural" (Watco
>> Danish, then a couple coats of poly)
>> Now I have a lady customer who wants a large bookcase in pine and she
>> says she wants a "pecan" colored finish.
>> She has some shelves that someone did a long time ago and she insists
>> they used a "pecan" stain of some sort.
>> What's the best way to go with this?
>
> The best way is take a piece from the existing shelves along with a
> sample of the new pine to your paint store and ask them to match the
> color. We happen to like (and use) Benjamin Moore products. The downside
> to that approach is that Southwestern Paint here in Houston only matches
> stain at their West Gray location and when matching will only do a gallon
> minimum and that was $36 and tax.
> --
> NuWave Dave in Houston
I would have to take a whole shelf but that's not impossible.
I have enough profit in the job to be *somewhat* unconcerned about material
cost.
Finding a place to do the matching is what will be a challenge.
Max