My Jet Contractor's saw does not have a flat on the blade shaft. To hold
the blade while tightening or loosening I have the following shop made
tool:
Take a 1 x 4 about 17 inches long. Place two 8 x 1" round head brass
wood screws 3/4 " from one edge of the board, 4 inches from each end,
leaving enough shank exposed to slip into a slot on the blade.
It is used by holding along the blade with the screw in a slot on the
side of blade that would be forced downward by loosening the blade. When
tightening slide the board so that the other screw holds the downward
force on the blade.
Drill a hole in one end to hang it by and Bob's your uncle.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
...........................................
Marriage is the only union that cannot
be organized. Both sides think they're
management.
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For years I had used a wood block jammed against the teeth to hold the
blade. This puts stress on a single tooth, but never saw any problem.
The screw is not against a tooth, but in the slot between groups of
teeth. But point well taken, I won't forget my umbrella.
Bob Davis wrote:
>
> Not to rain on your parade, Gerald, but using any kind of mechanical holder
> that applies stress at one particular tooth is definitely not recommended.
> I've read this caution in manufacturer's literature (I think it was with my
> woodworker II papers). The simplest, yet highly effective advice I read was
> to grab a heavy rag, wrap it around the blade and grasp it tightly. It
> doesn't put any stress on the blade teeth and its easily available (and
> "free").
>
> Bob
>
> "Gerald Ross" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > My Jet Contractor's saw does not have a flat on the blade shaft. To hold
> > the blade while tightening or loosening I have the following shop made
> > tool:
> >
> > Take a 1 x 4 about 17 inches long. Place two 8 x 1" round head brass
> > wood screws 3/4 " from one edge of the board, 4 inches from each end,
> > leaving enough shank exposed to slip into a slot on the blade.
> >
> > It is used by holding along the blade with the screw in a slot on the
> > side of blade that would be forced downward by loosening the blade. When
> > tightening slide the board so that the other screw holds the downward
> > force on the blade.
> >
> > Drill a hole in one end to hang it by and Bob's your uncle.
> > --
> >
> > Gerald Ross
> > Cochran, GA
> > ...........................................
> > Marriage is the only union that cannot
> > be organized. Both sides think they're
> > management.
> >
> >
> > -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
> > http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> > -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
...........................................
Marriage is the only union that cannot
be organized. Both sides think they're
management.
-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
One of the woodworking mags I read a while back suggested using a clamp like
a Quick-Grip to clamp onto the blade. The clamp is trapped by the opening.
todd
"Bob Davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Not to rain on your parade, Gerald, but using any kind of mechanical
holder
> that applies stress at one particular tooth is definitely not recommended.
> I've read this caution in manufacturer's literature (I think it was with
my
> woodworker II papers). The simplest, yet highly effective advice I read
was
> to grab a heavy rag, wrap it around the blade and grasp it tightly. It
> doesn't put any stress on the blade teeth and its easily available (and
> "free").
>
> Bob
>
>
> "Gerald Ross" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > My Jet Contractor's saw does not have a flat on the blade shaft. To hold
> > the blade while tightening or loosening I have the following shop made
> > tool:
> >
> > Take a 1 x 4 about 17 inches long. Place two 8 x 1" round head brass
> > wood screws 3/4 " from one edge of the board, 4 inches from each end,
> > leaving enough shank exposed to slip into a slot on the blade.
> >
> > It is used by holding along the blade with the screw in a slot on the
> > side of blade that would be forced downward by loosening the blade. When
> > tightening slide the board so that the other screw holds the downward
> > force on the blade.
> >
> > Drill a hole in one end to hang it by and Bob's your uncle.
> > --
> >
> > Gerald Ross
> > Cochran, GA
> > ...........................................
> > Marriage is the only union that cannot
> > be organized. Both sides think they're
> > management.
> >
> >
> > -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
> > http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> > -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
>
>
B a r r y B u r k e J r . wrote:
> I have since moved to the leather glove technique. I just like it
> better, but can't really explain why <G>
Real men do it without a glove.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
Not to rain on your parade, Gerald, but using any kind of mechanical holder
that applies stress at one particular tooth is definitely not recommended.
I've read this caution in manufacturer's literature (I think it was with my
woodworker II papers). The simplest, yet highly effective advice I read was
to grab a heavy rag, wrap it around the blade and grasp it tightly. It
doesn't put any stress on the blade teeth and its easily available (and
"free").
Bob
"Gerald Ross" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My Jet Contractor's saw does not have a flat on the blade shaft. To hold
> the blade while tightening or loosening I have the following shop made
> tool:
>
> Take a 1 x 4 about 17 inches long. Place two 8 x 1" round head brass
> wood screws 3/4 " from one edge of the board, 4 inches from each end,
> leaving enough shank exposed to slip into a slot on the blade.
>
> It is used by holding along the blade with the screw in a slot on the
> side of blade that would be forced downward by loosening the blade. When
> tightening slide the board so that the other screw holds the downward
> force on the blade.
>
> Drill a hole in one end to hang it by and Bob's your uncle.
> --
>
> Gerald Ross
> Cochran, GA
> ...........................................
> Marriage is the only union that cannot
> be organized. Both sides think they're
> management.
>
>
> -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
On Wed, 31 Dec 2003 22:15:52 -0600, "todd"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>One of the woodworking mags I read a while back suggested using a clamp like
>a Quick-Grip to clamp onto the blade. The clamp is trapped by the opening.
I've used that technique with good results. When the blade gets tight
enough, the clamp slips.
I have since moved to the leather glove technique. I just like it
better, but can't really explain why <G>
Barry