Is there a reason the drawer slides ( accuride type ball bearing slides) are
attached to the middle of the drawer sides instead of the bottom. Is this a
personal preference or a load bearing issue? Maybe a carry over from methods
when using wooden slides? Looks to me like it would be a lot easier to align
the drawers by placing the slides on the bottom of the sides. Most
woodworking shows and the books I have looked at show them placed in the
middle. I have not built any drawers yet but am getting ready to make some
soon.
Any information on the placing of the slide portion to get correct alignment
would be appreciated too
Thanks
CC
email address foiled to help reduce spam. Reply to lamp dot lighter at att
dot net
Chris Melanson wrote:
> Mark check out the link these slides are the undermounts I use they do not
> extend below the drawer and are perfect for showing dovetails. You do not
> even see the slide with these ones.
> http://www.blum.com/group/en/03/03/04/index.jsp;jsessionid=0000omfJ-k3YKo7c4zmkcx0zMKO:-1
Thanks, Chris.
I'll be looking into these.
--
Mark
N.E. Ohio
Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart. (S. Clemens, A.K.A.
Mark Twain)
When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure ends the suspense.
(Gaz, r.moto)
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Thanks for all the information from everyone that replied. Looks like it is
> a matter of personal preference, but Leon mentioned to be careful the screws
> on the drawer mount slide do not go into the dado at the bottom of the side
> rails for the drawer bottom.
> I had not thought of that and will watch for it.
> CC
On the drawers I have built, I make the dado slightly higher in order
to allow the screws to engage the wood without going through the dado.
I put the dado 3/8" above the bottom and used 3/8" long screws (the
slide provides the margin. Downside is you do lose some interior
volume.
Chris Melanson wrote:
> Why don't you just use under mount full extension slides???????????
>
> CHRIS
>
Because the slide would extend into the drawer below it except for the bottom
drawer. It's slide would be recessed into the 3/4 inch ply base.
In reference to:
>>
>>I'm a sick puppy. I like making more work for myself.
>>
>>I have a set of drawers I need to make as wide as possible in a 24" deep
>
> hole.
>
>>I'm using 3/4 poplar for sides with a 3/8 dado in which to recess the
>
> slides and
>
>>appropriate relief (if needed) routed in for the unlatching levers. The
>
> 1/8 the
>
>>slide would protrude from the drawer side would be for gap between the
>
> cabinet
>
>>stile and flush face. I figure a 24" hole, 22" slide and 20" (or 18")
>
> drawer
>
>>will allow a sufficient setback from the front to not interfere with the
>
> visual
>
>>of the dovetail fronts, to get acceptable extension and use the built in
>
> stops
>
>>for the flush faces.
>>
>>
>>Why do I hurt myself like this? The cabinets themselves are unnecessarily
>>complicated. And getting worse.
>>
>>--
>>--
>>
>>Mark
>>
>>N.E. Ohio
>>
>>
>>Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart. (S. Clemens,
>
> A.K.A.
>
>>Mark Twain)
>>
>>When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure ends the
>
> suspense.
>
>>(Gaz, r.moto)
>>
>
>
>
--
--
Mark
N.E. Ohio
Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart. (S. Clemens, A.K.A.
Mark Twain)
When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure ends the suspense.
(Gaz, r.moto)
Why don't you just use under mount full extension slides???????????
CHRIS
"Mark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:gYmic.64358$B%[email protected]...
>
>
> Mark & Juanita wrote:
> > In article <[email protected]>,
> > [email protected] says...
> >
> >>Thanks for all the information from everyone that replied. Looks like it
is
> >>a matter of personal preference,......
> >>CC
> >
> >
> > On the drawers I have built, I make the dado slightly higher in order
> > to allow the screws to engage the wood without going through the dado.
> > I put the dado 3/8" above the bottom and used 3/8" long screws (the
> > slide provides the margin. Downside is you do lose some interior
> > volume.
>
>
>
> I'm a sick puppy. I like making more work for myself.
>
> I have a set of drawers I need to make as wide as possible in a 24" deep
hole.
>
> I'm using 3/4 poplar for sides with a 3/8 dado in which to recess the
slides and
> appropriate relief (if needed) routed in for the unlatching levers. The
1/8 the
> slide would protrude from the drawer side would be for gap between the
cabinet
> stile and flush face. I figure a 24" hole, 22" slide and 20" (or 18")
drawer
> will allow a sufficient setback from the front to not interfere with the
visual
> of the dovetail fronts, to get acceptable extension and use the built in
stops
> for the flush faces.
>
>
> Why do I hurt myself like this? The cabinets themselves are unnecessarily
> complicated. And getting worse.
>
> --
> --
>
> Mark
>
> N.E. Ohio
>
>
> Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart. (S. Clemens,
A.K.A.
> Mark Twain)
>
> When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure ends the
suspense.
> (Gaz, r.moto)
>
On Thu, 22 Apr 2004 22:43:19 GMT, "CC" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Is there a reason the drawer slides ( accuride type ball bearing slides) are
>attached to the middle of the drawer sides instead of the bottom. Is this a
>personal preference or a load bearing issue? Maybe a carry over from methods
>when using wooden slides? Looks to me like it would be a lot easier to align
>the drawers by placing the slides on the bottom of the sides. Most
>woodworking shows and the books I have looked at show them placed in the
>middle. I have not built any drawers yet but am getting ready to make some
>soon.
>Any information on the placing of the slide portion to get correct alignment
>would be appreciated too
The center position works better in a shop that uses line boring
equipment as part of their 32mm work. For small shops that don't use
the production equipment it really doesn't matter.
I prefer using the bottom mount, because I usually dovetail the
drawers and want to see as much of the result as possible (without
recourse to the more expensive undermount slides).
Accuride used to have a template available for downloading from their
website.
I prefer to mount the slide on the bottom of the drawer as it is much
quicker to set the slide and drawer on a flat surface and use the surface
for alignment. Placing the slide any where else on the side requires a jig
or a tape measure. If you do use the bottom of the drawer however you need
to allow for the drawer to be shorter for those instances when the drawer
height is close to the opening height as the bottom mounted slide will lift
the drawer off the opening bottom 1/4" or more.
Keep in mind also that bottom mounting may situate the mounting screws such
that they go in to the drawer bottom dado and may not hold as well. Caution
should be used when determining the location of the drawer bottom.
Mark check out the link these slides are the undermounts I use they do not
extend below the drawer and are perfect for showing dovetails. You do not
even see the slide with these ones.
http://www.blum.com/group/en/03/03/04/index.jsp;jsessionid=0000omfJ-k3YKo7c4zmkcx0zMKO:-1
CHRIS
"Mark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:BwHic.70165$B%[email protected]...
>
>
> Chris Melanson wrote:
> > Why don't you just use under mount full extension slides???????????
> >
> > CHRIS
> >
>
>
> Because the slide would extend into the drawer below it except for the
bottom
> drawer. It's slide would be recessed into the 3/4 inch ply base.
>
> In reference to:
>
> >>
> >>I'm a sick puppy. I like making more work for myself.
> >>
> >>I have a set of drawers I need to make as wide as possible in a 24" deep
> >
> > hole.
> >
> >>I'm using 3/4 poplar for sides with a 3/8 dado in which to recess the
> >
> > slides and
> >
> >>appropriate relief (if needed) routed in for the unlatching levers. The
> >
> > 1/8 the
> >
> >>slide would protrude from the drawer side would be for gap between the
> >
> > cabinet
> >
> >>stile and flush face. I figure a 24" hole, 22" slide and 20" (or 18")
> >
> > drawer
> >
> >>will allow a sufficient setback from the front to not interfere with the
> >
> > visual
> >
> >>of the dovetail fronts, to get acceptable extension and use the built in
> >
> > stops
> >
> >>for the flush faces.
> >>
> >>
> >>Why do I hurt myself like this? The cabinets themselves are
unnecessarily
> >>complicated. And getting worse.
> >>
> >>--
> >>--
> >>
> >>Mark
> >>
> >>N.E. Ohio
> >>
> >>
> >>Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart. (S. Clemens,
> >
> > A.K.A.
> >
> >>Mark Twain)
> >>
> >>When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure ends the
> >
> > suspense.
> >
> >>(Gaz, r.moto)
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> --
>
> Mark
>
> N.E. Ohio
>
>
> Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart. (S. Clemens,
A.K.A.
> Mark Twain)
>
> When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure ends the
suspense.
> (Gaz, r.moto)
>
Mark & Juanita wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] says...
>
>>Thanks for all the information from everyone that replied. Looks like it is
>>a matter of personal preference,......
>>CC
>
>
> On the drawers I have built, I make the dado slightly higher in order
> to allow the screws to engage the wood without going through the dado.
> I put the dado 3/8" above the bottom and used 3/8" long screws (the
> slide provides the margin. Downside is you do lose some interior
> volume.
I'm a sick puppy. I like making more work for myself.
I have a set of drawers I need to make as wide as possible in a 24" deep hole.
I'm using 3/4 poplar for sides with a 3/8 dado in which to recess the slides and
appropriate relief (if needed) routed in for the unlatching levers. The 1/8 the
slide would protrude from the drawer side would be for gap between the cabinet
stile and flush face. I figure a 24" hole, 22" slide and 20" (or 18") drawer
will allow a sufficient setback from the front to not interfere with the visual
of the dovetail fronts, to get acceptable extension and use the built in stops
for the flush faces.
Why do I hurt myself like this? The cabinets themselves are unnecessarily
complicated. And getting worse.
--
--
Mark
N.E. Ohio
Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart. (S. Clemens, A.K.A.
Mark Twain)
When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure ends the suspense.
(Gaz, r.moto)
On Thu, 22 Apr 2004 22:43:19 GMT, "CC" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Is there a reason the drawer slides ( accuride type ball bearing slides) are
>attached to the middle of the drawer sides instead of the bottom. Is this a
>personal preference or a load bearing issue? Maybe a carry over from methods
>when using wooden slides? Looks to me like it would be a lot easier to align
>the drawers by placing the slides on the bottom of the sides. Most
>woodworking shows and the books I have looked at show them placed in the
>middle. I have not built any drawers yet but am getting ready to make some
>soon.
>Any information on the placing of the slide portion to get correct alignment
>would be appreciated too
>Thanks
>CC
>
>email address foiled to help reduce spam. Reply to lamp dot lighter at att
>dot net
>
I put the bottom edge of the glide flush with the bottom edge of the
drawer. just seems easiest for me....
Like Tom said it is more personal preference than any thing. I prefer the
middle mount route as I find it easier to position the drawers themselves.
If I may add something about full extension slides. On the drawer side
hardware put the slide 3/32 back from the front of your drawer and your
cabinet side hardware flush with the face of your cabinet.You will find that
your drawer closes better and your gap between the carcass and your drawer
front is already set also you will no longer require bumpers for stops. You
will also have a nice quality solid feel when you close your drawers because
the slides already have a bumper built into them at the rear of the cabinet
side hardware.
CHRIS
"CC" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Is there a reason the drawer slides ( accuride type ball bearing slides)
are
> attached to the middle of the drawer sides instead of the bottom. Is this
a
> personal preference or a load bearing issue? Maybe a carry over from
methods
> when using wooden slides? Looks to me like it would be a lot easier to
align
> the drawers by placing the slides on the bottom of the sides. Most
> woodworking shows and the books I have looked at show them placed in the
> middle. I have not built any drawers yet but am getting ready to make some
> soon.
> Any information on the placing of the slide portion to get correct
alignment
> would be appreciated too
> Thanks
> CC
>
> email address foiled to help reduce spam. Reply to lamp dot lighter at
att
> dot net
>
>
Thanks for all the information from everyone that replied. Looks like it is
a matter of personal preference, but Leon mentioned to be careful the screws
on the drawer mount slide do not go into the dado at the bottom of the side
rails for the drawer bottom.
I had not thought of that and will watch for it.
CC
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I prefer to mount the slide on the bottom of the drawer as it is much
> quicker to set the slide and drawer on a flat surface and use the surface
> for alignment. Placing the slide any where else on the side requires a
jig
> or a tape measure. If you do use the bottom of the drawer however you
need
> to allow for the drawer to be shorter for those instances when the drawer
> height is close to the opening height as the bottom mounted slide will
lift
> the drawer off the opening bottom 1/4" or more.
>
> Keep in mind also that bottom mounting may situate the mounting screws
such
> that they go in to the drawer bottom dado and may not hold as well.
Caution
> should be used when determining the location of the drawer bottom.
>
>