Pocket Screws hands down. Have not used a dowel since getting the Kreg jig.
You won't regret it!!!
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What's the best system for making face frames.
> Mikey
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What's the best system for making face frames.
> Mikey
I bought the Kreg Pro Pack. Love it! I may never use my buscuit joiner
again!
Greg
On Fri, 04 Jun 2004 18:52:02 GMT, Mark <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>Yeah, once you get the slippage problem handled.
Did your pocket hole kit not come with a clamp and instructions?
Barry
On Fri, 04 Jun 2004 20:19:54 -0500, Rick Samuel <[email protected]> wrote:
> Pocket screws, but on the bottom rail, I add biscuits to
> keep every thing lined up.
Hi, Rick.
You mean the cabinet bottom, or what are you keeping lined up
with the biscuits? I've been looking for an excuse (er, I
mean 'reason') to buy a biscuit cutter, y'see.
Dave Hinz
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Clearly the mass of opinion favors pocket screws, and I agree that they are
> great provided:
> 1) you don't care about the ugly holes they leave, which is generally
> true for face frames and
> 2) you accept the fact that occasionally a screw will split the second
> member of the joint (no pilot hole is drilled).
>
3) You don't subscribe to the view that fine woodworking doesn't
include metal fasteners of any kind.
I've got a few doweling jigs, including two old Stanley #59s
(IIRC), and I like them.
--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?
> What's the best system for making face frames.
> Mikey
Pocket Holes in my opinion.
I have a review of the Kreg system on my site if interested.
www.onlinetoolreviews.com
--
Regards,
Dean Bielanowski
Editor,
Online Tool Reviews
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
Over 50 woodworking product reviews online!
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<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What's the best system for making face frames.
> Mikey
I've never used dowels, but it's hard to imagine them being any
easier/faster to use than pocket screws.
todd
CW wrote:
> And has the one advantage that it give you something to do.
> Pocket screws are just a bit to fast, eh?
I was out to the shop this morning to try out a new clamping
strategy for these things. Time to ready workpiece: 11 seconds;
time to cut a single joint in a 1x4: 39 seconds. I'm working to
reduce the cutting time and think I'll be able to shrink it to 30
seconds or less per joint.
For all of that, speed isn't my primary goal. What I'm after is a
really strong lap joint that requires no fasteners and can be
assembled by unskilled people - and still be *perfectly* square
every time.
An unlooked-for benefit is that the same joint can be used to
splice boards end-to-end, which I don't think I'd care to try
with pocket hole joinery...
I confess that I've never timed myself at the Kreg jig, but I
honestly don't think it's actually any faster when joint assembly
time is figured in.
You're right, it has kept me off the street and (more or less)
out of trouble for several days now (-:
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA
You MUST clamp any material prior to driving screws.
Kreg sells the proper face frame clamp designed for
this purpose.
You can "sneak" one in on occasion but power driving a
pocket hole screw will result in movement unless the
material is clamped.
Mark wrote:
>
>
> TDUP wrote:
>
> Yeah, once you get the slippage problem handled.
>
> --
>
> Mark
On Sat, 05 Jun 2004 07:59:32 GMT, Mark <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Sometimes things can't be clamped.
Like what?
I've found that some things are difficult to clamp, but I've never
seen something that CAN'T be clamped. <G>
Maybe we can suggest a method for the oddball situations?
Barry
B a r r y wrote:
> On Fri, 04 Jun 2004 18:52:02 GMT, Mark <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>>Yeah, once you get the slippage problem handled.
>
>
> Did your pocket hole kit not come with a clamp and instructions?
Yes, fact is it came with two clamps.
Sometimes things can't be clamped.
--
--
Mark
N.E. Ohio
In theory there is no difference between theory and practice, but in practice
there is.
Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart. (S. Clemens, A.K.A.
Mark Twain)
When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure ends the suspense.
(Gaz, r.moto)
"Mark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> Sometimes things can't be clamped.
>
If it can't be clamped... weld it.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Anything can be clamped.
"Mark" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:E3fwc.26875
> Sometimes things can't be clamped.
[email protected] wrote:
> What's the best system for making face frames.
I've been partial to the Kreg pocket hole system; but have been
working on a locking lap joint that I like even better. I cut the
first one today. It's still a bit rough; but you can see it at
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/LLJ_040604.gif.
The joint in the photo was cut into a 2x4 (a bit large for face
frames) because it was cheap and handy; but the joint could just
as easily have been done in any size board...
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA
Pocket screws, but on the bottom rail, I add biscuits to
keep every thing lined up.
[email protected] wrote:
> What's the best system for making face frames.
> Mikey
And has the one advantage that it give you something to do. Pocket screws
are just a bit to fast, eh?
"Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> [email protected] wrote:
>
> > What's the best system for making face frames.
>
> I've been partial to the Kreg pocket hole system; but have been
> working on a locking lap joint that I like even better. I cut the
> first one today. It's still a bit rough; but you can see it at
> http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/LLJ_040604.gif.
>
> The joint in the photo was cut into a 2x4 (a bit large for face
> frames) because it was cheap and handy; but the joint could just
> as easily have been done in any size board...
>
> --
> Morris Dovey
> DeSoto, Iowa USA
>
On Sat, 5 Jun 2004 08:53:07 -0700, Larry Blanchard
<[email protected]> wrote:
|In article <[email protected]>,
|[email protected] says...
|> Clearly the mass of opinion favors pocket screws, and I agree that they are
|> great provided:
|> 1) you don't care about the ugly holes they leave, which is generally
|> true for face frames and
|> 2) you accept the fact that occasionally a screw will split the second
|> member of the joint (no pilot hole is drilled).
|>
|3) You don't subscribe to the view that fine woodworking doesn't
|include metal fasteners of any kind.
Sorry, I can't help myself.[g]
On several of my projects, I've used screws to fasten the tabletop to
the carcase. What should I have done instead?
TDUP wrote:
> Pocket Screws hands down. Have not used a dowel since getting the Kreg jig.
> You won't regret it!!!
Yeah, once you get the slippage problem handled.
--
Mark
N.E. Ohio
In theory there is no difference between theory and practice, but in practice
there is.
Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart. (S. Clemens, A.K.A.
Mark Twain)
When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure ends the suspense.
(Gaz, r.moto)
"Mark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> TDUP wrote:
>
> > Pocket Screws hands down. Have not used a dowel since getting the Kreg
jig.
> > You won't regret it!!!
>
> Yeah, once you get the slippage problem handled.
> Mark
It's called a clamp. There was a nice shiny one in the kit I bought.
Slippage problem solved.
todd
Clearly the mass of opinion favors pocket screws, and I agree that they are
great provided:
1) you don't care about the ugly holes they leave, which is generally
true for face frames and
2) you accept the fact that occasionally a screw will split the second
member of the joint (no pilot hole is drilled).
Jay Knepper
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What's the best system for making face frames.
> Mikey