I tried a felt disk (with the Veritas honing compound) on a flat
platter sharpening system (I built it as a copy of the Veritas design)
and the felt disk did the best sharpening job of any method I have
used.
I just wondered if anyone uses a hard felt wheel on a grinder with the
Veritas green honing compound and what you have found using that.
It would appear that leather (if I could charge it well enough) would
be even better since it is harder and would not seem to have a tendancy
to round the edge. I have one cut out to put on my platter (the
Veritas knock-off), but when I first got it it was stiff and was not
flat (It is a really thick piece of saddle leather). I have soffened
it a little, but the smooth side is hard to charge. The more suede
side seems very rough--rougher than the felt.
What approach do you use to manually strop a chisel? I would think
that the only direction you could use with a chisel would be away from
the edge which seems like a hard way to sharpen a chisel.
"eganders" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I tried a felt disk (with the Veritas honing compound) on a flat
> platter sharpening system (I built it as a copy of the Veritas design)
> and the felt disk did the best sharpening job of any method I have
> used.
>
> I just wondered if anyone uses a hard felt wheel on a grinder with the
> Veritas green honing compound and what you have found using that.
>
Been stropping my carving tools on similar for years.
"eganders" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I just wondered if anyone uses a hard felt wheel on a grinder with the
>Veritas green honing compound and what you have found using that.
I use this for honing carving chisels (works fine) but not for bench
chisels (a leather strop is a lot handier).
Ken Muldrew
[email protected]
(remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
"eganders" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It would appear that leather (if I could charge it well enough) would
> be even better since it is harder and would not seem to have a tendancy
> to round the edge. I have one cut out to put on my platter (the
> Veritas knock-off), but when I first got it it was stiff and was not
> flat (It is a really thick piece of saddle leather). I have soffened
> it a little, but the smooth side is hard to charge. The more suede
> side seems very rough--rougher than the felt.
>
Felt under power is pretty rigid. How you hold and press the tool
determines whether or not you round over.
I strop away on leather, just like the barber. Same on felt. As to
"microbevels," makes a better edge with stropping, doesn't remove enough
material to matter.
Australopithecus scobis wrote:
>>I just wondered if anyone uses a hard felt wheel on a grinder with the
>>Veritas green honing compound and what you have found using that.
>
>
> Leonard Lee "The Complete Guide to Sharpening" He's got the electron
> micrographs.
I ordered that last week and the Titless Wonders[1] only today sent me
an email saying there'd be a delay.
er
--
email not valid
1. I don't need to explain that... right?
Walt Cheever wrote:
> I've been using one on a vertical grinder with white compound to put a razor
> edge on lathe skew chisels. Works very well. Never thought of using it
> horizontally.
>
> What speed is it spinning at?
>
> Walt C
>
>
> "eganders" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>I tried a felt disk (with the Veritas honing compound) on a flat
>>platter sharpening system (I built it as a copy of the Veritas design)
>>and the felt disk did the best sharpening job of any method I have
>>used.
>>
>>I just wondered if anyone uses a hard felt wheel on a grinder with the
>>Veritas green honing compound and what you have found using that.
And I'd be interested in knowing how that setup would work on a chisel
with a microbevel. Maybe if the blade edge were immediately adjacent to
the edge of the platter it would be more efficient?
Just curious (and ignorant, but want sharp tools)... I just got a
grinder and I'm tempted to put a felt wheel on it just to try and I'm
thinking a microbevel would prevent the wheel fibers from reaching the
tip of the blade. And how much bother would this be compared to just
having a strop handy next to the workpiece?
er
--
email not valid
eganders wrote:
> It would appear that leather (if I could charge it well enough) would
> be even better since it is harder and would not seem to have a tendancy
> to round the edge. I have one cut out to put on my platter (the
> Veritas knock-off), but when I first got it it was stiff and was not
> flat (It is a really thick piece of saddle leather). I have soffened
> it a little, but the smooth side is hard to charge. The more suede
> side seems very rough--rougher than the felt.
>
> What approach do you use to manually strop a chisel? I would think
> that the only direction you could use with a chisel would be away from
> the edge which seems like a hard way to sharpen a chisel.
>
I have a piece of belt leather about 8" long glued to a bit of timber.
Give it a dose of whiting every now and again and it sharpens chisels
beautifully.
regards
John
Enoch Root <[email protected]> wrote:
> Australopithecus scobis wrote:
>
>>>I just wondered if anyone uses a hard felt wheel on a grinder
>>>with the Veritas green honing compound and what you have found
>>>using that.
>>
>>
>> Leonard Lee "The Complete Guide to Sharpening" He's got the
>> electron micrographs.
>
> I ordered that last week and the Titless Wonders[1] only today
> sent me an email saying there'd be a delay.
>
>--
>email not valid
>1. I don't need to explain that... right?
Well, no, but as I recall they only cut off ONE tit, to keep it from
getting in the way of a bowstring.
I've been using one on a vertical grinder with white compound to put a razor
edge on lathe skew chisels. Works very well. Never thought of using it
horizontally.
What speed is it spinning at?
Walt C
"eganders" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I tried a felt disk (with the Veritas honing compound) on a flat
> platter sharpening system (I built it as a copy of the Veritas design)
> and the felt disk did the best sharpening job of any method I have
> used.
>
> I just wondered if anyone uses a hard felt wheel on a grinder with the
> Veritas green honing compound and what you have found using that.
>
"eganders" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I tried a felt disk (with the Veritas honing compound) on a flat
> platter sharpening system (I built it as a copy of the Veritas design)
> and the felt disk did the best sharpening job of any method I have
> used.
>
> I just wondered if anyone uses a hard felt wheel on a grinder with the
> Veritas green honing compound and what you have found using that.
>
I have a couple of leather, hand made strops that I have charged up with the
green compound. Works great.
[I stuck a bunch of replies in the same post for your filtering pleasure.]
On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 10:11:18 -0800, Enoch Root wrote:
> thinking a microbevel would prevent the wheel fibers from reaching the
> tip of the blade. And how much bother would this be compared to just
> having a strop handy next to the workpiece?
Forget the rest of the bevel. Work out the geometry just for the
microbevel. The powered version just works faster.
On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 10:32:24 -0800, eganders wrote:
> that the only direction you could use with a chisel would be away from
> the edge which seems like a hard way to sharpen a chisel.
You're not sharpening; you're honing. Grinder shapes, stone sharpens,
strop hones.
On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 22:55:39 +0000, John B wrote:
> I have a piece of belt leather about 8" long glued to a bit of timber.
> Give it a dose of whiting every now and again and it sharpens chisels
> beautifully.
( This guy doesn't shave the hairs off his arm, he cuts 'em lengthwise! )
On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 10:36:49 -0800, eganders wrote:
> Sharpening knives seems good with a strop, but I can't see how you can
> maintain the correct angle easily. I would assume that you have to
> draw it only 1 way (away from the edge) or you would cut the surface of
> the leather.
Honing, not sharpening. Practice, practice, practice, and check out some
websites (dags) on honing straight razors. Strop away from the edge: it
matters a lot for razors, but with knives it's just protecting the strop.
"eganders" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I just wondered if anyone uses a hard felt wheel on a grinder with the
> Veritas green honing compound and what you have found using that.
Leonard Lee "The Complete Guide to Sharpening" He's got the electron
micrographs.
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
wreck20051219 at spambob.net
David wrote:
> Enoch Root wrote:
>> I just got a
>> grinder and I'm tempted to put a felt wheel on it just to try and I'm
>> thinking a microbevel would prevent the wheel fibers from reaching the
>> tip of the blade.
> No, the microbevel won't prevent stropping or using a felt wheel to
> further refine the edge.
Maybe you were answering to this, but I was thinking specifically of
when the chisel is being supported by a plate (which my understanding
led me to believe was for the purpose of preventing rounding over of the
edge while being stropped by the felt wheel...)
Now, do the plate and the inset caused by the microbevel serve to remove
the edge from the effective range of the wheel?
------------,
`
CHISEL ` <- bevel (say, 30 deg.)
` ,- area occluded
` /
microbevel (> 30 deg.) -> \x`,
_____________________________\xxx` ,
-------------------------------------- <- PLATE
'scuse my ASCII, I imagine that'll look like dreck in a browser. I
imagine placing the edge near the edge of the plate would take care of
that (if it's an issue...)
er
--
email not valid