ppl,
I recently tried (again) to clamp a thick piece of good wood to the
side of a #5 jack plane so's to keep the edge I was planing,
perpendicular to the face. AFAIK, the wood was square and smooth.
Once more, the plane would just not cut with the "fence" attached,
even though it was doing great on its own.
Why does adding this edge fence thing, interfere so much with the
action of the blade?
Feels a lot like when trying to use a multi-plane, which seems to
resist all efforts to do more than rise a little dust?
thanks-
James
[email protected]
Fri, Jan 23, 2004, 9:49pm [email protected] (brocpuffs) laments:
<snip> Once more, the plane would just not cut <snip>
You sure you had it plugged in?
JOAT
You have two choices in life: You can dissolve into the mainstream, or
you can be distinct. To be distinct is to be different. To be different,
you must strive to be what no one else but you can be.
- Alan Ashley-Pitt=A0=A0=A0
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 24 Jan 2004.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
> >
> >I recently tried (again) to clamp a thick piece of good wood to the
> >side of a #5 jack plane so's to keep the edge I was planing,
> >perpendicular to the face. AFAIK, the wood was square and smooth.
>
>
> >Once more, the plane would just not cut with the "fence" attached,
> >even though it was doing great on its own.
> >
> >Why does adding this edge fence thing, interfere so much with the
> >action of the blade?
>
Cut to the chase. Get the Veritas plane fence. Earth magents
hold it on the side of #4 - #7s at least, Threaded peg in it
sticks out over the top edge of the casting to keep it from
rotation along the long axis. Bottom of the fence jogs in
under the edge of the bottom of the plane so all of the
cutting iron is exposed. You need about 2 1/2" of the stock
above the vise jaws though.
Really works - I check with a machinist square.
charlie b
Hell, go whole hog and get the shoulder plane. Rabbets up to 1/2
beautifully against a fence. Does shoulders, too.
NB: whenever you rabbet, pays to scribe the line with your utility knife,
unless you've a real rabbet plane with a nicker.
"charlie b" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Cut to the chase. Get the Veritas plane fence. Earth magents
> hold it on the side of #4 - #7s at least, Threaded peg in it
> sticks out over the top edge of the casting to keep it from
> rotation along the long axis. Bottom of the fence jogs in
> under the edge of the bottom of the plane so all of the
> cutting iron is exposed. You need about 2 1/2" of the stock
> above the vise jaws though.
>
> Really works - I check with a machinist square.
>
> charlie b
Bridger wrote:
> you can work around this by rabbetting your fence a bit so the rub
> face reaches the blade.
Ladies and Gentleman we have a winner!
Good reasoning.
Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
George wrote:
>
> Hell, go whole hog and get the shoulder plane. Rabbets up to 1/2
> beautifully against a fence. Does shoulders, too.
>
> NB: whenever you rabbet, pays to scribe the line with your utility knife,
> unless you've a real rabbet plane with a nicker.
>
I don't know if I should neener but I did get their shoulder plane
and
to neener some more, use the Tite-Mark to scribe shoulders.
But I think what he was looking for was a way to edge join a board
to square edges.
The Veritas fence eliminates the need to learn good planing technique
and, as noted, has some limitations, but hey - we don't need to know
how to plow with a horse anymore either. Some "accessories" are
gimmicks and some are short cuts.
charlie b
brocpuffs wrote:
> Once more, the plane would just not cut with the "fence" attached,
> even though it was doing great on its own.
>
> Why does adding this edge fence thing, interfere so much with the
> action of the blade?
It doesn't. I've used a fence lots of times. Biggest problem is holding
the fence off 1/4" or so in order to allow the entire blade to contact the
wood.
I made a handy dandy thing out of two pieces of angle iron, like thus
|
_==_
|
|
Plane clamps to the smaller piece. It works fine, but unfortunately the
angle iron isn't quite square, and it doesn't produce perfect 90-degree
angles. It took me a long time to discover that fact. It was a good idea,
but the materials I made it out of weren't up to the task.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 21:49:20 -0500, brocpuffs <[email protected]>
brought forth from the murky depths:
>
>ppl,
>
>I recently tried (again) to clamp a thick piece of good wood to the
>side of a #5 jack plane so's to keep the edge I was planing,
>perpendicular to the face. AFAIK, the wood was square and smooth.
Try a 3/4" dowel next time. Angle the plane so the iron is both
skewed and mating well centered on the wood. Scriiiiiitch!
>Once more, the plane would just not cut with the "fence" attached,
>even though it was doing great on its own.
>
>Why does adding this edge fence thing, interfere so much with the
>action of the blade?
Why? 'Cuz takes your focus away.
>Feels a lot like when trying to use a multi-plane, which seems to
>resist all efforts to do more than rise a little dust?
Kinda like standing on one foot, tilting your head back, closing
your eyes, hopping up and down, patting your head, and rubbing
your stomach, all at the same time? Humans don't multitask nearly
as well as computers.
------------------------------------------------------
No matter how hard you try, you cannot baptize a cat.
----------------------------
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
---------------------------------------------------
Never tried it my self, Are you sure the blade is good and sharp, and
adjusted side to side properly?
Tony D.
"brocpuffs" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> ppl,
>
> I recently tried (again) to clamp a thick piece of good wood to the
> side of a #5 jack plane so's to keep the edge I was planing,
> perpendicular to the face. AFAIK, the wood was square and smooth.
>
> Once more, the plane would just not cut with the "fence" attached,
> even though it was doing great on its own.
>
> Why does adding this edge fence thing, interfere so much with the
> action of the blade?
>
> Feels a lot like when trying to use a multi-plane, which seems to
> resist all efforts to do more than rise a little dust?
>
> thanks-
>
> James
> [email protected]
>
Okay. I will! :-) Actually an alternative to a shooting board. I was
having a bad day jointing a short board. So, I got another piece
almost identical to it in size and flat. I clamped the two boards to
my workbench/dining table (yeah yeah) so that the first board's edge
isslightly hanging over the second board's edge. So, one end is
clamped to my dining table *ahem* workbench and the other end I
clamped a stop to the table...workbench. I planed in the direction of
the stop and got a nice square edge. :-) Only took as much room as my
dining....workbench.
Layne
On Sat, 24 Jan 2004 14:23:01 -0500, brocpuffs <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Nobody get started on shooting boards, please. They work, they can
>take a lot of room.
On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 22:35:10 -0700, Bridger <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 21:49:20 -0500, brocpuffs <[email protected]>
>wrote:
I think you got me here, bridger. I was thinking about - well, I
dunno. Nuts.
Getting old. Still lotsa muscle, no brain-
James
[email protected]
On Sat, 24 Jan 2004 08:47:05 -0800, charlie b <[email protected]>
wrote:
> But I think what he was looking for was a way to edge join a board
> to square edges.
>
> The Veritas fence eliminates the need to learn good planing technique
> and, as noted, has some limitations, but hey - we don't need to know
> how to plow with a horse anymore either. Some "accessories" are
> gimmicks and some are short cuts.
>
> charlie b
Exactly, charlie. The wood "fence" I made was pretty dang square and
smooth and so on. I suspected technique. Thought I'd ask.
Nobody get started on shooting boards, please. They work, they can
take a lot of room.
I was looking for a way to edge plane/join a board on the fly, no
tailed tools, neither 110, 220 or JOAT :-)
James
[email protected]
Sat, Jan 24, 2004, 2:23pm [email protected] (brocpuffs) claims:
<snip> neither 110, 220 or JOAT :-)
Out of gas then, eh? LOL
JOAT
You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear". What do you
"know"?.
- Granny Weatherwax
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 25 Jan 2004.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
On Fri, 23 Jan 2004 21:49:20 -0500, brocpuffs <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>ppl,
>
>I recently tried (again) to clamp a thick piece of good wood to the
>side of a #5 jack plane so's to keep the edge I was planing,
>perpendicular to the face. AFAIK, the wood was square and smooth.
>
>Once more, the plane would just not cut with the "fence" attached,
>even though it was doing great on its own.
>
>Why does adding this edge fence thing, interfere so much with the
>action of the blade?
>
>Feels a lot like when trying to use a multi-plane, which seems to
>resist all efforts to do more than rise a little dust?
>
>thanks-
>
>James
>[email protected]
does the blade cut all of the way to the edge? a standard jack plane
doesn't. it'll cut a little, then the part of the sole between the
blade and the side lands on the workpiece, stopping further cutting.
you can work around this by rabbetting your fence a bit so the rub
face reaches the blade.
Bridger
>
> does the blade cut all of the way to the edge? a standard jack plane
> doesn't. it'll cut a little, then the part of the sole between the
> blade and the side lands on the workpiece, stopping further cutting.
> you can work around this by rabbetting your fence a bit so the rub
> face reaches the blade.
> Bridger
What he said. In addition, I'd make sure that fence was itself jointed and
waxed.
Cheers,
Eric