Hello, when I use the protractor thing in the track to guide a piece
through the saw I first square the angle to the upright blade with a
carpenters square. I can cut a fairly square 90 edge like this. When I
rotate the saw blade 45 degrees to cut a 45 on edge, the last inch
that goes through the blade is curved. The mitred corners are messed
up as a result. What am I doing wrong? Thanks for your time and happy
holidays.
"all thumbs" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello, when I use the protractor thing in the track to guide a piece
> through the saw I first square the angle to the upright blade with a
> carpenters square. I can cut a fairly square 90 edge like this. When I
> rotate the saw blade 45 degrees to cut a 45 on edge, the last inch
> that goes through the blade is curved. The mitred corners are messed
> up as a result. What am I doing wrong? Thanks for your time and happy
> holidays.
The wood could be sliding on the miter gauge toward the end of the cut?
--
Regards,
Dean Bielanowski
Editor
OnlineToolReviews.com
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
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all thumbs wrote:
> Hello, when I use the protractor thing in the track to guide a piece
> through the saw I first square the angle to the upright blade with a
> carpenters square. I can cut a fairly square 90 edge like this. When I
> rotate the saw blade 45 degrees to cut a 45 on edge, the last inch
> that goes through the blade is curved. The mitred corners are messed
> up as a result. What am I doing wrong? Thanks for your time and happy
> holidays.
A little suggestion.
Go to Library, get copy of Fred Bingham's book, Practical Yacht Joinery.
Tells you how to build a jig that produces dead nuts 45 degree miters
every time.
It's a no brainer.
Lew
all thumbs wrote:
> Hello, when I use the protractor thing in the track to guide a piece
> through the saw I first square the angle to the upright blade with a
> carpenters square. I can cut a fairly square 90 edge like this. When I
> rotate the saw blade 45 degrees to cut a 45 on edge, the last inch
> that goes through the blade is curved. The mitred corners are messed
> up as a result. What am I doing wrong? Thanks for your time and happy
> holidays.
And a little sandpaper glued to the miter gage can work on some... Then=20
the wood won't slide.
The sandpaper allows the wood to grip better. Then you don't usually=20
have to clamp the wood.
--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw
In article <[email protected]>,
Guess who <[email protected]> wrote:
> Blade not sharp?
I like this one!
In article <[email protected]>,
Lew Hodgett <[email protected]> wrote:
> all thumbs wrote:
> > Hello, when I use the protractor thing in the track to guide a piece
> > through the saw I first square the angle to the upright blade with a
> > carpenters square. I can cut a fairly square 90 edge like this. When I
> > rotate the saw blade 45 degrees to cut a 45 on edge, the last inch
> > that goes through the blade is curved. The mitred corners are messed
> > up as a result. What am I doing wrong? Thanks for your time and happy
> > holidays.
>
>
> A little suggestion.
>
> Go to Library, get copy of Fred Bingham's book, Practical Yacht Joinery.
>
Hey, Lew.... have you had a chance to compare Bingham's new(er) book?
Boat Joinery and Cabinetmaking Simplified.
Rob.
On Sun, 04 Dec 2005 07:39:50 GMT, all thumbs <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hello, when I use the protractor thing in the track to guide a piece
>through the saw I first square the angle to the upright blade with a
>carpenters square. I can cut a fairly square 90 edge like this. When I
>rotate the saw blade 45 degrees to cut a 45 on edge, the last inch
>that goes through the blade is curved. The mitred corners are messed
>up as a result. What am I doing wrong? Thanks for your time and happy
>holidays.
As others have suggested you might check that the blade is still
square when you tilt it but there might be another cause. Is your
workpiece 'above' or 'below' the cut?
As a general rule, one should try to cut so that a slight slip in the
workpiece simply causes the error to be on the fat side, rather than
the 'thin' side. In this case, it means that the waste should be on
the underside of the tilted blade so that if the workpiece lifts
slightly while working it through the blade, the edge will be slightly
fat and a second pass can easily trim off the excess.
There are lots of reasons that the workpiece could lift - poor
handling, the board warping due to heating of the cut, etc. As others
have noted, a TS is a precision tool because it pulls the workpiece
against the rigid top surface. However, when you have the blade
tilted at such an extreme angle the downward forces are reduced quite
a bit and other forces (for example, you are actually cutting 40% more
wood than the thickness of the material) tend to dominate.
A final possibility is that the blade is actually lifting (due to wear
or poor saw design) as you bring the workpiece through the cut. This
obviously doesn't affect you if the blade is set to 90 degrees and it
is a through cut but it will cause problems if your blade is tilted.
One way to check this is to run a 3/4 inch dado blade set at 90
degrees. Set the depth to a precise amount with the blade stationary
and then run a piece of scrap through (preferably hardwood) and see if
the cutting depth is actually deeper.
Some ideas to check...
TWS
On Sun, 04 Dec 2005 07:39:50 GMT, all thumbs <[email protected]> wrote:
>When I
>rotate the saw blade 45 degrees to cut a 45 on edge, the last inch
>that goes through the blade is curved. The mitred corners are messed
>up as a result. What am I doing wrong? Thanks for your time and happy
>holidays.
An old saying from my father: "Let the tool do the work." [He was
showing me how to use a hammer for the first time. He could use one
all day long without tiring.]
Blade not sharp? You are possibly bearing down too hard when passing
the wood through the saw. The stress eases at the end and you
naturally then shear away.
Make sure: Sharp blade [carbide?], right strength motor, right size
pulley for rotation speed. Then ... *some* pressure to direct the
wood, but ...let the tool do the work as you do enough only to guide
it. Same thing with sanding, chiselling, ...anything.
right angles don't tend to pull the wood into the blade 45s are much harder
this way. Also if you are off just a little it shows. If you can secure the
wood to the mitre you should get better results. This will even happen on a
mitre saw a little, if piece is clamped it will make a better cut.
"all thumbs" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello, when I use the protractor thing in the track to guide a piece
> through the saw I first square the angle to the upright blade with a
> carpenters square. I can cut a fairly square 90 edge like this. When I
> rotate the saw blade 45 degrees to cut a 45 on edge, the last inch
> that goes through the blade is curved. The mitred corners are messed
> up as a result. What am I doing wrong? Thanks for your time and happy
> holidays.