I've just finished my third woodworking project ever and it, uh, didn't turn
out so perfect. It's a simple chest made of out high quality 3/4" ply.
Plans for it can be seen at http://tinyurl.com/sg0q, although I've strayed a
bit from the original design by adding sliding doors.
The problem is that the carcass is less than square. It is about 1/16" off
across its length. I know, that's pretty god awful, but I'm not gonna scrap
what has been an otherwise successful project for that. I'm wondering if
there is a way to apply the face frame in such a way that will not
accentuate the fact that the piece is out of square. Currently the only
visual indication that the piece might not be at 90 degrees is the uneven
space where the sides of the carcass meet the sliding doors.
Thanks for any feedback
"Mitch Abaza" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I've just finished my third woodworking project ever and it, uh, didn't turn
> out so perfect. It's a simple chest made of out high quality 3/4" ply.
> Plans for it can be seen at http://tinyurl.com/sg0q, although I've strayed a
> bit from the original design by adding sliding doors.
>
> The problem is that the carcass is less than square. It is about 1/16" off
> across its length. I know, that's pretty god awful, but I'm not gonna scrap
> what has been an otherwise successful project for that. I'm wondering if
> there is a way to apply the face frame in such a way that will not
> accentuate the fact that the piece is out of square. Currently the only
> visual indication that the piece might not be at 90 degrees is the uneven
> space where the sides of the carcass meet the sliding doors.
>
> Thanks for any feedback
Mitch,
1/16" off is not that bad in my opinion. What I would do is make the
face frame 1/4" oversized so that it over-hangs the outer edge of your
cabinet by 1/8" all the way around. Attach the face frame with it
hanging over the cabinet a small bit, then trim it off with a
flush-trim bit & router. They even make special bits that put a
v-groove at the seem between the carcass & face-frame if you'd like
that effect. Make sense?
"J.B. Bobbitt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I can't get the link to work, so I can't see the plans and don;t know how
> the sliding doors will work in relation to a face frame. But, if it was
me,
> I'd trim the sliding door(s) to match the sides, and make the face-frame
> square to cover the out-of-square case.
>
> -JBB
This is the link:
http://www.blackanddecker.com/ProjectCenter/DocumentView.aspx?DOC_ID=p_2_51_16109_16125_16155.html
I can't get the link to work, so I can't see the plans and don;t know how
the sliding doors will work in relation to a face frame. But, if it was me,
I'd trim the sliding door(s) to match the sides, and make the face-frame
square to cover the out-of-square case.
-JBB
"Mitch Abaza" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've just finished my third woodworking project ever and it, uh, didn't
turn
> out so perfect. It's a simple chest made of out high quality 3/4" ply.
> Plans for it can be seen at http://tinyurl.com/sg0q, although I've strayed
a
> bit from the original design by adding sliding doors.
>
> The problem is that the carcass is less than square. It is about 1/16"
off
> across its length. I know, that's pretty god awful, but I'm not gonna
scrap
> what has been an otherwise successful project for that. I'm wondering if
> there is a way to apply the face frame in such a way that will not
> accentuate the fact that the piece is out of square. Currently the only
> visual indication that the piece might not be at 90 degrees is the uneven
> space where the sides of the carcass meet the sliding doors.
>
> Thanks for any feedback
>
>