In another attempt to increase the signal part of the group's
signal to noise ratio, I submit the following url to Loose
Tenon mortising jig inspired by the one in the April issue
of Popular Woodworking. (all one line so watch the line
wrap)
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/LooseTenonJig/LooseTenonJig1.html
There's three pages worth of stuff - a parts diagram, parts list with
dimensions and even a parts layout diagram and some tips to boot. Photos
of the various modes of the one I did are also included for folks who
like to look at pictures. I put these pages together mainly for Dave,
who
was having grief with M&T joints on the screen door he's making but
others may find the information sufficient to make their own and
discover
the joys of Loose Tenon M&T joints.
Now if Dave Fleming, Doug Stowe, Michael Dresdner, Mr. Lucas
and some of the other "former" semi-regulars would just come
back some of the newbies might realize how much this group has
deteriorated over the last 6 months.
Tom - thanks for hangin' in there (and some great tales!)
charlie b
(and Dave - lost your number and your spam mail address ...
I'm in the book - belden on herring - have some
chisels for you to try - still : ) )
Ken M. wrote:
>
> Nice jig Charlie. I did a similar one that was in Shopnotes Volume 11, Issue
> 64
> http://snow-bird.com/WoodWorks/Images/mortise_jig2.jpg
The one you built sure looks a lot nicer than the one I did.
Uses guide collars rather then an edge guide
Horizontal module has one of the two mitered corner modes
on the other end - fewer parts to lose! Good idea.
Is there a module to do mitered corners for a wrap around
grain mitered corners box?
Is there a module to do end grain?
The slot that acts as the quide looks like it would require
changing guide collars for differenct router bit diameters?
Or are there different top plates with difrent sized slots
for different bit sizes?
> What are your thoughts on rigging it to do the tenons?
That'd require another top plate with an added set of adjustable
stops - fore & aft, a different sized slot ....... And the alignment
of the part to be tenoned on two center lines would be tricky,
even with cross hairs because of parallex. Could be done
but the jig would be more complex to make - and to use.
Besides, loose tenons eliminate the need for cutting the
tenons, simplifying making M&T joints.
But with a precision edge guide on the router to control
front to back positioning I can dial in where I want the
bit to be, rather than relying on a slot and a guide collar.
(Am going to have to think about your idea though - FMT,
$700? Hmmmm)
> Now I'm resawing
> stock to the mortise thickness and rounding over the edges, then cutting to
> length.
Why not use ply for the loose tenons? And the ends don't
have to be half rounds - knock off the corners with a
block plane.
> Thanks for the informative post.
No problem and thanks for sharing the jig you did.
Always more than one way to skin a cat - FIGURATIVELY!
charlie b
Nice jig Charlie. I did a similar one that was in Shopnotes Volume 11, Issue
64
http://snow-bird.com/WoodWorks/Images/mortise_jig2.jpg
What are your thoughts on rigging it to do the tenons? Now I'm resawing
stock to the mortise thickness and rounding over the edges, then cutting to
length.
Thanks for the informative post.
ken
charlie - I've still got your phone number. I don't think
I've got the emails anymore. I'll call you. sorry for
reducing the signal to noise ratio. sometimes I have to
counter "bad" posts from the likes of TW with "bad" posts of
my own... Had TW not mentioned me about 5 times in his rant,
I wouldn't have said diddly squat to him tonight...sigh...
dave
charlie b wrote:
> In another attempt to increase the signal part of the group's
> signal to noise ratio, I submit the following url to Loose
> Tenon mortising jig inspired by the one in the April issue
> of Popular Woodworking. (all one line so watch the line
> wrap)
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/LooseTenonJig/LooseTenonJig1.html
>
> There's three pages worth of stuff - a parts diagram, parts list with
> dimensions and even a parts layout diagram and some tips to boot. Photos
> of the various modes of the one I did are also included for folks who
> like to look at pictures. I put these pages together mainly for Dave,
> who
> was having grief with M&T joints on the screen door he's making but
> others may find the information sufficient to make their own and
> discover
> the joys of Loose Tenon M&T joints.
>
> Now if Dave Fleming, Doug Stowe, Michael Dresdner, Mr. Lucas
> and some of the other "former" semi-regulars would just come
> back some of the newbies might realize how much this group has
> deteriorated over the last 6 months.
>
> Tom - thanks for hangin' in there (and some great tales!)
>
> charlie b
>
> (and Dave - lost your number and your spam mail address ...
> I'm in the book - belden on herring - have some
> chisels for you to try - still : ) )