Making my first raised panel doors for an armoire, and upon cleaning and
trimming up the bevelled edges, I thinned them down much too loose. Before
I trimmed them, they slid in with minimal friction (may have been too
tight), but now they slide in so fast that they looked like a guillotine
coming down as I slid them in. I am sure they are too loose now, they
rattle inside their frames. If they are this loose in May humidity, they
will be awful in January dry.
Can I shim the edges at all with thin strips of the same material to tighten
it up? Is there a better way? No, I am not going to make new panels.
--
Cheers!
Duke
Put a little caulking in the groove, one small dab in the top, the bottom
and one on each side. I would use painters caulk.
Dave
"Dukester" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Making my first raised panel doors for an armoire, and upon cleaning and
> trimming up the bevelled edges, I thinned them down much too loose.
Before
> I trimmed them, they slid in with minimal friction (may have been too
> tight), but now they slide in so fast that they looked like a guillotine
> coming down as I slid them in. I am sure they are too loose now, they
> rattle inside their frames. If they are this loose in May humidity, they
> will be awful in January dry.
>
> Can I shim the edges at all with thin strips of the same material to
tighten
> it up? Is there a better way? No, I am not going to make new panels.
>
> --
> Cheers!
> Duke
>
>
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TeamCasa writes:
>Put a little caulking in the groove, one small dab in the top, the bottom
>and one on each side. I would use painters caulk.
The only change I'd suggest here is to run a small bead of caulk, on a plastic
or glass surface, and let it dry. Then cut pieces about 1/8" to 1/4" long
(custom fit them).
That way, if you're as sloppy as I am, you don't have to worry about caulk on
the workpieces.
Charlie Self
"Bore, n.: A person who talks when you wish him to listen." Ambrose Bierce, The
Devil's Dictionary
It is an old term, old businesses such as the lumber and the printing
industry use the roman numeral "M" which means "thousand". In lumber it
means thousands of board feet, or pieces. In the printing industry it means
thousand sheets of paper or thousand printed items. I assume the
"spaceballs" are using their relationship to wood or lumber to mean
thousand.
Most people now know of the more modern metric "k" meaning thousand, as used
in the electronics and computer industry. So $25.00 per M means the same as
$25.00 per k.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%[email protected]...
> I went to their site and I wonder what an "M" quantity is. $25 per M.
>
>
>
Duke,
Several things you can do:
1. After panels are inserted and the rails and stiles are glued and cured,
center the panels then pin them top and bottom - center only - from the back
side. Use small headless brads (5/8" long) to insure they do not go thru to
the front. Panels can expand and contract sideways and remain centered.
Just be sure to finish the panels first before installing them into their
frames so when they do contract, you won't see bare wood around the edges of
the panels.
2. Use "Space Balls" or equivalent to insert in the grooves to keep the
panels centered and rattle free. Must have at least 1/8 to 3/16"" clearance
to allow room for the Space Balls. Other materials can be used but I like
using these since they do not deform and stay compressed like some other
materials (silicon, poly tubing, etc.). See this site
http://www.spaceballs.com/
Bob S.
"Dukester" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Making my first raised panel doors for an armoire, and upon cleaning and
> trimming up the bevelled edges, I thinned them down much too loose.
Before
> I trimmed them, they slid in with minimal friction (may have been too
> tight), but now they slide in so fast that they looked like a guillotine
> coming down as I slid them in. I am sure they are too loose now, they
> rattle inside their frames. If they are this loose in May humidity, they
> will be awful in January dry.
>
> Can I shim the edges at all with thin strips of the same material to
tighten
> it up? Is there a better way? No, I am not going to make new panels.
>
> --
> Cheers!
> Duke
>
>
You can also cut space balls with a utility knife to get a custom fit as
required.
Wayne,
"Bob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Duke,
>
> 2. Use "Space Balls" or equivalent to insert in the grooves to keep the
> panels centered and rattle free. Must have at least 1/8 to 3/16""
clearance
> to allow room for the Space Balls. Other materials can be used but I like
> using these since they do not deform and stay compressed like some other
> materials (silicon, poly tubing, etc.). See this site
> http://www.spaceballs.com/
>
> Bob S.
>
>
>
> "Dukester" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Making my first raised panel doors for an armoire, and upon cleaning and
> > trimming up the bevelled edges, I thinned them down much too loose.
> Before
> > I trimmed them, they slid in with minimal friction (may have been too
> > tight), but now they slide in so fast that they looked like a guillotine
> > coming down as I slid them in. I am sure they are too loose now, they
> > rattle inside their frames. If they are this loose in May humidity,
they
> > will be awful in January dry.
> >
> > Can I shim the edges at all with thin strips of the same material to
> tighten
> > it up? Is there a better way? No, I am not going to make new panels.
> >
> > --
> > Cheers!
> > Duke
> >
> >
>
>