I've been looking for a Uni for awhile now and one has popped up that sounds
really good. I'm going to look at it Saturday. It sounds like its a great
saw, except the price is quite a bit lower than what I was expecting to hear.
The guy wants 375 and according to a mutual friend who has seen it (but doesn't
really know saws) it doesn't look trashed. Motor and bearingds supposedly work
fine. It sounds like its an older model which is actually what I wanted. I
thought I knew a little about Uni's, but am I missing something? Is there a
model year or something I should avoid?
PS- No, you can't see it before me for informative purposes!!
On 08 Jan 2004 02:39:19 GMT, [email protected] (GBsCards) wrote:
>I've been looking for a Uni for awhile now and one has popped up that sounds
>really good. I'm going to look at it Saturday. It sounds like its a great
>saw, except the price is quite a bit lower than what I was expecting to hear.
>The guy wants 375 and according to a mutual friend who has seen it (but doesn't
>really know saws) it doesn't look trashed. Motor and bearingds supposedly work
>fine. It sounds like its an older model which is actually what I wanted. I
>thought I knew a little about Uni's, but am I missing something? Is there a
>model year or something I should avoid?
You mean like AMF Harleys?
Two things that I know of that will drive the price down are 3 phase
motors and the saw not actually being a Unisaw.
Delta made (makes?) a tilting arbor cabinet saw that Keith calls a
"Unisaw Lite" which I understand is basically a contractor saw's guts
in a cabinet. It was (is?) considerably less beefy and sold (sells?)
for considerably less than a true Unisaw.
The aforementioned Keith will be able to answer the Harley/AMF
question in the context of Unisaws or direct you to a place that can.
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
Please provide them if you would - I would be interested in puchashing but
would need specific information as to location and details of capture as
this helps determine value. Please don't forget shipping logistics.
Don
Unisaw A100 <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jon Endres wrote:
> >You can *collect* water with a spare $10 goose-egg cover.
>
> Now this sounds interesting. Is there a particular vintage
> of water I should be looking for? Is the water from one
> region more highly sought after than another region? I have
> some water and I was wondering what it was worth? I can
> supply pictures of the water upon request.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> UA100
make sure it doesnt have a 3 phase motor, unless of course thats what
you want.
dickm
On 08 Jan 2004 02:39:19 GMT, [email protected] (GBsCards) wrote:
>I've been looking for a Uni for awhile now and one has popped up that sounds
>really good. I'm going to look at it Saturday. It sounds like its a great
>saw, except the price is quite a bit lower than what I was expecting to hear.
>The guy wants 375 and according to a mutual friend who has seen it (but doesn't
>really know saws) it doesn't look trashed. Motor and bearingds supposedly work
>fine. It sounds like its an older model which is actually what I wanted. I
>thought I knew a little about Uni's, but am I missing something? Is there a
>model year or something I should avoid?
>
>PS- No, you can't see it before me for informative purposes!!
GBsCards wrote:
>I've been looking for a Uni for awhile now and one has popped up that sounds
>really good. I'm going to look at it Saturday. It sounds like its a great
>saw, except the price is quite a bit lower than what I was expecting to hear.
>The guy wants 375 and according to a mutual friend who has seen it (but doesn't
>really know saws) it doesn't look trashed.
As an aside, I have seen Unisaws sell for in the two hunnert
and less range. They've usually needed a new fence ($300)
and at times a new motor ($300) and in the end they end up
costing about what you'd expect to pay for a good used one.
In fact, after spending the money, they are a good used one.
>Motor and bearings supposedly work fine.
Even if they don't, at that price you can always tell your
Mom that you are buying on the installment plan.
>It sounds like its an older model which is actually what I wanted. I
>thought I knew a little about Uni's, but am I missing something? Is there a
>model year or something I should avoid?
Typically anything built by Rockwell International is
considered dicey. You'll know these because they will have
the RI Peace Sign logo and the plinth (the base/part that
sits on the ground) will be sheet metal. These will have
been made anywhere between 1974ish and 1984. After 1984
you're into the Penthair era and on your own. I try and not
pay attention to the newer machines.
Anyway, it's way too early for me to be telling you
everything I know so ping me on the back channel and I'll
point you to a resource or three that should get you up to
snuff in a short period of time.
>PS- No, you can't see it before me for informative purposes!!
But you will be sending a picture when you get it, OK?
UA100
Jon Endres wrote:
>You can *collect* water with a spare $10 goose-egg cover.
Now this sounds interesting. Is there a particular vintage
of water I should be looking for? Is the water from one
region more highly sought after than another region? I have
some water and I was wondering what it was worth? I can
supply pictures of the water upon request.
Thanks in advance.
UA100
Lawrence A. Ramsey wrote:
>I suspect that what they are referring to is a 2 hp motor version that
>was on a Unisaw.
Nope. He was referring to the one horse. If memory serves
me the two horse was only available for a short period of
time. I'm thinking in the middle/late 60's. I'd have to
dig to find out which I won't.
>If trunnions and such are same as 3 hp, I would buy
>it QUICKLY and pick up a 3 hp motor when I could.
What's wrong with leaving well enough alone? My 3/4 horse
is suiting me just fine. But then again, it's
repulsion/induction. :-)
sigh...
UA100
"Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jon Endres wrote:
> >You can *collect* water with a spare $10 goose-egg cover.
>
> Now this sounds interesting. Is there a particular vintage
> of water I should be looking for? Is the water from one
> region more highly sought after than another region? I have
> some water and I was wondering what it was worth? I can
> supply pictures of the water upon request.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> UA100
Water that is not collected from yellow snow is preferred.
J
I suspect that what they are referring to is a 2 hp motor version that
was on a Unisaw. If trunnions and such are same as 3 hp, I would buy
it QUICKLY and pick up a 3 hp motor when I could.
On Thu, 08 Jan 2004 23:51:12 GMT, Unisaw A100 <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Slowhand wrote:
>>Hey UA, on another note, how do the older (50's model delta uni's)1 horse
>>motors stack up against the new 3 horse models?
>
>
>The only other Unisaws I've ever run are the machines at
>work and they are horse anna half three phase so I really
>can't answer this.
>
>Oh! I do know one plus on the new machines. The blow
>molded motor covers can be used to divert rain water from
>your down spout. Can't do that with my cast iron goose egg
>cover.
>
>UA100
On Thu, 08 Jan 2004 02:39:19 +0000, GBsCards wrote:
> I've been looking for a Uni for awhile now and one has popped up that sounds
> really good. I'm going to look at it Saturday. It sounds like its a great
> saw, except the price is quite a bit lower than what I was expecting to hear.
> The guy wants 375 and according to a mutual friend who has seen it (but doesn't
> really know saws) it doesn't look trashed. Motor and bearingds supposedly work
> fine. It sounds like its an older model which is actually what I wanted. I
> thought I knew a little about Uni's, but am I missing something? Is there a
> model year or something I should avoid?
>
> PS- No, you can't see it before me for informative purposes!!
I bet there are many more bad woodworkers than Unisaws. I have a Unisaw.
It is sweet.
If you can pick one up at a fair price, go for it. If it needs some
tweaking or minor repair, you will still end up with a very good saw.
On Fri, 09 Jan 2004 09:13:50 -0800, Slowhand wrote:
>
> "Lawrence A. Ramsey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I suspect that what they are referring to is a 2 hp motor version that
>> was on a Unisaw. If trunnions and such are same as 3 hp, I would buy
>> it QUICKLY and pick up a 3 hp motor when I could.
>
> Actually no. I have never ran a newer unisaw with the 3 horse motor. I'm
> just curious if there is much power difference.
> SH
There is not quite as much difference as one would think. The older
motors (I believe rated at 1 1/2 horse) are 1725 RPM motors, the newer
ones are 3450. I am not sure how the blade speed is affected but I know
in our school shop (ages ago) we ripped all the 2x12's from the football
field bleachers down to 2x4's for projects and did not have any problem
with the old unisaw. It sure did not bog down much but would occasionally
kick a breaker off (no magnetic start).
I currently have an older unisaw that I put a 3 horse motor on. It is not
too hard if you are good with a welder to fabricate a mount that changes
the unisaw pin mount to a universal plate mount. It makes it easier and
cheaper to find motors. I also had to change the pulley to accomodate the
change in motor RPM.
"Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Slowhand wrote:
> >Hey UA, on another note, how do the older (50's model delta uni's)1 horse
> >motors stack up against the new 3 horse models?
>
>
> The only other Unisaws I've ever run are the machines at
> work and they are horse anna half three phase so I really
> can't answer this.
>
> Oh! I do know one plus on the new machines. The blow
> molded motor covers can be used to divert rain water from
> your down spout. Can't do that with my cast iron goose egg
> cover.
>
> UA100
You can *collect* water with a spare $10 goose-egg cover.
Not that I've done this, of course.
Jon E
Slowhand wrote:
>Hey UA, on another note, how do the older (50's model delta uni's)1 horse
>motors stack up against the new 3 horse models?
The only other Unisaws I've ever run are the machines at
work and they are horse anna half three phase so I really
can't answer this.
Oh! I do know one plus on the new machines. The blow
molded motor covers can be used to divert rain water from
your down spout. Can't do that with my cast iron goose egg
cover.
UA100
"Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Hey UA, on another note, how do the older (50's model delta uni's)1 horse
motors stack up against the new 3 horse models?
SH
"Lawrence A. Ramsey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I suspect that what they are referring to is a 2 hp motor version that
> was on a Unisaw. If trunnions and such are same as 3 hp, I would buy
> it QUICKLY and pick up a 3 hp motor when I could.
Actually no. I have never ran a newer unisaw with the 3 horse motor. I'm
just curious if there is much power difference.
SH
I would answer your question by saying Delta has never built a bad Unisaw.
I am sure there are some "bad Unisaws" out there now.
Marv
"GBsCards" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've been looking for a Uni for awhile now and one has popped up that
sounds
> really good. I'm going to look at it Saturday. It sounds like its a
great
> saw, except the price is quite a bit lower than what I was expecting to
hear.
> The guy wants 375 and according to a mutual friend who has seen it (but
doesn't
> really know saws) it doesn't look trashed. Motor and bearingds supposedly
work
> fine. It sounds like its an older model which is actually what I wanted.
I
> thought I knew a little about Uni's, but am I missing something? Is there
a
> model year or something I should avoid?
>
> PS- No, you can't see it before me for informative purposes!!