I'm having trouble finding a 10" table saw blade that will crosscut oak plywood
without tearing up the vaneer along the cut. I used a Freud 80-tooth
alternating bevel blade (TK806) that's specifically made for for this purpose,
but it still tore up the vaneer somewhat. It's a brand spanking new blade, so I
know it's not dull. This blade cost me about $50. Someone suggested the Freud
F810 10" 80-Tooth Hyper-Finish Precision Crosscut Blade, which sells for about
$100.
Is there actually that much of a difference between these two blades to justify
such a huge price difference? If anyone can comment on either of the blades I
mentioned or if you know of any blade that would suit my needs I'd appreciate
the input. Thanks.
There are some "standard" responses which do not involve purchasing a new
blade.
First, consider scoring the line of cut with your utility knife. Make sure
it's on the "good" side of the cut.
Make a scoring cut with the blade at 1/16 depth prior to the through cut.
Tape the line of cut so it doesn't split too badly.
These assume you are speaking of tearing on the insert side (as the teeth
exit below).
If you're getting pickup on top, your problem could be blade non-parallel to
miter groove, miter gage not at 90, or creep against the miter gage.
Practice these techniques on luan, which is cheaper and even more prone to
splinter than oak.
Buying a new blade will give you pride of purchase, and might make a better
line, but will take money.
"NoNameAtAll" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm having trouble finding a 10" table saw blade that will crosscut oak
plywood
> without tearing up the vaneer along the cut. I used a Freud 80-tooth
> alternating bevel blade (TK806) that's specifically made for for this
purpose,
> but it still tore up the vaneer somewhat. It's a brand spanking new blade,
so I
> know it's not dull. This blade cost me about $50. Someone suggested the
Freud
> F810 10" 80-Tooth Hyper-Finish Precision Crosscut Blade, which sells for
about
> $100.
>
> Is there actually that much of a difference between these two blades to
justify
> such a huge price difference? If anyone can comment on either of the
blades I
> mentioned or if you know of any blade that would suit my needs I'd
appreciate
> the input. Thanks.
You were cutting good side down and with a zero clearance insert,
right??
John
On 02 Feb 2004 03:57:33 GMT, [email protected] (NoNameAtAll)
wrote:
>I'm having trouble finding a 10" table saw blade that will crosscut oak plywood
>without tearing up the vaneer along the cut. I used a Freud 80-tooth
>alternating bevel blade (TK806) that's specifically made for for this purpose,
>but it still tore up the vaneer somewhat. It's a brand spanking new blade, so I
>know it's not dull. This blade cost me about $50. Someone suggested the Freud
>F810 10" 80-Tooth Hyper-Finish Precision Crosscut Blade, which sells for about
>$100.
>
>Is there actually that much of a difference between these two blades to justify
>such a huge price difference? If anyone can comment on either of the blades I
>mentioned or if you know of any blade that would suit my needs I'd appreciate
>the input. Thanks.
On Mon, 2 Feb 2004 07:00:42 -0500, "George"
<[email protected]> wrote:
George posted the standard solutions...
Your 80 tooth blade should be fine....most chipping occurs as the
blade exits the cut...so try to have the good surface pointing up when
you make the cut....
Of Georges methods I like
>Make a scoring cut with the blade at 1/16 depth prior to the through cut.
>
This works extremely welll BUT requires 2 passes thru the saw
and takes time raising and lowering the blade...
>Tape the line of cut so it doesn't split too badly.
This is fast and masking tape is CHEAP....
>If you're getting pickup on top, your problem could be blade non-parallel to
>miter groove, miter gage not at 90, or creep against the miter gage.
If he is getting tear out on top (as the blade enters the cut)...you
are right OR he has the blade set way way to low...
>
ON "GOOD" and expensive veneer I will use tape 199 percent of the
time... one hundred and ninty percent equals all the time btw
Bob Griffiths
you'll get some tearout with plywood, a zero clearance insert will help a
lot, but cutting across the fibers is gonna tear some with out one.
--
http://users.adelphia.net/~kyhighland
"NoNameAtAll" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm having trouble finding a 10" table saw blade that will crosscut oak
plywood
> without tearing up the vaneer along the cut. I used a Freud 80-tooth
> alternating bevel blade (TK806) that's specifically made for for this
purpose,
> but it still tore up the vaneer somewhat. It's a brand spanking new blade,
so I
> know it's not dull. This blade cost me about $50. Someone suggested the
Freud
> F810 10" 80-Tooth Hyper-Finish Precision Crosscut Blade, which sells for
about
> $100.
>
> Is there actually that much of a difference between these two blades to
justify
> such a huge price difference? If anyone can comment on either of the
blades I
> mentioned or if you know of any blade that would suit my needs I'd
appreciate
> the input. Thanks.
"Bob G." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
ON "GOOD" and expensive veneer I will use tape 199 percent of the
> time... one hundred and ninty percent equals all the time btw
A question about taping. Do you find that the tape leaves any type of grunge
on the blade after the cut? If so, do you recommend any particular types of
tape or does simple masking tape do fine?
"KYHighlander" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> you'll get some tearout with plywood, a zero clearance insert will help a
> lot, but cutting across the fibers is gonna tear some with out one.
>
> --
>
> http://users.adelphia.net/~kyhighland
>
I've found that raising my blade (80 tooth DeWalt fine crosscut) all
the way helps minimize tearout on plywood. Must be something to do
with the angle the teeth are cutting at.
Be extra carefull with all that blade showing.
Steve
On Fri, 06 Feb 2004 18:25:06 GMT, Jim Polaski <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Have you tried scoring the ply before cutting? That's a technique I've
>been told can help avoid tearing of the veneer. I think you would just
>score the cut with a 1/6th in. depth pass then flip the board, raise the
>blade and do the finish cut for the whole board.
No, you do not flip the board. You make both the scoring pass and the
final pass with the same side down. I do this all the time, it is
easy and it works great.
The down side is the place where tearout happens on a tablesaw,
as the teeth exit the wood at the front of the cut. If you're really
getting tearout on the up side, your saw blade is not parallel to the
fence and you're getting the tearout at the back of the cut as the
blade rises out of the saw. If this is your problem you need to tune
your saw, a scoring pass will not help this problem.
Tim Carver
[email protected]
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] (NoNameAtAll) wrote:
> I'm having trouble finding a 10" table saw blade that will crosscut oak
> plywood
> without tearing up the vaneer along the cut. I used a Freud 80-tooth
> alternating bevel blade (TK806) that's specifically made for for this
> purpose,
> but it still tore up the vaneer somewhat. It's a brand spanking new blade, so
> I
> know it's not dull. This blade cost me about $50. Someone suggested the Freud
> F810 10" 80-Tooth Hyper-Finish Precision Crosscut Blade, which sells for
> about
> $100.
>
> Is there actually that much of a difference between these two blades to
> justify
> such a huge price difference? If anyone can comment on either of the blades I
> mentioned or if you know of any blade that would suit my needs I'd appreciate
> the input. Thanks.
Have you tried scoring the ply before cutting? That's a technique I've
been told can help avoid tearing of the veneer. I think you would just
score the cut with a 1/6th in. depth pass then flip the board, raise the
blade and do the finish cut for the whole board.
--
Jim Polaski
"The measure of a man is what he will do
knowing he will get nothing in return."
I use my Forrest Woodworker II with oak veneer plywood and have great
results.
The blade is expensive. I think I paid $110 for it but it works great.
Rob
"NoNameAtAll" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm having trouble finding a 10" table saw blade that will crosscut oak
plywood
> without tearing up the vaneer along the cut. I used a Freud 80-tooth
> alternating bevel blade (TK806) that's specifically made for for this
purpose,
> but it still tore up the vaneer somewhat. It's a brand spanking new blade,
so I
> know it's not dull. This blade cost me about $50. Someone suggested the
Freud
> F810 10" 80-Tooth Hyper-Finish Precision Crosscut Blade, which sells for
about
> $100.
>
> Is there actually that much of a difference between these two blades to
justify
> such a huge price difference? If anyone can comment on either of the
blades I
> mentioned or if you know of any blade that would suit my needs I'd
appreciate
> the input. Thanks.
On 02 Feb 2004 03:57:33 GMT, [email protected] (NoNameAtAll)
wrote:
>I'm having trouble finding a 10" table saw blade that will crosscut oak plywood
>without tearing up the vaneer along the cut. I used a Freud 80-tooth
>alternating bevel blade (TK806) that's specifically made for for this purpose,
>but it still tore up the vaneer somewhat. It's a brand spanking new blade, so I
>know it's not dull. This blade cost me about $50. Someone suggested the Freud
>F810 10" 80-Tooth Hyper-Finish Precision Crosscut Blade, which sells for about
>$100.
>
>Is there actually that much of a difference between these two blades to justify
>such a huge price difference? If anyone can comment on either of the blades I
>mentioned or if you know of any blade that would suit my needs I'd appreciate
>the input. Thanks.
You really need to make a scoring pass if you don't want to gamble.
If your saw has good smooth height adjustment gears, it should only
take a couple of seconds to crank up from your scoring pass to nearly
full height for your final pass. The only ptoblem is that you'll have
to wave your splitter dismounted for the scoring pass. A bummer but
not a big deal if you're doing lots of them.
Better yet, for crosscuts less than 12", use a SCMS. The scoring pass
with an SCMS takes just a split second, and it's easy to do by hand
without a depth stop. Plus, you can keep a good dedicated crosscut
blade mounted, which helps too (you'll still need the scoring pass for
veneers, though).
Tim Carver
[email protected]