Greetings,
When I change the blade on my TS I have always just snugged the nut
and let the inertia of the blade tighten it up when I start the saw.
I recently got a new 3HP saw and I have noticed some slipping. Lately
I have been wedging a piece of wood behind the blade and tighten it
firmly with the wrench. It is hard to do because the teeth don't bite
into the wood and there isn't a good place to use for leverage.
How do you guys do it ?
Thanks,
Charlie in Kentucky
Charlie Campney wrote:
>
> Greetings,
>
> When I change the blade on my TS I have always just snugged the nut
> and let the inertia of the blade tighten it up when I start the saw.
> I recently got a new 3HP saw and I have noticed some slipping. Lately
> I have been wedging a piece of wood behind the blade and tighten it
> firmly with the wrench. It is hard to do because the teeth don't bite
> into the wood and there isn't a good place to use for leverage.
> How do you guys do it ?
>
> Thanks,
> Charlie in Kentucky
I've got a Robland X31 combination machine and the arbor shaft
has a hole in it, the saw table has a hole in it that lines up
with the hole in the shaft. Even comes with a a rounded end
steel rod to fit the hole in the arbor. Why American manufacturers
don't include the standard features of Euro machines is a real
mystery. An easily removable and reinstallable riving knife should
be standard equiptment. (I'll skip the American auto manufacturers
rant except to say we'd still
have carburators
distributors,
generators
steering wheels that'd go through you on impact
tons of chrome
ladder frames
leaf springs
all drum brakes
and rain gutters
BUT WE'D HAVE FINS, BIG SWOOPY FINS AND BIGGGG V-8s!)
Wonder what Veritas could come up with if they designed a table
saw - or a car?
charlie belden
In rec.woodworking
[email protected] (Charlie Campney) wrote:
>Greetings,
>
>When I change the blade on my TS I have always just snugged the nut
>and let the inertia of the blade tighten it up when I start the saw.
>I recently got a new 3HP saw and I have noticed some slipping. Lately
>I have been wedging a piece of wood behind the blade and tighten it
>firmly with the wrench. It is hard to do because the teeth don't bite
>into the wood and there isn't a good place to use for leverage.
>How do you guys do it ?
Same way you do. I sure wouldn't want to try and grip the blade with
anything. Perhaps you could hold it from the pulley on the motor somehow?
"Steven Bliss" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I use the orange blade gripper thing (can't remember what it's called)
from
> the borg. Works good once you get the hang of it.
Its the Blade-Loc. Ive got one and its a great, inexpensive item for the
tablesaw.
http://tinyurl.com/yqw4h
--
Regards,
Dean Bielanowski
Editor,
Online Tool Reviews
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
------------------------------------------------------------
Latest 5 Reviews:
- Workshop Essentials Under $30
- Festool PS 300 Jigsaws
- Delta Universal Tenoning Jig
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------------------------------------------------------------
[email protected] (Charlie Campney) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Greetings,
>
> When I change the blade on my TS I have always just snugged the nut
> and let the inertia of the blade tighten it up when I start the saw.
> I recently got a new 3HP saw and I have noticed some slipping. Lately
> I have been wedging a piece of wood behind the blade and tighten it
> firmly with the wrench. It is hard to do because the teeth don't bite
> into the wood and there isn't a good place to use for leverage.
> How do you guys do it ?
>
> Thanks,
> Charlie in Kentucky
I recently bought Kelly Mehler's table saw video. He says you don't
need to tighten the nut much at all. He says that the way the nut is
threaded it tightens on its own. I bought a device called a Bladeloc
(I think). It holds it securely enough.
Dick Durbin
late of Sunfish, Kentucky
I get my wife to do it, she's real good with pickle jars too. ;-)
KY in London, KY
--
http://users.adelphia.net/~kyhighland
"Charlie Campney" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings,
>
> When I change the blade on my TS I have always just snugged the nut
> and let the inertia of the blade tighten it up when I start the saw.
> I recently got a new 3HP saw and I have noticed some slipping. Lately
> I have been wedging a piece of wood behind the blade and tighten it
> firmly with the wrench. It is hard to do because the teeth don't bite
> into the wood and there isn't a good place to use for leverage.
> How do you guys do it ?
>
> Thanks,
> Charlie in Kentucky
I use the orange blade gripper thing (can't remember what it's called) from
the borg. Works good once you get the hang of it.
"Charlie Campney" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings,
>
> When I change the blade on my TS I have always just snugged the nut
> and let the inertia of the blade tighten it up when I start the saw.
> I recently got a new 3HP saw and I have noticed some slipping. Lately
> I have been wedging a piece of wood behind the blade and tighten it
> firmly with the wrench. It is hard to do because the teeth don't bite
> into the wood and there isn't a good place to use for leverage.
> How do you guys do it ?
>
> Thanks,
> Charlie in Kentucky
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] (Charlie Campney) wrote:
>Greetings,
>
>When I change the blade on my TS I have always just snugged the nut
>and let the inertia of the blade tighten it up when I start the saw.
>I recently got a new 3HP saw and I have noticed some slipping. Lately
>I have been wedging a piece of wood behind the blade and tighten it
>firmly with the wrench. It is hard to do because the teeth don't bite
>into the wood and there isn't a good place to use for leverage.
>How do you guys do it ?
>
Two wrenches: one on the arbor nut, and one on the flats of the arbor.
--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
"kb8qlr" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
<snip>
> Also, vise grip pliers on the blade instead of the block of wood.
>
> Happy New Year
> Joe
Vicegrip?!!
waitress..check please...
lmao
Myx
I grab the blade with a heavy leather glove on my left hand and tighten with
my right. I do the job from the out feed side..
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Charlie Campney" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings,
>
> When I change the blade on my TS I have always just snugged the nut
> and let the inertia of the blade tighten it up when I start the saw.
> I recently got a new 3HP saw and I have noticed some slipping. Lately
> I have been wedging a piece of wood behind the blade and tighten it
> firmly with the wrench. It is hard to do because the teeth don't bite
> into the wood and there isn't a good place to use for leverage.
> How do you guys do it ?
>
> Thanks,
> Charlie in Kentucky
In article <[email protected]>, "kb8qlr" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Two wrenches: one on the arbor nut, and one on the flats of the arbor.
>
>Ditto.
>Also, vise grip pliers on the blade instead of the block of wood.
>
That's not even a decent joke. Some newbie might think you were serious, and
actually try that.
Idiot.
--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
I just put a good leather glove on my left hand.
Regards
"Bruce" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In rec.woodworking
> [email protected] (Charlie Campney) wrote:
>
> >Greetings,
> >
> >When I change the blade on my TS I have always just snugged the nut
> >and let the inertia of the blade tighten it up when I start the saw.
> >I recently got a new 3HP saw and I have noticed some slipping. Lately
> >I have been wedging a piece of wood behind the blade and tighten it
> >firmly with the wrench. It is hard to do because the teeth don't bite
> >into the wood and there isn't a good place to use for leverage.
> >How do you guys do it ?
>
> Same way you do. I sure wouldn't want to try and grip the blade with
> anything. Perhaps you could hold it from the pulley on the motor somehow?
"Myxylplyk" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "kb8qlr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> <snip>
>
> > Also, vise grip pliers on the blade instead of the block of wood.
> >
> > Happy New Year
> > Joe
>
Mayday!!! more like it:)
> Vicegrip?!!
>
> waitress..check please...
>
> lmao
>
> Myx
>
>
"Charlie Campney" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings,
>
> When I change the blade on my TS I have always just snugged the nut
> and let the inertia of the blade tighten it up when I start the saw.
> I recently got a new 3HP saw and I have noticed some slipping. Lately
> I have been wedging a piece of wood behind the blade and tighten it
> firmly with the wrench. It is hard to do because the teeth don't bite
> into the wood and there isn't a good place to use for leverage.
> How do you guys do it ?
>
> Thanks,
> Charlie in Kentucky
One wrench, one size XL, mom-issued mitt (on a 3 HP Jet). Non-coated blades
btw.
For every saw I've owned, I've never had a problem crafting a piece of hard
wood that wedges between the blade teeth and the table top. You gotta use
the same piece of wood every time! Looking for a scrap in the bin will
drive you batty.
Bob
"Charlie Campney" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings,
>
> When I change the blade on my TS I have always just snugged the nut
> and let the inertia of the blade tighten it up when I start the saw.
> I recently got a new 3HP saw and I have noticed some slipping. Lately
> I have been wedging a piece of wood behind the blade and tighten it
> firmly with the wrench. It is hard to do because the teeth don't bite
> into the wood and there isn't a good place to use for leverage.
> How do you guys do it ?
>
> Thanks,
> Charlie in Kentucky
benchdog makes that one
--
http://users.adelphia.net/~kyhighland
"Steven Bliss" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I use the orange blade gripper thing (can't remember what it's called)
from
> the borg. Works good once you get the hang of it.
> "Charlie Campney" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Greetings,
> >
> > When I change the blade on my TS I have always just snugged the nut
> > and let the inertia of the blade tighten it up when I start the saw.
> > I recently got a new 3HP saw and I have noticed some slipping. Lately
> > I have been wedging a piece of wood behind the blade and tighten it
> > firmly with the wrench. It is hard to do because the teeth don't bite
> > into the wood and there isn't a good place to use for leverage.
> > How do you guys do it ?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Charlie in Kentucky
>
>
charlie b said:
> Why American manufacturers
> don't include the standard features of Euro machines is a real
> mystery. An easily removable and reinstallable riving knife should
> be standard equiptment. (I'll skip the American auto manufacturers
> rant except to say we'd still
> have carburators
> distributors,
> generators
> steering wheels that'd go through you on impact
> tons of chrome
> ladder frames
> leaf springs
> all drum brakes
> and rain gutters
> BUT WE'D HAVE FINS, BIG SWOOPY FINS AND BIGGGG V-8s!)
Hey, I have an 'American Saw' and it has a two wrench blade tightening
system. But sadly, no stock riving knife - I added one, however.
As for US cars, how about Ed Cole's baby, the Corvair (65 & later)?
4 wheel, 4 link independent suspension with coil springs, flat
horizontally opposed 6 cylinder turbocharged engine - an alternator,
really stiff unibody, split steering shaft, little to no chrome, and
no fins.
People didn't want it - Ralph Nader killed it, even though by the time
his book was published, they had redesigned it to eliminate the VW
type swing-arm suspension. While easy to blame the manufacturers,
they produce what is demanded of them - and what sells.
This explains all the wretched SUV's roaming the landscape of the USA
that are equipped with... hmmm....
Huge bulbous bodies, big V-8s, lots of chrome, rain gutters, huge
pompous grills, ladder frames, distributors (although electronic
instead of points), leaf springs, and high centers of gravity. That
is what the morons want. <g>
> Wonder what Veritas could come up with if they designed a table
> saw - or a car?
Makes the mind reel...
Greg G.
On Tue, 30 Dec 2003 22:31:35 -0800, charlie b <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Charlie Campney wrote:
snip
> Wonder what Veritas could come up with if they designed a table
> saw
Go for it, Robin.....
Charlie,
Check to see if there isn't 2 flat spots ground on the arbor flange that the
blade rests against when you install it. If it's a Jet or Delta, you should
find them. Take an open end wrench (of required size) and use that to hold
the shaft while you use the blade wrench to tighten/loose the arbor nut.
I simply ordered a blade wrench ($6) from Jet when I got my cabinet saw. You
may need to grind a standard open-end wrench to thin it down so it fits.
If it doesn't have the flat spots, make or purchase a blade lock
http://www.newwoodworker.com/bladeloc.html
Bob S.
"Charlie Campney" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings,
>
> When I change the blade on my TS I have always just snugged the nut
> and let the inertia of the blade tighten it up when I start the saw.
> I recently got a new 3HP saw and I have noticed some slipping. Lately
> I have been wedging a piece of wood behind the blade and tighten it
> firmly with the wrench. It is hard to do because the teeth don't bite
> into the wood and there isn't a good place to use for leverage.
> How do you guys do it ?
>
> Thanks,
> Charlie in Kentucky
Charlie
Have a 5hp unisaw, and so far just a bit beyond snug is all I need,
even on the stacked dado set
John
On 30 Dec 2003 14:26:05 -0800, [email protected] (Charlie Campney)
wrote:
>Greetings,
>
>When I change the blade on my TS I have always just snugged the nut
>and let the inertia of the blade tighten it up when I start the saw.
>I recently got a new 3HP saw and I have noticed some slipping. Lately
>I have been wedging a piece of wood behind the blade and tighten it
>firmly with the wrench. It is hard to do because the teeth don't bite
>into the wood and there isn't a good place to use for leverage.
>How do you guys do it ?
>
>Thanks,
>Charlie in Kentucky
[email protected] (Charlie Campney) writes:
> Greetings,
>
> When I change the blade on my TS I have always just snugged the nut
> and let the inertia of the blade tighten it up when I start the saw.
> I recently got a new 3HP saw and I have noticed some slipping. Lately
> I have been wedging a piece of wood behind the blade and tighten it
> firmly with the wrench. It is hard to do because the teeth don't bite
> into the wood and there isn't a good place to use for leverage.
> How do you guys do it ?
I just grab the blade with my right hand and tighten the nut with the
wrench held in the left hand. Since the tightening tries to rotate the
blade backwards there is no risk of cutting the fingers.
By the way: What is the typical diameter of the arbor flange? My
Metabo saw has about 7.5cm...
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
Piece of scrap wood wedged between the blade and table top. Be sure to hold
the arbor nut wrench in a position that if it slips you don't rake your hand
across all of the blade teeth. I torque the nut down "pretty tight", but I
know that's not a very accurate value for you to compare with.
--
Larry C in Auburn, WA
"Charlie Campney" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings,
>
> When I change the blade on my TS I have always just snugged the nut
> and let the inertia of the blade tighten it up when I start the saw.
> I recently got a new 3HP saw and I have noticed some slipping. Lately
> I have been wedging a piece of wood behind the blade and tighten it
> firmly with the wrench. It is hard to do because the teeth don't bite
> into the wood and there isn't a good place to use for leverage.
> How do you guys do it ?
>
> Thanks,
> Charlie in Kentucky
"Charlie Campney" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings,
>
> When I change the blade on my TS I have always just snugged the nut
> and let the inertia of the blade tighten it up when I start the saw.
> I recently got a new 3HP saw and I have noticed some slipping. Lately
> I have been wedging a piece of wood behind the blade and tighten it
> firmly with the wrench. It is hard to do because the teeth don't bite
> into the wood and there isn't a good place to use for leverage.
> How do you guys do it ?
>
> Thanks,
> Charlie in Kentucky
I've found that when you purchase a TS there are usually a couple wrenches
provided with them. One to remove the blade nut and one to hold the arbor,
usually about and eighth of an inch thick. Toss the one for the blade nut,
and keep the arbor wrench.
Now in your case look around where you would have put those cheap looking
wrenches you got with all your powertools, one of them is probably the arbor
wrench.
Dave