cm wrote:
> Chris,
>
> I had one of the first ones when they came out with that model. It is an
> awesome lathe for the money. I worked it to its full potential and never had
> any problems.
>
> cm
>
> www.vintagetrailersforsale.com
>
>
> "ChrisGW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>I was thinking about trying my hand at turning. Mostly small things like
>>pens, bowls, etc... I was looking at the Jet 708351B JML-1014, which if I
>>want to do some longer items I could get the bed extention also.
>>
>>Does anyon here have one or used one and what is your opinion of it.
>>
>>Thanks
>>Chris
>>
>>
>
>
Did you have the bed extension for it and did it work ok?
Chris
George wrote:
> How deep are your pockets?=A0=A0The=A0real=A0devil=A0is=A0in=A0the=A0=
details=A0-=A0like=A0the
> devices you'll want to get the things you want out of the lathe.=A0=A0=
Without
> knowing precisely what the price will be, it's tough to believe that =
you'll
> do better than
> http://www.teknatool.com/products/Lathes/1624/Nova%20_1624.htm=A0=A0w=
hich=A0is
> supposed to run a grand.
On the other end of the price range is the Rikon mini. It requires bel=
t
changing to change speeds, but it'll do a 12" bowl compared to a 10" fo=
r the
Jet and is a little lower priced. But the electronic variable speed Je=
t is
better for turning pens, at least that's what the pen turners tell me.
--=20
It's turtles, all the way down
Wed, Nov 15, 2006, 6:01pm [email protected] (ChrisGW) doth
sayeth:
I was thinking about trying my hand at turning. Mostly small things like
pens, bowls, etc.. <snip>
Yep, I thought that too when I got a mini-lathe, many years ago.
And 5 min after I got it I wished I'd gotten a big lathe instead. You
can make small stuff on a big lathe, but you can't make big stuff on a
small lathe.
JOAT
Democratic justice. One man, one rock.
ChrisGW wrote:
>
> I was thinking about trying my hand at turning. Mostly small things like pens,
> bowls, etc... I was looking at the Jet 708351B JML-1014, which if I want to do
> some longer items I could get the bed extention also.
>
> Does anyon here have one or used one and what is your opinion of it.
>
> Thanks
> Chris
>
For most woodworking power tools I go with Buy Once, Cry Once - get
the best you can afford and then some. But when it came to moving up
from the little UniMat lathe I got when I was making jewelry I got
the
JET mini/midi - but with the variable speed. (Should've gone with VS
when I got my drill press) and spent the savings on some turning
tools
- full sized ones - AND a decent chuck - a SuperNova2 - with extra
jaw sets.
Have done everything from hair sticks and magic wands, a ton of pegs
and pulls, small to medium sized weed pots, a bunch of tops, "turned
lidded boxes", almost 10" diameter by 2-5" tall plates and bowls, a
trembleur or two, all kinds of finials and a bunch of weird stuff.
(if you want to wade through pics of some of them then go here)
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/Turning/Turning1.html
(have pics of a lot more stuff I've turned but have hit the space
limit for my web site)
To date I seldom bog this puppy down and the only bitch I've got is
that the banjo (the part that clamps on the lathe beg and holds the
tool rest) gets in the way when turning at max diameter or reduces
you max diameter capabilities if you want to move it to either end
of the piece you're turning.
I can't stress enough how important the variable speed is, When
roughing to round, being able to take the speed up to the point
things start to wobble and bounce, then backing it off slowly 'til
it stops is so much more convenient than playing trial and error
with belts and pulleys. I can turn at the best speed for the cut
and my comfort level and change speeds at the turn of a knob.
The JET VS mini/midi is a great first, and perhaps, last lathe.
Now realize that the lathe is just part of the cost of turning
stuff - add a set of gouges and chisels - $100 - $1000, a chuck
and several jaw sets - $200-$300, drive centers and tail centers
- $100-$200, a few special tool rests - $50-$100 AND don't
forget some way to keep your tools SHARP!- add another $250-
$400. Then there's the space requirements for a lathe - and
a bench/base for it. And as chisels and gouges proliferate you';;
need a place to put them, . . .
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/CBlatheBench/CBlatheBench9.html
(BTW - don't put the lathe up agains the wall. There are times
when you need to work from the "back")
The lathe price is just the tip of the iceburg - or rather the top of
a very slippery slope.
charlie b
George wrote:
>
> Can't tell you how _unimportant_ it is to speed up the lathe. Can be
> important to get it slow enough to keep it from dancing, but since you can
> cut at any speed, and cut at various when working the center of a faceplate
> piece versus the edge, it's far down on the priority list. People fiddle
> with the speed because they can, not because it gives a better cut. it's
> the edge that does that.
Let's take a couple of examples to look at
EXAMPLE 1:
You've got a piece of wood you've bandsawn to approximately
rectangular.
You set it up between centers, approximating the center points on the
two
ends. You want to get it round. But the two center points you
selected
are off - and in opposite directions As a result, there are areas
where
you're turning "in the shadow" - cutting, then the edge in the air,
cutting,
then the edge in the air, etc., etc.. Now add a difference in
density within
the stock which causes it to wobble as it spins.
When cutting "in the shadow" higher rpms reduce the "bump" because
the edge doesn't have time to move into the gap between contacts with
the wood.
So if you dial up the rpms 'til the piece starts things to wobbling,
then
back down 'til the wobble stops you'll be working at the highest rpm
that doesn't wobble AND cut with the minimum bumps.
EXAMPLE 2:
You've chainsawn a 12" diameter log about in half and then cut pieces
about "square", the bark still on the outside. So you've got a flat
face on the inside / pith side of each piece and about parallel
ends.
You bandsaw a flat on the bark side about parallel to the pith side's
flat surface. You layout a bit under a 10" diameter circle on the
pith
side and, with the bark side flat down on the bandsaw table, you
bandsaw
close to the line. You then attach a face plate ABOUT where you think
the center of the piece is. Then you mount things on the lathe, set
the tool rest and hand turn the piece to check the clearance.
Now what speed are YOU going to start with - the one you'll use
to create the shape - OR - a slow speed, perhaps the slowest
speed your lathe will go? If the speed doesn't cause unacceptable
vibration, do you do rough to round and do the rest of the shaping
at that speed or do you change pulleys to a higher speed once the
piece is round and not causing unacceptable vibration?
In neither example is the rpm determining the quality of the cut
surface since initially you're only cutting some of the surface -
that area farthest from the centerline. Until you get all the
surface the equidistant from centerline you're cutting wood, then
air, then wood, . . .
> As to longer rests, not really an important thing anyway. When you start a
> piece, you're normally cutting center to rim to make the outside, so all you
> really require is a rest equal to the diagonal of the piece as you cut it.
If you're using a bowl gouge that's true. If you're using a skew it
isn't - necessarily. And I was referring to the banjo - the thing
that holds the tool rest, not the tool rest.
> You'll be moving the rest closer as you progress anyway, or should, so not a
> big deal. Would be nice if JET gave you an offset versus a centered post
> though. Don't miss the centered post on the banjo of Ol' Blue at all.
That's why I've got six different tool rests. No one of them does
it all, all the time.
Don't mean to get in a spitting match but sometimes statements
based on a specific assumption about what's being turned with
what tool that don't note the specifics can confuse the hell out
of a newbie - and remember the original question was asked by
a newbie, not that much newer to turning than this semi-newbie.
charlie b
On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 18:01:02 -0500, ChrisGW <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I was thinking about trying my hand at turning. Mostly small things like pens,
>bowls, etc... I was looking at the Jet 708351B JML-1014, which if I want to do
>some longer items I could get the bed extention also.
>
>Does anyon here have one or used one and what is your opinion of it.
I have a Jet Mini. It's around six or seven years old, so not the
variable speed, and not the one that an extension will fit onto. I
tell you all of that just for perspective.
In my opinion you cannot go wrong buying a Jet Mini. I have many
acquaintances that hang on to their Mini even after they've moved up
to lathes costing many thousands of dollars. I have a Delta 12" lathe,
now, and I have no plans nor desire to sell the Jet.
By the way, one of the nice things about the Jet is it has big toy
fittings--that is the spindle thread is 1"-8 (some of the bigger big
lathes have a 1¼"-8, however), and the taper in the spindle and
tailstock is #2 MT. Consequently, all of your accessories such as face
plates, chucks, and various centers (drive and tail, live and dead)
will likely fit on your new lathe that you eventually will get to
supplement the Jet. It should go without saying that the tools will,
too.
If you ask this same question over on rec.crafts.woodturning, you can
get the opinions of quite a few very accomplished turners, and I'll
wager their sentiment will be much like what I've given you.
Good luck.
--
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997
email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.
when starting out it is best to start is a good learner lathe.
The jet mini fits into this category.
You will spend many times the cost of the jet on various tools. My wife
got me a really cheap griz lathe. I used it as a learner lathe for a
year and a half before upgrading afterwhich I sold the griz. Most don't
sell their jet mini's and all the secondary tools are still usable with
my bigger lathe.
ChrisGW wrote:
> I was thinking about trying my hand at turning. Mostly small things like
> pens, bowls, etc... I was looking at the Jet 708351B JML-1014, which if
> I want to do some longer items I could get the bed extention also.
>
> Does anyon here have one or used one and what is your opinion of it.
>
> Thanks
> Chris
>
>
"charlie b" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I can't stress enough how important the variable speed is, When
> roughing to round, being able to take the speed up to the point
> things start to wobble and bounce, then backing it off slowly 'til
> it stops is so much more convenient than playing trial and error
> with belts and pulleys. I can turn at the best speed for the cut
> and my comfort level and change speeds at the turn of a knob.
>
Can't tell you how _unimportant_ it is to speed up the lathe. Can be
important to get it slow enough to keep it from dancing, but since you can
cut at any speed, and cut at various when working the center of a faceplate
piece versus the edge, it's far down on the priority list. People fiddle
with the speed because they can, not because it gives a better cut. it's
the edge that does that.
As to longer rests, not really an important thing anyway. When you start a
piece, you're normally cutting center to rim to make the outside, so all you
really require is a rest equal to the diagonal of the piece as you cut it.
You'll be moving the rest closer as you progress anyway, or should, so not a
big deal. Would be nice if JET gave you an offset versus a centered post
though. Don't miss the centered post on the banjo of Ol' Blue at all.
"Andrew Barss" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> George <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> : "charlie b" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> : news:[email protected]...
> :> I can't stress enough how important the variable speed is, When
> :> roughing to round, being able to take the speed up to the point
> :> things start to wobble and bounce, then backing it off slowly 'til
> :> it stops is so much more convenient than playing trial and error
> :> with belts and pulleys. I can turn at the best speed for the cut
> :> and my comfort level and change speeds at the turn of a knob.
> :>
>
> : Can't tell you how _unimportant_ it is to speed up the lathe. Can be
> : important to get it slow enough to keep it from dancing, but since you
> can
> : cut at any speed
>
> Ever try to turn a pen at 200 RPM? it can be done, I guess, but
> you'll get a much finer finish if you turn it at a much higher
> speed.
>
Ever look at what a sharp chisel can do? Even with the wood motionless?
"charlie b" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> George wrote:
>>
>> Can't tell you how _unimportant_ it is to speed up the lathe. Can be
>> important to get it slow enough to keep it from dancing, but since you
>> can
>> cut at any speed, and cut at various when working the center of a
>> faceplate
>> piece versus the edge, it's far down on the priority list. People fiddle
>> with the speed because they can, not because it gives a better cut. it's
>> the edge that does that.
>
> Let's take a couple of examples to look at
> EXAMPLE 1:
> You've got a piece of wood you've bandsawn to approximately
> rectangular.
> You set it up between centers, approximating the center points on the
> two
> ends. You want to get it round. But the two center points you
> selected
> are off - and in opposite directions As a result, there are areas
> where
> you're turning "in the shadow" - cutting, then the edge in the air,
> cutting,
> then the edge in the air, etc., etc.. Now add a difference in
> density within
> the stock which causes it to wobble as it spins.
>
> When cutting "in the shadow" higher rpms reduce the "bump" because
> the edge doesn't have time to move into the gap between contacts with
> the wood.
>
> So if you dial up the rpms 'til the piece starts things to wobbling,
> then
> back down 'til the wobble stops you'll be working at the highest rpm
> that doesn't wobble AND cut with the minimum bumps.
>
If you want the best turning, you'll be firmly referenced to the toolrest.
Keeping things steady there is what allows them to be round. Doesn't even
have to be you holding the tool, really. 680 on squares from 5 to 15
diagonal works fine.
> EXAMPLE 2:
> You've chainsawn a 12" diameter log about in half and then cut pieces
> about "square", the bark still on the outside. So you've got a flat
> face on the inside / pith side of each piece and about parallel
> ends.
> You bandsaw a flat on the bark side about parallel to the pith side's
> flat surface. You layout a bit under a 10" diameter circle on the
> pith
> side and, with the bark side flat down on the bandsaw table, you
> bandsaw
> close to the line. You then attach a face plate ABOUT where you think
> the center of the piece is. Then you mount things on the lathe, set
> the tool rest and hand turn the piece to check the clearance.
>
> Now what speed are YOU going to start with - the one you'll use
> to create the shape - OR - a slow speed, perhaps the slowest
> speed your lathe will go? If the speed doesn't cause unacceptable
> vibration, do you do rough to round and do the rest of the shaping
> at that speed or do you change pulleys to a higher speed once the
> piece is round and not causing unacceptable vibration?
>
> In neither example is the rpm determining the quality of the cut
> surface since initially you're only cutting some of the surface -
> that area farthest from the centerline. Until you get all the
> surface the equidistant from centerline you're cutting wood, then
> air, then wood, . . .
>
I use a pin chuck. Bore a 1" hole in where I want the center to be and draw
the tailstock up tight. Makes for a nice stable relationship between the
piece, the tool and the rest. Another non-player.
>> As to longer rests, not really an important thing anyway. When you start
>> a
>> piece, you're normally cutting center to rim to make the outside, so all
>> you
>> really require is a rest equal to the diagonal of the piece as you cut
>> it.
>
> If you're using a bowl gouge that's true. If you're using a skew it
> isn't - necessarily. And I was referring to the banjo - the thing
> that holds the tool rest, not the tool rest.
>
Well, I don't rest my roughing gouge on the banjo. It's too low. The rest
should allow me to traverse a sufficient diadonal to reduce in diameter so I
can move the whole into the space I've created underneath.
>> You'll be moving the rest closer as you progress anyway, or should, so
>> not a
>> big deal. Would be nice if JET gave you an offset versus a centered post
>> though. Don't miss the centered post on the banjo of Ol' Blue at all.
>
> That's why I've got six different tool rests. No one of them does
> it all, all the time.
>
I've got three myself. The one that came with, a shorter one for stuff
that's short, and a curved one for trimming inside. Don't really need the
third, but it's great for tool control on a continuous peel, where I might
have to move my rest a couple times.
> Don't mean to get in a spitting match but sometimes statements
> based on a specific assumption about what's being turned with
> what tool that don't note the specifics can confuse the hell out
> of a newbie - and remember the original question was asked by
> a newbie, not that much newer to turning than this semi-newbie.
>
> charlie b
Then listen to the voice of experience. You can't turn too slow - no motion
is called carving, though. You can turn too fast, and that's dangerous.
What makes you a turner is the shavings you make, and they're the same at
any speed, as long as you can maintain control.
"ChrisGW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> cm wrote:
>
>> Chris,
>>
>> I had one of the first ones when they came out with that model. It is an
>> awesome lathe for the money. I worked it to its full potential and never
>> had any problems.
>>
>> cm
>>
>> www.vintagetrailersforsale.com
>>
>>
>> "ChrisGW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>I was thinking about trying my hand at turning. Mostly small things like
>>>pens, bowls, etc... I was looking at the Jet 708351B JML-1014, which if I
>>>want to do some longer items I could get the bed extention also.
>>>
>>>Does anyon here have one or used one and what is your opinion of it.
>>>
>>>Thanks
>>>Chris
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
> Did you have the bed extension for it and did it work ok?
You might want to also ask this question on rec.crafts.woodturning. You'll
find a lot more turning-specific experience there. Consensus though is that
the Jet is the best deal on the market in a lathe of that size. Personally
I've got a Delta midi--it does everything I ask of it and the Jet is
supposed to be better, so I'd say go for it.
>
> Chris
>
>
George <[email protected]> wrote:
: "charlie b" <[email protected]> wrote in message
: news:[email protected]...
:> I can't stress enough how important the variable speed is, When
:> roughing to round, being able to take the speed up to the point
:> things start to wobble and bounce, then backing it off slowly 'til
:> it stops is so much more convenient than playing trial and error
:> with belts and pulleys. I can turn at the best speed for the cut
:> and my comfort level and change speeds at the turn of a knob.
:>
: Can't tell you how _unimportant_ it is to speed up the lathe. Can be
: important to get it slow enough to keep it from dancing, but since you can
: cut at any speed
Ever try to turn a pen at 200 RPM? it can be done, I guess, but
you'll get a much finer finish if you turn it at a much higher
speed.
-- Andy Barss
On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 20:49:18 -0500, [email protected] (J T)
wrote:
>Wed, Nov 15, 2006, 6:01pm [email protected] (ChrisGW) doth
>sayeth:
>I was thinking about trying my hand at turning. Mostly small things like
>pens, bowls, etc.. <snip>
>
> Yep, I thought that too when I got a mini-lathe, many years ago.
>And 5 min after I got it I wished I'd gotten a big lathe instead. You
>can make small stuff on a big lathe, but you can't make big stuff on a
>small lathe.
True, and it reflects my experience- but as I told the guy who is
thinking about buying my midi-lathe, you don't know if you're going to
really get into it, or just putz around every once in a while. If you
just putz, you're only out a couple hundred bucks with a midi/mini-
but if you go all out, and decide you don't care for turning, you'll
have a giant paperweight that cost a couple of grand.
Though most of the folks on this and the RCW group are really into
turning once they get started, there are plenty of others who buy big,
nice tools, and then let 'em rust in the garage under a pile of boxes.
If you get a Jet or Delta, they retain most of their resale value, so
you can always sell the little one if you upgrade.
Thu, Nov 16, 2006, 5:36am (EST-1) [email protected]
(Prometheus) doth sayeth:
<snip> If you just putz, you're only out a couple hundred bucks <snip>
there are plenty of others who buy big, nice tools, and then let 'em
rust in the garage under a pile of boxes.
If you get a Jet or Delta, they retain most of their resale value, so
you can always sell the little one if you upgrade.
I'm the type that'd rather putz with a big machine. I've got a
Atlas metal lathe,, about 29" between centers, that I bought new many
years back for $600, with accessories. Never had a place to set it up,
but should have soon. So, it's been setting, but stil with the
cosmoline or whatever on it, so it's still in the same condition as when
I got it. If I were to sell it, I could make a nice profit. But, I
never will, I scrimped a long time to get it, because I knew if I didn't
gt it, I'd never be able to afford one later.. I hope to have it going
soon. I'd had some lathe experience in high school. Then I got a mini
metal lathe - and got rid of the mini metal lathe. Then started saving
for this lathe. Sometime just owning something is good too.
JOAT
Democratic justice. One man, one rock.
On Thu, 16 Nov 2006 11:23:30 -0500, [email protected] (J T)
wrote:
>Thu, Nov 16, 2006, 5:36am (EST-1) [email protected]
>(Prometheus) doth sayeth:
><snip> If you just putz, you're only out a couple hundred bucks <snip>
>there are plenty of others who buy big, nice tools, and then let 'em
>rust in the garage under a pile of boxes.
>If you get a Jet or Delta, they retain most of their resale value, so
>you can always sell the little one if you upgrade.
>
> I'm the type that'd rather putz with a big machine. I've got a
>Atlas metal lathe,, about 29" between centers, that I bought new many
>years back for $600, with accessories. Never had a place to set it up,
>but should have soon. So, it's been setting, but stil with the
>cosmoline or whatever on it, so it's still in the same condition as when
>I got it. If I were to sell it, I could make a nice profit. But, I
>never will, I scrimped a long time to get it, because I knew if I didn't
>gt it, I'd never be able to afford one later.. I hope to have it going
>soon. I'd had some lathe experience in high school. Then I got a mini
>metal lathe - and got rid of the mini metal lathe. Then started saving
>for this lathe. Sometime just owning something is good too.
Maybe so, JOAT-
I'm the type that will stay up for 24 hours straight after a big tool
purchase to unpack, set up, and use my new toy- so I haven't really
tried just owning something that stays in the package.
Though I'd agree- putzing with a big machine is funner. But you've
got to know yor budget and level of interest before dropping all your
savings on a single tool.
Fri, Nov 17, 2006, 5:24am (EST-1) [email protected]
(Prometheus) doth sayeth:
Maybe so, JOAT-
I'm the type that will stay up for 24 hours straight after a big tool
purchase to unpack, set up, and use my new toy- so I haven't really
tried just owning something that stays in the package.
Though I'd agree- putzing with a big machine is funner. But you've got
to know yor budget and level of interest before dropping all your
savings on a single tool.
It was a time of chaos, a different lifetime, a different world.
Normally I'd agree with you. But the money was available, the
lathe became possible, I could get it, and not be able to set it up; or
I could pass. It wasn't saving, it didn't come out of the budget, It
was disposable income that became available, and I'd lusted after a
lathe for a long, long, time. I took the bird in the hand approach -
which was good, because shortly after, the price on that model lathe
pretty much doubled - I'd never have been able to get one.
It's been awhile, but I'm not in a position where I can get it set
up and finally use it. Feels good. The way t hings were, even if I'd
got it set up long ago, I'd still not have been able to use it until
now. Basically life is good.
JOAT
Democratic justice. One man, one rock.
On Sat, 18 Nov 2006 14:48:36 -0500, [email protected] (J T)
wrote:
> It was a time of chaos, a different lifetime, a different world.
>
> Normally I'd agree with you. But the money was available, the
>lathe became possible, I could get it, and not be able to set it up; or
>I could pass. It wasn't saving, it didn't come out of the budget, It
>was disposable income that became available, and I'd lusted after a
>lathe for a long, long, time. I took the bird in the hand approach -
>which was good, because shortly after, the price on that model lathe
>pretty much doubled - I'd never have been able to get one.
Well, I can understand that- If I were to suddenly come into just
enough money to get myself a good mill or engine lathe, and didn't
have room for it or enough money for the inserts, cutters, or 3-phase
power, I guess I'd get it and store it, too. You're in kind of a
special case there- I was talking more about a guy who gets something
like a contractor's saw, has the room for it, and just lets it sit
unopened for 10 years. Never been able to wrap my head around that,
but I've seen it a number of times.
> It's been awhile, but I'm not in a position where I can get it set
>up and finally use it. Feels good. The way t hings were, even if I'd
>got it set up long ago, I'd still not have been able to use it until
>now. Basically life is good.
Good deal- have fun!
Sat, Nov 18, 2006, 11:22pm (EST-1) [email protected]
(Prometheus) doth sayeth:
<snip> I was talking more about a guy who gets something like a
contractor's saw, has the room for it, and just lets it sit unopened for
10 years. Never been able to wrap my head around that, but I've seen it
a number of times. <snip>
I've heard of people doing that, but never ran across it myself. I
couldn't do it, I'd have to set it up and use it, ASAP.
JOAT
Democratic justice. One man, one rock.
On Fri, 17 Nov 2006 09:26:57 -0800, charlie b <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Now realize that the lathe is just part of the cost of turning
> stuff - add a set of gouges and chisels - $100 - $1000, a chuck
> and several jaw sets - $200-$300, drive centers and tail centers
> - $100-$200, a few special tool rests - $50-$100 AND don't
> forget some way to keep your tools SHARP!- add another $250-
> $400. Then there's the space requirements for a lathe - and
> a bench/base for it. And as chisels and gouges proliferate you';;
> need a place to put them, . . .
Of course, it can cost as much as you've got- plus a few dollars you
don't. But it's quite possible to make do with less expensive
accessories.
Let's see- over three years, I've added Delta turning tools (set of 8-
free with the Midi lathe), a Grizzly four-jaw chuck ($50), a five
piece set of carbon steel tools ($15), an outside caliper ($8), a face
shield ($15), and a drill chuck with a morse taper ($30). Already had
a grinder that is working fine ($50 ten years ago), and made the rest
(toolrests, specialty tools, etc) myself out of scrap metal.
The setup works just fine- though it is, in fact, less shiny than
others I've seen. :)
Just wanted to chime in, to let the OP and others know that it does
not have to be prohibatively expensive to start turning. The Midi
lathe ($265 on sale) and the big Delta gap-bed ($675 used) were by far
the most expensive components of the hobby. I do have to sharpen
tools slightly more often, but it's never been a problem for me- in
fact, the cheap carbon steel tools take the keenest edge.
On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 18:01:02 -0500, ChrisGW <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I was thinking about trying my hand at turning. Mostly small things like pens,
>bowls, etc... I was looking at the Jet 708351B JML-1014, which if I want to do
>some longer items I could get the bed extention also.
>
>Does anyon here have one or used one and what is your opinion of it.
>
>Thanks
>Chris
>
I'd check out Grizzly.com
"George" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Can't tell you how _unimportant_ it is to speed up the lathe. Can be
> important to get it slow enough to keep it from dancing, but since you can
> cut at any speed, and cut at various when working the center of a
faceplate
> piece versus the edge, it's far down on the priority list. People fiddle
> with the speed because they can, not because it gives a better cut. it's
> the edge that does that.
Very true, for many things. Getting the optimum speed and feed rate for a
given situation is important in an industrial situation. It can save you
minutes per part but for the home woodworker, they will never know the
difference. How sharp your tools are is much more important.
"ChrisGW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I was thinking about trying my hand at turning. Mostly small things like
>pens, bowls, etc... I was looking at the Jet 708351B JML-1014, which if I
>want to do some longer items I could get the bed extention also.
>
> Does anyon here have one or used one and what is your opinion of it.
>
How deep are your pockets? The real devil is in the details - like the
devices you'll want to get the things you want out of the lathe. Without
knowing precisely what the price will be, it's tough to believe that you'll
do better than
http://www.teknatool.com/products/Lathes/1624/Nova%20_1624.htm which is
supposed to run a grand. Since 16" is bigger than most toilet bowls, you
can fit more crap in a bowl turned on one of these. It'll do everything the
~$300 mini will do, has a small footprint for tight quarters, and you'd be
above the marketable salad bowl sizes before you outgrew it. Not a bit of
"good enough for the price point" engineering, like the other Chiwan clones.
They can be a crapshoot.
JET mini is a good one. Problem is, the motor's always sucking wood. Not
that any of the others in its class are designed differently.
Chris,
I had one of the first ones when they came out with that model. It is an
awesome lathe for the money. I worked it to its full potential and never had
any problems.
cm
www.vintagetrailersforsale.com
"ChrisGW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I was thinking about trying my hand at turning. Mostly small things like
>pens, bowls, etc... I was looking at the Jet 708351B JML-1014, which if I
>want to do some longer items I could get the bed extention also.
>
> Does anyon here have one or used one and what is your opinion of it.
>
> Thanks
> Chris
>
>
I've got Powermatic 3520B and Jet 1014 mini.
Mini plugs into any electirical outlet. The B is 220v which can be an issue.
Can even go with you if you're visiting another turner or on vacation.
As mentioned accessories are interchangeable for the most part.
AND you can get by with mini tools instead of those big$$ other tools.
Easier to make your own tools - see sites like Darrell Feltmate's.
Isn't nearly as intimidating for beginning turners you might share with,
like your wife.
I didn't go with the variable because I felt I'd be losing horsepower at low
speeds and could save money. Low speed power very important when you're
turning at its max. Otherwise VS is a helluva lot easier to work with. Keep
your tools very sharp since you can't hog out material as on a big guy.
It'll slip the belt or just stall.
It can handle its max size BUT be sure to buy a longer toolrest. When
roughing max size like for bowls the toolrest and tailstock conflict for
ways space. I bought mine at the AAW Louisville but I think Harbor Freight
has a reasonably priced set actually. I could care less about the extension
for my work.
Enjoy. Regardless of brand or size the whole deal is a kick. Practice on
some tops for the kids - they love 'em. Do some Harry Potter wands. Do some
etc.etc.etc. just for the fun of it. Find some dogwood for finials (close
grained).
TomNie
"ChrisGW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I was thinking about trying my hand at turning. Mostly small things like
>pens, bowls, etc... I was looking at the Jet 708351B JML-1014, which if I
>want to do some longer items I could get the bed extention also.
>
> Does anyon here have one or used one and what is your opinion of it.
>
> Thanks
> Chris
>
>