I have always understood that planer snipe is caused because the board
being planed is not held down flat for its length while going thru the
planer.
I thought that by providing a longer bed board I could eliminate the
snipe, so I bought a 4' long piece of 3/4" MDF to act as a bed. I still
have snipe.
Any comments or suggestions?
On Mon, 01 Dec 2003 15:07:06 GMT, GrayFox <[email protected]> wrotg:
>I have always understood that planer snipe is caused because the board
>being planed is not held down flat for its length while going thru the
>planer.
>
>I thought that by providing a longer bed board I could eliminate the
>snipe, so I bought a 4' long piece of 3/4" MDF to act as a bed. I still
>have snipe.
>
>Any comments or suggestions?
There is also the old trick of leading and trailing with a scape of
wood about the same thickness. I keep some 6" by 6" by different
thickness scapes near the planner for this pupose. I found that
something close to the thickness works fine to get the rollers about
to the right place minimizing snipe.
John
The new generation of planers (DW734, 735, etc) have little to no snipe. I
have the DW734, and it is an excellent machine. I think you would have to
really try to make this thing snipe..
"GrayFox" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have always understood that planer snipe is caused because the board
> being planed is not held down flat for its length while going thru the
> planer.
>
> I thought that by providing a longer bed board I could eliminate the
> snipe, so I bought a 4' long piece of 3/4" MDF to act as a bed. I still
> have snipe.
>
> Any comments or suggestions?
In addition to the other suggestions - what does the other face of the board
look like? I had a problem with snipe that I couldn't get rid of. Tried
every trick and adjustment I could find. Finally I put a long straight edge
to the jointed face and noticed a slight dip at the end.(I'd been eyeballing
it but my eyes arn't so great anymore). Adjusted the jointer and the planer
snipe went away.
"GrayFox" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have always understood that planer snipe is caused because the board
> being planed is not held down flat for its length while going thru the
> planer.
>
> I thought that by providing a longer bed board I could eliminate the
> snipe, so I bought a 4' long piece of 3/4" MDF to act as a bed. I still
> have snipe.
>
> Any comments or suggestions?
Gray Fox asks:
>I have always understood that planer snipe is caused because the board
>being planed is not held down flat for its length while going thru the
>planer.
>
>I thought that by providing a longer bed board I could eliminate the
>snipe, so I bought a 4' long piece of 3/4" MDF to act as a bed. I still
>have snipe.
A longer outfeed table, if it's precisely aligned will help, but a lot of snipe
is caused by head movement on small planers. Does your planer have a head lock?
Are you using it consistently?
Line up your new outfeed table and lock the head and see if that helps.
Failing that, doing a hands-on slight lift of the output end of the board may
also help. Remember "slight."
Charlie Self
"I have as much authority as the Pope, I just don't have as many people who
believe it." George Carlin
I think the board is held down most when it is under the infeed roller
and the outfeed roller. (exit snipe related to infeed roller and v.v.)
It certainly bugged me on my 733. Now I have a 15 inch delta and no
snipe at all. Bet rollers adjusted to .002 inch. If I don't tighten the
planer, then I get a little bit. No snipe is nice. If only there was an
adjustment for the downward force of the feed rollers on a 733. Or any
benchtop. My 733 delivered good snip on entry and exit and there was no
holding the board ends up enough. But that 's just me.
John
GrayFox wrote:
>I have always understood that planer snipe is caused because the board
>being planed is not held down flat for its length while going thru the
>planer.
>
>I thought that by providing a longer bed board I could eliminate the
>snipe, so I bought a 4' long piece of 3/4" MDF to act as a bed. I still
>have snipe.
>
>Any comments or suggestions?
>
>
Rumpty wrote:
> Snipe is one of the "costs" of doing business.
I can't find any snipe on my boards. Maybe with a micrometer...
but not with a ruler and certainly not with eyes or hands.
Snipe is one of the "costs" of light-duty planers.
--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************
mine doesn't snipe either, Barry... (733, that is)
dave
B a r r y B u r k e J r . wrote:
> On Wed, 03 Dec 2003 02:51:47 GMT, Chris Merrill
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>>Snipe is one of the "costs" of light-duty planers.
>
>
> It seems to be a cost that DeWalt cut out of my 733. <G>
>
> Bary
>
"Chris Merrill" wrote ...
> I can't find any snipe on my boards. Maybe with a micrometer...
> but not with a ruler and certainly not with eyes or hands.
>
> Snipe is one of the "costs" of light-duty planers.
Horse puckey. I have a Makita 12 inch and I never get it.
--
Cheers,
Howard
----------------------------------------------------------
Working wood in New Jersey - [email protected]
Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org
Snipe is one of the "costs" of doing business.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"GrayFox" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have always understood that planer snipe is caused because the board
> being planed is not held down flat for its length while going thru the
> planer.
[email protected] (Charlie Self) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> A longer outfeed table, if it's precisely aligned will help,
Rather than fight with aligning an outfeed table, just run a long
piece of ply/MDF/whatever(*) all the way thru, making the infeed
and outfeed all one piece. You loose 3/4 inch or whatever of
thickness capability, but how often do you need all 6" that the
typical planer gives you anyway?
John
(* ply coated with laminate to make it nice & slippery would
be my choice...)
On Wed, 03 Dec 2003 02:51:47 GMT, Chris Merrill
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Snipe is one of the "costs" of light-duty planers.
It seems to be a cost that DeWalt cut out of my 733. <G>
Bary
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Gray Fox asks:
>
> >I have always understood that planer snipe is caused because the
board
> >being planed is not held down flat for its length while going thru
the
> >planer.
> >
> >I thought that by providing a longer bed board I could eliminate the
> >snipe, so I bought a 4' long piece of 3/4" MDF to act as a bed. I
still
> >have snipe.
>
> A longer outfeed table, if it's precisely aligned will help, but a lot
of snipe
> is caused by head movement on small planers. Does your planer have a
head lock?
> Are you using it consistently?
>
> Line up your new outfeed table and lock the head and see if that
helps.
>
> Failing that, doing a hands-on slight lift of the output end of the
board may
> also help. Remember "slight."
>
> Charlie Self
Also, if you have multiple boards to plane, (and they're narrow enough)
send them through with some "overlap" and you'll only have snipe on the
first and last board.
some brands of planers are known to have snipe problems. which one do
you have?
dave
GrayFox wrote:
> I have always understood that planer snipe is caused because the board
> being planed is not held down flat for its length while going thru the
> planer.
>
> I thought that by providing a longer bed board I could eliminate the
> snipe, so I bought a 4' long piece of 3/4" MDF to act as a bed. I still
> have snipe.
>
> Any comments or suggestions?
On Wed, 3 Dec 2003 17:16:10 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
<[email protected]> wrote:
>[email protected] (Charlie Self) wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> A longer outfeed table, if it's precisely aligned will help,
>
>Rather than fight with aligning an outfeed table, just run a long
>piece of ply/MDF/whatever(*) all the way thru, making the infeed
>and outfeed all one piece. You loose 3/4 inch or whatever of
>thickness capability, but how often do you need all 6" that the
>typical planer gives you anyway?
>
>John
>
>(* ply coated with laminate to make it nice & slippery would
>be my choice...)
You beat me to it, I was about to suggest the same thing. I use a
piece of 12" melamine shelving and it works great. Snipe is pretty
much a thing of the past.
-- jc
Published e-mail address is strictly for spam collection.
If e-mailing me, please use jc631 at optonline dot net
GrayFox wrote:
> I have always understood that planer snipe is caused because the board
> being planed is not held down flat for its length while going thru the
> planer.
>
> I thought that by providing a longer bed board I could eliminate the
> snipe, so I bought a 4' long piece of 3/4" MDF to act as a bed. I still
> have snipe.
>
> Any comments or suggestions?
I have a DeWalt 733 planer and have found the best way to avoid snipe is
neither difficult nor expensive. If I hold up on the piece as it exits the
planer I get no snipe. No jigs, etc, just a little up pressure and the
board comes out clean and smooth.
Deb