I started to work on my poly finish today. I started with 320 grit lubed
with mineral oil. I cut through the finish and removed some stain. OUCH!
I tried to patch the area that was removed with more stain, but it didn't
look good. I had to sand all the poly and stain off back to bare wood.
I just finished restaining with my dye stain.
Question: would it look funny to do the top in another clear coat and have
the rest of the table in poly?
In article <[email protected]>,
Mojo <[email protected]> wrote:
>Sorry for being ignorant but what is CV?? Hope its not something i
>should know but i am very new to this
Context is everything. <grin>
I sent my <c>onversion <v>arnish to the university, when applying for a job.
There's a <c>iriculum <v>itae joint in my car,
I applied <c>onstant <v>elocity finish to my latest project.
And, some messages in USENET newsgroups are nothing more than
<c>athartic <v>enting.
<http://www.acronymfinder.com> only lists SIXTY possible meanings for "CV",
and does -not- include "conversion varnish" in that number. In the context
of the article which prompted your question, -none- of those 60 possiblilities
are appropriate.
BTW, first time _I_ ran into that acronym, I assumed it was "catalyzed" (or
"catalytic") varnish.
Jeff Weiss, Target Coatings, recently explained what CV is for his
workd of waterbased finishes. Visit the forum at
www.targetcoatings.com
On Thu, 05 Feb 2004 15:14:53 +0000, [email protected]
(Robert Bonomi) wrote:
>BTW, first time _I_ ran into that acronym, I assumed it was "catalyzed" (or
>"catalytic") varnish.
I've got Miniwhacks poly on my desk top and drawer fronts. I hate using
the slow drying poly, so I invested in Enduro water borne poly and
applied that to the rest of the desk. All surfaces look for all intents
and purposes to have been coated with the same materials. You can get
sand through with the Enduro. I prefer dry sanding so that I can see
what I'm doing...
I suspect that you might be thinking of something else? If you want the
top to be durable, the experts warn against shellac and lacquer. Only
safe choices seem to be poly or CV... not that I'm any expert, but I
made a lot of phone calls to coatings reps, and read all the required
books such as Flexner.
dave
stoutman wrote:
> I started to work on my poly finish today. I started with 320 grit lubed
> with mineral oil. I cut through the finish and removed some stain. OUCH!
>
> I tried to patch the area that was removed with more stain, but it didn't
> look good. I had to sand all the poly and stain off back to bare wood.
>
> I just finished restaining with my dye stain.
>
> Question: would it look funny to do the top in another clear coat and have
> the rest of the table in poly?
>
>
conversion varnish. It uses nasty catalysts. solvent is xylene, and it
gives off formaldehyde fumes. I got talked out of it when inquiring
about it at Sherwin Williams pro coatings division. So I shoot Enduro
waterbased poly, shellac, or poly (messy to spray)
dave
Mojo wrote:
> Sorry for being ignorant but what is CV?? Hope its not something i
> should know but i am very new to this