Anybody ever use one of these? Do you think that it is suitable for
drawer contruction in kitchen cabinets - will the joints hold up in
the long run? I'm sure dovetails can't be beat for strength and
looks, but even with a good jig, they seem much more time consuming
that this setup.
http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/sr.cgi?1077114912_29719+71
Thought, opinions, random musing all welcome.
I do. No I don't do kitchens exclusively, but when I do a set of cabs for a
kitchen every drawer is dovetailed. If your jig is set up right it really
doesn't take any longer to half blind a drawer than it does to make most any
other joint. I guess its like you said, its a personal opinion.
Jim
"Bob Davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This is a personal opinion. It seems to me nobody who is in the cabinet
> business for kitchens uses dovetails.
> Anybody ever use one of these? Do you think that it is suitable for
> drawer contruction in kitchen cabinets - will the joints hold up in
> the long run? I'm sure dovetails can't be beat for strength and
> looks, but even with a good jig, they seem much more time consuming
> that this setup.
>
> http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/sr.cgi?1077114912_29719+71
>
> Thought, opinions, random musing all welcome.
I just made a set of kitchen drawers using a similar bit and 1/2" baltic
birch. It takes about 15 minutes and a few test cuts to set up, especially
if you've never done it before, but once done you can proceed fairly fast
(at about a minute or two per drawer). I'd think the drawers are plenty
strong for kitchen use. There's a lot of glue surface making for a robust
joint.
> FYI, you don't need a special bit to do a locking-rabbet drawer joint.
> It can be done with only a 1/4" straight bit. For that matter, you can
> do it all on the TS with a 1/4" dado blade.
No, you don't, but the advantage of the drawer lock bit is that once you
have it set up you can cut both sides and fronts/backs with the same setup,
and the joints are very tight and precise. With the straight bit or
tablesaw, you'll need to change the setup between sides and front/backs.
It looks just like the joint produced by the drawer lock bit. It looks like
it would take 3 setups and 3 cuts to make on a tablesaw. Am I missing
something? I can see where a drawer lock bit would be much, much faster and
accurate. I watched the guy a the woodworking show using a drawer lock bit.
There's no way I could compete with him using a table saw.
Bob
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Bob Davis" wrote in message
> > I'm not exactly sure what you mean by a locking-rabbet drawer joint.
> Could
> > you describe it to me so I can learn something?
>
>
http://www.shopsmithhandson.com/archives/nov_dec_02/html/majorproject/mpplans4.pdf
>
> Can also be cut on a table saw with a regular blade.
>
> --
> www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 2/13/04
>
>
You're not missing anything. You wanted to know what the joint looked like,
I showed you. How you want to effect the joint is up to you, your wallet,
and the equipment you have on hand.
Note carefully that all I remarked was that it _could_ "also" be cut on the
table saw.
IME, it is wise to not lock yourself into one way, or one tool, to do
things, no pun intended ... relying on specialty router bits when all the
stores are closed, or out of stock, can cost you in a pinch.
FWIW, when I first learned the joint some 40 years ago, it was called a
"half blind lap joint" ... those who say it is as strong as a dovetail are
fooling themselves, IMO.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/13/04
"Bob Davis" wrote in message
> It looks just like the joint produced by the drawer lock bit. It looks
like
> it would take 3 setups and 3 cuts to make on a tablesaw. Am I missing
> something? I can see where a drawer lock bit would be much, much faster
and
> accurate. I watched the guy a the woodworking show using a drawer lock
bit.
> There's no way I could compete with him using a table saw.
>
>
> Bob
>
> "Swingman"wrote in message
>
> > "Bob Davis" wrote in message
> > > I'm not exactly sure what you mean by a locking-rabbet drawer joint.
> > Could
> > > you describe it to me so I can learn something?
> >
> >
>
http://www.shopsmithhandson.com/archives/nov_dec_02/html/majorproject/mpplans4.pdf
> >
> > Can also be cut on a table saw with a regular blade.
> >
> > --
> > www.e-woodshop.net
> > Last update: 2/13/04
Now you tell me...I didn't do this, but I've wished a couple of times I
had. The bit takes a little fiddling to get it right, but works great
once you get it set up. I made 8 large drawers for a dresser using it
about a year ago and even though some of the drawers are used daily the
joint has held up great. Once you get it set up do save a scrap piece
that you can use as a gauge for the next time.
--
Larry C in Auburn WA
"RPRESHONG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >Thought, opinions, random musing all welcome.
> >
>
> One small suggestion. When you get the bit set up so that your ready
to cut the
> drawer parts, cut a piece of scrap and save it so that you have a
gauge for the
> next time. It makes setup a whole lot eaiser.
Thank you for the complete reply, Swingman. I didn't mean to challenge you.
I just didn't understand. I agree - a dovetail is about as strong as it
gets for this application.
Bob
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You're not missing anything. You wanted to know what the joint looked
like,
> I showed you. How you want to effect the joint is up to you, your wallet,
> and the equipment you have on hand.
>
> Note carefully that all I remarked was that it _could_ "also" be cut on
the
> table saw.
>
> IME, it is wise to not lock yourself into one way, or one tool, to do
> things, no pun intended ... relying on specialty router bits when all the
> stores are closed, or out of stock, can cost you in a pinch.
>
> FWIW, when I first learned the joint some 40 years ago, it was called a
> "half blind lap joint" ... those who say it is as strong as a dovetail are
> fooling themselves, IMO.
>
> --
> www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 2/13/04
>
> "Bob Davis" wrote in message
> > It looks just like the joint produced by the drawer lock bit. It looks
> like
> > it would take 3 setups and 3 cuts to make on a tablesaw. Am I missing
> > something? I can see where a drawer lock bit would be much, much faster
> and
> > accurate. I watched the guy a the woodworking show using a drawer lock
> bit.
> > There's no way I could compete with him using a table saw.
> >
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > "Swingman"wrote in message
> >
> > > "Bob Davis" wrote in message
> > > > I'm not exactly sure what you mean by a locking-rabbet drawer joint.
> > > Could
> > > > you describe it to me so I can learn something?
> > >
> > >
> >
>
http://www.shopsmithhandson.com/archives/nov_dec_02/html/majorproject/mpplans4.pdf
> > >
> > > Can also be cut on a table saw with a regular blade.
> > >
> > > --
> > > www.e-woodshop.net
> > > Last update: 2/13/04
>
>
"Wyatt Wright" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Anybody ever use one of these? Do you think that it is suitable for
> drawer contruction in kitchen cabinets - will the joints hold up in
> the long run? I'm sure dovetails can't be beat for strength and
> looks, but even with a good jig, they seem much more time consuming
> that this setup.
>
> http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/sr.cgi?1077114912_29719+71
>
> Thought, opinions, random musing all welcome.
As long as you want random musings...
I just bought a drawer lock and used it for one drawer. It was a somewhat
different shape than the one you show. I had a cherry front and poplar
sides.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_doo
r.html#drawer_lock_bits_anchor
PN 7851
It took a while to set up, but the results were great; until I flexed it a
tad to put the back on and part of the poplar broke off where it set into
the cherry. I don't know if it was a problem with the poplar not being
strong enough, or if the design is flawed. (any comments anyone?) But the
glue joint held.
As long as I have the bit I will certainly try it again, but I don't think I
could recommend buying the bit.
Toller, what thickness was the poplar? The link you listed indicates the
bit #7851 is for 3/4" stock and #7852 is for 1/2" stock.
Bob
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_doo
> r.html#drawer_lock_bits_anchor
> PN 7851
> It took a while to set up, but the results were great; until I flexed it a
> tad to put the back on and part of the poplar broke off where it set into
> the cherry. I don't know if it was a problem with the poplar not being
> strong enough, or if the design is flawed. (any comments anyone?) But
the
> glue joint held.
>
Wyatt Wright wrote:
> Anybody ever use one of these? Do you think that it is suitable for
> drawer contruction in kitchen cabinets - will the joints hold up in
> the long run? I'm sure dovetails can't be beat for strength and
> looks, but even with a good jig, they seem much more time consuming
> that this setup.
FYI, you don't need a special bit to do a locking-rabbet drawer joint.
It can be done with only a 1/4" straight bit. For that matter, you can
do it all on the TS with a 1/4" dado blade.
C
--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************
"Wyatt Wright" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Anybody ever use one of these? Do you think that it is suitable for
> drawer contruction in kitchen cabinets - will the joints hold up in
> the long run? I'm sure dovetails can't be beat for strength and
> looks, but even with a good jig, they seem much more time consuming
> that this setup.
>
> http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/sr.cgi?1077114912_29719+71
>
> Thought, opinions, random musing all welcome.
I use this one:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=C1330
Does a fine job. Yes, takes a little fussing to set up, but makes a nice
joint. This one can also be used like a tongue & groove edge joint.
--
Nahmie
Those who know the least will always know it the loudest.
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.588 / Virus Database: 372 - Release Date: 2/13/2004
I'm not exactly sure what you mean by a locking-rabbet drawer joint. Could
you describe it to me so I can learn something?
Bob
1. more non-end grain glue surface area
"Chris Merrill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Yx4Zb.18668$%[email protected]...
> Wyatt Wright wrote:
> > Anybody ever use one of these? Do you think that it is suitable for
> > drawer contruction in kitchen cabinets - will the joints hold up in
> > the long run? I'm sure dovetails can't be beat for strength and
> > looks, but even with a good jig, they seem much more time consuming
> > that this setup.
>
> FYI, you don't need a special bit to do a locking-rabbet drawer joint.
> It can be done with only a 1/4" straight bit. For that matter, you can
> do it all on the TS with a 1/4" dado blade.
>
> C
>
>
> --
> ************************************
> Chris Merrill
> [email protected]
> (remove the ZZZ to contact me)
> ************************************
>
My opinion, with lots of glue area and the interlocking design any great
strength difference between a drawer lock joint and dovetails isn't worth
mentioning.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Wyatt Wright" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Anybody ever use one of these? Do you think that it is suitable for
> drawer contruction in kitchen cabinets - will the joints hold up in
> the long run? I'm sure dovetails can't be beat for strength and
> looks, but even with a good jig, they seem much more time consuming
> that this setup.
>
> http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/sr.cgi?1077114912_29719+71
>
> Thought, opinions, random musing all welcome.
"Bob Davis" wrote in message
> I'm not exactly sure what you mean by a locking-rabbet drawer joint.
Could
> you describe it to me so I can learn something?
http://www.shopsmithhandson.com/archives/nov_dec_02/html/majorproject/mpplans4.pdf
Can also be cut on a table saw with a regular blade.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/13/04
This is a personal opinion. It seems to me nobody who is in the cabinet
business for kitchens uses dovetails. Things like locking drawer joints and
pocket hole joinery are what a commercial cabinet maker needs to keep their
costs down and have reasonable quality work. Dovetails are for fine
furniture and hobbyists who don't need to make money with woodworking.
Bob
"Wyatt Wright" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Anybody ever use one of these? Do you think that it is suitable for
> drawer contruction in kitchen cabinets - will the joints hold up in
> the long run? I'm sure dovetails can't be beat for strength and
> looks, but even with a good jig, they seem much more time consuming
> that this setup.
>
> http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/sr.cgi?1077114912_29719+71
>
> Thought, opinions, random musing all welcome.