I have a tablesaw with a sliding cutoff box that I often use to cut small
pieces of wood and plastic.
Today I needed to cut some aluminum (about 3/32" thick).
I put in a steel blade that was marked "for aluminum and plastic" and had a
difficult time. The cutting went slowly and the aluminum got very hot. By
the end, the blade was bent.
I then put in a 40-tooth (8-inch dia.) Piranha carbide-tipped wood-cutting
blade that was several years old. It cut the aluminum very happily, with
very little heat.
I know this is putting more wear on the blade than wood would, but how much
more? Am I doing anything harmful to the tools? Seems to me the original
"aluminum and plastic" blade was much worse.
> Many thanks. I have a carefully built sliding cutoff table with essentially
> zero clearance, and if whatever I'm cutting is so small that my fingers
> would be close to the blade, I put a block of wood down on it and hold it
> down with that.
I used some of the blades called nail biters, meant to cut off nails in
old lumber. That worked pretty well because it had little rake, but any
Carbide blade works. When I worked for someone who could afford it, we
would use those radically expensive fine tooth blades and the cuts were
lots smoother. We usually would just have a guy shoot a shot of WD 40
now and then.
The most important part of this job is the wearing of Gloves, Eye
protection, and NEVER let off a stern grip. When a chunk of aluminum
gets kicked back, things tend to hurt for a while. Use every method
possible to ensure it does not kickback, and your board on the top is a
good step.
Grummy
Frank Drackman wrote:
> "mc" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >> April 2006 Workbench has some information on cutting aluminum on a
> >> tablesaw. They recommend using a regular carbide blade with a zero
> >> clearance insert and also mounting the aluminum with double-sided tape to
> >> a
> >> sacrificial piece of hardboard, then usig a pushblock with a heal to push
> >> the aluminum through the blade. Workbench April 2006, pp 34 ff.
> >
> > Many thanks. I have a carefully built sliding cutoff table with
> > essentially zero clearance, and if whatever I'm cutting is so small that
> > my fingers would be close to the blade, I put a block of wood down on it
> > and hold it down with that.
> >
> >
>
> Don't use dust collection when cutting metal.
Out of curiosity, why not?
Josh
When we build patio covers we cut the "C" channels, bracing, and heavy
columns with a 10" chopsaw with a regular 60 tooth wood cutting blade
that was retired from finish work.
I cleaned all the resin and buildup off it before using it on aluminum
an it works great.
I can only imagine the same results in a table saw. No matter what
though, wear your goggles. Those little aluminum chips really fly
around and have sharp edges. They stick in my arm all the time and I
just brush them off. But that wouldn't work in the eyes.
Robert
Mike Marlow wrote:
> "Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Mon, 27 Feb 2006 22:18:42 -0500, "mc" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I have a tablesaw with a sliding cutoff box that I often use to cut small
>>> pieces of wood and plastic.
>>>
>>> Today I needed to cut some aluminum (about 3/32" thick).
>>>
>>> I put in a steel blade that was marked "for aluminum and plastic" and had
> a
>>> difficult time. The cutting went slowly and the aluminum got very hot.
> By
>>> the end, the blade was bent.
>>>
>>> I then put in a 40-tooth (8-inch dia.) Piranha carbide-tipped
> wood-cutting
>>> blade that was several years old. It cut the aluminum very happily, with
>>> very little heat.
>>>
>>> I know this is putting more wear on the blade than wood would, but how
> much
>>> more? Am I doing anything harmful to the tools? Seems to me the
> original
>>> "aluminum and plastic" blade was much worse.
>>>
>> April 2006 Workbench has some information on cutting aluminum on a
>> tablesaw. They recommend using a regular carbide blade with a zero
>> clearance insert and also mounting the aluminum with double-sided tape to
> a
>> sacrificial piece of hardboard, then usig a pushblock with a heal to push
>> the aluminum through the blade. Workbench April 2006, pp 34 ff.
>>
>
> Any idea what the purpose of the sacrificial chunk of hardboard is? Perhaps
> for cutting small pieces? I can't imagine any need for one if there isn't
> an issue of getting one's fingers too close to the blade.
>
One of the problems I had was vibration - rapid lift/contact with the
table. I expect that was from the slight spring in the metal. The
hardboard would add mass and dampen that.
On Mon, 27 Feb 2006 22:18:42 -0500, "mc"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a tablesaw with a sliding cutoff box that I often use to cut small
>pieces of wood and plastic.
>
>Today I needed to cut some aluminum (about 3/32" thick).
>
>I put in a steel blade that was marked "for aluminum and plastic" and had a
>difficult time. The cutting went slowly and the aluminum got very hot. By
>the end, the blade was bent.
>
>I then put in a 40-tooth (8-inch dia.) Piranha carbide-tipped wood-cutting
>blade that was several years old. It cut the aluminum very happily, with
>very little heat.
>
>I know this is putting more wear on the blade than wood would, but how much
>more? Am I doing anything harmful to the tools? Seems to me the original
>"aluminum and plastic" blade was much worse.
>
proper tool for the job is a "non ferrous metals" blade - has Carbide
tips with a different profile and set than the wood blade. draw your
line with a candle first - the wax keeps the chips from sticking in
the gullet.
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In article <[email protected]>, Mark & Juanita
<[email protected]> wrote:
> pushblock with a heal to push the aluminum through the blade
Mark,
In this context, is "heal" a typo for "heel", or something specific to
cutting aluminium?
(serious question, no sarcasm intended)
--
Talking about art is like dancing about architecture - Frank Zappa
"Amused" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
snip-------
>
> Several years ago, I watched a pole barn being built. The crew used high
> speed steel blades, REVERSED in the skill saws to cut the metal.
That process is known as friction sawing, and is used to great advantage for
sawing even heat treated items. DoAll makes vertical band saws
specifically for that application, with blade speeds that exceed 10,000 FPM.
One can saw with a blade inserted with the teeth running backwards equally
as well as with the teeth running forward. They don't cut by the same
principle as low speed machining.
Harold
"Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 27 Feb 2006 22:18:42 -0500, "mc" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >I have a tablesaw with a sliding cutoff box that I often use to cut small
> >pieces of wood and plastic.
> >
> >Today I needed to cut some aluminum (about 3/32" thick).
> >
> >I put in a steel blade that was marked "for aluminum and plastic" and had
a
> >difficult time. The cutting went slowly and the aluminum got very hot.
By
> >the end, the blade was bent.
> >
> >I then put in a 40-tooth (8-inch dia.) Piranha carbide-tipped
wood-cutting
> >blade that was several years old. It cut the aluminum very happily, with
> >very little heat.
> >
> >I know this is putting more wear on the blade than wood would, but how
much
> >more? Am I doing anything harmful to the tools? Seems to me the
original
> >"aluminum and plastic" blade was much worse.
> >
>
> April 2006 Workbench has some information on cutting aluminum on a
> tablesaw. They recommend using a regular carbide blade with a zero
> clearance insert and also mounting the aluminum with double-sided tape to
a
> sacrificial piece of hardboard, then usig a pushblock with a heal to push
> the aluminum through the blade. Workbench April 2006, pp 34 ff.
>
Any idea what the purpose of the sacrificial chunk of hardboard is? Perhaps
for cutting small pieces? I can't imagine any need for one if there isn't
an issue of getting one's fingers too close to the blade.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"mc"
> I know this is putting more wear on the blade than wood would, but how much more? Am I doing anything harmful to the tools?
> Seems to me the original "aluminum and plastic" blade was much worse.
Sears sells an Aluminum/Laminate triple grind tooth carbide blade that does
quite well. I've cut out tons of .080 aluminum and it still cuts the same, fast
and no heat.
"mc" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
| I have a tablesaw with a sliding cutoff box that I often use to cut
small
| pieces of wood and plastic.
|
| Today I needed to cut some aluminum (about 3/32" thick).
|
| I put in a steel blade that was marked "for aluminum and plastic"
and had a
| difficult time. The cutting went slowly and the aluminum got very
hot. By
| the end, the blade was bent.
|
| I then put in a 40-tooth (8-inch dia.) Piranha carbide-tipped
wood-cutting
| blade that was several years old. It cut the aluminum very happily,
with
| very little heat.
|
| I know this is putting more wear on the blade than wood would, but
how much
| more? Am I doing anything harmful to the tools? Seems to me the
original
| "aluminum and plastic" blade was much worse.
The aircraft shop next to mine uses a chop saw with a wood-cutting
blade to cut not only aluminum, but also chrome moly steel tubing.
They report that with a slow, even feed the blades last for a long
time.
"Very hot" means either dull blade or feeding too slowly. Carbide
teeth flying around the shop indicate excessive feed speed. DAMHIKT.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
"Rex B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Mike Marlow wrote:
> > Any idea what the purpose of the sacrificial chunk of hardboard is?
Perhaps
> > for cutting small pieces? I can't imagine any need for one if there
isn't
> > an issue of getting one's fingers too close to the blade.
> >
>
> One of the problems I had was vibration - rapid lift/contact with the
> table. I expect that was from the slight spring in the metal. The
> hardboard would add mass and dampen that.
That makes sense.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Mark & Juanita wrote:
> April 2006 Workbench has some information on cutting aluminum on a
> tablesaw. They recommend using a regular carbide blade with a zero
> clearance insert and also mounting the aluminum with double-sided
> tape to a sacrificial piece of hardboard
Good point (the hardboard)...I lost a bunch of teeth on a thin kerf
blade I really liked one time when a thin piece of aluminum wrapped
around it :(
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> I know this is putting more wear on the blade than wood would, but how much
> more? Am I doing anything harmful to the tools? Seems to me the original
> "aluminum and plastic" blade was much worse.
>
First up, you should have no problem whatsoever cutting alu with carbide.
The funny thing is, I do exactly the opposite: I got an aluminium cutting
carbide blade from my sawdoctor; it has very close set teeth and a negative
rake on it and I use this blade for super clean wood cutting - for instance
when I use MDF panels with .5mm real wood veneer for frame and panel - with an
ordinary sawblade this veneer will chip back up to 3mm from the (trailing)
edge, with the aluminium cutting blade it doesn't. Cost me a small fortune but
worth every cent :-)
-P.
--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
"Josh" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Frank Drackman wrote:
>> "mc" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> >> April 2006 Workbench has some information on cutting aluminum on a
>> >> tablesaw. They recommend using a regular carbide blade with a zero
>> >> clearance insert and also mounting the aluminum with double-sided tape
>> >> to
>> >> a
>> >> sacrificial piece of hardboard, then usig a pushblock with a heal to
>> >> push
>> >> the aluminum through the blade. Workbench April 2006, pp 34 ff.
>> >
>> > Many thanks. I have a carefully built sliding cutoff table with
>> > essentially zero clearance, and if whatever I'm cutting is so small
>> > that
>> > my fingers would be close to the blade, I put a block of wood down on
>> > it
>> > and hold it down with that.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Don't use dust collection when cutting metal.
>
> Out of curiosity, why not?
>
It is really easy to start a fire with hot metal shavings and a pile of dry
woodchips.
On Mon, 27 Feb 2006 22:30:27 -0600, Dave Balderstone
<dave***@balderstone.ca> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>, Mark & Juanita
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> pushblock with a heal to push the aluminum through the blade
>
>Mark,
>
>In this context, is "heal" a typo for "heel", or something specific to
>cutting aluminium?
>
>(serious question, no sarcasm intended)
You are correct, it was a typo (can't believe I didn't catch that before
sending). i.e, the pushblock (they recommend a 2 x 4) has a heel that
catches on the back end of the sacrificial hardboard to push the
hardboard/aluminum piece through the blade.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
"mc" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> April 2006 Workbench has some information on cutting aluminum on a
>> tablesaw. They recommend using a regular carbide blade with a zero
>> clearance insert and also mounting the aluminum with double-sided tape to
>> a
>> sacrificial piece of hardboard, then usig a pushblock with a heal to push
>> the aluminum through the blade. Workbench April 2006, pp 34 ff.
>
> Many thanks. I have a carefully built sliding cutoff table with
> essentially zero clearance, and if whatever I'm cutting is so small that
> my fingers would be close to the blade, I put a block of wood down on it
> and hold it down with that.
>
>
Don't use dust collection when cutting metal.
"mc" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a tablesaw with a sliding cutoff box that I often use to cut small
>pieces of wood and plastic.
>
> Today I needed to cut some aluminum (about 3/32" thick).
>
> I put in a steel blade that was marked "for aluminum and plastic" and had
> a difficult time. The cutting went slowly and the aluminum got very hot.
> By the end, the blade was bent.
>
> I then put in a 40-tooth (8-inch dia.) Piranha carbide-tipped wood-cutting
> blade that was several years old. It cut the aluminum very happily, with
> very little heat.
>
> I know this is putting more wear on the blade than wood would, but how
> much more? Am I doing anything harmful to the tools? Seems to me the
> original "aluminum and plastic" blade was much worse.
>
>
I have an old DeWalt 60-tooth that I've use to cut both aluminum and steel,
on my table saw. (Several pieces of aluminum. One piece of 1/8" steel).
Works very well. I am careful to feed the material rather slowly, and if
the carbide teeth start breaking off, I'll chuck the blade. The idea of
carbide pieces bouncing around my shop, does give me some pause. But so
far, no problem.
Several years ago, I watched a pole barn being built. The crew used high
speed steel blades, REVERSED in the skill saws to cut the metal.
THERE is no recommendation in this post. I'm just saying, I've tried it and
it works for me.
"And as always, there is no more important rule than to wear these, safety
glasses."
> April 2006 Workbench has some information on cutting aluminum on a
> tablesaw. They recommend using a regular carbide blade with a zero
> clearance insert and also mounting the aluminum with double-sided tape to
> a
> sacrificial piece of hardboard, then usig a pushblock with a heal to push
> the aluminum through the blade. Workbench April 2006, pp 34 ff.
Many thanks. I have a carefully built sliding cutoff table with essentially
zero clearance, and if whatever I'm cutting is so small that my fingers
would be close to the blade, I put a block of wood down on it and hold it
down with that.
On 27 Feb 2006 21:20:17 -0800, "Josh" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Frank Drackman wrote:
>> "mc" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> >> April 2006 Workbench has some information on cutting aluminum on a
>> >> tablesaw. They recommend using a regular carbide blade with a zero
>> >> clearance insert and also mounting the aluminum with double-sided tape to
>> >> a
>> >> sacrificial piece of hardboard, then usig a pushblock with a heal to push
>> >> the aluminum through the blade. Workbench April 2006, pp 34 ff.
>> >
>> > Many thanks. I have a carefully built sliding cutoff table with
>> > essentially zero clearance, and if whatever I'm cutting is so small that
>> > my fingers would be close to the blade, I put a block of wood down on it
>> > and hold it down with that.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Don't use dust collection when cutting metal.
>
>Out of curiosity, why not?
>
>Josh
Because you can set your dust collector on fire very unexpectedly. And
may burn very hot and very vigorously with that air flow stoking it
on.
Gunner
"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them;
the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences."
- Proverbs 22:3
On Mon, 27 Feb 2006 22:18:42 -0500, "mc" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I have a tablesaw with a sliding cutoff box that I often use to cut small
>pieces of wood and plastic.
>
>Today I needed to cut some aluminum (about 3/32" thick).
>
>I put in a steel blade that was marked "for aluminum and plastic" and had a
>difficult time. The cutting went slowly and the aluminum got very hot. By
>the end, the blade was bent.
>
>I then put in a 40-tooth (8-inch dia.) Piranha carbide-tipped wood-cutting
>blade that was several years old. It cut the aluminum very happily, with
>very little heat.
>
>I know this is putting more wear on the blade than wood would, but how much
>more? Am I doing anything harmful to the tools? Seems to me the original
>"aluminum and plastic" blade was much worse.
>
April 2006 Workbench has some information on cutting aluminum on a
tablesaw. They recommend using a regular carbide blade with a zero
clearance insert and also mounting the aluminum with double-sided tape to a
sacrificial piece of hardboard, then usig a pushblock with a heal to push
the aluminum through the blade. Workbench April 2006, pp 34 ff.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
On Mon, 27 Feb 2006 22:18:42 -0500, "mc"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a tablesaw with a sliding cutoff box that I often use to cut small
>pieces of wood and plastic.
>
>Today I needed to cut some aluminum (about 3/32" thick).
>
>I put in a steel blade that was marked "for aluminum and plastic" and had a
>difficult time. The cutting went slowly and the aluminum got very hot. By
>the end, the blade was bent.
>
>I then put in a 40-tooth (8-inch dia.) Piranha carbide-tipped wood-cutting
>blade that was several years old. It cut the aluminum very happily, with
>very little heat.
>
>I know this is putting more wear on the blade than wood would, but how much
>more? Am I doing anything harmful to the tools? Seems to me the original
>"aluminum and plastic" blade was much worse.
>
I used to work in an aluminum extrusion plant. Take a toilet wax seal
and punch the on button on your saw and touch the wax seal to the
blade and then cut. Will be smoother and less heat.