I had been planning to use 3/4 oak for the sides, backs, and false fronts for my new
WB drawers. However. "George"'s recent post about "How not to store a plane" stated
MOL, not to use oak, to store a plane, since it was an acid wood.
The tools, etc. to be put into the drawers would not be in DIRECT contact with the
oak, but only exposed to the out-gassing from the oak, if any.
Now I am back to square one. I have available at my local lumber yard poplar and SYP
at cheaper prices than the 2 Borgs. I am considering using kiln dried SYP and be done
with it. The only advantage to the Borgs is that their display lumber has been inside
- but do not know for how long. My lumber yard lumber is all stored outside under
roof. I always sort through and pick out each board. My lumber yard expects and
encourages that in fact.
I will appreciate any suggestions and/or alternatives for a wood for these drawers.
Hoyt W.
"Mark L." wrote:
> I have had steel tools in oak toolboxes (Gerstner) for 25 years, and
> never had any rust at all. Haven't used silica gel or anything like
> that. These are expensive angle plates, mics, toolmakers vises, etc.
> Maybe the OP of the rusted tools has a high acid content in his body
> chemistry??? I used to work with another diemaker who had a high acid
> content and had to oil down his tools at the end of every day.
>
> I actually prefer wood toolboxes over metal, I think the wood absorbs
> moisture that would normally attack the steel tools. Just my opinion.
>
> Why use expensive oak for the hidden drawer parts? What about poplar
> for the sides and backs, save the oak for the fronts that can be seen.
>
> Mark L.
>
> Hoyt Weathers wrote:
>
> > I had been planning to use 3/4 oak for the sides, backs, and false fronts for my new
> > WB drawers. However. "George"'s recent post about "How not to store a plane" stated
> > MOL, not to use oak, to store a plane, since it was an acid wood.
> >
> > The tools, etc. to be put into the drawers would not be in DIRECT contact with the
> > oak, but only exposed to the out-gassing from the oak, if any.
> >
> > Now I am back to square one. I have available at my local lumber yard poplar and SYP
> > at cheaper prices than the 2 Borgs. I am considering using kiln dried SYP and be done
> > with it. The only advantage to the Borgs is that their display lumber has been inside
> > - but do not know for how long. My lumber yard lumber is all stored outside under
> > roof. I always sort through and pick out each board. My lumber yard expects and
> > encourages that in fact.
> >
> > I will appreciate any suggestions and/or alternatives for a wood for these drawers.
> >
> > Hoyt W.
> >
Poplar it will be for the sides and backs and false fronts. The actual fronts will be
Tennessee Black Walnut. TKX
Hoyt W.
Gas isn't really that much of a problem, only the tannic and other acids in
close confinement. Camphor in many an oak toolchest has overcome this and
other problems.
Mine are on bass, which is about the cheapest thing I can get, and seem
pretty happy.
"Hoyt Weathers" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I had been planning to use 3/4 oak for the sides, backs, and false fronts
for my new
> WB drawers. However. "George"'s recent post about "How not to store a
plane" stated
> MOL, not to use oak, to store a plane, since it was an acid wood.
>
> The tools, etc. to be put into the drawers would not be in DIRECT contact
with the
> oak, but only exposed to the out-gassing from the oak, if any.
I have had steel tools in oak toolboxes (Gerstner) for 25 years, and
never had any rust at all. Haven't used silica gel or anything like
that. These are expensive angle plates, mics, toolmakers vises, etc.
Maybe the OP of the rusted tools has a high acid content in his body
chemistry??? I used to work with another diemaker who had a high acid
content and had to oil down his tools at the end of every day.
I actually prefer wood toolboxes over metal, I think the wood absorbs
moisture that would normally attack the steel tools. Just my opinion.
Why use expensive oak for the hidden drawer parts? What about poplar
for the sides and backs, save the oak for the fronts that can be seen.
Mark L.
Hoyt Weathers wrote:
> I had been planning to use 3/4 oak for the sides, backs, and false fronts for my new
> WB drawers. However. "George"'s recent post about "How not to store a plane" stated
> MOL, not to use oak, to store a plane, since it was an acid wood.
>
> The tools, etc. to be put into the drawers would not be in DIRECT contact with the
> oak, but only exposed to the out-gassing from the oak, if any.
>
> Now I am back to square one. I have available at my local lumber yard poplar and SYP
> at cheaper prices than the 2 Borgs. I am considering using kiln dried SYP and be done
> with it. The only advantage to the Borgs is that their display lumber has been inside
> - but do not know for how long. My lumber yard lumber is all stored outside under
> roof. I always sort through and pick out each board. My lumber yard expects and
> encourages that in fact.
>
> I will appreciate any suggestions and/or alternatives for a wood for these drawers.
>
> Hoyt W.
>