Kitchen floor now in (w/pics)

On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 01:19:16 GMT, "David F. Eisan"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Evening All,
>
>Here is how the kitchen stands right now. I have all the hardwood flooring
>down and I am waiting for the plumber and electrician to do their work so I
>can hang some cabinets. I and my wonderful helper spent the vast majority of
>the weekend installing the flooring. The flooring is prefinished (golden
>oak'ish in colour) 3.25" wide, 3/4" thick red oak.

snip

>Sorry for the low quality of the photo's, but I could not have hoped for the
>floor to have turned out any better, I am very pleased, it turned out
>perfectly.
>
>Thanks,
>
>David.
>
>Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.
>
>Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.
>

You are a brave man. I would not let a plumber OR electrician near a
brand new floor; much less the two of them .<G> t does look good
though.

Alan Bierbaum

web site: http://www.calanb.com

NICE!
I suggest you get a few coats of varnish on it soon, especially by the sink
and in front of the fridge. That will make it much easier to maintain.
Wilson
"David F. Eisan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Evening All,
>
> Here is how the kitchen stands right now. I have all the hardwood flooring
> down and I am waiting for the plumber and electrician to do their work so
I
> can hang some cabinets. I and my wonderful helper spent the vast majority
of
> the weekend installing the flooring. The flooring is prefinished (golden
> oak'ish in colour) 3.25" wide, 3/4" thick red oak. The flooring in the
> hallway outside the kitchen runs in one direction and in the dining room
the
> other way (at right angle to). So, since I couldn't decide which way to be
> parallel to I decided to run the flooring at 45 degrees across the room.
> This added much more work, but I love how it came out.
>
> To start, I laid out some chalk lines starting just inside the two
doorways
> and wanted to floor away from that direction. I jointed two edges of a 2x4
> and screwed it to my starting chalk line. Once I had reached the corner, I
> removed the 2x4 and secured the tongue of the first strip with pre-drilled
> and countersunk drywall trim screws. I then glued a 1/2"x1/4" hard maple
> (had on hand) strip into the groove to be a tongue so I could start
flooring
> in the other direction. The first doorway was easy, just slap a board in
the
> tennoning jig on the Unisaw with a 1/4" dado cutter (my lovely assistant
did
> most of this) and lay it down. Once at the other doorway, the board had to
> be a *perfect* fit, no room for error, 5 cuts nibbling up to my final
length
> and angle for each board were common. I must say I have fallen in love
with
> my Hitachi C10FSH 10" SCMS w/laser onto which I was using a CMT 80
tooth -5º
> radial arm saw blade. Each cut had to be a perfect finish cut, no room for
> tearout. Cutting through the finished oak flooring at 45º with *zero*
> splintering was a dream come true. I had the laser set to indicate waste,
so
> when nibbling off 0.25º of a degree the laser would show what was being
> removed, made the job sooo much easier.
>
> Starting out in the corner,
>
> http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/startinghardwood.jpg
>
> Securing the groove and adding a tongue to start flooring in the opposite
> direction,
>
> http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/turningaround.jpg
>
> At the end of the first day,
>
> http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/firstday.jpg
>
> My lovely assistant adding a groove to the end of a 44.5º cut for one
> doorway piece,
>
> http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/grooving.jpg
>
> The finished floor,
>
> http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/done1.jpg
> http://www.federatedtool.com/david/img/done2.jpg
>
> Sorry for the low quality of the photo's, but I could not have hoped for
the
> floor to have turned out any better, I am very pleased, it turned out
> perfectly.
>
> Thanks,
>
> David.
>
> Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.
>
> Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.
>
>

Hello there,

> NICE!
> I suggest you get a few coats of varnish on it soon, especially by the
sink
> and in front of the fridge. That will make it much easier to maintain.

It is prefinished, so I won't be adding any additional finish on top of the
factory finish.

Thanks,

David.

"David F. Eisan" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> It is prefinished, so I won't be adding any additional finish on top
> of the factory finish.
>

Nice work there, David, and lovely assistant. I hadn't considered the
diagonal layout before, but it works well for your application, and may
work quite well for the project my lovely partner has been contemplating
for the last 4 or 5 years.

Regarding the prefinished flooring product you used:

* This was a two day job. How large is the room? Would a 'squared
up' install still have been two days?

* Are you happy with the product you chose? Brand?

* Having just completed this room, would you use this same product
again?

* Would you recommend this product to someone who is an intermediate
level woodworker, with all the tools shown in your pictorial, but who has
not previously installed a nail-down wood floor?

* Did you consider a floating installation?

* Would you care to offer a cost per square foot estimate for
materials?

Any one else besides David with an experienced opinion to share?

Thanks in advance!

Patriarch,
who thinks it's a shame that the lovely coordinated wall color is going
away...;-)