On Dec 22, 1:37=A0pm, David Starr <[email protected]> wrote:
> lance wrote:
>
> > Thanks for the info. I removed the screw arm that raises the saw up
> > and down and found that it does have the hints of grease in the gears.
> > Should I replace grease? I also removed the shaft that you loosen to
> > cut miters and found the same, grease. Should I give it more? I took
> > it off the base and putting it on a bench. I will be putting on new
> > table. I just want to run dado, nothing else. I also looked on the
> > recall, this was not one on the list. Thanks.
>
> Grease is lubricating oil with enough soap added to make it solid and
> prevent it from dripping off onto the floor. =A0Over time (10-20-40 years)=
> it gets stiffer and harder and picks up dirt and stops being a good
> lube. =A0If you can get the parts out and into a bucket, use "mineral
> spirits" (paint thinner or charcoal lighter) to clean the old grease
> off, then regrease. =A0The wheel bearing grease they sell at the auto
> parts store works well.
> =A0 =A0If you can't get at the part to clean it well, you can cheat and ju=
st
> lay on some new grease over the old grease and it will be fine.
> =A0 =A0How much grease to use is kinda subjective. =A0More is often better=
,
> and for hand powered gears that don't turn all that fast, you don't have
> to worry about excess getting flung off by centrifugal force and making
> a mess.
> =A0 =A0 I still use an old steel dado set, and it works, but I'm lusting f=
or
> a carbide set. =A0Carbide will stay sharper longer and cut cleaner.
>
> --
> David J. Starr
>
> Blog: =A0www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Thanks Dave,
Well, I got the bottom gears cleaned greased and I loaded the
chamber with new grease, I had to emery the shaft also. I took the
miter control arm out and I see that that is also greased and there is
no way I can clean it, or get grease to it, any suggestions? I don't
want to dismantle it.
Dave
Manuals can be purchased from Sears - or some can be downloaded from
http://www.owwm.com/.
There was a recall of some of these models that provided a retrofit kit
including a new blade guard and table for some models.
The site http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/ appears to still be active...
--
JeffB
remove no.spam. to email
lance wrote:
> I picked up an old radial arm saw, it needs TLC anyone know how to
> grease, oil it?
lance wrote:
> I picked up an old radial arm saw, it needs TLC anyone know how to
> grease, oil it?
Most/all of the bearings are sealed and lubricated for life. You want
to clean it, replace the table and fence if they are badly cut up, align
it, and treat it to a new sharp carbide blade. I got a manual for mine
off the Old Wood Working Machines site which explained alignment well.
Most/all Craftsman were dual voltage, 120/220. If you have 220 volts in
the shop, the saw will have a bit more power wired for 220. On the other
hand, I don't have 220 in my shop and my Craftsman can rip everything I
push thru it no sweat.
--
David J. Starr
Blog: www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
lance wrote:
>
> Thanks for the info. I removed the screw arm that raises the saw up
> and down and found that it does have the hints of grease in the gears.
> Should I replace grease? I also removed the shaft that you loosen to
> cut miters and found the same, grease. Should I give it more? I took
> it off the base and putting it on a bench. I will be putting on new
> table. I just want to run dado, nothing else. I also looked on the
> recall, this was not one on the list. Thanks.
Grease is lubricating oil with enough soap added to make it solid and
prevent it from dripping off onto the floor. Over time (10-20-40 years)
it gets stiffer and harder and picks up dirt and stops being a good
lube. If you can get the parts out and into a bucket, use "mineral
spirits" (paint thinner or charcoal lighter) to clean the old grease
off, then regrease. The wheel bearing grease they sell at the auto
parts store works well.
If you can't get at the part to clean it well, you can cheat and just
lay on some new grease over the old grease and it will be fine.
How much grease to use is kinda subjective. More is often better,
and for hand powered gears that don't turn all that fast, you don't have
to worry about excess getting flung off by centrifugal force and making
a mess.
I still use an old steel dado set, and it works, but I'm lusting for
a carbide set. Carbide will stay sharper longer and cut cleaner.
--
David J. Starr
Blog: www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
lance wrote:
>
> Thanks Dave,
> Well, I got the bottom gears cleaned greased and I loaded the
> chamber with new grease, I had to emery the shaft also. I took the
> miter control arm out and I see that that is also greased and there is
> no way I can clean it, or get grease to it, any suggestions? I don't
> want to dismantle it.
On my RAS, the big chrome knob on the end of the arm sets a friction
brake to hold the arm angle for "odd" angles. The arm has autostops at
45 and 90, but for other angles with no autostop, you position the arm
and then tighten the friction lock to hold the arm steady.
I'd be cautious about just spraying WD-40 down there lest it get on
the friction lock and cause it to slip. I've never pulled my arm off
the column to see what's really in there so I'm kinda guessing.
If the action of the part seems smooth and it doesn't make ugly
noises when you move it, I'd be tempted to let well enough alone. I'd
certainly try and get an instruction manual before taking anything apart.
In practice, I seldom swing the arm for miter cuts. I don't miter
very often, and when mitering picure frame moldings I use a jig on the
table that holds the moldings at 45.
--
David J. Starr
Blog: www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
lance wrote:
> Hi Dave,
> Hope your X-Mas went well and your New Year too!!!
>
> When I turn the arm it make one hell of a noise. It does need to
> be lubed but I don't know how to get any at the location.
>
> Dave
X-mas was fine. Children were at a slight loss as to what to give the
father who seems to have everything. They must have heard that wood
workers always need clamps. So, I am now ahead by two nice big wood
handscrews and a 24 inch bar clamp. All made by Jorgensen.
Making noise is a bad sign. You probably want to lube that. As to
getting it apart, your first and best bet is to check the manual. The
Old Woodworking Machines (OWWN.com) website has a lot of manuals.
Craftsman made minor variations to the saw from year to year and
changed the part number each time. For instance they changed the color
now and again. So even if they don't have your exact model number, the
manual for a model number that is close to yours will be helpful.
On my RAS, there is a round cover plate on the top of the column end
of the arm. It's graduated in degrees and secured by three screws.
After that is removed the inside of the column is visible, and three
bolts go radially out thru the column to secure the arm. I haven't done
this, but I assume undoing those three bolts would allow the arm to lift
right off.
These are sturdy machines, taking them apart isn't like taking a
watch apart. They will go back together again as long as you take the
regular precautions against loosing parts.
--
David J. Starr
Blog: www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
On Dec 20, 9:38=A0pm, David Starr <[email protected]> wrote:
> lance wrote:
> > I picked up an old radial arm saw, it needs TLC anyone know how to
> > grease, oil it?
>
> Most/all of the bearings are sealed and lubricated for life. =A0You want
> to clean it, replace the table and fence if they are badly cut up, align
> it, and treat it to a new sharp carbide blade. =A0I got a manual for mine
> off the Old Wood Working Machines site which explained alignment well.
> Most/all Craftsman were dual voltage, 120/220. =A0If you have 220 volts in=
> the shop, the saw will have a bit more power wired for 220. On the other
> hand, I don't have 220 in my shop and my Craftsman can rip everything I
> push thru it no sweat.
>
> --
> David J. Starr
>
> Blog: =A0www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Thanks for the info. I removed the screw arm that raises the saw up
and down and found that it does have the hints of grease in the gears.
Should I replace grease? I also removed the shaft that you loosen to
cut miters and found the same, grease. Should I give it more? I took
it off the base and putting it on a bench. I will be putting on new
table. I just want to run dado, nothing else. I also looked on the
recall, this was not one on the list. Thanks.
On Dec 23, 1:20=A0pm, David Starr <[email protected]> wrote:
> lance wrote:
>
> > Thanks Dave,
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 Well, I got the bottom gears cleaned greased and I loaded th=
e
> > chamber with new grease, I had to emery the shaft also. I took the
> > miter control arm out and I see that that is also greased and there is
> > no way I can clean it, or get grease to it, any suggestions? I don't
> > want to dismantle it.
>
> On my RAS, the big chrome knob on the end of the arm sets a friction
> brake to hold the arm angle for "odd" angles. =A0The arm has autostops at
> 45 and 90, but for other angles with no autostop, you position the arm
> and then tighten the friction lock to hold the arm steady.
> =A0 =A0I'd be cautious about just spraying WD-40 down there lest it get on=
> the friction lock and cause it to slip. =A0I've never pulled my arm off
> the column to see what's really in there so I'm kinda guessing.
> =A0 =A0If the action of the part seems smooth and it doesn't make ugly
> noises when you move it, I'd be tempted to let well enough alone. I'd
> certainly try and get an instruction manual before taking anything apart.
> =A0 =A0In practice, I seldom swing the arm for miter cuts. =A0I don't mite=
r
> very often, and when mitering picure frame moldings I use a jig on the
> table that holds the moldings at 45.
>
> --
> David J. Starr
>
> Blog: =A0www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Hi Dave,
Hope your X-Mas went well and your New Year too!!!
When I turn the arm it make one hell of a noise. It does need to
be lubed but I don't know how to get any at the location.
Dave
On Dec 26, 11:23=A0am, David Starr <[email protected]> wrote:
> lance wrote:
> > Hi Dave,
> > =A0 =A0 Hope your X-Mas went well and your New Year too!!!
>
> > =A0 =A0 When I turn the arm it make one hell of a noise. It does need to=
> > be lubed but I don't know how to get any at the location.
>
> > Dave
>
> X-mas was fine. =A0Children were at a slight loss as to what to give the
> father who seems to have everything. =A0They must have heard that wood
> workers always need clamps. =A0So, I am now ahead by two nice big wood
> handscrews and a 24 inch bar clamp. =A0 All made by Jorgensen.
> =A0 =A0Making noise is a bad sign. =A0You probably want to lube that. =A0A=
s to
> getting it apart, your first and best bet is to check the manual. =A0The
> Old Woodworking Machines (OWWN.com) website has a lot of manuals.
> Craftsman made minor variations to the saw from year to year and
> changed the part number each time. =A0For instance they changed the color
> now and again. =A0So even if they don't have your exact model number, the
> manual for a model number that is close to yours will be helpful.
> =A0 =A0On my RAS, there is a round cover plate on the top of the column en=
d
> of the arm. =A0It's graduated in degrees and secured by three screws.
> After that is removed the inside of the column is visible, and three
> bolts go radially out thru the column to secure the arm. =A0I haven't done=
> this, but I assume undoing those three bolts would allow the arm to lift
> right off.
> =A0 =A0These are sturdy machines, taking them apart isn't like taking a
> watch apart. =A0They will go back together again as long as you take the
> regular precautions against loosing parts.
>
> --
> David J. Starr
>
> Blog: =A0www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Hi Dave,
EXCELLENT ON THE CLAMPS !!! I have also have Jorgensen [Cabinet
Master] 6 24s and 6 48s but watch out for glue. Clean it off right
away. Anyways, haven't had time on my new addition [saw] I am making
some storm window frames for a custom and some radiator enclosures for
another. I will look on that site for a manual and go by that. I need
to do this right the first time and get it going. Sorry for the delay
in answering I am busy but will answer as soon as possible Dave. I
want to thank you for your help in this I appreciate it.
Dave
lance wrote:
> I picked up an old radial arm saw, it needs TLC anyone know how to
> grease, oil it?
You might want to try to scare up a copy of "Fine tuning your radial
arm saw" by Jon Eakes. Right now it's out of print but it's supposed
to be included on a DVD entitled "Stationary Saws With Jon Eakes" to
be released early next year.
Doesn't need any grease. Bearings are sealed and shouldn't need
oiling--if they don't move freely when they are slacked off a bit then
they're bad and need to be replaced. If the guide rails are not
smooth then you can try to clean them up with emery cloth, if that
doesn't work then they need to be replaced. If the column doesn't
move smoothly and isn't rusted then run it up all the way, wipe it
down with mineral spirits and then apply some DuPont Teflon lube (you
can get it at Home Depot in spray cans). If the column is rusted you
can try cleaning it up with emery--if that works you're good to go but
if it's pitted enough to affect movement then the saw is probably
beyond economical repair.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)