Hi. I am getting the fever to try and build a couple of chairs. I've never
done this before, but I have done other small woodworking projects, am
pretty handy, and have most of the tools I need (I think). I am looking to
build an Arts & Crafts type chair, and came upon this website. Have any of
you used this as a resource, or have any comments? Are there any other
sites that might be better?
Thanks for any comments,
dwhite
Which website?
Brian.
"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi. I am getting the fever to try and build a couple of chairs. I've
never
> done this before, but I have done other small woodworking projects, am
> pretty handy, and have most of the tools I need (I think). I am looking
to
> build an Arts & Crafts type chair, and came upon this website. Have any
of
> you used this as a resource, or have any comments? Are there any other
> sites that might be better?
>
> Thanks for any comments,
>
> dwhite
>
>
"Dan White" wrote in message
> Hi. I am getting the fever to try and build a couple of chairs. I've
never
> done this before, but I have done other small woodworking projects, am
> pretty handy, and have most of the tools I need (I think). I am looking
to
> build an Arts & Crafts type chair, and came upon this website. Have any
of
> you used this as a resource, or have any comments? Are there any other
> sites that might be better?
>
> Thanks for any comments,
The following is in no way meant as derogatory ... just something else to
think about:
I'am a bit of a contrarian when it comes to that type of magazine chair plan
... while they do encourage folks to more advanced projects, they seem to be
published more to sell magazines than to be a well designed chairs.
It's a very basic chair design ... notice that the legs are perpendicular to
the ground in all planes, which means your joinery will be straight forward
with no angled mortise and tenons. Chairs of a more advanced, and pleasing,
design generally have both the front and back legs splayed out a few
degrees, often in two planes, which makes for skill and patience that few
other projects call up ... but it also makes for a better looking design,
and a more stable, comfortable chair.
What I would be afraid of in your case is that when your eye gets used to
paying attention to chair design, you may find that style pretty clunky
looking ... IOW, you may want to rethink making more than one of those for
practice, for odds are it will look very amateurish to you after you have
gained some experience.
Granted, you must start somewhere, so in lieu of that chair, I would
consider making a nice A&C style Hall Bench first, perhaps based closely on
that design. Besides practice, it will give you a basic understanding of
chair/seating structure and construction, and a hall bench will look just
fine without a curved back and splayed legs.
Once you get that done you will have hopefully learned a bit more about
chairs, have a nice piece of furniture, and gathered the tools and jigs
necessary to make some better designed chairs.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/15/04
"Brian" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Which website?
>
> Brian.
Oops. I copied the link but forgot to paste it. Maybe that's why I got
little response 'cept yours! Here it is:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_improvement/furniture/2001/11/reserved_seating/
I have to note that after reading through all the instructions, I will have
a problem with cutting out the curved back supports. I do not have a band
saw. Maybe I can talk the local high school shop teacher into letting a
student knock it off? The only other thing is that I have an old (yet
rarely used) Black and Decker table saw where the blade moves on an overhead
arm instead of the ones now where the blade is set in the table. Sorry for
not knowing the right terminology. I don't imagine it would be too hard to
adjust the instructions to accomodate this.
thanks for any comments,
dwhite
>
>
>
> "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Hi. I am getting the fever to try and build a couple of chairs. I've
> never
> > done this before, but I have done other small woodworking projects, am
> > pretty handy, and have most of the tools I need (I think). I am looking
> to
> > build an Arts & Crafts type chair, and came upon this website. Have any
> of
> > you used this as a resource, or have any comments? Are there any other
> > sites that might be better?
> >
> > Thanks for any comments,
> >
> > dwhite
> >
> >
>
>
"J. Clarke" wrote in message
> I see. So Stickley, Morris, and Wright were all tasteless amateurs in
your
> book.
Nope ... those sentiments, as misguided as they are, are all yours.
> I'm curious--if someone gave you the Kauffman house what would you
> do with the furniture?
It is doubtful that any of the above would want to be associated with those
particular chair plans. If you take a good look at a real Stickley chair,
and know just a little something about chair construction, the differences
will be apparent.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/15/04
Dan,
I'm in the process of making a set of the chairs based loosely on the
Popular Mechanics article you saw. I used the plans for basic
dimensions and construction protocol- type of joints, order of
assembly, etc. I modified the back slat design, choosing to use three
horizontal back slats, each about 3" tall x 3/4" thick and loose tenon
joints. I don't have a bandsaw either, just a table saw, although I do
have a thickness planer and a joiner. To bend the backslats I resawed
white oak on the table saw into 3/8" x 3 1/4" strips about 2" longer
than the finished dimensions. I then put them through the thickness
planer until they were 1/4" thick each. I then built a jig out of MDF
to use to bend them to the proper curve. I laminated the boards, stuck
them in the jig, clamped it up and let them dry overnight, then I ran
them across the joiner to get one true edge and then cut the other
edge on my table saw. In assembling the chair I used a loose tenon
joint where the backslats join the back legs. I've just about
completed the first chair, except for the padded seat, and I can tell
you it took many, many hours to complete it. Chairs are challenging.
Good luck on your project.
Dale
"Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<f%[email protected]>...
> That's good advice. Thanks, J. Clarke!
>
> dwhite
>
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Dan White wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > "Brian" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > news:[email protected]...
> > >> Which website?
> > >>
> > >> Brian.
> > >
> > > Oops. I copied the link but forgot to paste it. Maybe that's why I got
> > > little response 'cept yours! Here it is:
> > >
> > >
> >
> http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_improvement/furniture/2001/11/reserved_seating/
> > >
> > > I have to note that after reading through all the instructions, I will
> > > have
> > > a problem with cutting out the curved back supports. I do not have a
> band
> > > saw. Maybe I can talk the local high school shop teacher into letting a
> > > student knock it off? The only other thing is that I have an old (yet
> > > rarely used) Black and Decker table saw where the blade moves on an
> > > overhead
> > > arm instead of the ones now where the blade is set in the table. Sorry
> > > for
> > > not knowing the right terminology. I don't imagine it would be too hard
> > > to adjust the instructions to accomodate this.
> >
> > That's called a "Radial Arm Saw", and it should be fine, _but_ go to
> > <http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes/ProductDetail.asp?ProdID=3> and
> spend
> > the 15 bucks for the download then do what he says. A properly set up
> > radial saw is a marvelous tool and far more versatile than it's detractors
> > realize, one that is not properly set up is going to give you very
> > disappointing results.
> >
> > You should be able to rough the outside of the back supports with the
> radial
> > saw. For the inside you can turn the blade approximately 45 degrees to
> the
> > carriage and use the edge to cut a trench--take light cuts and go
> > slowly--make pass, lower the blade a little, make another, once you're
> > close to the mark at one spot raise the blade, move the piece, clamp it
> > down--and you should be able to hog out the inside that way a little at a
> > time. Once you're close to the line, put a sanding drum on the arbor (if
> > it's the 5/8 arbor that is most common on radial saws you can get one at
> > Sears inexpensively) and use it to finish to the mark.
> >
> > Or you could make yourself a bow saw
> > <http://www.geocities.com/plybench/bowsaw.html>.
> >
> > > thanks for any comments,
> > > dwhite
> > >
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > >> news:[email protected]...
> > >> > Hi. I am getting the fever to try and build a couple of chairs.
> I've
> never
> > >> > done this before, but I have done other small woodworking projects,
> am
> > >> > pretty handy, and have most of the tools I need (I think). I am
> > >> > looking
> to
> > >> > build an Arts & Crafts type chair, and came upon this website. Have
> > >> > any
> of
> > >> > you used this as a resource, or have any comments? Are there any
> other
> > >> > sites that might be better?
> > >> >
> > >> > Thanks for any comments,
> > >> >
> > >> > dwhite
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> > --
> > --John
> > Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
> > (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Dan White wrote:
>
> "Brian" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Which website?
>>
>> Brian.
>
> Oops. I copied the link but forgot to paste it. Maybe that's why I got
> little response 'cept yours! Here it is:
>
>
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_improvement/furniture/2001/11/reserved_seating/
>
> I have to note that after reading through all the instructions, I will
> have
> a problem with cutting out the curved back supports. I do not have a band
> saw. Maybe I can talk the local high school shop teacher into letting a
> student knock it off? The only other thing is that I have an old (yet
> rarely used) Black and Decker table saw where the blade moves on an
> overhead
> arm instead of the ones now where the blade is set in the table. Sorry
> for
> not knowing the right terminology. I don't imagine it would be too hard
> to adjust the instructions to accomodate this.
That's called a "Radial Arm Saw", and it should be fine, _but_ go to
<http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes/ProductDetail.asp?ProdID=3> and spend
the 15 bucks for the download then do what he says. A properly set up
radial saw is a marvelous tool and far more versatile than it's detractors
realize, one that is not properly set up is going to give you very
disappointing results.
You should be able to rough the outside of the back supports with the radial
saw. For the inside you can turn the blade approximately 45 degrees to the
carriage and use the edge to cut a trench--take light cuts and go
slowly--make pass, lower the blade a little, make another, once you're
close to the mark at one spot raise the blade, move the piece, clamp it
down--and you should be able to hog out the inside that way a little at a
time. Once you're close to the line, put a sanding drum on the arbor (if
it's the 5/8 arbor that is most common on radial saws you can get one at
Sears inexpensively) and use it to finish to the mark.
Or you could make yourself a bow saw
<http://www.geocities.com/plybench/bowsaw.html>.
> thanks for any comments,
> dwhite
>
>>
>>
>>
>> "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > Hi. I am getting the fever to try and build a couple of chairs. I've
>> never
>> > done this before, but I have done other small woodworking projects, am
>> > pretty handy, and have most of the tools I need (I think). I am
>> > looking
>> to
>> > build an Arts & Crafts type chair, and came upon this website. Have
>> > any
>> of
>> > you used this as a resource, or have any comments? Are there any other
>> > sites that might be better?
>> >
>> > Thanks for any comments,
>> >
>> > dwhite
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Swingman wrote:
>
> "Dan White" wrote in message
>> Hi. I am getting the fever to try and build a couple of chairs. I've
> never
>> done this before, but I have done other small woodworking projects, am
>> pretty handy, and have most of the tools I need (I think). I am looking
> to
>> build an Arts & Crafts type chair, and came upon this website. Have any
> of
>> you used this as a resource, or have any comments? Are there any other
>> sites that might be better?
>>
>> Thanks for any comments,
>
> The following is in no way meant as derogatory ... just something else to
> think about:
>
> I'am a bit of a contrarian when it comes to that type of magazine chair
> plan ... while they do encourage folks to more advanced projects, they
> seem to be published more to sell magazines than to be a well designed
> chairs.
>
> It's a very basic chair design ... notice that the legs are perpendicular
> to the ground in all planes, which means your joinery will be straight
> forward with no angled mortise and tenons. Chairs of a more advanced, and
> pleasing, design generally have both the front and back legs splayed out a
> few degrees, often in two planes, which makes for skill and patience that
> few other projects call up ... but it also makes for a better looking
> design, and a more stable, comfortable chair.
>
> What I would be afraid of in your case is that when your eye gets used to
> paying attention to chair design, you may find that style pretty clunky
> looking ... IOW, you may want to rethink making more than one of those for
> practice, for odds are it will look very amateurish to you after you have
> gained some experience.
>
> Granted, you must start somewhere, so in lieu of that chair, I would
> consider making a nice A&C style Hall Bench first, perhaps based closely
> on that design. Besides practice, it will give you a basic understanding
> of chair/seating structure and construction, and a hall bench will look
> just fine without a curved back and splayed legs.
>
> Once you get that done you will have hopefully learned a bit more about
> chairs, have a nice piece of furniture, and gathered the tools and jigs
> necessary to make some better designed chairs.
I see. So Stickley, Morris, and Wright were all tasteless amateurs in your
book. I'm curious--if someone gave you the Kauffman house what would you
do with the furniture?
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Swingman wrote:
> "J. Clarke" wrote in message
>
>> I see. So Stickley, Morris, and Wright were all tasteless amateurs in
> your
>> book.
>
> Nope ... those sentiments, as misguided as they are, are all yours.
That's odd. Stickley, Morris, and Wright all transgress against the
precepts which you seem to hold essential to the design of a chair which is
not tasteless and amateurish. So are you retracting "Chairs of a more
advanced, and pleasing, design generally have both the front and back legs
splayed out a few degrees, often in two planes, which makes for skill and
patience that few other projects call up ... but it also makes for a better
looking design, and a more stable, comfortable chair"?
>> I'm curious--if someone gave you the Kauffman house what would you
>> do with the furniture?
>
> It is doubtful that any of the above would want to be associated with
> those particular chair plans.
I doubt that any of them would have wanted to be associated with each
others' plans. Genius is often like that. What of it?
> If you take a good look at a real Stickley
> chair, and know just a little something about chair construction, the
> differences will be apparent.
Care to answer the question? What _would_ you do with the furniture if
someone gave you the Kaufman house? While you're about it, since you're so
certain that the chair in question is different in some fundamental way
other than the name of the designer from those designed by Stickley,
Morris, and Wright, would you care to share your enlightenment with the
rest of us who have not been blessed with your education? Further, if the
features which you described earlier and which all of those designers have
found superfluous are in fact not necessary then why did you mention them?
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Swingman wrote:
> "J. Clarke" wrote in message
>
>> That's odd. Stickley, Morris, and Wright all transgress against the
>> precepts which you seem to hold essential to the design of a chair which
> is
>> not tasteless and amateurish.
>
> To compare that particular "chair plan" with Stickely, Morris, et al is
> ludicrous.
In that case it should be very easy to show the significant differences.
>> Care to answer the question? What _would_ you do with the furniture if
>> someone gave you the Kaufman house?
>
> With you close by? ... stick it straight up your ass. Now go fuck
> yourself.
That's even worse than what the folks who bought the Willits house in the
'50s did with the furnishings. And you account yourself a person of taste?
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
That's good advice. Thanks, J. Clarke!
dwhite
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Dan White wrote:
>
> >
> > "Brian" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >> Which website?
> >>
> >> Brian.
> >
> > Oops. I copied the link but forgot to paste it. Maybe that's why I got
> > little response 'cept yours! Here it is:
> >
> >
>
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_improvement/furniture/2001/11/reserved_seating/
> >
> > I have to note that after reading through all the instructions, I will
> > have
> > a problem with cutting out the curved back supports. I do not have a
band
> > saw. Maybe I can talk the local high school shop teacher into letting a
> > student knock it off? The only other thing is that I have an old (yet
> > rarely used) Black and Decker table saw where the blade moves on an
> > overhead
> > arm instead of the ones now where the blade is set in the table. Sorry
> > for
> > not knowing the right terminology. I don't imagine it would be too hard
> > to adjust the instructions to accomodate this.
>
> That's called a "Radial Arm Saw", and it should be fine, _but_ go to
> <http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes/ProductDetail.asp?ProdID=3> and
spend
> the 15 bucks for the download then do what he says. A properly set up
> radial saw is a marvelous tool and far more versatile than it's detractors
> realize, one that is not properly set up is going to give you very
> disappointing results.
>
> You should be able to rough the outside of the back supports with the
radial
> saw. For the inside you can turn the blade approximately 45 degrees to
the
> carriage and use the edge to cut a trench--take light cuts and go
> slowly--make pass, lower the blade a little, make another, once you're
> close to the mark at one spot raise the blade, move the piece, clamp it
> down--and you should be able to hog out the inside that way a little at a
> time. Once you're close to the line, put a sanding drum on the arbor (if
> it's the 5/8 arbor that is most common on radial saws you can get one at
> Sears inexpensively) and use it to finish to the mark.
>
> Or you could make yourself a bow saw
> <http://www.geocities.com/plybench/bowsaw.html>.
>
> > thanks for any comments,
> > dwhite
> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> news:[email protected]...
> >> > Hi. I am getting the fever to try and build a couple of chairs.
I've
> >> never
> >> > done this before, but I have done other small woodworking projects,
am
> >> > pretty handy, and have most of the tools I need (I think). I am
> >> > looking
> >> to
> >> > build an Arts & Crafts type chair, and came upon this website. Have
> >> > any
> >> of
> >> > you used this as a resource, or have any comments? Are there any
other
> >> > sites that might be better?
> >> >
> >> > Thanks for any comments,
> >> >
> >> > dwhite
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
>
> --
> --John
> Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
> (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Thanks Dale. I guess there's more than one way to skin a cat. You know the
saying, "measure twice, cut once?" Well, I'm "thinking twice, acting once"
before I really decide to jump into this. After all, nobody wants just one
chair. :)
dwhite
"Dale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Dan,
>
> I'm in the process of making a set of the chairs based loosely on the
> Popular Mechanics article you saw. I used the plans for basic
> dimensions and construction protocol- type of joints, order of
> assembly, etc. I modified the back slat design, choosing to use three
> horizontal back slats, each about 3" tall x 3/4" thick and loose tenon
> joints. I don't have a bandsaw either, just a table saw, although I do
> have a thickness planer and a joiner. To bend the backslats I resawed
> white oak on the table saw into 3/8" x 3 1/4" strips about 2" longer
> than the finished dimensions. I then put them through the thickness
> planer until they were 1/4" thick each. I then built a jig out of MDF
> to use to bend them to the proper curve. I laminated the boards, stuck
> them in the jig, clamped it up and let them dry overnight, then I ran
> them across the joiner to get one true edge and then cut the other
> edge on my table saw. In assembling the chair I used a loose tenon
> joint where the backslats join the back legs. I've just about
> completed the first chair, except for the padded seat, and I can tell
> you it took many, many hours to complete it. Chairs are challenging.
> Good luck on your project.
>
> Dale
>
>
>
>
> "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<f%[email protected]>...
> > That's good advice. Thanks, J. Clarke!
> >
> > dwhite
> >
> > "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > Dan White wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > "Brian" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > > news:[email protected]...
> > > >> Which website?
> > > >>
> > > >> Brian.
> > > >
> > > > Oops. I copied the link but forgot to paste it. Maybe that's why I
got
> > > > little response 'cept yours! Here it is:
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_improvement/furniture/2001/11/reserved_seating/
> > > >
> > > > I have to note that after reading through all the instructions, I
will
> > > > have
> > > > a problem with cutting out the curved back supports. I do not have
a
> > band
> > > > saw. Maybe I can talk the local high school shop teacher into
letting a
> > > > student knock it off? The only other thing is that I have an old
(yet
> > > > rarely used) Black and Decker table saw where the blade moves on an
> > > > overhead
> > > > arm instead of the ones now where the blade is set in the table.
Sorry
> > > > for
> > > > not knowing the right terminology. I don't imagine it would be too
hard
> > > > to adjust the instructions to accomodate this.
> > >
> > > That's called a "Radial Arm Saw", and it should be fine, _but_ go to
> > > <http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes/ProductDetail.asp?ProdID=3> and
> > spend
> > > the 15 bucks for the download then do what he says. A properly set up
> > > radial saw is a marvelous tool and far more versatile than it's
detractors
> > > realize, one that is not properly set up is going to give you very
> > > disappointing results.
> > >
> > > You should be able to rough the outside of the back supports with the
> > radial
> > > saw. For the inside you can turn the blade approximately 45 degrees
to
> > the
> > > carriage and use the edge to cut a trench--take light cuts and go
> > > slowly--make pass, lower the blade a little, make another, once you're
> > > close to the mark at one spot raise the blade, move the piece, clamp
it
> > > down--and you should be able to hog out the inside that way a little
at a
> > > time. Once you're close to the line, put a sanding drum on the arbor
(if
> > > it's the 5/8 arbor that is most common on radial saws you can get one
at
> > > Sears inexpensively) and use it to finish to the mark.
> > >
> > > Or you could make yourself a bow saw
> > > <http://www.geocities.com/plybench/bowsaw.html>.
> > >
> > > > thanks for any comments,
> > > > dwhite
> > > >
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> "Dan White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > >> news:[email protected]...
> > > >> > Hi. I am getting the fever to try and build a couple of chairs.
> > I've
> > never
> > > >> > done this before, but I have done other small woodworking
projects,
> > am
> > > >> > pretty handy, and have most of the tools I need (I think). I am
> > > >> > looking
> > to
> > > >> > build an Arts & Crafts type chair, and came upon this website.
Have
> > > >> > any
> > of
> > > >> > you used this as a resource, or have any comments? Are there any
> > other
> > > >> > sites that might be better?
> > > >> >
> > > >> > Thanks for any comments,
> > > >> >
> > > >> > dwhite
> > > >> >
> > > >> >
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > >
> > > --
> > > --John
> > > Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
> > > (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
"J. Clarke" wrote in message
> That's odd. Stickley, Morris, and Wright all transgress against the
> precepts which you seem to hold essential to the design of a chair which
is
> not tasteless and amateurish.
To compare that particular "chair plan" with Stickely, Morris, et al is
ludicrous.
> Care to answer the question? What _would_ you do with the furniture if
> someone gave you the Kaufman house?
With you close by? ... stick it straight up your ass. Now go fuck yourself.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/15/04