I throw myself on the mercy of the Wreck. and beg for your wisdom and
help.
I've been taking the introductory woodwoking class on Saturdays at my
local community college. We're each building a small cabinet with
dadoed shelves, face frame and a frame and panel door.
I dry fit my face frame to my case, making sure that I had 1/32"
overhang all the way around to be trimmed off with the router (next
week's lesson). All good. I glued and clamped it. I was worried
that I had maybe been a bit too stingy with the glue because I didn't
want a lot of squeeze out (I got none), but it seemed to hold fine
when I removed the clamps. All good.
It wasn't until today (48 hrs. later) that I noticed my screw up. My
face frame was glued (Titebond II) on upside down (proper face is out
but it's 180º reversed with the bottom at the top of the case). Doh!
How can I break this glue bond with out destrying my wood? Heat?
Solvent?
HELP! TIA,
Ian
"Ian Dodd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I throw myself on the mercy of the Wreck. and beg for your wisdom and
> help.
<snip>
> How can I break this glue bond with out destrying my wood? Heat?
> Solvent?
>
> HELP! TIA,
>
> Ian
IMHO a very thin kerf saw and fit loose tenons.
BTW you need enough glue that some squeezes out along the joint lines when
clamped.
Bernard R
>I've been taking the introductory woodwoking class on Saturdays at my
>local community college. We're each building a small cabinet with
>dadoed shelves, face frame and a frame and panel door.
>
>I dry fit my face frame to my case, making sure that I had 1/32"
>overhang all the way around to be trimmed off with the router (next
>week's lesson). All good. I glued and clamped it. I was worried
>that I had maybe been a bit too stingy with the glue because I didn't
>want a lot of squeeze out (I got none), but it seemed to hold fine
>when I removed the clamps. All good.
>
>It wasn't until today (48 hrs. later) that I noticed my screw up. My
>face frame was glued (Titebond II) on upside down (proper face is out
>but it's 180º reversed with the bottom at the top of the case). Doh!
>
>How can I break this glue bond with out destrying my wood? Heat?
>Solvent?
>
>HELP! TIA,
>
>Ian
>
>
Well, that's the place to learn, in a classroom. Have you tried some judicious
whacks with a mallet and a block of scrap? Maybe (just maybe) the bond will
break. That, or the case. How does it look upside down? You never said what
the case material is, and that would have something to do with any solvents
used. Tom
Someday, it'll all be over....
Mon, Apr 19, 2004, 11:01am (EDT-3) [email protected] (Ian=A0Dodd)
<snip> My face frame was glued (Titebond II) on upside down (proper face
is out but it's 180=BA reversed with the bottom at the top of the case).
Doh!
How can I break this glue bond with out destrying my wood? Heat?
Solvent? <snip>
Hard to believe you guys. On the back of the bottle is a 1-800
number. Or, log onto the Titebond site, and it tells in the FAQs.
JOAT
The Good are Innocent so they invented Justice. The Evil are Guilty so
they invented Mercy.
- Unknown
Thanks guys for all the suggestions. After doing some more research,
cogitating a bit on it and taking your suggestions into consideration,
I think what I'm going to do (gulp!) is put my thin kerf rip blade on
the table saw and surgically remove the FF from the case, clean up the
mess, glue it back on with the top at the top, and hope my prof
doesn't notice the missing 3/32". Thanks for the input.
Ian
There comes a time in some screw ups where one has to recognize the fact
that fixing the screw up will cause a bigger mess then not.
As I see it, when those times arrive, you have two choices. One, the least
preferable, is to do the job over again. The second, my preference, is to
switch ones efforts from trying to fix the screw up too making the screw up
look like it's suppose too be there.
Just a thought, Good luck
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Ian Dodd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I throw myself on the mercy of the Wreck. and beg for your wisdom and
> help.
>
> I've been taking the introductory woodwoking class on Saturdays at my
> local community college. We're each building a small cabinet with
> dadoed shelves, face frame and a frame and panel door.
>
> I dry fit my face frame to my case, making sure that I had 1/32"
> overhang all the way around to be trimmed off with the router (next
> week's lesson). All good. I glued and clamped it. I was worried
> that I had maybe been a bit too stingy with the glue because I didn't
> want a lot of squeeze out (I got none), but it seemed to hold fine
> when I removed the clamps. All good.
>
> It wasn't until today (48 hrs. later) that I noticed my screw up. My
> face frame was glued (Titebond II) on upside down (proper face is out
> but it's 180º reversed with the bottom at the top of the case). Doh!
>
> How can I break this glue bond with out destrying my wood? Heat?
> Solvent?
>
> HELP! TIA,
>
> Ian
"Ian Dodd" wrote in message
> How can I break this glue bond with out destrying my wood? Heat?
> Solvent?
The harsh reality is that unless you believe in miracles, you may have to
live with it.
Since the face that you will now want to show is going to have been subject
to the reaction with glue, it is doubtful that there is a solution that
won't cause some harm to the parts, and you won't know until after you've
tried.
That said, and if it is only glued on, it may be possible to rescue the
cabinet by carefully cutting the old face frame away (with a table saw, or
straight edge, to get the straightest possible cut?), then build a new face
frame, but I would think that would be your much needed miracle.
I did a similar thing with the FF on a two part, carefully grain matched,
pantry cabinet a couple of years back and, to this day, it remains a
constant reminder to pay attention.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/13/04
Swingman responds:
>The harsh reality is that unless you believe in miracles, you may have to
>live with it.
>
>Since the face that you will now want to show is going to have been subject
>to the reaction with glue, it is doubtful that there is a solution that
>won't cause some harm to the parts, and you won't know until after you've
>tried.
>
>That said, and if it is only glued on, it may be possible to rescue the
>cabinet by carefully cutting the old face frame away (with a table saw, or
>straight edge, to get the straightest possible cut?), then build a new face
>frame, but I would think that would be your much needed miracle.
Been there, done that at least twice.
Given he used TB II, your solution about it. It is another reason for never
using highly water resistant glues UNLESS they're needed. I used TB 1 and,
once, hide glue, and just steamed the parts until they dripped. Took some
scraping to clean up.
I understand there is a way to break the bond of TB II--did it involve vinegar?
Charlie Self
"Abstainer: a weak person who yields to the temptation of denying himself a
pleasure." Ambrose Bierce
"Ian Dodd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I throw myself on the mercy of the Wreck. and beg for your wisdom and
> help.
>
> I've been taking the introductory woodwoking class on Saturdays at my
> local community college. We're each building a small cabinet with
> dadoed shelves, face frame and a frame and panel door.
>
> I dry fit my face frame to my case, making sure that I had 1/32"
> overhang all the way around to be trimmed off with the router (next
> week's lesson). All good. I glued and clamped it. I was worried
> that I had maybe been a bit too stingy with the glue because I didn't
> want a lot of squeeze out (I got none), but it seemed to hold fine
> when I removed the clamps. All good.
>
> It wasn't until today (48 hrs. later) that I noticed my screw up. My
> face frame was glued (Titebond II) on upside down (proper face is out
> but it's 180º reversed with the bottom at the top of the case). Doh!
>
> How can I break this glue bond with out destrying my wood? Heat?
> Solvent?
I think I'd try to saw it off with a thin kerf Shark Saw or something
similar... If you start at a corner and index off the face frame you can
probably get it off intact if you take your time. Once it's off you can
smooth out the two surfaces again by either gently sanding with a block or
by using a plane.
John
On 19-Apr-2004, [email protected] (Tom) wrote:
> Have you tried some judicious
> whacks with a mallet and a block of scrap? Maybe (just maybe) the bond will
> break.
My first test of a new deadblow mallet was to take apart a commercially
made cabinet door that was lightly glued. Three good blows and the
rail and stile separated. Some of the wood splintered, but I could
clean it up and sand it. None of the damage showed when I cut the
door down and reassembled it at a new size.
Give it a whack if nothing else works.
Mike
(snip)
> How can I break this glue bond with out destrying my wood? Heat?
> Solvent?
>
> HELP! TIA,
>
> Ian
Alcohol, and a lot of time and patience. If you run some alcohol along the
glue joint it will soften the glue but you must keep working the alcohol
into the joint with something thin like a feeler gauge. The glue will turn
to buggers and can be scraped off BUT it takes a lot of time and work. I
suggest you hang that one in your shop as a reminder... :-)
--
"Shut up and keep diggen"
Jerry